Sydneykid

I don't think you would be "right down the back of the grid" with a sensible (for racing) budget spent on an R32GTR. It's when you want to win, that the cost gets all out of proportion. MrB has the #2 BSM car for sale for ~$60K and it would run top 5 in NSW at the 3 tracks and top 3 anywhere else in the country. If it rains, it's a guaranteed winner. I don't think $60K is outrageous, it would cost about that to get an RX7 into the top 5 and way more than that for a V8 (Foulcan or Commondoor). But if you want to go from top 5 to winning, then you would more than double that cost. Cheers Gary PS, it was on a 46.8 on the last lap but got baulked by a lapped car. Needs to do 45's at the Nationals and the "A" driver will be in it for that.

For street tyres? Around 275 to 300 lbs/inch front (5.5 kg/mm) and 225 to 250 lbs/inch rear (4.0 kg/mm) Doen a couple of Yamahas (Ohlins) with those rates and its a big improvement. Not perfect, but worthwhile doing. Cheers Gary

The problem I have is WHY CARS? Where's the luxury boat tax, or the luxury horse tax, or the luxury house tax and for the girls the luxury handbag tax or the luxury shoe tax? Us drivers MUST be the most heavily taxed people in the country, fuel excise, speed camera tax, rego, GST, red light camera tax, parking meter tax, fringe benefits tax.........once you own a car, some government department always has their hands in your wallet. Personally I am totally sick of being discriminated against just because I drive a car. No Cheers for this subject Gary

Closing circuits is part of Cokrun's master plan to have a monopoly for V8SuperCars. No circuits = no other categories of motorsport to compete for the almighty advertising and TV dollars. No other places for spectators to go, you want to watch circuit racing then you have no choice, it's V8SuperCars or nothing. It's the same reason he wanted to take over the Indy Car event on the Gold Coast, deprive QIR of its major money maker for the year and remove Indy Cars as a competitor for TV time. There is nothing good in this for motorsport competitors or fans, it's all bad news. Especially since it will kill off any chance of a replacement for Oran Park. Cheers Gary

Reading about GTR sumps................does anyone want a Gibson baffled and winged sump? No longer used on the BSM GTR due to dry sumping for Sports Sedans. Has external fittings, head drain back etc, pick up, all the good stuff for a 100% reliable circuit GTR wet sump. I'll pop over to the For Sales section and post it up tommorow. Cheers Gary

Geoffs GTR was in 2wd for the trophy race as it broke a front driveshaft earlier, there's an entertaining video on the IPRA forum. Yes Dunk, we did win the trophy race, with 4 of us working flat out for 2 days on getting the new thing up to at least a reasonable speed (47's) Cheers Gary

With over 40 x RB30's built since 1999, I would always use ARP (RB26) head studs. Cheers Gary

The usual question (for both of you)...what is the ride height? It's a vital piece of information as the camber is affected by high low the car is. So get your tape measure out and measure the height, centre of wheel to guard verically is the suspension industry standard measurement. Armed with that information it is realtively easy to tell what you need. Cheers Gary

365lb/inch (6.5 kg/mm) That Bilstein part number is for a rear shock for an R33GTR If that's the rear spring rate then it's too high for a track car on "R" type tyres, let alone a road car. It's an OK rate for a front spring on a track car, but a little high for a road car. Cheers Gary

What do you use the car for? What tyres are you using (street , "R" type, Slicks)? Ducting? What wheels? If racing, the length of the races? This is important to know, because the main advantages of 2 piece fully floating rotors is heat related. If you are doing only street driving then you won't get the rotors surfaces hot enough to need low heat transfer rates or reduce the heat differential. The big advantage of a fully floating rotor is that it allows the rotor to move to the centre of the pads. This is important when one of the pads (usually the inner) wears out faster than the other. This is caused by heat differential, the outer pads gets cooled a bit more as the wheel rotates. If there is a lack of ducting, the more open the wheel the more the temperature differential. If the rotor doesn't float, then the thicker pad (usually the outer) touches the rotor first and puts side load onto it before the thinner pad (usually the inner) contacts the rotors, this obviously creates stress if the rotor doesn't float enough (at all) which leads to premature cracking. The AP strap drive is an example of a fully floating rotor design. As well as the above, the straps have the added advantage of reducing the heat transfer to the inner half of the rotor and hence the hub. This lowers the heat in the hub, wheel bearing and drive shaft (CV joint) thus extending their life in long distance races where heat build up occurs over a long period of time. There are other designs that utilise insulators around the bolts which limit the heat transfer and allow the rotor to float. I have used most of the designs (Brembo, AP, Outlaw, DBA, Willwood, Alcon etc) and I can't really say that any one floating design is better than another in all circumstances. If you have decent ducting and run shorter distance races (1/2 hour or so), then I wouldn't be overely concerned with an all out fully floating rotor. It's would simply be a waste of money, unless the bragging rights and/or bling are important factors in the choice. Tip, spend the money on increasing the corner speed and you won't need to go overboard on the brakes. Cheers Gary

