Sydneykid

225 lbs /inch (4.0 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

620 lbs /inch (11.0 kg/mm) Best you get friendly with your local chiropractor! Cheers Gary

?????????? Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

Nice rates Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

315 lbs/inch (5.6 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

Centeline Cheers Gary

165 lbs/inch (3 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

Motorcycle spring, 25 lbs/inch Cheers Gary

You will need a set (of 6) alloy injector collars to fit top feed injectors to the Greddy/copy inlet manifold, check out the "for sale" section of this forum, there is a guy who sells them for a reasonable cost. Modifying Rochester injector plugs is easy, just trim off a couple of tabs with a Stanley knife and the Nissan plugs fit straight on. I have a picture somewhere, if I can find it I will post it up. I have a set of 1000 cc Rochesters in the RB31DET, for $77 each I didn't mind spending a couple of minutes each trimming the plugs. RB20's come with top feed injectors standard. Cheers Gary

At the very least I always match port the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the head, the reality is some are just plain terrible. Especially when you have an unknown origin inlet and are sticking it on an unknown cylinder head. An aftermarket exhaust manifold can be worse, they rarely line up perfectly. I have yet to find a used RB26 head that hasn't got at least some bent exhaust valves, it's so easy to touch them on the block when removing that long and heavy cylinder head. It's well known that RB's have mismatched valve sizes, the exhaust valves are simply too small in comparison to the inlet valves. So increasing the size of all of the exhaust valves when replacing the bent ones is a worthwhile progression. Even as little as 0.5 mm larger exhaust valves makes a difference. The use of longer duration exhaust cams (than inlet cams) is a way of masking the too small exhaust valves. Much better to attack the real disease and fix the mismatch in valve sizes. Keep in mind that boost is simply a measure of resistence to airflow, so if you are after a big boost bragging number from your engine then don't bother porting it. Air flow is what makes horsepower, not boost. Porting it will simply allow the same airflow, hence horsepower, at lower boost or more airflow, hence hosepower, at the same boost. I don't subscribe to the " no porting until X bhp" theory. Let's face it, if you want more than X bhp then get a bigger turbo and turn up the boost. No matter how bad the ports are, there is always a larger turbo available to pump the air through them. To me what is more relevant with porting is how much response you want, if you don't mind a bit of lag then don't bother getting carried away with porting. If you want/need a responsive engine then making the same power at lower boost is a big advantage. With lower boost you can use more ignition advance, run lower inlet air temps, leaner A/F ratios, higher static compression, tune safer in a smaller window, etc. In summary, porting is more relevant to response not horsepower. Cheers Gary

Yep 28 mm, that qualifies as' Cheers Gary

I jack up the cold start enrichment by around 25% at -10C and +10C, then 15% at +30C and finally 10% at +50C. I leave 80C alone, although some guys have found adding 5% works OK there as well. You might want to have a look at the cranking time, it depends on your injector speed and type. Have a play, you can't hurt anything, after all E85 doesn't contaminate the oil like petrol. Cheers Gary

My 20 cents; Your oil temp gauge isn't working properly, refer Duncan's comments above, so fix or replace is the answer. I have never seen the need for an oil cooler thermostat in Australia, it quite simply doesn't get cold enough in all but a couple of places. Overfilling the sump is related to oil surge, but the real reason for it is to compensate for the oil that stays in the cam covers when high rpm is used for sustained periods. The fluctuations you see in oil pressure could be oil starvation around the pick up as so much is trapped in the cam covers, they hold well over 2 litres. The larger the diameter of the restrictor hole the more oil goes up to the cam covers, a higher flow oil pump just makes that situation worse. I assume that it has the standard GTR one oil feed to the head blocked off and it has a Tomei restrictor in the other. I have seen RB26's with 2 restictors, which is not correct. The standard poor oil returtn to the sump is a well know RB problem, that's why the serious track guys run external oil returns and enlarged oil return passages to the sump. Or dry sump with a scavenge stage for the cam covers. The one way doors stop the oil from flowing to the dip stick, that's why you can't check the oil level immediately after shutting down the engine. So don't let it worry you. Maybe 25 cents worth. Cheers Gary

R&R, stands for rich and retard. Nissan programmed the engine mapping so that when the standard airflow pattern is exceeded by much then the ECU dumps in more fuel and retards the ignition timing. This is to protect the engine as the only reason for higher than normal airflow is something is wrong or someone has fiddled with the engine, either way Nissan has taken steps to protect the engine from damage. Sticking on a high flow turbo is most definitely fiddling with the engine so, without tuning, you can expect piss poor fuel economy, oil contaminated with fuel and an incurrable misfire from the retarded ignition timing. There is plenty written on the subject of R&R, a lot of it by me, so I strongly suggest that you try a search. Cheers Gary

The first RB30DET I ever built used an R32 RB25DE cylinder head, shoot that was over 10 years ago, I feel old. It is the best low cost head you can use on the RB30, with no VVT to confuse the issue, it's a straight bolt on. The reality is there is no need for a separate thread, it's so simple. You can use the RB30 guide, just ignore the bits about modifying for the VVT, you don't have to worry about that. So you can use an RB30 or RB26 head gasket. Everything else, pulley positioning, head bolts etc is the same. Cheers Gary

I was faced with the same problem on the R33GTST when I had the 450 bhp target on pump 98, the rediculous cost of straight swap injectors made me search for another answer. The best solutiion I could come up with was a GReddy copy inlet manifold, a set of GTR top feed injectors and a GTR fuel rail with a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator to push the injectors the fraction more necessary (440 to 450 bhp). Since I already had a set of standard GTR injectors and a fuel rail, the only cost was $400 for the manifold and FPR plus making up a resistor pack was no big deal for me. That's not actually what the car has, due to the availability of E85 I decided the GTR injectors weren't going to be big enough, so I used 550 cc injectors (13B turbo) which are high impedance so I didn't need to use the resistor pack. Waste not want not, I used the resistor pack on the R32GTST with its 1000 cc Rochester injectors as they are low impedance. Cheers Gary

The engine mounts have tabs as well as studs. If you install them in the wrong side, the tab stops the stud dropping down the slot in the subframe and that raises the engine. Maybe you just have the RHS engine mount around the wrong way and that is kicking up that side of the engine. You can see the slots, tabs and studs from underneath, so it's easy to check. Cheers Gary

I couldn't stay away any longer, so many guys kept asked me to come back and dump or your brake fetish Cheers Gary

front lower arms - no, the outer ball joint is different tie bars - what are tie bars? If you mean radius rods, then no, 4WD and 2WD radius rods are different. rear lower - never tried it, check that the outer ball joint is the same. upper arms - yes, both upper control arms and traction rods are the same Cheers Gary

Did you align it after fiting the kit? The toe changes massively. Cheers Gary

Have you checked the bump steer? Ackerman? Cheers Gary

This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits 320mm.......good luck getting it to stop, accellerate, handle and not wear out tyres prematurely. Cheers Gary