Sydneykid

They are now 6 years old and hard to get registered in Japan. Past experience shows that as soon as any car gets more than 5 years old the prices drop as more and more become available. Cheers Gary

This a good car if you want to go IP racing, it could do with a dog box but that's about it, everything else is pretty much spot on. With no restrictors and based on its corner speed (and lack of straight line speed) it should do a high 1.03 at WP, a 1.39 at EC and around 1.12 at OP. Take out the restrictors, minor turbo changes, up the diff ratios and that is the sort of lap time decrease you should see using an R type tyre. On slicks, take another 1.5 seconds off at WP and OP and 2 secs off at EC. The target would be V8 SuperCar lap times at any circuit, keeping in mind that Boz and Lofty can drive. Cheers Gary

If you are bending your strut brace, then its design is wrong anyway. It should only need to be strong in compression and alloy is plenty good enough for that. Cheers Gary

Standard RB26 throttle bodies 75mm turbo to intercooler pipework 80mm intercooler to plenum pipework Cheers Gary

As you may remember, the cylinder head was already extensively ported and larger exhaust valves fitted, after the over rev at the drags last year. So the manifold inlet runners had to be aligned with the head porting anyway. Only took a few minutes on each port with the die grinder. We also tidied up the water jacket porting a little, not much. All up less than $100 in time cost, so no big deal. Would have had to do it with any inlet manifold, same as we did with the exhaust manifold. It's standard engine preparation for us. I haven't touched the plenum itself, the rough casting inside is good for airflow, separates it and stops laminar flow around the walls. We only worked up the ports enough to blend in the extra size required to match the head. It’s a smooth and straight transition and aimed at the back of the inlet valve, that’s all that matters. As an asside, with the Tomei Poncams, valve springs, oversized exhaust valves and porting, it's the best RB25 head I have ever done. So it will be interesting to see how it works out with the VG30 housing on the GCG ball bearing hgh flow, response should be lightening fast. I know will have to spend some time getting the individual cylinder tuning right, but it should be worth it. Cheers Gary

I have looked through my pictures and I have none with cameras in the cars. Like the ones in our cars, they were most likely put in on the Friday night and removed on Sunday straight after the race, so not much opportunity to take pictures with them in place. Cheers Gary

I haven't quite finished yet, a couple of simple brackets still to fabricate. When it's done I will post up the pictures. Except I seem to have run out of space in my gallery, but I'll sort that out with the Big C. Cheers Gary

I'm here, just busy. I am not sure what it is exactly that you want to know, so I will guess, let me know if it doesn't cover what you want. Getting rid of the small amount of standard anti dive is not a good idea as the car will simply dive more under brakes. We actually increase the front anti dive so that we can run softer front spring rates and not have too much dive. Increasing the front anti dive is simply a matter of spacing the front mounting brackets of the radius rods down from the subframe. We use 3 mm thick alloy shims stacked so we can adjust the amount of anti dive. Changing the rear squat is just a matter of changing the angle of the rear subframe. Getting rid of the small amount of standard rear anti squat is a good idea for a drag car as it increase the weight transfer onto the rear tyres under acceleration. On the circuit cars we actually decrease the rear squat on the 4wd's as it helps with the corner exit understeer. On 2wd's for road and/or track we run the cradle in the standard postion. You change angle of the rear subframe by using the Whiteline rear subframe alignment kits as per their instructions. Cheers Gary

These are in the link that I posted above; Cheers Gary

Hi James, just before the SAU NSW track day at Wakefield Park last year I fitted some UAS calliper adpators, brake scoops and 324mm DBA 5000 series rotors to the R33GTST. I have a number of pictures and quite a few tips on fitting, but my gallery is full, so I can't post them at the moment. I either need to ask for an increase in my gallery size or find out how delete some images. Cheers Gary

I wouldn't advise using the guard clearance to determine how much camber you run. Different circuits demand different cambers and (more importantly) what you run on the track should be far more than what you would want to on the road for tyre wear reasons alone. For tyre clearance you would be best advised to use a strut leg with more than standard offset to the upright (hub). This gives room for camber and also enables you to run wheels with more offset (inwards) for increased guard clearance. We have run 235/40/17 A048's on 8" rims with camber between 1.5 degree negative (road) and 4 degrees negative (Philip Island). This requires adjustable strut tops and offset camber pins. Cheers Gary

The R34GT's I have seen have all had eyes on the lower rear shocks, whereas R34GTT's have forks, same as R34GTR's (and R33GTR's). Cheers Gary

Should we move this thread to the "Tutorials, DIY" section?

