Sydneykid

Why don't you guys try a search, "Sydneykid" and "HICAS", you will find everything you need to know. Plus the FAQ's have lots of practicle info; The R33 one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HI...ml&hl=HICAS The R32 one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ml&hl=HICAS Cheers Gary

Nope, no effect on how the bar works. The rear bar can rub on cars that are very low, what is the ride height on yours? As many of you know I have an R32GTST myself, it's a 1990 model M Spec and the master we use to make the swaybars is identical in shape to the OE bar I took of it when I upgraded. As a race car it is about as low as possible whilst retaining decent suspension geometry and it has a 90 mm GReddy titanium exhaust. So if the swaybar fits it, it should fit any R32GTST with the same subframe. Nissan seems to have been in the habit of using a few different rear subframes in R32GTST's and/or lots of cars have had their subframes swapped before they made it to Australia. The most common I have seen so far is the R32GTS4 rear subframe. Anyway back to fixing DjeMz's problem, the OE bar in the picture looks like an R32GTS4 rear bar. If you PM me your address I will send you a Selbys SNR35A (in 22mm) to try. If it fits OK simply put the SNR26A in the box (that the SNR35A came in) and I will arrange for it to be returned. Cheers Gary

Pistons yes, rods no, they are too short. Cheers gary

Good luck finding hollow + adjustable swaybars and if you do ever find them brand new count on paying around $1k each. I have specified a number of swaybars for Cefiro drift cars and the amount of anti roll depends on what spring and shocks rates they are running. The range is 26, 27 and 30 mm for the front and 24 or 26 mm for the rear. Keeping in mind that a bladed and adjustable means that a 26 mm bar has an adjustment range equivalent to 27 mm to 29 mm, so you can't simply compare the diameter and judge the anti roll rate. PM me if you want some more detailed data. Cheers Gary

It's actually pretty simple, pull the RB20DET out of the GTS4 and remove the sump. Swap all the sensors over from the RB20DET to the RB25DET and your current ECU will run it just fine, no VVT of course. Buy a 4wd sump adaptor from ProEngines (they are the best design so far by far) and bolt it to the RB25DET block and then bolt the RB20DET sump to the adaptor, put the engine back in the GTS4. A one day job for 3 people if you know what you are doing. Cheers Gary

The black standard bar in the picture doesn't look like a normal R32GTST rear bar. Have you changed the subframe in your car? We had another one recently where it had a different (than normal) subframe. The owner was convinced it hadn't had a subframe change, but it was certainly not a normal R32GTST subframe. Maybe Nissan up to their random spare parts bin tricks. From memory we sent him an R32GTR rear swaybar and it fitted up OK, I will check when I get to work on Monday and let you know. Cheers Gary

If you measure the coils I will work out the spring rates, this thread tells you how; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Cheers Gary

NVH = Noise, Vibration & Harshness Cheers Gary

The power up kit I currently favour is this one as seen as SEMA 2007 ; The indicated price at SEMA was $US6K to $US7K, Nengun now has them for $A5,000 to $A6,000 delivered. It fits the range of HKS turbos GTSS, GT2530Kai and GTRS, I am thinking the GTRS's as the 3.5 litre will have no problem spooling them up. The GTRS's are a pretty good fit for an RB30DETT, so the extra 0.5 litre should make them quite responsive. They are capable of more power than my standard internals target, but I can run low boost and still make around 300 rwkw, which would be nice. Then I have the airflow for higher power if I upgrade the internals, which are getting cheaper by the day in the US. I like the flexibility this kit allows, even though it is specified for a right hand drive Z33, the parts in the kit are not chassis specific. It has its own dumps so then I can use whatever exhaust system I find from there back to suite the V35. I prefer the twin pass intercooler layout from PWR. All I need to do is design the alloy intercooler pipework from the HKS compressor oulet pipes to the intercooler. As for cooling I was looking at this style of front bumper; Cheers Gary

You obviously hang with a different crowd, I live in the Suspension and Motorsport sections mostly. Cheers Gary

That doesn't like like one of ours, ie; not a Selbys Swaybar, it looks like a Signature swaybar. Where did you buy it from? Cheers Gary

No RB30's that I have ever seen have block mounted oil squirters, that's Commodore RB30E, Commodore RB30ET, Nissan Skyline RB30, Series 1 or Series 2. They all have the basic 1980's style conrod oil holes. Any good block is a good block to use. Cheers Gary

Porsche just bought VW and their dual clutch manual works pretty well. Cheers Gary

