Sydneykid

They'll be OK, not perfecrt obviously but OK for now. I prefer not to discuss prices on the forum, some people get upset. Budget for around half what the Bilsteins cost and you should get a pleasant surprise. Cheers Gary

Which bush is it? Obviously some positions have more potential for generating NVH than others. Cheers Gary

Sorry, the inbox is full again, makes 5 days in a row, we received 42 PM'S yesterday and we answer every one of them in the order that we receive them. So if you have sent one please be patient, we will get to it. From memory you were after a coil over conversion for the Bilsteins that you already have, correct me if I'm wrong. If that's the case, then the bad news is Eibach (Australia) did't have the springs in stock and they had to come from Germany. The good news is they have been promised for this week. So Matt will get back to you as soon as this is confirmed. Cheers Gary

The problem I find with running in on the chassis dyno is heat, even with 2 dyno fans the gearbox gets stinking hot as does the diff and the tyres. There is simply not the same airflow in, under and around the car as there is when actually driving it. That and finding dyno time, or rather paying for it. If it's a track only car then we do a little running in while checking the initial tune, maybe 20 to 30 minutes. That also confirms that there isn't any infant mortality in the engine build. Then it's track time, there is always a track day on at EC or OP sometime during the week that it needs to be run in. Chees Gary

And you think people get up to some fiddling with chasis dynos, what makes you think engine dynos are any better? All the same tricks still work on an an engine dyno, plus you have a climate controlled room that you can play with. How much more horsepower does it make if we lower the room temperature to say 5 degrees compared to a 30 degree day outside? We are talking especially temperature sensitive turbo cars here, with intercoolers, oil coolers and large radiators. How much horsepower does it make if we lower the intercooler temperature to say -5 degrees, mix in enough cold water to lower the water temp in the heads to say 75 degrees and keep the oil at a nice 100 degrees? Plenty of fun for everyone Cheers Gary

Nope, their high frequency bump valving is far from ideal for drag racing and that is not adjustable. That's all OK, but obviously you would be much better off with a proper drag radial. Cheers Gary

They fit the adjustable bar. Cheers Gary

A handfull of off the shelf parts from the US and a good tune for 700 bhp. But (there is always a "but") I heard close to 1900 kgs, makes an R35GTR seem light in comparison. Cheers Gary

Help, I want one of those grills, where can I get one fairly quickly? The Stagea is going in for some paint work finally, the DAYZ side skirts, so it's a good oportunity to get a grill painted at the same time. Cheers Gary

From 9 years experience with both of them in a race environment, I can tell you with certainty that a GTR is damn site harder to set up than a GTST. I don't see a real lot of difference in the driving talent required either, I'm crap in either of them. Cheers Gary

At 450 rwkw, a 2wd is simply not going to get the job done, even with full slicks on board the GTST is going to suffer traction problems. There is only one answer and that's a GTR, you already know that, so get on with it Cheers Gary

Every one of my cars (trust me, that's a lot of cars) has had a lightened flywheel at some time in its life. None of them, not a single one, has had any chatter or rattle, except the damn multiplates and that's normal. When the R32/33/34's get old, the gears in the box rattle a little at idle, but again that's normal for that size of box. The clutch fork sometimes rattles, but that usually a sign of a worn slave cylinder not holding pressure on the thrust bearing. I doubt the V35 would be doing any of that. So I am left with my original thought, something isn't spot on. Cheers Gary

I change the first oil filter after 10 to 20 minutes running. New oil filter and top up the Castrol GTX. Do 500 k's, usually to Bathurst and back, lots of uphill stuff to load the engine. Check the leak down, if OK then change the oil filter and oil to Castrol Edge 10W60. Cheers Gary

Castrol GTX, the basic 100% mineral oil, no friction modifiers, no synthetics, otherwise the rings won't run in. Cheers Gary

R32 N1 turbos or R34 N1 turbos? R34 N1 turbos are pretty much the same as 2530's and Paul did 10.something on a pair of them. Does that count? Cheers Gary

The same rear subframe alignment kit fits all models of R32/33/34. Cheers Gary

You could try it, if it axle tramps then get of the throttle before it breaks anything. Then you know which is the better of the two evils, at least until you can afford to do it properly. Cheers Gary

What oil did you run the engine in on? Cheers Gary

Where do I start Axle tramp, with the increased torque the standard rear springs will wind up pretty fast and recoil just as fast. The standard shocks have no hope of controlling that and you will get severe axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts and diffs. Not to mention is very slow due to the lack of traction while the wheels are bouncing up and down. I have plenty more if you need it. Cheers Gary

All true, but then there are other truths as well that indicate it should be even faster. The tyres were hardly pristine, so it would have gone faster with better rubber. The rear bump steer and camber angles are much better, but the front is still far from ideal, it would definitely be easier to drive and faster with that fixed. The spring rates and shock valving I chose for it were a guess, I have never been involved with that 300ZX configuration before, so it truly was a guess. The number of laps was limited due to other issues etc etc. So there are plenty or valid reasons to believe that there is more potential there. The glass is most definitely half full, not half empty. Cheers Gary

Are you sure that the noise is coming from the exhaust? That exhaust system looks plenty silencing to me. I have had several experiences with race cars where fiiting extra mufflers made very little difference to the total noise. On one car we stuck some carpet underfelt around the ar filter box and it passed the noise test without changing the exhaust at all. On another car we retarded the ignition and advanced the exhaust camshaft timing and it quitened it down enough to pass. So the answer may not be in modifying the exhaust itself. Cheers Gary

How does a flywheel rattle? It's a solid piece of steel with a starter motor ring gear shrunk onto it. There isn't anything to rattle, unless the ring gear is loose or the flywheel bolts (to the crank) aren't tight. Either of which is a frightening thought. The pressure plate shouldn't rattle in a single plate clutch, the intermediate plates do that in a multiplate clutch, but there isn't any of them in a single plate. So that leaves the clutch plate itself, the generally only rattle if/when the springs wear loose. Again, not a good thought in a new clutch. Personally I would be taking it back to whoever installed it and have them stop the rattle, whatever is causing it, as none of the options are particularly appealing for the life of the clutch. Cheers Gary

We fixed the rear bump steer on John's 300ZXX and put some decent springs and shocks in it and it was 1.5 seconds faster at Philip Island and almost 1 second faster at Wakefield. So 1.02 at QR should be doable. Cheers Gary

So there is no bolt in the slotted hole, meaning no threaded hole in your RB20 block? Cheers Gary

OK, I'm confused, 15 + 25 = 40 mm and increasing the width from 9" to 10" is only 25.4 mm. From memory, 10" @+20 mm (compared to 9" @+30 mm) is 2.7 mm further out and 22.7 mm further in. I don't think the 2.7 mm further out is going to be a problem. But 22.7 mm further in will be, due to the shockshaft on the rear. Cheers Gary