Sydneykid

Put the nut half on and give it a tap with a hammer, it will slide out once you get it moving. Cheers Gary

Think about it..........set your boost at say 1.5 bar and the MAP sensor is useless, it ALWAYS reads 1.5 bar. So you are tuning off RPM and throttle position. But what if you are at 100% throttle and 1.5 bar? Quite a common occurance wouldn't you say? Then you are tuning against RPM only, that's one dimensional tuning. Compare that to AFM tuning, you have 2 dimensions (AFM voltage and RPM) to tune against. When the AFM voltage maxes out, then you still have RPM to tune against. Which is exactly the same as MAP sensor driven ECU. So tell me where the advantage in going MAP sensor ECU is? Cheers Gary

At what RPM? What AFM ramp table are you using? I can get to 20 on zero boost by changing the ramp table 5.2 volts Cheers Gary

Considerinmg the grief the damn thing gave us over 3 seasons of racing I think I am being very fair One lap, maybe, after 5 laps forget it. Here's the problem, in Production Car Racing we have to run the STANDARD intercooler. Surely you don't think the standard Supra intercooler is anywhere near as efficient as the GTR's. There is simply no comparison. The GTR is homologated with an engine oil cooler and a transmission cooler, the Supra isn't. The radiators are much of a muchness. Then you aren't driving it hard enough and/or long enough. One lap no problems, cruise for a few laps, no problems. Get stuck into it at race pace for a handfull of laps and their gone. Research, I have been to 8 drag meetings in the US in the last 2 years and I haven't seen one GTR racing, not one. At just one of those drag meetings there were 28 Supras. They were sold there brand new, they make good 2wd drag cars, there layout suites LH drive, there are cheap to buy, there are more parts available than you would believe at rediculously low prices. They dominate Sports Compact Drag Racing by shear weight of numbers, that's what my face to face research tells me. And keep up with a GTR? I don't think so, in fact you would be doing well to keep up with an auto Stagea in the wet. Once again you missed the point, it's about metallurgy and there is no difference in the material used, it's hardness or brittleness. The GTR block has to be strong as it carries the front diff, the GTR block has to be strong as it was designed to run in 24 Hour races, the GTR block has to be strong as it was designed to ensure that the R32GTR dominated Group A racing and during its life Nissan improved that strength. That's what racing does, it forces you to examine the weaknesses and fix them. Not racing means you miss out on the benefits of that constant development. Don't get me wrong, if I was going 2wd Import (Sports Compact) Drag Racing a Supra would be top of my list. But that's not what interests me, in the areas that I want a superior car the GTR wins every time. All I am doing in this thread is supporting my preferences, what I personally want/expect in a car. Cheers Gary

After 5 laps at Amaroo Park it had no brakes, every race meeting, that's the facts. Don't believe me, trot on down to Wakefield and I will get one of our race team drivers to boil them for you, might take 6 laps there. What makes you think the Supra was somehow immune from oil surge problems? Cheers Gary

You need to experience the number of rotary engine failures we have to understand why I could never own an RX7. DD tunes Bob Pearson's Prod Sports RX7 (500 or so rwhp) and it has a new 13B every other week. Compared to the RB26 it's about 6 to 1 engines in a season. Cheers Gary

Worse driveability, poorer response, less accurate A/F ratios and ignition timing............why would I? Cheers Gary

This bit interests me, "r33 gts-t using an rb25 head & rb20 pwr steering pump". Why are you using an RB20 power steering pump? They are older and heavier and have no discernable advantage over the standard R33GTST power steering pump. Which is a straight bolt up. Cheers Gary

As the guys have already said you are not being specific enough about what is is you are trying to achieve. An example perhaps, the RB26 knock sensors will bolt onto the RB25DET Neo block. Is that useful to you? Probably not since the RB25DET Neo knock sensors are just as good (and possibly newer) than RB26 knock sensors. But maybe the knock sensors on your engine are stuffed, so the RB26 ones would be useful. The other bit of vital information that is missing is what model of RB26? For example an R34GTR exhaust camshaft will fit an RB25DET NEO, but an R32/33GTR exhaust camshaft won't, because the CAS drive is different. Oil pump, an R32GTR oil pump is not worth swapping to, but an R33GTR S2 and R34GTR oil pumps are definitely worth it. Not so simple is it? So please supply some more info and we will see what we can do. Cheers Gary

