Sydneykid

I know that you know enough to figure out what works for you, so I just throw out the information and you absorb what you can. You are spot on that increasing the travel helps with impact absorbtion, but it introduces other problems. As I mentioned above, that being bump steer and regressive camber change. You could engineer out the bump steer and correct the camber curves, as John is doing on the Zed. But that is time consuming, requires some equipment and experience to overcome. There is a simpler solution. What I would suggest is that raising the ride height for those tracks is a superior solution, that's what we do at Sandown for example for the huge bump at the end of the pit straight. It's a lot simpler and less fraught with compromises than the alternatives. But some people (not you) cling fanatically to the "low is always better" philosophy, even when it is obviously the route of the problem. Cheers Gary

That wasn't a negative post, I was just curious as to whether the alignment was altered after such a major change to the suspension. If the alignment had been changed then it would have contributed to the result. If the alignment hadn't been changed, then there is more potential in there to be found. As for the real negative posts, I think it stems from incomplete information that some readers would like to know. Especially if they are truly interested in finding out if the result is in fact a good one or a bad one. An example perhaps, based on past experiences I could do a track wheel alignment on an Evo 4/5/6 and find a second a lap, that's good value for $100 in labour plus a few $low value parts. Or I could fit a pair of swaybars and pick up clsoe to 2 seconds, that's even better value for $500 and an hour's fitting. So back to my original post, for $2K the 1 sec improvement is not good value if the alignment has be optimised, but it's not that bad a value if the alignment is still unsorted. Cheers Gary

Who is this Cliff? I'd better warn him Cheers Gary

I'm with Roy, $800 is a fair price when you add up the components you get for it. I went a little further on the R33GTST where I used the UAS (lower control arm) air scoops/deflectors, UAS adaptors with the standard callipers, braided lines, 324 mm DBA5000 series rotors and Hawk pads and it easily outbrakes the "R" type tyres for a whole 20 minute track session. Cheers Gary

Yes Cheers Gary

Standard links are OK, as long as they are standard R32GTST links, not some other model. Sorry I am not very good at identifying ride height from pictures, I need a tape measure to get the job done. More travel (from the Teins) is actually a bad sign, increasing the travel (compression) rotates the swaybar towards the sump more than less travel. Just another reason why I never use short shocks. Add that to regressive positive camber curves and bump steer. The solution is to rotate the sump dip on the swaybar, which is a simple $50 mod, send the bar up and allow 2 days . Cheers Gary

Yep, it was a bit testy, but I had just replied to 4 x PM's that day asking the same question. Because guys bought a cheap product without instructions, couldn't be bothered going back to the people that they bought it from, asking for their instructions and don't use the search function which would have given them the answer instantly. Cheers Gary

Spring rate is obviously way too high for road work, even too high for track work unless you are using slicks. The best (cost effective) recommendation I can give is to stick the rear springs in the front and buy a set of rear springs around 225/250 lbs/inch (4 to 4.5 kg/mm). Tanabe shocks are OK in a typical Japanese way, not good but OK. Try the spring swap and see how you like it. Cheers Gary

Say hello to Ralph for me and tell him to buy more swaybars Cheers Gary

So he fitted new springs and shocks (Evo's have coil overs standard) and DIDN'T CHANGE THE WHEEL ALIGNMENT Cheers Gary

This thread explains my thoughts on adjustable arms http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...tml&hl=arms To which I would add, if you change the rear upper control arms you have to also change the traction arms and adjust them in tandem. Otherwise you will end up with a gross amount of bump steer. Plus you should keep in mind that aftermarket arms still use the standard (soft, rubber, worn out) bushes in the uprights (hubs). So you have a solid spherical in the inner joint and mushy rubber in the outer joint, not a good mix. The rear camber kits we use (Noltec or Whiteline) can be used to replace all of the buhes with polyurethane and enable adjustment of BOTH the upper control arm and the traction rod, hence removing the above problems. Cheers Gary

At 325/320 you will have lots of bump steer, particularly at the rear. The camber curves will go postive due to the upper control arms being past parallel (to the road) at static height. Combine the bump steer with the camber moving towards positive as the suspension compresses and you have a recipe for a distinct lack of traction. A front camber kit ($183 on the Group Buy) and 2 rear camber kits ($123 on the Group Buy) will fix the camber problems. As Robbie said get some caster on it ($110) and flog those G4's to someone else. BTW at 325/320 you will be losing around 25 bhp due to the accute driveshaft angles. Cheers Gary

