Sydneykid

It's the bundling that I have the problem with, the standard springs & shock configuration is "coil over", the road Group Buy Bilstein shocks & Whiteline springs are "coil over", worn out second hand Jap wrecker stuff are "coil over", the track Group Buy Bilstein shocks & Eiback springs are "coil over", the 2 way adjustable MSA shocks & Eibach springs I have in my race R32GTST is "coil over", the 5 way adjustable Sach shocks and H&R springs in the F3 car are "coil over", the Penske 3 way adjustable shocks and Eibach springs in the V8SuperCar are "coil over" etc etc. They are all "coil overs" except they cost between $400 and $20,000. The issue is some guy buying $400 used Jap wreck coil overs expects to get the same result as any other "coil over". So telling someone to buy or not to buy "coil overs" is both ludicrous and dangerous all at the same time. Cheers Gary

I wish Cheers Gary

Take the tyiming cover off, rotate the crank to TDC and look at the camshaft pulleys. Take 10 minutes at best. Cheers Gary

I hate this "coil over" verbalisation, FHS R32/33/34's ALL come with coil overs standard. The coil (spring) goes over the shock, that's the standard configuration. The lack of traction issue is with ridiculously high spring rates plus shocks that have unsophisticated valving with excessive damping in a forlorn attempt to control the excessive spring rates. Add that to a total lack of alignment correction after excessive lowering and you have a perfect recipe for traction problems. It doesn’t matter how good the 245 tyres are if you are only using 100 mm of them because of excessive camber. Cheers Gary

I have NEVER EVER had to change the cold start and run tuning on ANY Power FC on ANY Skyline. Cheers Gary

I keep going back to the hammer witness wear on the oil pump flange, that's either a worn crank flange or a lot more than "a few limiter launches". I have an 8 year old N1 oil pump out of a race car that has way less wear than that. Did you measure the crank flange before you assembled the engine? Check the clearance to the new pump? Cheers Gary

Depends on the terms of the contract, in our team Bathurst 12 hour deal it's the driver, you bend it = you fix it, you write it off = you own it. Cheers Gary

There can be more variation in the weight of the same sized tyres of different construction than the weight of a one forged rim verssus another forged rim. A new tyre with 8 mm of tread weighs more than used tyre with 5 mm of tread, let alone a worn out tyre with 1 mm of tread. Take a look at what is written on the sidewall of a tyre, research how many steel and/or kevlar belts, shoulder and sidewall construction, plycord, bead filler and wires and the chafer. Saving 1 kg by spending $800 more on a wheel and then using a tyre that weighs 2 kgs more is not very cost effective and may do nothing for performance at the same time. Cheers Gary

1. I have no idea what a "pan rod bush" is. The front facing arms that control the forward and backward location of the wheels are usually called "caster rods", sometimes "front traction rods", occasionally "Z bars". The caster kit replaces the front bushes in the caster rods and makes them adjustable at the same time. Cars with live axles (non IRS Commondoors) have panhard rods in the rear, live axle 4wd's (Land Cruisers) have them in the front as well, that's the only "pan" I know of. 2. It varies from model to model and it depends on how much it is settled since it was new. You would have no problem with 24mm down from new standard height, but your car may well already be 10 mm down from new standard height, that is not unusual. The best suggestion I can make is to get the tape measure out and measure your car. 3. A couple of guys have mentioned a very slight increase in NVH, but ~178 guys haven't. My guess, the best I can do without examining their cars, is that the couple of cars may have something slightly out of balance in their drive train, perhaps tailshaft or a driveshaft. Maybe a mildly worn universal joint. The soft rubber in the subframe covered that up and it was only revealed when they tightened the subframe up a little with the alignment kit. Cheers Gary

A Power FC, turn up the boost and tune it. Everything else is bad value for money in comparison. Cheers Gary

It's a Production Car so the standard undertray is it. The R32GTST is built to the Improved Production regs so it has a flat undertray with a splitter out the front to the profile of the bumper. The regs only allow the undertray back to the front of the wheel arches. If I had full freedom, I would simply copy a V8Supercar undertray which has a raised centre with votex generators. Cheers Gary

Racer Parts Wholesale $US270 Cheers Gary

There is some knock there. Have a look at the consistency of your ignition timing around 10/13 and 10/14, there are some anomalies Have a look at the consistency of your injection around 12/14, there are some anomalies there as well. Does it misfire when it knocks? Cheers Gary

I always brace the turbo flange to the manifold flange plus brace the dump pipe to the gearbox to make sure the weight of the turbo, the wastegate and the dump pipe is not solely carried by the manifold. I always wrap the manifold and the dump pipe in genuine Longacre thermal wrap. Guess what? I have never had a manifold crack, no matter how cheap and nasty. Cheers Gary

