Sydneykid

You should only be using one oil flow restrictor with the other oil feed blocked off. Cheers Gary

Bingo. There are lots of differences between an R32GTST and an R32GTR. Some from memory 1 afm instead of 2 no air temp sensor different water temp sensors ATTESA ouput knock sensors 1 lambda sensor instead of 2 TPS provision for auto injector impedance What DJetro model do you have? I assume R32GTR? You realy need to sit down with the two pin out diagrams and compare them pin by pin. The answer is most likely there in different usages for the same pin. The hand controller is also useful, stick it on the sensor diagnostics screen and look for unusual readings. Cheers Gary

kids....hang on my login is Sydneykid Warming up for Al Pacino imitation Is he talkin' 'bout me? Hey, you talkin' 'bout me? Sorry, back to the topic at hand....WA.......tuner......helped Wolf......turns standard injectors into super injectors with his bare hands.........that would be............well we know who it is, don't we. Cheers Gary

I hate talking about lowering amounts, because lowering from what? Not all R34GTT were the same height when new, not all have settled the same amount, some have even sagged, many are up to 10 mm lower on the RHS than the LHS. So I prefer to talk about absolutes, centre of wheel to guard, which you will find most suspension engineers do also. Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear (that's no limited editions, anniversary specials or others that can have different heights up to 10 mm) Around 50,000 k's they are often at 375 mm front and 365 mm rear, with the RHS rear 360 and the LHS rear 370. If the shocks haven't been changed and they have done 100,000 ks or so, they are usually 370 mm front and 360 mm rear, with the RHS rear 355 and the LHS rear 360. The Whiteline springs will result in ~350/340, that's with the spring seats in their standard position. That's 30 mm lower from standard new, but might only be 20 mm lower in a car with stuffed shocks and sagged springs. The Group Buy Bilsteins for the R34GTT have 7 circlip grooves, all 8 mm appart, 2 standard plus 3 lower + 2 higher. So with the standard springs you can use the 1st, 2nd or 3rd of the lower grooves to get 8mm, 16mm or 24 mm lower than what the car is with the standard shocks in place. But there is a problem, with the standard springs you can really only go down to 356 mm (380-24)/346 mm(370 -24) because the standard spring rate isn't able to absorb bumps with any less travel than that height allows. So if you have a sagged car that is already 370/360 you can only lower it 16 mm (2 grooves) to 354/344. The Whiteline springs have a slightly higher spring rate, that's why they can handle 350/340 (using the standard height groove). So you could lower it using the 3 lower grooves available (ie; 326/316), but it is not something I would recommend, ever. Simple isn't it? Cheers Gary

Hi Steve, I have never used Tein Super Streets (and probably never will) but based on my experience it's not unusual to feel the clicks differently. The first and sometimes second click are actually seating rotations, they don't change the preload on the shim stack. Hence they don't alter the damping. One of our race team cars has Tein N1's (I had no choice) and what I do is set the damping from the highest position downwards. That's fully clockwise on the adjuster until it hits the stop, then count the anticlockwise clicks from there. That avoids the problem of starting from the soft (fully anticlockwise) position where you get minor seating variations that make it hard to accurately count the clicks. Depending on how sensitive your feel is, you can generally pick up on the lack of resistence in the first one or two clicks, that's the lack of full seating. I have confirmed the above on the shock dyno, as I can't afford to confuse the driver with different settings side to side. Cheers Gary

I guess I am the engineer and tester (ie; guinea pig) for what eventually will be an off the shelf solution. Complete package, BO + GTW for half the price. But it needs field (ie; track) testing to prove the results, temperatures, G forces, braking distances etc etc. When I break (no pun intended) down the "Chinese" kits I find that the callipers are worth next to nothing, which confirms the physical observations that tells me they are compromised in design, manufacture and the hardware supplied. Their lifespan is questionable and servicing comparatively costly and sometimes impossible due to long term unavailability of parts. Compared to what is a very decent standard calliper, they have no real advantages and lots of disadvantages. Except bling of course. Cheers Gary

