Sydneykid

I refuse to get into a debate about how good or how bad a particular tuner is, it serves no purpose, and everyone has an opinion. Some even have good reasons for their opinions. So, as far as the following is concerned, it wouldn't matter who tuned it, so XXXX it is Starting is one thing but how does it run when its cold? Tried it at Bathurst altitude, at 4 in the morning at -5 degrees? How about Hidden Valley race track in Darwin at 45+ degrees? Handle power steering, air con and electrical load? How's the fuel economy? Are you sure it's as good as it should be? As a result carrying excess weight in fuel for the race? Or too many pit stops? Sticking a car on the chasis dyno for power run or two then saying it is tuned is niave in the extreme, it's less than 10% of what tuning really is. Cheers Gary

Maybe your not as fussy as me, I like my road cars to drive perfectly when cold, winter, summer, desert or snow. Anything less than perfection annoys the hell out of me and I avoid driving the thing. Even with race cars these days I hate ugly running anytime, I'd much rather spend the time getting it right. Running Ethanol just demands that much more time be spent on the overall tune, tuning for power is quick, tuning for niceness takes a lot longer and you can't do it on the dyno. Cheers Gary

Depends on what compression ratio it was built with how good the starter motor is and how much grunt the battery has. That's why a leak down test is always better and in your case warrented by the 20 psi difference (130 - 110). Cheers Gary

How does he tune the cold start and run when the engine isn't cold? Cheers Gary

Whiteline swaybars come with everything necessary to fit them to the car included in the fitting kit. In the case of an R32GTR that means D bushes only for the front as the standard ball jointed links work OK with the adjustment holes. The rear swaybar fitting kit has links as well as D bushes as the standard "I" links don't allow adjustment Unlike Subarus which have weak standard links, R32/33/34 front swaybar links are pretty tough, so no need for a heavy duty link kit. On the race cars we use adjustable length spherical bearing links to faciliate corner weighting, but never reccommend using sphericals on a road car. You will be OK with the off the shelf 22/24 swaybar diameters, there is plenty enough adjustment to tune the handling. Cheers Gary

3 days to properly tune the cold start and run, sounds about right. After all you can only do it when the engine is stone cold, so you really only get one chance per day. Cheers Gary

The same as the standard cams Yes Cheers Gary

and there is the cause of your traction problem. Cheers Gary

You shouldn't be using excessive spring rates to control the roll, that's the job of the anti roll bars. Excessive spring rates simply limit the traction under braking and acceleration. Whereas the anti roll is only there when you need it, under cornering. Adjustable swaybars would always be my recommendation as quite simply they are the best way to tune handling balance. That's why race cars have driver adjustable swaybars. Adjusting an externally adjustable swaybar is far easier than changing spring rates to tune the handling balance Cheers Gary

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html Cheers Gary

I would add that, for circuit work, we spend a decent proportion of the lap (eg; around 14% at Oran Park) with the throttle completely closed. There would be zero blowby for that time, so any excess oil will more easily drain from the head to the sump as it isn't fighting positive crankcase pressure. So for around 3 minutes of a 20 minute race we have negative crankcase pressure plus the partial vacuum created by the crank swing on the LHS of the engine. But even then, without the external head to sump drain, we still get a build up of oil in the cam covers. Add the drain and the problem dissappears, that's been the real world experience for over 10 years in at least 14 x RB engined cars that I can recall. Cheers Gary

China? Korea more like it and most of the Skyline part numbers are still made locally as there isn't enough volume to justify the lead times from Korea. Cheers Gary

Similar shape, the Brembo pad is slightly, very slightly, bigger. Cheers Gary

R34 GT (2 Door) = Eye Eye R34 GT (4 Door) = Eye Eye R34 GT-t (2-Door) = Eye Fork R34 GT-t (4-Door) = Eye Fork R34GTS4 (2 door) = Eye Eye R34GTS4 (4 door) = Eye Eye R34GTR (2 door) = Eye Fork The spring and damper rates are different for 2 doors and 4 doors, as they should be. The 4wd's have shorter front shocks to fit the driveshafts in. Cheers Gary

In your location, 22mm front and 24mm rear Whiteline adjustable swaybars are most likely the go. But there is some cross over with anti roll and spring rates, so to be precise what spring rates are you running? Cheers Gary

I should mention that, on my own circuit car. as well as the rear, external, oil return to the sump, I do have a vent hose from the dip stick tube to the catch can. That's a supplement to the usual cam cover breathers of course. I agree wiht Michael, dry sump is the ultimate answer, if you have the budget. It's a win win, you get far superior oil control plus more power at the same time. Cheers Gary

