Sydneykid

Sold Cheers Gary

PM me for details and pricing, it's in the Group Buy thread as well, just click on the link above. Cheers Gary

8mm is huge Cheers Gary

It's RPM that is the most hurtfull, so if you stick a big turbo on it and hence have to rev it, then it won't take much over 325 rwkw If you use sensible sized turbos, and hence don't have to rev it, then just under 400 rwkw has been done more than once. Cheers Gary

RB20 = old engine, manye K's perhaps? Lifters do wear out. You have incereased the lift so the old lifters are now working in range that they haven't ever previously worked in. This causes leak down of the oil pressure from the lifter. It's not unusual to have lifter noise when you put new cams in, it happens quite often. The permanent solution = new lifters. You might try some heavier grade engine oil, if you are using 5W30, try some 10W60. That sometimes works. Cheers Gary

If you put upper control arms in without adjusting the length of the traction arms it will bump steer something terrible. Which is arguably worse for traction than the excessive camber you currently have. Cheers Gary

If you lower it and don‘t correct the excessive negative camber you will suffer from rapid tyre wear, as well as reduced traction for handling, braking and accelerating. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Keep in mind that GTR's handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). Group Buy link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html Cheers Gary

Try the Group Buy, over 150 guys using them, check out the testimonials; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Cheers Gary

No. The standard shocks are only just OK for the standard spring rates when they are new . Lowered springs have to have higher spring rates to soak up the impacts in the shorter distance, plus your shocks aren't new. Have a read of thsi thread, it covers what you are looking at; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=103158&hl Cheers Gary

R32/33/34 Skylines are not intended to be limos, Nissan sets them up with sports oriented suspension from the factory. The standard spring rates are around 3 kg/mm. Knowing the local conditions, aftermarket Australian spring makers upgrade that by 20-25% to allow for some lowering. Hence it is rare to see a Whiteline, Lovells, Kings etc spring rates over 4 kg/mm. So compare that with what you are getting with the Jap spec and make up your own mind what they will be like. Don't fool yourself into believing that, in order to handle well, a Skyline has to be hard in the suspension. That's simply not the case, you can have ride comfort and great handling at the same time. Cheers Gary

I am not going to list the swaybars until the car has at least a 1,000 k's on them. They are substantial upgrades and I need to carefully check the links and D bushes to ensure all is well. Be patient, you will get a better result from the thorough testing. Cheers Gary

Plus it always screws up the bump steer something fierce, often changes the Ackerman and does no good at all for the dynamic camber change. If you fix those things then, yep, longer lower control arms work fine. Cheers Gary

Haven't seen them in use as yet, won't be long though, without dust seals and grease retention they won't last very long. So I will have guys PM'ing me for advice on how to stop the knocking. Hard to tell exactly from the pictures, but their minimum length looks too long for sufficient negative camber on the high speed tracks (eg; Philip Island) Cheers Gary

You won't notice anything, excpet if the wheels fall off because there isn't enough stud for the nuts to hold. Cheers Gary

50 mm PWR radiator Large Oil cooler, mounted in the side vents (NOT in front of the radiator) Tube and fin intercooler (NOT bar and plate) If you are consistenbtly using more than 8,000 rpm (on the track) then an N1 water pump is worthwhile Make sure you bleed ALL of the the air out of the coolant system Cheers Gary

I have them on my S1 Cheers Gary

They are a bitch to adjust, you can't get to the locking nut while the arm is connected. You will pay more for every wheel alignment as a result. Cheers Gary

Let's go though it one by one Shocks: L/H SHOCK LEAKING = a new shock will fix that (try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/-t85591).html Sway bar bushes: R/H SWAY BAR LINK BENT AND BUSHES DESTROYED = you will get new bushes with the bar but you will have to either straighten the link or order new ones with the bar. Tie rod ends: R/H VERY WORN = new tie rod ends, Just Jap or equivalent in your area. Upper bushes: VERY WORN = front camber kit will replace them Steering gear: RACK MOUNTS, RACK BOOTS, AND RACK ENDS WORN = not unusual, but it depends on how worn they are Radius Bushes: BUSHES TORN = front caster kit will replace them Tyres: BALD ON INSIDE EDGES = once you get the aliognment right using teh camber kits you won't be wearing out the insides of the new tyres. Rear Shocks: L/H REAR LEAKING = ditto front Bump Stops : DESTROYED = very common on R32's thses days, they are getting on. You should order new bumps tops with the shocks. Coil over kits come with them but the Jap kits are usually far too hard for our conditions. Cheers Gary

Swap the link to the front of the upright/hub. Cheers Gary

The R33GTR rear cradle used in the 260RS is a different width than the RS4 Stagea cradle. The front suspension in the 260RS is the same as the RS4. Stageas bodies are ~50 mm wider in rear than the front to accomodate the wider rear track (than the front track). To fit the wheels on the rear of the 260RS they had to change the offset, ie; different from front to rear. Nothing to do with handling, it's all about fitting the wheels inside the guards with the different cradle widths. I have never noticed any difference in handling with minor changes in offset. The steering weight may change if you use largely different offsets on the front, but that's about it. Be aware of the noticeable deterioration in ride comfort when fitting 18"s and the higher cost of tyres of course. Cheers Gary

No and no. Cheers Gary

Air chisel from SupaCheap, $20 or so and saves hours. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

Try the Group Buy section. Cheers Gary

There are only 3 ways to achieve over 2.8 litres, so it's not hard to work through them. I eliminated the 86/84mm combo as it gives 29.3 not 29.5. If I had known it was that capacity then the combo is obvious, although I still don't like the rod stroke ratio. A questions if I may; Why did you go for 86mm? Since you have to use tall liners I would have thought 87mm would have been more user friendly, plus give some more (0.7L) capacity. Cheers Gary