But that makes them go faster, downgrading the gearbox would make it go slower. Even the Yanks aren't that dumb Cheers Gary

It's not a regular auto, in fact it's not an auto all. It doesn't have bands and clutch packs, no torque converter, they are heavy stuff that makes an auto weigh more. It is a manual gearbox with 2 clutches and a few solenoids, that's it. So the only real extra weight is the extra clutch itself, there's no extra flywheel. A small diameter clutch like that doesn't weigh even 10 kgs, not even close. Cheers Gary

I still don't think so. If you rip both ends off, you are going to needs lots of stuff that a bare shell doesn't have, bumpers, guards, lights, wiring, coolers, radiator, bonnet, boot etc etc. Stuff that will cost you both time and money to find. Stuff that you get if you buy a complete car to part out. Cheers Gary

I can't see any value more than than a grand or two for it, including the grand freight. I'll stick by what said, buying a complete R34GTR, using the shell only and then selling off all the road car bits that you don't need would be cheaper. What would also be cheaper is buying a half cut (the half that you damage) and repairing the current shell. Cheers Gary

There is no magic in car electronics, it's either volts and/or amps. Cheers Gary

Take it from someone who has built up many a race car from a caged shell, it's not worth very much at all. Buying the necessary parts to complete it would cost way more than buying a complete R34GTR, making it into a race car and then selling off the road car bits that you don't need. Looking at it, the roll cage wouldn't be FIA complient, so parts of it would have to be redone, then the complete cage would need to be engineered. Acid dipping is no big deal, a few hundred dollars gets that done locally. Seam welding takes time but not a lot of materials, if you can weld it's a small cost, say another couple of hundred dollars. Realistically the $1K to get it from Perth is about all it's worth. Cheers Gary

The first palce to start is the FIA homologation papers, you get them from CAMS. 851 Dandenong Road Malvern East, Vic, 3145 PO Box 147 Caulfield East, Vic, 3145 Ph: (03) 9593 7777 Fax: (03) 9593 7700 Cheers Gary

No Cheers Gary

If only it were that easy; This means an event organiser can let cars run with any mods they choose. Your choices would seem to be M2 or M4 unless you are running it on ethanol etc then M5 might be attractive. So I assume M2, let me know if otherwise So that means to me; 1. Adjustable swaybars would be a must 2. Decent remote cannister shocks double adjustable, MSA (nee Proflex) would be the most economical at around $9K with Eibach springs. If the budget stretches, then Ohlins (from Sweden, not Yamahas from Japan) at around $11K, or Penskes at $12K. I would stay away from triple or more, adjustable shocks, they can be too consuming to set up if you have limited experience. 3. Adjustable polyurethane bushes for caster and camber, front and rear. You would want them to be externally adjustable in case you need to make some repairs to the geometry after an off. Some things for you to think about. Cheers Gary

I agree, plus it's also technically superior and real world superior Since the gearbox is at the rear the linkages required to give decent shfter accuracy and feel may well weigh more than a solenoid or two and a few wires. Gearbox wear? In my experience a non sequential gearbox wears out much faster than the same sized sequential gearbox. It's the main reason why V8Supercars went to sequential gearboxes from this year, to save on maintenance costs, 2 rebuilds a year instead of 4. Clutch wear? That would seem more logical, especially if dumb asses are driving them like they had a torque converter. The beauty of the sequential is that the driver can't miss a shift, ruin an engine, lose the race in a tenth of second. Every car at LeMans runs a sequential gearbox, so they last 24 hours of racing. WRC, everyone of them, SuperTourers and now V8Supercars, none of them use H pattern gearboxes. Motorsport (aircraft) quality sensors are a fact of life in all forms of professional motorsport, Sach released 3 different versions of the motorsport clutch pack for Golfs, I can see the market for GTR clutches being even larger. Give it 12 months and Sach, Tilton, AP, Carbonetic etc will all have motorsport clutches available for GTR's. I believe exactly the reverse for the reasons above. Personally I'd take the sequential every single time, that's as a driver and as the guy who pays the bills. Faster lap times and lower costs, what more could I ask. Cheers Gary

This was a safety issue, particularly with LM front wheel drive cars and in general all LM's with crumple zones. Cheers Gary

Not an easy question to answer, some tarmac events run to different regulations than others. For example some allow swaybar upgrades some don't and that alone makes a massive difference to the spring and damper rates. Not to mention wheel alignment adjustment methods, bush changes, aftermarket control arms etc etc. So you ned to be more specific in the events you are planning on running and the allowables under their regulations. Cheers Gary