Sydneykid

Standard boost answer, more air in the system = slower response. Cheers Gary

Personally I don't think boost has anything to do with horsepower. So any table linking the 2 is pretty much useless. I can't speak of personal experience with GTRS's, but I certainly can with regard to GCG ball bearing high flows. A simple example, we have made 250 rwkw at 19psi and 265 rwkw at 17 psi and 275 rwkw at 18 psi. The difference? What else is done to the engine (cams, head work, valves etc), what fuel it runs on (all pump fuel) and how it is tuned. I know I am being repetitive but........airflow makes horsepower, boost is simply a measure of restriction to airflow. Cheers Gary

SoSK did similar, 4th to 3rd instead of 5th. Result 12 bent exchaust valves, no compression, engine no run. If the engine still runs OK, then chances are you got away with it, consider yourself very lucky. A leak down test will confirm that everything is OK. Cheers Gary

Try the Stagea Suspension thread in the Stagea section, same. You will need spring compressors. Cheers Gary

Instructions are in the kit. Cheers Gary

The new timing belt will be shorter than the old belt, hence you WILL have to rotate the camshaft pulleys a little bit to get the teeth to line up. Puting the CAS back in exactly the same place is not as easy as it sounds, remember 0.5 degree at the CAS mounting = 1 degree at the crank. So both the camshaft and ignition timing will most likely be different than they were before the new belt was fitted. If you use an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley (as I did) to retard the camshaft timing, you will retard the ignition timing at same time (the CAS is connected to the exhaust camshaft). Let me tell you 4 degrees of ignition retard sure as hell kills the response and power. The ECU has no idea whether or not the CAS is lined up with the timing marks, the ECU just assumes that it is. That's why you need a timing light, to check and correct (if necessary) that alignment. The DIY thread shows you how to connect up the timing light sensor to the loop in the ignitor lead. My home garage timing light is a Haigh brand that cost around $80 from my local AutoOne/AutoPro. Cheers Gary

Of course it will still go ahead, it's not drag racing you know I'll just change the entry to the Stagea, it's good in the wet Cheers Gary

Corrected for accuracy Cheers Gary

I assume you are running this event under a Speed Event Permit, since the results are determined by timing not finishing order (that's a race). Most likely Supersprint regualtions since you will have multiple cars on the circuit at the same time. If that is the case then ROP's have never been a requirement ("non manadatory" in CAMS speak). Our applied definition at a Speed Event is that if the car has been "lightened significantly" we insist on ROP. Lightweight bonnets and boots are OK, but once you get into things like doors and total interior stripping, then some form of ROP is the go. Since it is not a CAMS requirement, but something we add at our level, then we determin if the ROP is suitable. Hence "Japanese" brand name roll cages are acceptable, although we prefer the CAMS approved and maker certified ROP's. Keeping the above in mind, I doubt that you will get a response from CAMS, it's all in the Manual (reference Roll Over Protection in Speed Events). Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

For normal road work, if I run more than 30 psi cold on Michelin Pilot Sports, I get centre of tread (over inflation) wear. If I run more than 26 psi cold for track work I get too high tread temperatures in the centres. If I run more than 18 psi in MT radials at the drags I lose traction. Cheers Gary

As is quite common, the traction problem is not tyres. The usual suspects, lowered too much, too high a rear spring rate, no rear subframe alignment or camber correction. Simply replacing the upper control arms will only partially fix one of the problems and introduce yet another, bump steer. You need to correct both the rear upper control arms and the traction rods to avoid bump steer problems. There are better alternatives for fixing this problem than replacing the arms, try a Rear Camber Kit from Whiteline or Noltec. Cheers Gary

The bit that really interests me is the "too much negative camber after lowering only 20 mm". What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements? This is relevant, for 2 reasons, firstly because it shouldn't happen. Secondly, and arguably more importantly, the height effects what you can do in a mechancial sense to correct the excessive camber. The offset bush correction available in an R32 is well over 2 degrees, with both inner and outer excentrics useable on their upper control arms. To require more than 2 degrees of correction either the car is lowered more than 20 mm or it is bent. As to how, I have had a think about it and I understand what you may have done and you are right, it's not something that I would ever recommend as a DIY solution. There is a PM on the way. Cheers Gary

And Power FC Cheers Gary

As well as class wins, don't forgret the all important bragging rights of having the fastest white R33GTST with silver wheels, the best almost lose, biggest smoke screen, least laps completed, deepest into the sandtrap, longest brake lock up, etc etc. There are plenty of contests within the classes to keep the masses entertained. Cheers Gary