I don't have that particular Q45 AFM any more, but the current one (just about to go on) is supposed to be the same; The label is yellow 22680 6IU00 A36-000 P60 1903F JECS Made in Japan The R33GTST's rebuilt RB25DET is going in tomorrow, then next week we start on the RB31DET into R32GTST, that's where this Q45 AFM is going. So I will have definitive results for this particular AFM in a few weeks. There is another variable I have found, that maybe has an effect. It would appear that the R33GTST S2 (and onwards) alternator/voltage regulator runs at 14.2 volts, compared to 13.8 volts for the R33GTST S1, R33GTR S1 and all R32's. I need to test the output/input voltage from the ECU to see if that 0.4 volt difference has an effect on the AFM voltage. Cheers Gary

That's my table I should have patented it That creator may not have, but this one did, about 4 years ago and it was the best rule of thumb info around at the time. That's good effort, better than I have ever achieved. In the US I heard that Q40 AFM's are also 90 mm, maybe that's the problem Me, just over 400 rwkw and Apexi around 1200 bhp with 2 x Q45's Cheers Gary

The poor man's solution; I stretched the standard rubber hose over the 80 mm AFMs, 65 mm to 80 mm so 7.5 mm was no big deal. I bought a couple of new hose clamps as the standard ones were just a bit too small. When I bought the AFMs (SAU "For Sale" section) I made sure that they came with plugs. I already had one HKS 80 mm pod filter off the R32GSTS, so I bought another one from the SAU "For Sale" section. All up cost including the AFM's was $650. Cheers Gary

An N/A engine making 500 bhp will quite happily run at 8 psi with a carby (that's Low Pressure), and 38 psi with injectors (that's High Pressure). A turbo engine may need up to 72 psi to make its 500 bhp. So picking a fuel pump based on some non specific rating of "High Pressure" is useless if you are looking at a turbo application. A fuel pump is simply an electric motor with a pump on the end of the output shaft. If you want more flow you use a bigger pump, if you want more pressure you use a larger electric motor. Pressure is directly related to the torque output of the electric motor, torque in an electric motor is directly proportional to the size of its rotor. There is no magic in electric motors, if you want more pressure you need a physically bigger motor. Before I get into the graphs, it is worth mentioning that manufacturer's fuel pump ratings are usually done at 12 volts (battery voltage), whereas the running voltage (alternator ouput) is commonly 13.8 volts. Hence testing is often done at both voltages. Keeping the above in mind, please tell me how anybody would think that the Walbro can get anywhere near the Bosch looking at the following picture; Now take a look at the flow charts noting how the Wablro drops off in flow as the pressure rises; Do the comparison, a STANDARD R33GTR pump flows 235 l/h at 25psi compared to 210 l/h at 25 psi for the Walbro That's the data, you make you own judgement. In case you were still wondering what I use, the race cars all have Bosch fuel pumps and the road cars have standard GTR pumps. Cheers Gary

In case someone doesn't know, you get cheaper greenslips on your car if you have comprehensive insurance on that car. Doesn't have to be with the same company. For example, the Stagea's comprehensive is with Shannons and its greenslip is with NRMA and costs $300'ish compared to $500'ish without comprehensive insurance. Cheers Gary

Be carefull matching DBA 5000 Series hats and rotors, they don't all run the same rotor PCD or stud pattern. Some common ones are 7 bolt, some 11 and I have even seen 14 bolt. Another warning, like wheels, the hub centre is the best locator for the hat. Using wheel studs alone for centricity is not something I would recommend. Cheers Gary

Nope, the R33GTS4 has an eye for the lower mount of the rear shock (like an R33GST) and the R33GTR has a fork on the lower mount. A full set of Whiteline lowered coils for an R33GTS4 at the Group Buy price is $288 plus around $10 delivery. Cheers Gary

I couldn't let this one slip, one exmaple will do it, 1100 bhp in a R33GTR with a standard block, it's called VMax built by Apexi. And it has AFM's Cheers Gary