I agree with Paul, the drive flanges are BADLY worn. Something is wrong, either the crank has worn drive flanges, which we see a lot of, or the engine (crank and pump) has done way more than 20,000 k's. Let me throw another one in here from other engines running a crank driven oil pump. I have seen oil galleries blocked with machining swarf, as a result the oil pressure skyrocketed and the pump drive flanges cop a hiding from that. The crank bearings failed due to lack of oil from the blockage but the pump is blamed because it has cracked. Rebuild the engine, don't find/remove the swarf and the next ouil pump fails as well. Cheers Gary

My method; Turn ther map trace on the Datalogit on the Injection screen Watch closely what load cells are being used around the time of the A/F ratio issues Check the consistency of the values, I have found the odd rouge single cell that isn't obvious until you look at that one cell specifically You can do the same with the logging, but I find it quicker on the dyno to simply watch what's going on on the screen. Cheers Gary

That must be a HIGH high mount manifold or is the turbo THAT big? Cheers Gary

I assume you are using an equivalent diameter tyre on the front? If not, the ATTESA will not like it. Cheers Gary

I agree with Paul, we must have used over 30 N1 oil pumps over the years and not had 1 single falilue. Why not us? Carefull balancing of the engine and a decent harmonic balancer are the only answers I have as well. Cheers Gary

I have had both an LM1 and a WB02 and had no problems with either of them. On the dyno, the WB02 gives the same readings as the calibrated Motec A/RF meter, except as Dunk said, because the WB02 is closer to the engine it reads changes faster. I have killed a couple of senors due to the low mounting point and high ripple strips, the new exhaust has a high mount. On the Stagea and the R33GTST I use the standard lambda sensor hole. I find it best to tune open loop, so not having the standard lambda sensor is not a problem. Logging the A/F ratios is an OK idea, but watching an A/F ratio gauge is truly a pain in the ass. Every tiny change in the throttle position swings the numbers around dramatically. It's not like oil pressure or the temperature gauges that stay pretty constant and you can tell at a glance if something is wrong. The numbers are constantly jumping around and almost impossible to follow. The only time the numbers are constant enough to read and be meaningful is at a consistent 100% throttle and, I don't know about you, but I'm far too busy watching the road at that sort of acceleration rate to pay much attention to a gauge. Cheers Gary

From memory 121.5 mm is standard RB26 rod length. So the 118.95 may be some (2.55 mm) of the necessary shortening to fit the extra stroke (81 - 73.5 / 2 = 3.65 mm) in the standard block. The remainder 3.65 - 2.55 = 1.1 mm) must come from raising the gudgeon pin height in the piston. 87.3 x 81 = 2910 cc's 118.95 / 81 = 1.47 rod stroke ratio, which I personally think is a fair bit low for reliability and power. Cheers Gary

A few random thoughts; The front undertray helps a lot with the cooling, I wouldn't leave them off for that reason alone. They increase the airflow though the intercooler and radiator by creating a partial vacuum under the engine bay. When we ran the R32GTR in Production Car racing it would overheat without the undertray. "Add downforce" is a bit of a misrepresentation, more like "decrease the lift". Without the front undertray we were getting more lift at the front at anything over 100kph, I could see it on the shock sensors data log. The dogleg at Oran Park was a prime example, the air would get under the front and lift it up, put the undertray back on and that lift stopped. After spending 2 seasons with the F3 and half a day with Frank Dernie (ex Williams, recently Toyota) I can positively say I don't know anywhere near enough about aerodynamics. But what I am confident in is that modifying the front standard undertray to fit an aftermarket front bar, with say aluminium extrensions, would not be a bad thing. Cheers Gary

Simply put it is not worth doing, I have all the bits necessary to build an RB24, have had for years. But I have built 3 RB30's in that time, why? Because they are far better value for money. The only reason I have kept the RB24 stuff for the R32GTST is that Improved Production has no minimum weight limit if you use the original block and head. One day I might use it, not for power or cost, but so I have no weight limit. Cheers Gary

The one I dissassembled had nowhere near a 30 mm spacer, it was what OS Giken call a series 1, with the machined spacer plate. The rods were standard RB26 length. The later design has a cast plate, I haven't seen one of them in the flesh, but the plate looks thicker in the photos I have seen. This is the early kit; Cheers Gary

To retard the exhauits cmashaft 4 (crankshaft) degrees, you rotate the camshaft 2 slots anticlockwise, because the engine turns clockwise. The camshaft is connected to the centre of the pulley, the cambelt is conected to the outside of the pulley. You keep the outside of the pulley (the cambelt) still while you rotate the inside of the pulley (camshaft) anticlockwise. Simple isn't it? Cheers Gary