As much as I hate quoting Martin Donnon, from HPI Issue 106 (ie; earlier this year), page 82....... So let's go back to my original post from 2006 and compare; Standard oil pump flows too much = Tick N1 oil pump even more so = Tick Restrictor to limit the flow = Tick Oil build up in the cylinder head = Tick Oil return system required = Tick The fact that other forums don't deal with it just means that SAU is ahead of the game as far as Skylines are concerned, as it has always been. Cheers Gary

I'll leave out the personal stuff as much as I can because it adds nothing to the discussion Not true, Circuit work is my thing, everyone knows it, so as well as longitudinal G force I have to contend with lateral as well. With just one race representing more revolutions of the crankshaft than a drag engine does in a year. Not sure what that proves other than there is a difference. So it is your belief that there is insufficient pressure in the sump to lift the dip stick. That's not a lot of pressure. If there isn';t enough pressure ot lift the dip stick then there isn't enough to worry about an external vent. I have also been testing, probablty since before you were born and this year is my 11th year with circuit RB's. That's a lot of hours of testing. Cheers Gary

Depends on how much fuel pressure you are running. Cheers Gary

Let's work on this, one bit at a time; Keep in mind #1 rule 1. The drain into the sump must be above the oil level at all times The only way oil (not air) can flow up the tube is if it is below the instantaneous oil level. Is it not possible that the oil is actually flowing down from the head but not returning to the sump because the drain is above the oil level at that particular time? If there is enough pressure to force oil up a dash 10 sized hose then there is more than enough pressure to push out the dipstick. How's your dipstick? Still in place? Cheers Gary

Since Redranger bought Noltec they are now available in what they call the Whiteline Plus range. Cheers Gary

Hi Damo, I just used the RB25DE standard cams with adj pulleys. It had plenty of power in 1999, ~400 rwhp, from daggy a T04E that we had lying around. Had to keep the cost down, the whole RB30/25DE cost less than $1200. Cheers Gary

I have always redrilled the holes in the engine mount where it bolts to the block, around 8 mm from memory. That's about all I could get with a 4wd sump adaptor and a larger sump. I simply lowered the engine on the jack until it touched the subframe, up a little bit, then mark the engine mounts accordingly. Let's face it drive shaft angles suffer much worse when you lower the car 40 mm and that affects both front and rear, in comparison 8 mm at the front only is no big deal. Cheers Gary

Width and diameter, the 4wd radius rod bushes are substantially wider. Cheers Gary

Oh goody, a worthwhile discussion. The best thing about this particular topic is that there is no right or wrong, it's quite simply not black and white. The external rear of head oil drain will also work as a sump depressorisation route depending on the circumstances at the time. Before we get into the why and wherefores, there are few basic rules I always follow; 1. The drain into the sump must be above the oil level at all times 2. The drain into the sump must be on the LHS of the engine so that the partial vacuum from the crank swing is used to help gravity 3. The drain must be dash 10 or larger 4. The drain must have its own route into the sump, for example I would never ever link it up with a turbo oil return 5. The relevant restrictors must be fitted to the block, different combinations of oil pumps and restrictor sizes will give different results. 6. The engine is built and maintained sufficiently well enough that there isn't excessive blow by. Keeping the above in mind. There is plenty of evidence to prove that oil will and does flow down the drain to the sump under acceleration. There is an equally large body of evidence that shows the cam covers will fill up with oil if there is no external rear of head oil drain. This is especially evident when the partial vacuum from the crank swing is used to help gravity pull the oil down into the sump. Want to test the oil return? Simply unscrew the return line next time you are filling the engine up with oil and watch how much oil flows through it. Then, let's explore the alternatives, that being positive crankcase pressure being relieved.. If there is that much pressure needing to be relieved why is it that the dipstick doesn't get blasted out of its tube? Want to test it? How about removing the dipstick and venting the tube into the catch can. That's a fairly easy modification, allows a large quantity of air to vent. Surely much more efficient than a sump back into head vent where the outlet is submersed in oil under acceleration. Think about it, if that is in fact acting as a sump vent, then it would be highly aerating the oil in the cam covers. Then pumping it out of the cam cover vents, which is hardly a good idea. Obviously much worse just when you don't want it, when the engine is under acceleration and a larger quantity of oil than usual is forced to the rear of the head (ie; high rpm and G forces). So, a quick summary, using the head to sump connection to relieve excessive crankcase pressure is not a good idea as it would force air through the oil in the cam covers. That's why I use it for the superior solution as a supplementary oil return direct to the sump. If you need to vent the sump because you engine is badly built and/or badly maintained then using the dipstick tube is a much smarter alternative. Simply pop the hose off and insert the dipstick to check the oil level as required.. Cheers Gary