I ran the Stagea with the standard springs and the Bilsteins for several months and it was a nice handling/ride comfort balance. I ran it 3 circlip grooves (24 mm) lower than standard and it had no problems with travel after I trimmed the bump stops. That's 15 mm or so higher than with the Whiteline springs and the circlips in their "standard" position. To my feel it was more comfortable than it was with the standard 100,000 ks old shocks. On them it was floaty and bounced a couple of times after hitting a bump, very uncomfortable. Much more controlled and hence comfortable with the Bilsteins. As I have mentioned previously the problem is not simply one of spring rates, the Whiteline spring rates are only a modest 20% to 25% higher than the standard rates. The issue is the complete suspension system design, R32/33/34 Skylines are designed to be "sporty", not harsh, but not limousine either. Cheers Gary

Check the part numbers stamped on the coils, should be 23175 on the front and 23176 on the rear. Cheers Gary

Get the tape measure out and check it. Should be 350 mm front and 340 mm, rear centre of wheel to guard as usual. Cheers Gary

It's purely dependant on how much anti dive you want to add. On the race cars we use spacers between the front subframe and the radius rod brackets to adjust the anti dive. We use 3 mm spacers stacked depending on how rough the braking area is on the track we are racing at. When it is very rough much over 6 mm gives a bit too much anti dive and hence the front end is not subtle enough to ride the bumps. It's a pretty easy mod, you may have to trim the rear of the radius rod to clear the steering when lock is applied. Cheers Gary

Oh dear, there are a few piles of rubbish in this thread. Having had several GCG Ball Bearing high flows on RB20, RB25 and RB25 Neo engines I can speak from personal experience. A standard RB20 turbo is the same as a standard RB25 turbo in every way except the compressor is slightly smaller on the RB20. This means it develops boost earlier which can be important on the smaller capacity RB20. It all depends on what you want from the engine, an RB20 high flow will develop around 20 rwkw less (250 versus 230) at around 1.3 bar but will develop boost 500 rpm earlier. For $1750 (on the Group Buy) a GCG ball bearing high flow (RB20, RB25 or RB25 NEO) has a brand new Garret duel ball bearing core, new compressor, new shaft, new turbine, new seals and new gaskets. The standard compressor and turbine covers are machined to suite the new (larger) compressor and turbine. Plus the rotating internals are micro balanced. So basically it is a new turbo and carries the appropriate warranty. The big advantage of a high flow is that it looks just like the standard turbo (no defects) and it fits exactly up as per the standard turbo. All the standard fittings, same inlet pipework, same water and oil, same exhaust dump, there is nothing extra to buy or modify. So it's an easy DIY job if you're handy with a few tools. No aftermarket turbo that I have seen is 100% bolt on like a that. An RB20 high flow will make more power than an 2510 or GTSS, and RB25 high flow will make more power than a GT2530 and an RB25 Neo high flow will make more power than a GT2540 based on what I have over the last 9 years. Them's the facts Cheers Gary

The old crappola about Wolfs and injectors, I thought that died with expired engines several years ago. To prove the internals are OK get a leak down test done, any decent mechanic can do that, you don't need to take it to a tuner. Takes less than an hour, costs less than $100 and proves that the internals are OK. As others have pointed out, whether the engine is good or bad is irrelevant when it comes to how much power the standard injectors will support. At 305 rwhp (228rwkw) you are over what I would consider a safe limit for the standard injectors. The is obsolutely no doubt that if you want more power you need bigger injectors, hundreds of R33GTST owners will tell you exactly the same story. Cheers Gary

Mine always had more go at 3,000 rpm than 6,000 rpm, even when standard with 100 rwkw. Removing the 2 stage boost improved the 3,000 rpm performance much more than it did the 6,000 rpm performance. After many mods and double the power output it still pulls a whole lot harder at 3,000 rpm than it does at 6,000 rpm. When does yours develop the 8 psi? It should be 2,000 rpm. If not then you have a restriction somewhere, exhaust perhaps. My next guess would be ignition timing, so my suggestion for that would be to get a timing light and check it. Then check the camshaft timing. After that it is a leak down test to make sure the internals are OK, although if it doesn't use any oil then that is unlikely. Cheers Gary