First job, read the numbers embossed into the Bilsteins, around the shock body, down near the lower mount. Should be something like B46------ Second job, read the following thread, measure the main springs and I will work out the spring rates for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Cheers Gary

I stopped using the SuperPro rear camber kits some years ago for this exact same reason, they squeek. The Whiteline Plus kits that I now use have knurling on the inside of the bush to retain grease, plus they are on car adjustable, which makes wheel aligning so much quicker/easier/cheaper. Unfortunately whatever cost saving there was on the SuperPro kit will quickly be swamped by the cost of constant regreasing plus the higher cost of wheel alignment. In this case you very much get what you paid for. Cheers Gary

Revised list; nisskid whitegtst robbieraver beer baron to DIRTgarage cameronbnr32 Duncan cam rthirty2gtr jonn That's 9, so 16 more to go. Cheers Gary

When they were available from Noltec they were $539 for the pair. The Group Buy price will be $399 including delivery. Cheers Gary

It is a 4 speed auto, the button simply stops it from shifting into 4th. It also stops, rather it delays (for a long time), the torque converter lock up, so you get slip. You also have the option of only using 1st and 2nd via the selector. Plus by selecting snow mode you eliminate 1st and it starts in 2nd. Overall a very useful auto gearbox, especially when coupled with the best 4wd system. As for using less fuel in 3rd gear, not based on what I have seen in the injector duty cycle. Which after all is a far more accurate method of determining fuel economy than looking at a boost guage. Cheers Gary

All the Stageas I have tried have been 3% to 5% optimistic in their speedo readings .eg; speedo reads 100 kph, actually doing 95 kph When the tyres wear, the tread depth reduces, the overall diameter decreases and the error can be as much as 5% more. eg; speedo reads 100 kph, actually doing 90 kph. Larger diameter tyres reduce the error, so I aim for 4% larger diameter tyres than standard to reduce the speedo error. It's not as easy as it sounds, since every tyre manufacturer seems to have a different idea of what size a tyre is. eg; In Yokohama A032 a 235/40/17 is 239 mm wide and a 245/45/17 is 242 mm wide, so a supposed 10 mm wider tyre is actually only 3 mm wider. Obviously this affects the profile height by the same ratio. So it always pays to check the manufacturers actual diameter and not rely on mathematics. Like a GTR and a GTS4, the 4wd Stageas MUST have the same diameter tyres front and rear, otherwise you will get severe transmission shudder and extreme ATTESA clutch pack wear. Cheers Gary

Nobody that I know services Yamaha badged Ohlins. No spare parts are supplied by Yamaha and the Australian Ohlins agent won't touch them, they only have manuals and parts for the Swedish made Ohlins. Cheers Gary

I have been speaking to the various component suppliers and we have agreed a delivery date of Monday 3rd November. That will means deliveries will start from Tuesday 4th November. They will progress in the order in which payment is received either transfer to the Superior Suspension Pty Ltd bank account or by credit card, call me at work on 02 9603 0100 for details. I have pencilled in the following guys; nisskid whitegtst psymon robbieraver beer baron cameronbnr32 Duncan cam rthirty2gtr bnr#@ jonn Cheers Gary

I see this every day, guys wanting to get into drifting and falling for the same old urban myths that say a car has to be rock hard to handle well, it's rubbish always has been, always will be. Lots of new guys quickly fall out of drifting because they set the car up all wrong and then lose interest because they think its them, that they simply can't drive. When in reality it's a bad set up that makes it next to impossible for anyone, no matter how skillfull/experienced to control the car's attitude properly. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

340 lbs/inch (6.1kg/mm) Cheers Gary

Hi Shaun, are you sure that they don't have any cuts in them? We received 4 sets that same day and I picked one out at random and the 2 small bushes both have cuts. They were impossible to see, but a quick twist and I could find them. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

Rear control arm and rear traction arm. S13 is the same as R32 S14 and S15 are the same as R33 and R34. Cheers Gary

As usual, it depends on how much you lower it, the recommended 340 mm at the rear is OK for bump steer with the standard arms, provided you do the camber adjustment on both arms (upper control arm and traction arm) in tandem. If you go much lower than 340 mm then you need to play with the length of both arms to achieve the desired camber without creating excessive bump steer. For example an R32 at 325 mm has more than 6 mm of toe change (bump steer) over the 75 mm of required suspension travel. Static toe is corrected by the adjusting the length of the steering arms, that does nothing to correct the bump steer. Cheers Gary