Sydneykid

Nope, rear shock mounts are different. Cheers gary

If you can't move things rearward (to the boot or the cabin) then moving them to the LHS is the go to help offset the driver's weight on the RHS. The intercooler for example, do you have it mounted centrally? How about moving it to the left slightly? Similarly the driver's seat, move it over as close to the transmission tunnel as possible. That's good for weight distribution plus it helps with safety, moving the driver away from the door. The standard clutch lines have a a loop for cooling, a mounting block, bleed nipple etc. Flick it all and use one short piece of braided hose. It doesn't save much weight but its on the RHS, so every little bit helps. Cheers Gary

The best height for handling and ride comfort in a GTST is 350 mm front and 340 mm rear. That gives ~10 mm rake (nose down) at the sills. I am not sure that adjusting the camber will help. The relationship between the upright and the wheel doesn't change much when you change the camber. Caster might be a better option, see what the wheel alignment reveals. Cheers Gary

It's pretty much all in the Group Buy thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html KCA332 Caster Kit $110.00 KCA336 Front Camber kit $183.00 KCA347 Rear Camber Kits $123.00 x 2 = $246.00 KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00 N62012 Rear Lower control arm inner $65.00 N92447 Subframe replacement $199.00 Steering Rack $70.00 Total $978.00 delivered Cheers Gary

Sure do. Cheers Gary

Another tip to help us answer your PM's quickly. For obvious reasons we don't keep every PM, and we get so many that we can't possibly remember them all. So please keep the thread of the PM's so that when you send a new one it has all the previous correspondence. That way we can quickly identify what it is that you need and what has previously been said. Cheers Gary

Hi Ben I actually reponded to your PM about 20 minutes ago, good timing. Cheers Gary

We sell the swaybars that we make, so that's a plus. The only benefit from the rest is improving our negotiations for sponsorship of the race team from the suppliers. Cheers Gary

Please guys, help your selves out here. Some days we get more PM's than we can answer in a day and they get carried over to the next day, last weekend I was away (first time in 20+ weeks) so I had 3 days of PM's to catch up. This weekend I am at Oran Park with 2 of the race team cars so I probably won't answer PM's unitl Monday. Sending me a PM at 10.00 am and not getting a response, then sending another PM at 11.00 am and not getting a response, then another at 1.00 pm etc etc. That doesn't help anyone, we answer the PM's as we receive them, filling up the inbox selfishly with your PM's won't get the first one answered any faster. I think we are up to over 200 guys with Group Buy kits so far, every single one of them has received what they paid for. I am not going anywhwere, you will get your stuff, I leverage the suppliers as best I can but I can't make them go any faster. Cheers Gary

We have answered 20 PM 's and deleted them so far today and we received 20 more. Keep trying. Cheers Gary

What about the fuel pump, have you moved that over to the LHS and rearwards? The rest of the fuel refinery in the boot? Radiator overflow bottle? Power steering reservoir? ATTESA reservoir? Winscreen washer bottle? Catch can? Driver's seat? Stereo speakers? Clutch lines? Remote oil filter? Oil cooler? Intercooler? Rear winscreen wiper? Seat belts and mountings? Unused brackets? etc etc etc Every little bit helps. Cheers Gary

What standard? Standard new out of the factory? (~45 mm) Standard new after 1,000 k's? (~40 mm) Standard new after 10 years of unknown use? (measure it) Cheers Gary

Yep, the Group Buy price is $144 a pair http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html They give a ride height of 355 mm front and 345 mm (centre of wheel to guard) Yep Good choice, if you haven't already done it I strongly suggest that you get extra circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins. That way you can adjust the height to where you want it. In fact you could retain the standard springs and simply use the circlip grooves to lower it, to around 365 mm is about the most you can go using standard springs though. Cheers Gary

A standard new R34GTT is ~385 mm front and ~375 mm rear (that's centre of wheel to guard). The best height I have found for handling, while maintaining reasonable ride comfort, is 355 mm front and 345 mm. That gives around 100 mm clearance at the lowest point (under the rear subframe) using a 3" exhaust. If the exhaust is really tucked up close to the subframe, you might just sneak 350/340 but I haven't found a Japanese system that does that so far. Cheers Gary

Obviously the best way to adjust the corner weights is to move something. An example, moving the battery from the front (which is the heavy end) RHS (which is the heavy side) to the rear LHS makes a useful difference. But when you run out of things to move, then adjusting the height of each corner is the go. Cheers Gary