Use a 10 mm longer bolt and weld 1 x 3mm washer around each of the new holes. Keep in mind that you increase the anti dive by drilling the holes lower down in the brackets (than the standard holes). From memory 10 mm forward is around 1.5 degrees, which is about all you will fit in. An alternative is to redrill the holes in the back of the radius rod, where it bolts to the lower control arm. Just press out the studs and replace them with bolts. Around 15 mm (2.0 degrees) is possible there. Cheers Gary

The ducting (on the R32GTST) and the scoops (on the R33GTST) point at the centre of the rotor, not the inner face. It's not as "nice" a set up as the V8SuperCars, but I did test it with the dyno room fan and smoke trace. I made some small adjustments to make sure as much airflow as possible went to the innermost inlet of the rotor vanes. It's not perfect, but it seems effective. I have tried temperature sensitive paint on the inner and outer edges of the rotors and there is no difference in temperature, well not that the paint can distinguish anyway. Wherever possible I put the race car rotors on one of the road cars for a couple of weeks to make sure any stresses from the manufacturing/machining processes are relieved. I found that method to be effective on the Production Cars back in the early 90's for the 6 hour and 12 hour races. We even ran in a set in driving to Bathurst one year. I don't class a minute or two with a flat file as "machining", it's not like I used the lathe or the mill or even anything electrically powered. Quicker and easier than cleaning your teeth. If someone told me that they weren't capable of that simple a filing job, then I sure as helll wouldn't trust them to bolt on a set of brand new rotors, pads, callipers and braided lines. A test that may be useful, one that I have used many times over the years when picking callipers because I couldn't afford to buy band name race items. Measure across the width of the calliper with a good set of verniers. Stick someone in the car to push on the brake pedal with both feet, engine running if it has a power booster. Then measure the expanded width of the calliper. Some very well known brand names show alarming amounts of calliper spread. As Roy mentioned in a previous post, calliper rigidity is a major determiner of brake feel, which facilitates the drivers ability to modulate the brake pressure and avoid lock up. The best calliper that I have tested, using this method, by far is the AP RadiCalliper on the F3. The problem is spending large sums of money on rigid callipers is pretty much a waste of time if you are leaving the power booster and the ABS. They mask the feel far more than any calliper flex ever will. People are kidding themselves if they think spending $thousands on callipers is going to improve the brake modulation whilever the true weak links in the feel chain, the master cylinder and the ABS, are still in use. Cheers Gary

Sorry, I am not sure that I understand what you are trying to say. On the calliper adaptor, measuring the distance between the inside holes (that bolt to the upright) and the outside holes (that bolt to the calliper) is 30 mm, hole centre to hole centre. So the calliper is moved outwards (from the centre) by 30 mm, since everyone talks about diameter (not radius) that means a 60 mm increase in the rotor dimension. Hence 280 mm to 340 mm. I did have to remove about ~1 mm by ~2 mm of calliper at the outer extremities of the slot to match the radius of the calliper curve to the radius of the rotor curve. But it was no big deal, a few minutes with the flat file. On a quick comparison the R32GTR calliper (296 mm rotor) and the R32GTST calliper (280 mm rotor) have the same slot radius. So on an R32GTST the calliper slot has a larger radius than it really needs for the standard rotor. Did that answer the question? Cheers Gary

The "20 minutes at Wakefield" is consecutive, one driver in, one driver out. No sitting around having a chat for an hour till the next session. We do 4 session back to back, then 30 minutes off, then another 4 sessions. Don't underestimate the effect of the simple scoops on the R33GTST or the full ducting on the R32GTST and I stand by my pad choice, which is the same compound as we used in the 12 Hour. The Wakefield example was exactly that, an example. Would it better if I used Oran Park as an example, we don't get over 550 degrees of rotor temperature there (paint tested). I haven't been to Calder in a while, but it wasn't ever as tough on brakes as Oran Park, ditto Winton and Philip Island. I can't say as we have ever had a brake problem at Sandown and we won the Vic IP Racing championship in the RX7 with tiny brakes by the standards you guys are talking about. Not that it matters, but that particular set of DBA 4000 rotors were free, I didn't pay for them as they were experimental in their slot design and I tested them under race conditions. The wiper slots worked fine, the rotors themselves were just a bit small in diameter for my purposes. I have used DBA stuff for a looooong time, as well as them sponsoring the race series, so I get stuff at the right price plus the occasional test set. Whereas guys who swap brands like their socks don't get the same treatment. Brand loyalty and familiarity has its advantages. If the cooling isn't sorted out, it is easy to can cover up for that deficiency by by sticking on ever larger rotors and/or callipers with more pistons. But all it does is add extra unsprung weight, the cooling problem is still there. By any standards V8 SuperCars have decent sized callipers and rotors, but they still run massive scoops and ducting. There are lessons that all of us can still learn just by observing what the pros are doing. Cheers Gary