I actually don't think it is pointless at all. Let's try something simple, let's say I want a car for daily driving and the occasional track day. The GTR is far superior at that because of its 4wd (ever driven a high powered Supra in the wet?) and its inherent circuit racing superiority. On the other hand if you want a car for weekends only, when it's not raining and the occasional Friday night at the drags, then the Supra is arguably better. As long as you run decent tyres to overcome it's 2wd dissadvantage of course. There are heaps of other comparative examoles, I just chose those two as they are obvious. This discussion may just help someone make the right decision when choosing a car for their specific needs. Cheers Gary

Perhaps the issue is you don't understand the problems of racing to strict regulations. If I do everything exactly the same (as per the regs) to both cars, the R32GTR is far superior in race pace. It is more consistent, has superior brakes and cooling (intercooler and hydraulics) and looks after its tyres so much better. In qualifying the difference was around 2 seconds, but after 5 laps or so it blew out close to 5 seconds. That's what circuit racing is all about, how long it takes to go the race distance, meaning consistency. Don't twist what I said, 8's on radials WITH a manual AND at full weight. Your examples are either autos or air shifters and/or drag slick and/or light weight. The driver is on the left in the US, not the right. Supra TT's were sold there brand new, Skyline weren't. The tracks in the US crap all over ours. Hardly any Skylines race in the US. There are almost impossible to import to the US, and you think DOTARS is bad. That comparison has nothing to do with the car itself, simply the differences in availability. One throttle body Cheers Gary

No problem, we have made 425 rwkw on standard R34GTR N1 turbos. The highest I have seen is 442 rwkw, not on one of our cars though. Cheers Gary

It's hard to see from the photo, but it looks like you haven't compressed the rubber bush between the pressed steel bump stop cover and the strut top enough. Tighten up the shock top nut. That should give you contact between the spring and the rubber seat. As you can see the centre of the strut top extends downwards inside the spring, this prevents the spring "falling out" if you use the lower circlip grooves. Cheers Gary

On the race cars we run twin master cylinders obviously, with Tilton adjusters and Hawk HT10's all round. My R32GTST still has the OE booster and master cylinder so I run different pad compounds front to rear. Currently I have HT10's in the front and HTC60's in the rear as the front brakes have been upgraded as per above, but the rear rotors are the standard size 4000 series. I have used a Tilton pressure limiter for the rears in the past, but the split compound has made that prety much redundant. Matt's R33GTST still has the OE booster and master cylinder and as it is a daily driver we run Hawk HP Plus in it. The front rotors are 324 mm 5000 series and the rear rotors are the standard size 4000 series. It has no ABS and is heavily front brake biased, so you have to be careful not to lock the fronts. The R32GTST has ducting from the lower vents on its R32GTR front bumper, one to each rotor. That is there permanently for hillclimbs lap dashes etc. For track days, where the session are longer, the rear has the Gibson R32GTR like ducting from under the rear seat floor to the rear rotors. There is a tendancy away from publishing CoF's because it can be misleading. People were tricked into buying pads simply on their one temperature point CoF, the higher the better. Which is pretty silly when you think about it, what about the other temperatures? You don't drive along with the pads constantly at, say, 650 degrees C, the temperature rises and falls constantly. What's the good of a pad that has a CoF of 6 at 650 degrees and 3 at 500 degrees? You would never be able to use it effectively. That's where the ratings of initial torque, fade resistence, release, modulation, pad wear and rotor wear are more useful. Cheers Gary

Personally I would get a set of calliper adaptors off John (UAS) and use the 343 x 32 mm 5000 Series rotors with the standard callipers and set of Hawk HPC60 pads. That's about as much braking performance on a GTR as an R type tyre can handle. Cheers Gary

Other than what I have posted above, I have no idea why some guys suffer badly and some don't. As a comparison, we used DBA5000 series rotors for the Bathurst 12 hour with Brembo calipers on a DC5 Integra, zero cracks, probably good for another couple of hours. Maybe you should try some 5000 Series, they may suite your application better than 4000's. Cheers Gary

380 ps = ~270 kw, less around 70 kw for drivetrain and roller losses leaves you with ~200 4wkw. My guess is the turbo is running out of airflow at 185 rwkw. Regardless, you won't be getting 220-230 rwkw out of that turbo. Cheers Gary