Sydneykid

For handling the recommended ride height for an R33GTST is 350mm front and 340mm rear. Which gives a 10mm rake, nose down as measured at the sills, just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. Cheers Gary

The problem with V Power Racing is and always has been since its launch, regularity of availability. I am relatively lucky in that my local Shell is a VPR stockist. But if I don’t get there on Wednesday night, the day the delivery of VPR happens, I can’t get any as they run out with 24 hours. If I need VPR for the weekend racing then I make sure I am at the servo Wednesday afternoon. Personally I would be using 3 to 4 times as much VPR as I currently do if it was available all the time, as in 7 days a week. The next issue is unreliability of supply, there have been long periods of time, weeks in fact, when VPR is simply not available. So Shell looking at how much VPR they have sold is not a good indicator of the demand. To get a true indication what they should be looking at is what they HAVEN’T sold because it was unavailable. Not an easy question to answer, but unless they answer that very question they will have no idea what the potential market is. Hence they can’t make a decision as to the real viability of VPR. Cheers Gary

Pikes Peak Hillclimb Ari Vatenan Peugeot 405 T16 After 20 years nothing else even comes close. Cheers Gary

Toyota Camry, the new Volvo Cheers Gary

More BS about research from a fuel company, why am I not surprised When the last fuel crisis occured the FACTS were that car enthusiasts didn't drive their cars any less than they did before the crisis. Why? BECAUSE WE ARE CAR ENTHUSIASTS We drive our cars anyway, that's how we get our jollies. In comparison to what else we spend on the car, fuel costs are a MINISCULE part. We just keep on driving because we enjoy it. Plus I actually like the idea of the average Wally not driving his car because of fuel prices, it means less traffic for me to get stuck in. So I plan to enjoy my car even more. WAKE UP SHELL, you should be making MORE V Power Racing and less of the low octane crap that the Wallys use, because they are the ones that are staying home, not us enthusiasts. So Adam, run that logic up the Shell flagpole and see who will argue with you about it, because whoever they are they know absolutely nothing about the people who actually use V Power Racing. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

For the Kiwis, Shock Absorber Services are our NZ agent for Selbys Swaybars. You can find SAS at 611 Gt South Road, Manukau or on phone number 09 262 3684. They get a monthly shipment of swaybars from us so even specials (like the Group Buy bars) are available. Cheers Gary

Unless you have a specific need for increasing the steering lock (eg; drifting) or you are attempting to adjust out some bump steer, the best choice is the standard set up. There are 2 different length rack ends in R32's, 258 mm or 280 mm, they appear randomly in different models. So you need to measure yours to make sure you get the right ones. The price is the same, RRP is $43 each, Group Buy discount makes that $37 each. The tie rod ends are the same regardless which rack end, they are RRP $31 each, Group Buy discount makes that $26 each. So the total cost for all 4 items is $127 and that includes delivery. PM me for details For DIY, simply measure the current length of the rack ends and adjust the new ones to the same length. Then when you install them in the car the alignment (toe) should be pretty close to where it is now. As always it is advisable to get the wheel alignment checked, but at least you can drive the car for a few days until you make it to the workshop. Cheers Gary

You will pick up another 1.0 degree to 1.25 degrees when the height is optimised. Cheers Gary

Call me any time, I am at work more than anywhere else these day. Although I will get out to EC this weekend to catch up with the Melbourne based part of the race team. There was an earlier "road" version that wasn't engineered for the loads that R type tyres and/or slicks placed on them. They flexed minutely and this loosened the retaining bolts over time. This later "motorsport" version is engineered for track use with sticky tyres, so there is no flex and the bolts stay retained. Obviously I would still include them on the list for spanner checking before each race meeting, but no more frequent than that. Cheers Gary

PM on its way. Cheers Gary

I have always found it necessary to take a couple of degrees of timing out of a dyno tune for track work. That's even allowing for the fact that we use chassis ears during tuning. On the dyno the controlled load limits the engine to increasing rpm at a slower rate than what we get on the road/track. Plus the dyno runs are done in 4th gear, which is even more of a even/smooth loading rpm increase than say 2nd or 3rd gears. The real world, faster and less even rpm increases manifest themselves as a propensity to knock. Hence taking a couple of degrees out is a good idea for road cars. For the race cars we tune using 98 ron on the dyno and then run 100 ron on the track, that seems to be an effective way of avoiding the knock problem. Most tuners I speak to do the same. Cheers Gary

We have replaced 4 sets in customer cars due to knocking caused by wear of spherical joints exacerbated by the lack of dust covers. As well as no dust covers for the spherical joints you have to reuse the standard boots on the rack ends, which on an R32 is not a good idea. If you MUST use them then my advice would be to spend the extra time and effort buying dust covers and new boots. Cheers Gary

