Sydneykid

My opinion can be found here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...tml&hl=arms Cheers Gary

Try the Group Buy, they are called a Caster Kit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 Cheers Gary

Smaller width tyres on the front is not good for handling balance in a nose heavy 4wd. Your car has over 60% of its weight on the front tyres and around 40% on the rears. That's why they understeer. Plus it does close to 80% of its braking on the front tyres. Smaller front tyres simply increase the understeer and decrease the braking potential. So why in the hell would you want to have less grip on the front than the rear? Cheers Gary

From memory the R32GTST was around 650 (55%) and 550 (45%) Cheers Gary

I have tried 355 mm rotors, no problems with them. I am currently using 340 mm. That's with R32GTST Type M callipers which use the 280 mm rotor standard. Cheers Gary

The 4wd Stageas have a shorter front shock and spring as they have to leave room for the front driveshafts. This requirement also affects the front swaybar location and the front radius rods. The rear is the same for the 2wd and 4wd, only the 260RS is different as it has GTR style forks for the lower shock mounts. You can use R33GTST front shocks and springs in 2wd Stagea, but the rates aren't ideal. Much the same as using R33GTST rear shocks, they fit, but aren't designed for the extra weight and higher CoG of the waggon. You still can't use R33GTST rear springs as the Stagea top mount is much narrower, presumably to increase the rear load space. Cheers Gary

I cleared a bit of space today in the PM inbox after being away for the weekend, first weekend off in 6 months. Cheers Gary

SR20 's have rockers , RB's don't The cam lobes work directly onto the buckets, that's why you can't have variable lift in RB's. Cheers Gary

It also does idle control for power steering, airconditioning and electrical load. Cheers Gary

The problem is it's a gravity return, no pressure to move the oil though the pipe/hose. Plus, at high rpm, there is a lot of oil to move. So the biggest possible fitting and hose is the go. Cheers Gary

I thought I was quite specific when I posted "same as RB26's are standard" ie; the front one Cheers Gary

Which RB20 was that? Cheers Gary

That would be me. Who says the engine is 100% heathly? The idea of a catch can is for it to work no matter what condition the engine is in. If the engine is 100% healthy, then it doesn't need a catch can because there is no blow by of any significance. When any engine is cold they all breath, and you don't want that in your inlet, all through the pipework and the intercooler. Much better to run it straight into the combustion process via the inlet manifold. Hence the need for the hoses that facilitate that direction of flow. All the hoses are in fact correct. For the above reasons, plus running one hose from the cam covers to the catch can is generaly not enough and you get too much airspeed through the one hose. So it carries oil along with it, which is not a good idea. All you want the catch can to do is filter oily air, not catch hot oil pumped out along too small a hose. So to answer the question the thread starter asked................you bought the wrong catch can. Since you already have it, you can still use it. Just join up the hoses with 2 "Y" pieces as follows; 1. As close to the catch can as possible, join the 2 hoses from the cam covers. 2. As close to the catch can as possible, join the hose to the inlet pipe and the hose to the inlet manifold. Don't forget to put the PCV valve somewhere in the hose to the inlet manifold. If you don't you will get boost leaking out of the inlet manifold into the catch can and the rest of the circuit. Very messy. Cheers Gary

Perhaps I need to emphasise the difference in the respective posts; Compared to; Which was a comparison with a GTR, both at 450 rwkw. Cheers Gary

An RB24 doesn't really sound any different to an RB20, still revs the same, just a bit angrier. Cheers Gary

Wooooo, settle.......I wasn't pinking on you, you don't have a refinery in the boot. I actually like your electical concept, but I see a couple of things I would look at; 1. The circuit drawing doesn't show how you have the in tank pump driven electrically, if you have alrewqady done it, I would also drop the voltage to the intank pump, no use filling up the surge tank over and over with the same fuel if the main pump isn't using all of it. 2. I would check the voltage at the low voltage relay when both pumps are running, it may drop below the threshold required to hold the relay open 3. Also I would check the voltage at the high voltage relay when the pumps are running for the same reason. A few minutes with the multimeter shoud reveal all. Cheers Gary