I don't know about you but my fill up cost 30 cents a litre LESS last Tuesday than in did on the Tuesday before. Cheers Gary

The calliper adaptors were supposed to be 22 mm offset, but they are actually 30 mm offset. Hence 280 + 60 = 340, not 280 + 44 = 324 as was promoted at the time. I did contemplate 296 + 60 = 356, but the GTST callipers were recently serviced and I didn't have any R32GTR callipers lying around at the time. The DBA 4000 series 280 mm rotors and Bendix Ultimate pads that I sold were only 1 session old. I worked out pretty quickly that they weren't up to it, so I didn't flog them to death. I knew I could sell them afterwards as long as they were in OK condition. DBA sponsors both series that we have cars racing in, so I support them by buying their products and $340 each is the price I paid. The radius difference (140mm versus 170 mm) is too small to have any effect on the curvature of the pads versus the curvature of the rotors. Even if it did, and it doesn't, all I would have to do is trim the centre of the pads a mm or 2 to match the curve. I'll stick up some pictures when the front end is back in the car, it's out at the moment for some new inner lower control arm and steering rack bushes. At the same time I am puting some dry break fittings in the brake hoses for easier maintenance. I make all of our fuel and oil hoses and fittings, have done for many years, never had a failure or a leak. There is no magic in brake hoses, plus it is easy to pressure test them when you have finished. The wheels are the cheap Hollow Type R's in 17 x 8, I need 10 wheels and simply could't afford the cost of exotic forged Japanese ones. I chose them years ago because of their great calliper clearance and mostly the fact that 10 of them cost me less than 3 Volks. How to achieve the 340mm rotors is not my secret to share, but honestly I don't notice any real world difference over the 324 mm ones. If I had my time over I would probably just use the UAS calliper adaptors and 324 mm 5000 series rotors. I have no problem locking the wheels in the R33GTST even after 20 minutes of hot and heavy Wakefield, so, as always, the tyres determin the limit of braking not the brakes themselves. The brakes on the two cars may lack the bling which some people find compulsive, but they do work and that's all that matters to me. Cheers Gary PS; I you are really looking for a proper upgrade in brake callipers, the AP RadiCalliper as found on the race team 2007 Dallara F3 are the way to go.

Should we get into the global warming argument, why not.......my own opinion........it's a crock of shyte invented by a bunch of environmental lobbyists who were out of work. Now they make millions telling people that the world is going to end. All based on ridiculously small samples, flawed logic and erroneous modelling. Back to the topic at hand, the truth is my Stagea puts out less carbon in a year than one of my cousin's cows and he has thousands. Put a cat on it you environmental zealots, leave my Stagea alone. Cheers Gary

Hawke HT10 pads $169 from the US, 300ZX's are popular and so the pads are high volume, low price over there. Brake line material cost $80, plus $20 for the fittings DBA 5000 series rotors were $680 I sold the 280 mm DBA 4000 series rotors for $225 and the Bendix Ultimate pads for $50 Calliper adaptors were $200 on an SAU Group Buy 169+80+20+680-225-50+200 = $874 As for the suspension being better on my car, that's a plus and minus as far as brakes go. It has better traction for stopping so it uses the brakes more, but it has a higher corner speed so it doesn't need to slow down as much. Probably almost balances out in the end. As for weight, with me and enough fuel it comes in just under 1300 kgs, but with 650 bhp it gets to a fairly good top speed that has to be wiped off. I figure that balances out pretty well. In my experience it has been increasing the cornering speed is the best value for money as far as brakes go. In simple terms, spending ~$200 making it go round corners faster will save you ~$400 in buying brakes that you don't really need. I should mention that the daily driver R33GTST has a similar brake package, 324 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, Hawke HPS pads, Nismo braided lines, standard callipers, UAS calliper adaptors and UAS scoops. The brakes survive perfectly with both of us driving it in sequential sessions at Wakefield Park doing 1.10's. It's a full weight R33GTST, so it comes in at over 1500 kgs with driver and fuel. Perhaps even more of an argument for increasing the cornering speed. Cheers Gary PS, as an asside, with the above packages I didn't have to spend hours anguishing over multiple web sites and talking to counter jockies. No waisting head space over whether the rims will clear the callipers. It probably saved me $1K of waisted time that I could spend on more worthwhile things.