Are the top and bottom measurements the inside diameter? If so 80 lbs/inch (1.4kg/mm), which is very low. Are they progressive coils? A number of coils that collapse onto one another as soon as the weight of the car is applied to them? Hence reducing the number of effective coils. Usually around 4 coils, in which case the rate would be 180 lbs/inch (3.2 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

The standard R32GTR hollow swaybar is equivalent to a 20.5mm sold bar, so a 22 mm bar is an effective rate increase of 30%, a 24 mm bar is 85%. That's not allowing for the vertical blading of the arms on the adjustable bars which adds further to the rate as it reduces the flex in the arms. On the anti roll rate comparitor the 24 mm adjustable bar gives around 90%, 96% and 103% increases over the standard bar. Keeping in mind that the standard anti roll rate on the front of an R32GTR is not too bad, however the rear anti roll rate is grossly underdone, hence why the increases there are more than double the front. Obviously with an adjustable (bladed) bar of larger than standard diameter the extra material has to go somewhere, in one or more of the 4 directions (up/down /and/or forward/backward). We choose the direction least likely to cause interference. You are the first person I know of to have an issues on an R32GTR with driveshaft contact. We make over 300 R32 front swaybars a year, so it is obvioulsy a pretty rare occurance. Looking at the possible issues, my guesses would be more front end geometry (caster/camber) than the average and/or the ride height is perhaps lower. Whatever modifications the swaybar needs we can do, just get Ralph (Trutrack) to give me a call and we will work through the solution. Cheers Gary

Standard GTR bars are hollow, so outside diameter is a meaningless comparison without allowing for the wall thickness. We run 24 mm solid front swaybars on R32GTR's with 5 settings of adjustment per arm in combination with a 24 mm rear swaybar with 3 setting of adjustment on the rear. I would always recommend using the standard front drop links on a road car. For a track car we use an adjustable length spherical link kit as it enables us to corner weight the car without preloading the swaybars. As always spherical bearings are a serviceable item, even the dust boot covered ones need greasing regularly and change the sphericals usually once per seqason of racing. Link to the R32GTR Group Buy including swaybars; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 Cheers Gary

I installed a set today on an R32GTST and I could get 5 degrees negative, that's with 6 degrees of caster at a ride height of 350mm. On my own R32GTST I have run 4.5 degrees negative with some adjustment left also with 6 degrees of caster and 350 mm ride height. On 2 x R32GTR's I have seen over 4.5 degrees with caster at 5.0 deggres and a ride heigjht of 355mm. The 2 x Whiteline Camber Kits KCA336's in the same car made 3.4 degrees negative with a minimum centre of bolt to centre of bolt of 173 mm. The Noltec arm measures 168 mm at the minimum length so it must give scope for increased negative camber. I can't see how you couldn't achieve 4 degrees, unless something is bent, you are running much higher ride height or much more caster. If that's the case, what you could do is use the Whiteline offset bush in the outer joint of the Noltec arm, that would give you a minimum length of 163 mm. However you do need to be carefull as to how short you effectively make the upper arm, the shorter it is the more twisting load you put on the bushes and the quicker they wear out. Plus it will bind up on the extremes of suspension compression, not to mention cause the tyres to rub on the inner guard. Cheers Gary

The answer on duration depends on what RPM range you are targetting, be realistic. If you intend to use 7,000 to 9,500 rpm, something around 272 to 288 degrees would be the go. For 5,500 to 8,000 rpm, around 260 to 272 and for 4,500 to 7,500 rpm then 248 to 260 is the go. That's a simplification, but you get the idea. As for lift, once I know the effective rpm range, I then choose the highest lift I can for that duration. What valve springs you are using will also determine the maximum lift. Cheers Gary

Standard RB26 valve springs shimmed up for seat pressure to suite the cams. Performance Springs for mild cams up to 264 degrees and 10 mm lift, then Jun valve springs for more aggressive cams. Cheers Gary

Block the middle and use the front feed (the VCT one) and then restrict the rear feed according to the table. Cheers Gary

100% agree, we did it before RB25/26 heads were readily available at reasonable cost. The required welding and machining of the RB20 head makes it far more expensive than simply bolting on an RB25 head. There are lots of issues with running an 86 mm bore into a 78 mm diameter cylinder head. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

As per the first post, 3 to 4 weeks to manufacture the 25. How long it will take to sell the 25 is a hard question for me to answer. We are up to 11 so far, so at that rate maybe a week to 10 days until they are all gone. Cheers Gary

The adjustment range is the largest I have tested in any R32 upper arm, and I have tried a lot. There is over 8 degrees of camber adjustment, so if you can't remove the required amount of negative then there is something wrong with the car. Cheers Gary

Sorry, we are currently 3 days behind in replying to PM's, we received more than 90 over the weekend. Be assured that every PM gets replied to in the order in which they are received. Cheers Garty