Sydneykid

I don't know what the limit is, all I know is it's OK at 320 rwkw. The best way to find out is to measure it, that's what I did after a lot of people said 265 rwkw was the limit of the standard throttle body. My best suggestion is to get your 360 rwkw and then measure the boost before and after the throttle body, it's pretty simple. Only takes a couple of minutes to check, then you will know for sure. Cheers Gary

At 315 rwkw I measured the boost before and after the standard throttle body and there was zero difference. So the standard throttle body wasn't a restriction at that power level. There are better, more effective, ways to spend your money for that power target. Cheers Gary

Watch out for the water pump, those universal ones can leak past the bolt from the slotted hole. Cheers Gary

Yes, but I wouldn't drive anywhere with them on, other than from the pits to the track. I actually got the last set from an SAU Group Buy, try a search. It's in the Group Buy thread 255 x 16's Yep A full on drag slick would be better, but that involves ANDRA regs, front runners etc. A radial is much easier for us as we are not seriously into drag racing these days. Cheers Gary

We ran an 11.4 at 129 mph on standard drivetrain (+ Exedy clutch) in an R34GTT, so there is plenty of capacity in the standard stuff. Then you might find that you have to service the components, for example new standard drive shafts are better than the well used ones that you have now. If you start breaking new stuff, which is unlikely at your power levels, then you will need to look at upgrading. I haven't seen a lot of specific R34GTT drive train upgraded components. Personally I would go to a complete R34GTR rear end, subframe, diff, driveshafts, the lot. If you start breaking that stuff then you have an upgrade path with off the shelf stuff available. Gearbox wise, if you are serious about drag racing then an auto is the only way to go, for around $3K they are impossible to beat value for money. If you aren't serious about drag racing, then a closs ratio synchro gearset is the first step, Trust have them amongst others. Then it's a close ratio dog selector internals from PPG ($9K) or Hollinger ($16K). The top level is then a sequentlial close ratio dog selector gearbox from Hollinger for a shade under $20K. My suggestion, get the suspension sorted, buy some drag specific tyres (I use MT radials) and get out and have a go. Cheers Gary

Try Bell Garage for the Buddy Club nuts, we used a set at Eastern Creek and they were superior to the other brands we have use previously. Consistent torque, no wheel damage, small OD and no signs of stress. Cheers Gary

Spring rate = 550 lbs/inch (10 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

I had the opportunity to look at a set of these last week and I was surprised at how small the mounting hardware is. Grossly undersized in my opinion, flex just waiting to happen. Bolts coming loose is a telling symptom of that problem. Cheers Gary

In regard to setting up a 2wd drag Skyline, I posted this recently (that's why the Search button is so handly); You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must. Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag. In a general sense the average Japanese aftermarket coil over kits are not suitable for drag racing and the standard suspension is better. But (there is always a "but") the problem with the rear standard shocks is that they don't have anywhere near enough rebound damping. That's when they are new, let alone 15 or so years old. So you get bad axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts. The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo. That should be enough to get you thinking in the right direction Cheers Gary

Nope, actually the reverse due to the following. Nope, a GTR is much more front weight biased (~180kgs) plus RHS weight biased due to the 4wd hardware. Add the driver to the RHS and they are quite difficult to balance, front to rear and left to right. The single advantage of a GTR is traction from the 4wd. That can manifest itself in a faster single lap time if the 4wd is needed for the power level. Or, a faster full race distance due to better use of the tyres, particularly rears. Cheers Gary

Nope the stroke is 2 mm longer in the RB26 than the RB25, that's where the extra 70 cc's comes from. RB25 and RB26 rods are the same length, so you would need to use RB26 pistons. Make sure the RB26 crank is a alte model one with the wide (not narrow) flange oil pump drive. Cheers Gary

Looks like it. I have tried the usual RB26 pump that we use on R26's and it doesn't fit. I have tried the hybrid RB26/RB30 pump that we use on RB30's and it doesn't fit Obviously an N1 pump didn't fit either, not that I would have used one anyway I have also tried a S1 RB25 pump and it doesn't fit I have even tried an RB20 pump and it doesn't fit The only other pump I haven't tried is a S2 RB25 and I don't have one of those. Cheers Gary

I have the vin number and engine number, no problems there. I was hoping that someone may have struck this problem before and has experience in ordering the right part number. Cheers Gary

I have run into a problem that I haven't struck before, that maybe someone else has. It's an R33GTST S1.5 and it has a different bolt pattern (1 bolt only) to the previous water pumps I have used. I have tried 5 different water pumps (RB25, RB26, RB30 and aftermarket) and none of them fit. So I am going to order a genuine water pump from Nissan, but it is always easier if you have the part number. So has anybody struck this problem before? Cheers Gary

Whether or not it's high mount is irrelevant, the plumbing is the same. Cheers Gary

I don't think that Spool rods are cheap, just that most others are overpriced because of the brand name stickers on them. Cheers Gary

Just because we don't live in the ideal world, doesn't mean that we can't dream about it. Cheers Gary

I have used around 5 sets of Spool rods in various engines with not one problem. Cheers Gary

Two words, water jacket. Cheers Gary

The turbo water feed doesn't come from the manifold. The feed is off the back of the block with the heater connections and the returbn is off the back of the thermostat housing. Cheers Gary

The track is faster in the morning at pretty much every track that I visit, but you have to be ready to take advantage of it. That means the car AND the driver. If the car has a tank fulll of fuel, the set up isn't right and the driver is still learning the track then they are missing out on the fastest track time of the day. The exceptions are when it rains in the morning, which is like everytime I have been to Wakefield lately and when it is a temporary circuit and it is faster as the rubber gets down. Cheers Gary

Geoff covered it pretty well, I would add that I saw a Honda drag car make 750 bhp using 2" intercooler pipework last year when I was in the US. It had a long run with an ice box in the passenger footwell, so they kept the pipe volume down as much possible without affecting the power output. Cheers Gary

You don't need a dial gauge, you can use feeler gauges to check run out. Cheers Gary

Usually the brand name and/or manufacrturers names is punched into the shock body down near the lower mounting. Cheers Gary

The second plug is usually for the auto. How much power are you targetting? I haven't found the standard throttle body to be a restriction at 320 rwkw. Cheers Gary