230 lbs/inch (4.1kg/mm) If they are rears then they are most likely progressive, like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...61890_thumb.jpg If yours are like that, then you need to tell me how many coils are close together, they are inactive coils. To work out the real spring rate I need to know the number of active coils. Cheers Gary

Camber kit ($183), replaces upper inner control arm bushes and facilitates adjustment of the camber Caster kit ($110), replaces the radius rod bushes and facilitates adjustment of the caster http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Cheers Gary

I simply gave my reasons for that logic, thinking perhaps that he and others hadn't considered the engineering facts. Maybe something was learnt, maybe he or someone else will consider things differently next time. Yes, but once again I simply pointed out that time is never free. Lot's of people don't consider the realities of the alternatives such as overtime or a second job. Time = money, it's a fact. I respect everyone's right to their own opinion and their right to voice it. I don't think I shat all over anything, I simply pointed out the facts. Everybody else was dribbling on about how fantastic it was to put a 500 hp engine into an R32, I simply pointed out that it isn't such a big deal. I did warn about perceived harshness in my first post. What would you prefer, only people with gushing positives post in every thread? Makes for a very boring SAU if there isn't alternative views put forward. For Morten's benefit, I think you are doing a great job, I respect the amount of time and personal effort you able to devote to this project. I can only wish that I had the benefit of such an amount of spare time myself. My comments on the choices of hardware have absolutely nothing to do with your dedication, knowledge or workmanship. Good on you for attempting it, I applaud loudly anyone and everyone who has a go. Some tips; Have a good look at the sump, LS3's have oil surge problems in Corvettes used on the circuit and I am not sure if the sump you are using will suffice for drifting. It will need an oil cooler, oil to air or oil to water. The LS series generates a lot of oil temperature with constant high rpm. Keep the RHS exhaust away from the steering column, boiling power steering fluid is a problem. If you are using rubber engine mounts, make sure you put a heat shield over them, we set fire to the LHS engine mount in the Corvette during testing. In the Tremec gearbox, have you had the synchros upgraded? If not, be carefull with rapid upshifts, they lock in gear often due to over sellection. On the subject of the gearbox, they suffer from overheating oil in a circuit environment, maybe shorter drift events won't be a problem. But it wall pay off to monitor the gearbox oil temperature closely. kunnioittaa Gary

Let's break it down. You wouldn't run the VQ30 without an intercooler would you? Both engines should have an intercoooler, so so surely that's a neutral. Buying components is simple, VQ35 forged pistons and rods are an off the shelf buy in the US, 72 hours for delivery via UPS. The standard bearings and gaskets as just fine. The wiring harness and ECU are very different for a VQ30. So I doubt there is much difference there to piggy backing an ECU for the VQ35. A matching engine number saves a lot of issues. No one knows that a V35 isn't turbo charged standard. The trick is not to get all bling with the installation, keep it stock looking and no one will know, especially a twin turbo install. Building an engine is only complex when you start modifying it, if you just replace the components with like sized ones (albeit forged) then the work is simple and quick. It's only when you start getting into larger bores, longer stroke, oil system upgrades etc etc that it gets tricky. With all the components ready to go, I could upgrade VQ35 internals for 800 bhp in under a day. I am lucky in that I know how ot build and engine, but even if you paid a decent machine shop to do the assembly for you, it wouldn't amount to anywhere near a $1K. The HKS twin turbo kit bolts up to the standard VQ35 cats and exhaust, a VQ30 installation, being single turbo, doesn't. There's advantages both ways, but a VQ35 twin turbo with forged internals is always going to be a better way to go long term than a standard VQ30 standsrd single turbo with it's unique flanges. Cheers Gary