I see no logic in having an over the top fuel system in the rare chance that one of the components might fail suddenly without notice, without any indication, just stop pumping. Manufacturers realise how import fuel is, that's why the failure rate on fuel pumps is miniscule, tiny, almost non existent. If you're that paranoid how about you watch the knock warning light on the dash if you have a Power FC, or wire in a fuel pressure sensor if you have a Motec, Autronic or any number of high end ECU's that have that facility, or if you don't have any of those ECU's how about you buy a fuel pressure gauge and bother to look at it. The high end gauges (GReddy for example) also have an adjustable warning light for low fuel pressure that is so bright surely you can't ignore it. I'm actually beginning to think it's really for bragging rights, "my car has a bigger fuel refinery in the boot than yours" or "my car has so many fuel pumps I need a bigger stereo". Cheers Gary

I know it is on the Superlap web site somewhere, but for us dummies how about a link on the Home page that tells everyone who is running without searching for an obscure link somewhere in the text? Cheers Gary

Why don't you stick an RB25 or RB26 crank in it?.....................in fact, have you tried a seach on "RB24's"? There is plenty of information on them. Cheers Gary

There is no such thing as a best for all setting, every engine is different. Plus it depends on what you personally want, more mid range, or more top end, you can't have both. Most people aim for more mid range as that is where they spend the most time driving. In which case, around 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust camshaft timing is the place to start. Cheers Gary

I assume that these are RB25 HKS cams, not RB26? If you have truly installed and timed the cams correctly with the standard pulleys, then there is something else wrong. Cheers Gary

Why? For what reason are you doing it? Planning on some track work? Concerned about fuel surge? Have you thought about mounting the 044 in tank and not letting the tank get below 1/4 full? Is that simple requirement worth the extra complexity and hassle from a boot mounted fuel refinery? Or are you doing it just for the bragging rights? Cheers Gary

A dual mass flywheel is like a harmonic balancer, it dampens the inherent V6 vibrations caused by the firing order and the shared big end journals. Plus it absorbs some of the inertia impact when the clutch is engaged swiftly. What the posters are saying is that the gearbox input shaft rattles at idle due to the engine pulsations. This is easy to check, stick the car on the hoist, let it idle and raise the hoist, grab a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the gearbox around the input shaft bearing location. Take about 20 seconds to confirm if that is in fact the source of the rattle. Total cost $not very much. Cheers Gary

Interesting.............I have a a question though. If excessive airflow on its own doesn't activate R&R why do I see rich A/F ratios and retarded timing on the dyno even when there is zero knock? The Stagea suffers from this on cold days. I run 100 ron fuel (Shell V Power Racing) with the SITC retarding the ignition and so there is no knock that I can detect, but the A/F ratios drop from high 11's down to low 9's and the ignition retards 10 to 15 degrees. Maybe the ignition cut can explain the richer A/F ratios due to the resulting unburnt fuel, but it doesn't account for the retarded ignition. The R&R isn't as severe as when there is knock, but it's still there. Cheers Gary

The rule is simple, the further away from direct contact with the main chassis the lessor effect on NVH. So the outer (close to wheel) pivoting joints are always OK, they are insulated by other bushes in the control arms and the subframes, so you are pretty much guaranteed to be safe with; Rear Control arm outer lowers Upper trailing arm rear Lower trailing arm rear Next safest for NVH is the inners, as the subframe insulates them, these should be OK; Front Upper Control arm inners Lower control arm inners Rear Upper control arm inners Lower control arm inner Upper trailing arm front Lower trailing arm front So the most NVH risky are; Front Steering rack mount Rear Differential mount Subframe mount front Subframe mount rear In general the Noltec bushes are a little better for NVH than Nolathane or SuperPro due to their formulation. We have most of these in stock at the moment, but quantities are very low, so if you want to do it don't delay too long. Cheers Gary