They don't like corners very much, but great in straight line. Cheers Gary

These are the Group Buy full kit details, over 160 kits sold to happy Skyliners, read the reviews in the various Group Buy threads Nissan Skyline R33GTS4 Front Springs $144.00 Rear Springs $144.00 Front Bilstein Shocks $588.00 Rear Bilstein Shocks $588.00 BNF27Z Front stabiliser bar $219.00 BNR11XXZ Rear stabiliser bar $219.00 KCA332 Caster Kit $110.00 KCA348 Front Camber kit $183.00 KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00 KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00 W0921 Bump Stop & Dust Cover $102.00 Freight $- Sub Total $2,525.00 Less extra 5% $126.25 Total $2,398.75 Payment is required at the time of placing the order. I can do credit card, just PM me the details, or bank transfer Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. Please don't forget to send me full name and address for the order plus a contact phone number for the courier in case they need directions or instructions if no one is home. Springs are usually in stock at Redranger Bilstein takes 1-2 working days to machine the additional circlip grooves Bushes are usually in stock at Redranger Stabiliser bars take 4-5 working days to make as we do not keep stock of the unique Group Buy bars Delivery is via Star Track Express and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I will PM you the con note number as soon as it is issued it that way you can track the delivery on the Star Track web site. Skylines NEVER have enough caster, that's why they wander at speed, are reluctant to turn in and have poor steering feel. Hence the need for adjustable caster (radius rod) bushes. The standard rear subframe bushes are very soft, silicone filled. They are soft when new and do wear over time until they finally leak. The rear subframe alignment kit supplements the standard bushes, stops the subframe from flopping around and at the same time give some adjustment of the rear squat. This allows for improvement in the rear traction. If you lower it and don‘t correct the excessive negative camber you will suffer from rapid tyre wear, as well as reduced traction for handling, braking and accelerating. For camber kits, please keep the following in mind when lowering yours. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits The standard suspension bushes are very soft. They are soft when new and do wear over time until they finally split and fail completely. The Whiteline bushes are obviously new plus they are up to 75% stiffer than new standard bushes. This stops the suspension arms from flopping around and dynamically changing the camber, toe and caster settings over every bump and ripple in the road. This is especially noticeable when cornering loads are applied, hence you get a noticeable improvement in tyre contact patch and hence traction. I have included a couple of kits of bump stop/dust covers as the R33's are getting on now and most times the standard ones are stuffed. It saves a couple of days waiting around to get them delivered when you find the standard ones are unusable. The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTS4's handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. Bilsteins have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting. Plus I have selected the valving to suite the Group Buy kit. I think that about covers it, if you have any questions please just ask Cheers Gary

As with the R32GTR, Nissan Australia's problem is that the dealer network has no idea how to service (at the point of purchase or subsequently) someone who has spent over $100K on one of their cars. Toyota are no better, that's why they have separate Lexus dealers. Ditto Honda dealers trying to sell NSX's and Mazda dealers with S6 RX7's. It's one of the reasons why there has been no Toyota Supra replacement, it needs to be a Lexus to get the service levels expected by the customer. That's why Nissan has Infinity in the USA and Honda has Acura, everyone knows the problems associated with selling econoboxes next to high priced luxury or performance cars. What are you going to do R35GTR Product Manager? Appoint one dealer per state, trained and authorised to sell GTR's? People in Sydney won't drive 2 hours from one side of town to the other and back to get their car serviced. They won't be happy with a Tiida loan car, they won't be happy standing in the queue at the service counter behind some guy with a 15 year old Patrol. If you think 350Z customers are hard to handle, wait until you get an R35GTR customer. IT WON'T WORK NISSAN Give it up and leave it to the importers for the same reasons as you did with the R33 and R34's. YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE CUSTOMER EXPECTATIONS THAT THIS CAR WILL ATTRACT Cheers Gary

But the CA equipped S13 chassis are lighter than the SR equipped ones. So the converted cars have a weight advantage over the non converted ones. How about the line that R32's came with RB5DE's, adding a turbo shouldn't put you into the Open Class. Cheers Gary

As you can see from the pictures, the standard links are fairly substantial and they showed zero signs of distress at the check over after 1,000ks'. Cheers Gary

You need a press to remove the old standard rubber bushes, around 20 tonnes is plenty. Plus it will need a wheel alignment when it is finished. Some guys take the radius rods out themselves and pop around to their local workshop for the pressing. They usually charge $50 or so, then fairly soon after fitment you should take the car for an alignment to set the caster and then reset the toe as it will be out. As from next week we will have exchange arms (front and rear for R32's and R33/34's for 2wd and 4wd). I will be making up a Group Buy shortly, the arms/rods are media blasted, crack tested, powder coated gloss black and have new adjustable bushes fitted. So all you do is swap them over, it's a 1 hour or so DIY job, and then get the car aligned. The front caster rods are $250 for the pair and you get $50 back when you return the original ones from your car. The refurbished arms come with a StarTrack express con note attached, just pop the old ones in the box and call the phone number for pick up. Cheers Gary

What model? Front or rear? Lowering by 20 mm (from standard height ie; ~360 mm for 2wd and 365 mm for 4wd) on R32/33/34's brings the front camber pretty much perfect for road driving at around 0.5 degrees negative Lowering by 20 mm (from standard height ie; ~355 mm) on R32/33/34's results in slightly too much negative rear camber, but most times the standard adjusters will get it in the ball park at around 0.25 degrees negative. The Noltec and/or Whiteline front and rear camber kits will easily correct (remove) that amount of camber to get to zero if that was your aim. So either we are talking about a model outside that range or you lowered it more than 20 mm from standard or it was bent and the camber was out of spec before you lowered it. Regardless, I am very curious as to how you can shim something that is welded and/or bolted longitudinally. We are up to 70 years of tuning suspension on cars and karts between us, so you have a few more to go to catch up Cheers Gary

Radius rod = caster rod = tension arm Group Buy radius rod bushes, adjustable for caster, hence called a Caster Kit $110 + $5 delivery. PM for details. Cheers Gary

I have found that a rear half cage doesn't make anywhere near as much difference as a full (6 point) cage. Then the number of attachment points also comes into effect, particulary if you go though the firewall to front strut towers. I addition, after full cage firtment, the suspension almost always needs retuning to get the best out of the car. If you leave it alone, it may well have too high spring and hence shock rates, plus a reduction in camber may also be of benefit. I have seen cars go slower (lap time wise) after a full cage was fitted, until we retuned the suspension. Interestingly enough the brake bias also changed, with the front able to handle more braking effort than was the case pre cage. Cheers Gary

This is also a bit harsh on guys in S13's with stock standard SR's replacing CA's. Cheers Gary