That's a good one Roy, never seen that happen before. Is the picture taken with the car at normal ride height? Because if it is, the bar is not in its usual position in relation to the sump, it should be rotated further forward. What links are you using? If they are too short, it will rotate the bar towards the sump. Then, when the suspension compresses, the bar will rotate further than intended and hit the sump. The other possible issue is ride height and how far the suspension compresses before the bump stops limit the travel. What static height is it and how much travel before bump stop contact? Cheers Gary

If you had bought the Whiteline Rear Subframe Alignment Kit you would have received the instructions, plus 6 bushes (instead of only 4 like you have now). Cheers Gary

That's a well tested (since 1999) set up, so I am not surprised that it works Cheers Gary

Try the Whiteline Canadian distributor; PDM Racing Automotive Contact: Don, Colin, Jon 6993 Antrim Avenue Burnaby, B.C. Canada V5J 4M5 Phone: (604) 430-4512 Fax: (604) 430-4513 web: www.pdm-racing.com email: [email protected] Or the US one; Global Performance Parts 4554 - 128th Ave Holland. MI 49424. USA Ph: 616 399 9025 Fax: 616 399 9174 Web: www.globalperformanceparts.com Zach Thomas - Whiteline Product Specialist Email: [email protected] Glenn Dirkse - Whiteline Product Specialist Email: [email protected] Cheers Gary

Tow the rear out 2 mm each side, raise the rear ride height 5 mm and you won't have to run as much negative camber on the front so it will stop and accelerate better. Cheers Gary

Rear strut brace on R33/34's = not very good value for money. Cheers Gary

0.25 degrees Cheers Gary

Try here, page 1 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html You can't adjust the front camber or caster, there are no adjusters standard. These two items fix that; KCA332 Caster Kit $110.00 KCA348 Front Camber kit $272.00 You can adjust the front toe You can adjust the rear camber a small amount (~0.25 degrees) as there is a standard camber adjuster. If it needs adjusting more than 0.25 degrees then this fixes that; KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00 Also you can adjust the rear toe Cheers Gary

Yep Cheers Gary

Front Too much negative camber at 2.04/2.53 degrees, it will wear out the insides of the tyres rather quickly. Aim for around 1.0 degrees negative for spirited road driving. Looking at that amount of camber I would suggest it's too low. They handle and ride best around 350 mm at the front, centre of wheel to guard. Lots of stagger is the caster (7.86 / 5.91) when you remove the camber you will get slightly more caster on the RHS which will help even that out a bit. I would set the toe at zero. Rear Too much negative camber at 2.23/2.42 degrees, it will wear out the insides of the tyres rather quickly. Aim for around 0.75 to 1.0 degrees negative for spirited road driving. Looking at that amount of camber I would suggest it's too low. They handle and ride best around 340 mm rear, centre of wheel to guard. The toe looks OK. Cheers Gary

They are fairly sensible rates, which Nimso do occasionally. Cheers Gary

Hi Shaun, the standard spring rates are around 3kg/mm front and rear and the Whiteline springs are around 20% to 25% higher. Not enough to make a lot of difference compared to the effort required to change them for drag racing, you would be much better off using the Rear Subframe Alignment Kit on the Maximum Traction setting. The other worthwhile trick is adjusting out the negative camber on the rear. We have found around 0.5 degrees positive camber is a good place to start. It is not unusual for the RHS to be lower than the left, most times the car has just the driver in it and takes a set to the right over time. For height correction, the method I use is to measure the heights on all 4 corners then adjust the lowest of the pairs up the necessary amount. That is usually the RHS rear, move it up one circlip groove. That will lift the RHS rear 8 mm and lower the LHS front around 3 mm. See how that would work against your current measurements. Cheers Gary

I adjust the LHS mirror so that I can see a car in the blind spot. I don't need to see a car in the left hand lane that is 2 car lengths behind me, I only need to see the one that I would hit if I changed lanes. Plus I also adjust the internal mirror so it is biased to the left. I don't need to see the RHS out of the internal mirror, the RHS outside mirror does that for me. So many cars I get into give 3 views of the same car, one in the RHS outside mirror one in the internal mirror and one in the LHS outside mirror. I don't need to see it 3 times to know that it's there. Each mirror does it's own job, very little overlap is required. Try it, it works Cheers Gary