My 20 cents; 1. You can use pretty much any decent Nissan AFM with any Power FC, just select the appropriate one from the menu. I have seen over 1100 bhp through AFM's so using them is hardly a power constraint. 2. I use the Commander for all sorts of things, a few examples. I can turn the boost down, or up, if I want, in a few seconds. This is useful for track days, inexperienced drivers, a night at the drags etc. I can retard the ignition timing any number of degrees, this is usefull if I get stuck having to use sub standard petrol in an emergency. I can increase the idle speed on a hot day in traffic to make the air con cooler. Or to circulate the water faster if the temp is creeeping up. All of the engine sensor outputs are shown live on the Commander, using it as a diagnostic tool it is a simple process to find one that may be faulty. I can check injector duration, engine knock levels, AFM voltage etc etc. For tuning a lap top is definitely the go, but once you learn to use it, a Commander is a very useful tool in its own right. Cheers Gary

I picked one at random; Wow I am really worried Cheers Gary

Pistons with a 4.5cc dish sounds about right for 8.5 to 1 using a 62 cc combustion chamber. We run flat tops for 9.0 to 1. Cheers Gary

I also used the unused HICAS lines as they are the right diameter and go from (rear RHS) and to (front RHS) the right places. I made up a 4 braided hoses, 2 for the engine end and 2 for the boot end. They simply screw onto the HICAS lines. I used the original HICAS fittings for samples and took them along to Motorsport Connections to buy the connectors. For the later version I actually bought the relevant fittings and hose online from Racer Parts Wholesale in the US, for about half what the first set cost. For changing filters and draining the tank I have a Jiffy Tite dry break fitting installed in the hose; Cheers Gary

My GTR-S low mount was far less cramped than the current top mount. Plus it was in the main air stream going out of the under bonnet area and flowing down beside the engine and gearbox. The pipework ran much cooler than the current top mount, which has very little, if any, airflow past it. Cheers Gary

The rear left being lighter is normal, the driver is on the RHS after all. The usual corner weighting adjustment is to shorten (take weight off) the RHS rear to compensate. Cheers Gary

I trust you are not puting in rear upper control arms without also changing the traction arms? That's a recipe for bump steer problems. If you are getting traction arms at the same time, do you know how to align the lengths of the arms (control and traction) to minimise the bump steer before you fit them? Also have you got the equipment (bump steer gauge) and experience necessary to align them for zero bump steer once they are fitted to the car? Cheers Gary

Let me try and convince you; 1. Maybe you're just lucky and of course Roy has an RB20 . I don't know the condition of the poster's engine, so I always assume the worst. In this case I have to assume that he wouldn't have bought a catch can if he didn't think the engine needed one. And/or he was intending doing some track work that necessitated a catch can. 2. Scavenging the catch can directly into the combustion process under vacuum (no boost) is never ever a bad thing. Even if you only save the inlet tract from 1 drop of oil being sprayed through it, once per day. I am not saying it is necessary, that it absolutely has to be done. What I am saying is it's not a bad idea, has no downsides, so why not do it and take advantage of the upsides. 3. The job of a catch can is to firstly separate the oil from the engine's oily air discharge. Then allow the air to escape (to atmosphere and/or into the combustion process) and trap the oil. One of the things that works well in that process is to take the velocity out of the airflow. That's why I always suggest 2 hoses. Once again I am not saying it is 100% necessary, just that it's not a bad idea, has no downsides, so why not do it and take advantage of the upsides. The problem with most off the shelf catch cans is that they are too small, they aren't large enough to take the velocity out of the airflow. Runing 2 hoses effectively increases the size of the catch can. I have had 9 x RB's since 1999 and every one of them breathed, some more than others of course. I have used probably 20 x GTR standard intercoolers and every one of them had a volume of oil film inside preventing them from working efficiently. So I rely on my own personal experiences, that's why I posted up the various options for catch can plumbing. Cheers Gary

My PM inbox had penty of space 4 times over the weekend and it filled up 4 times. It hasn't been full for 1 whole day let alone 10 days, you just haven't been lucky enough to get in before the other 40+ guys each day. Every PM gets answered in the order in which they are received, as they always have. Cheers Gary

A few facts perhaps; 500 rwhp is not 450 rwkw, that's 600 rwhp last time I checked. That's 20% more power, which is hardly SIMILAR POWER (your words) Having HELL TROUBLE(your words) with 500 rwhp is not the same as TRACTION PROBLEMS (my words) with 600 rwhp. So I stand by what I originally posted, if you are having HELL TOUBLE with 500 rwhp on 11" slicks then you need to work on the suspension setup. Is that specific enough for you? Cheers Gary