Since the engine is out of the car, it is much easier for me to put up some finished pictures from below, which is where most of the action is. Particularly the water hoses and connections for the oil/water heat exchanger. I couldn't seem to find the Greddy instructions in this thread (it's probably there, I may have simply missed it), but just in case this is the link to the pdf file. It's in Japanese, but the drawings are very worthwhile. http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/1282.pdf I noticed on some cars that the throtte cable angle was an issue. I purchased a Greddy throttle body adaptor from Nengun and it came with a bracket that goes between the standard throttle cable bracket and the mounting holes on the plenum. It straightens the throttle cable alignment. I will post up a picture of that as well. I also noticed that some guys have used the water supply fittings for the turbo incorrectly. In order for water to flow through the piepwork and around the turbo core there needs to be a pressure differential between the source of the water and the return. That is usually accomplished by having the return plumbed in before the thermostat. The thermostat, even when it is fully open, forms a flow limiter and hence the water pump creates a partial vacuum on the radiator side of the thermostat. So having the water source and the return both plumbed into the rear of the block is not a good idea, as the pressure would be almost equal and very little water will flow. What I have done is to plumb the return into the fitting that comes out of the thermostat encasement on the block. It also concerns me that most guys haven't re-used the air bleed, that standard is mounted at the highest point of the inlet plenum. This is also not a good idea as it removes the capability for the bleeding out of any air trapped in the cooling system. As everyone knows air in the cooling systems is not a good idea as it leads to hot spots at various places in the cylinder head which can cause cracking and/or warping due to temperature differential and also detonation due to localised heating. So I have plumbed the bleed vent and its 3 pipes back into the revised cooling system. One pipe goes to the throttle body cooling return, another to the turbo return (as mentioned above) and the third to the rear of the block. Hopefully the pictures will make it easier to understand. As some may remember I purchased the inlet manifold/plenum to save some cost. So I could use top feed injectors (that I have plenty of) instead of side feeds (that I would have to buy). I thought I would be able to simply buy the alloy adaptors to fit the top feed injectors into the side feed holes in the inlet manifold. But apparently they are only sold (at $400 or so) with a Greddy top feed fuel rail, which I don't need as I have plenty of standard RB top feed fuel rails. So what I thought I would do is get our race team fabricator to machine up some adaptors out of alloy on the lathe. While he is doing it he may as well do a few more sets, so I thought I would ask if anyone else needs a set. Cheers Gary

The need for heat treatement of CM seems to have gone now that most people have the TIG requirements (temperatures) under control. There are plenty of already engineered CM cages now, so the engineering costs are not as relevant any more. They simply sign off on a pre-existing design, no analysis required. I have always found prices on cages to be unpredictable, a 4 point from BD for $800 is very cheap. I probably would have gone that way if they had offered me that price when I asked . From memory my quote was $1,200 including M to S freight of course. So $600 was a pretty attractive comparison. Plus it came fully padded, every single piece. Based on what limited padding costs for the race team cars that saved me another $200 or so. The other reason I went for the 6 point was because of the rigidity question. The front half of the R32GTST is where I could feel the most twist, which is logical since it has over 60% of the weight. Judging by the R32GTR results from fitting the 12 point Bond CM cage, the front half rigidity is the real bonus. I will be interested in your comments if/when you decide to do the front half of the cage. Cheers Gary

The Pi System 2 is a combination dash and logger, so I have to log what the dash displays, plus a few more that I select. I currently log; Engine RPM Boost Lateral G Longitudinal G Front wheel speed (swap from left to right depending on the circuit) Voltage Logger temperature (cabin temperature) Oil pressure Water Temp Lap times That enables me to draw a track map and compare speeds all around the track over different laps. The Pi System 2 also has programable warnings, so I don't have to display all the sensor readings, it flashes and then displays if any of the readings goes below/above a preprogrammed level. For example it doesn't display oil pressure unless it goes below 20 psi. I have one spare channel, so I switch between EGT (GReddy gauge), fuel pressure, water pressure, inlet air temperature and A/F ratio (as output by the W02). The Datalogit records all of the engine stuff, but only if I have the lap top plugged in. The Tech Edge W02 logs the A/F ratios, engine RPM, throttle position, AFM voltage and boost. I can link and compare all of the data via engine rpm. It takes me about a week of nights to compare all of the data from a weekend's racing. At the track I simply look at lap times and speeds around the track Looking for somewhere to go faster, that's what it's all about. I do glance at the oil pressure and water temps as an early warning. So plenty of choices there for you . Cheers Gary

Some additional bits; The chrome molly cage in a V8Supercar is 20kgs lighter and 20% stronger than an equivalent steel tube (say CDS 350). Welding chrome molly is pretty well documented now, and testing after welding is not generally required any more. Keeping in mind that CM has to be TIG welded, CDS is OK with MIG welding. The material required for a CDS 350 6 point cage with side intrusion costs around $1,000, CM is betwen 2 and 3 times that. Using a professional engineer for an FIA standard roll cage analysis costs around $1,700 for the more complex designs. Using a standard CAMS/FIA design avoids the requirement for analysis. A decent CAMS FIA standard CDS 6 point roll cage with side intrusion bars and the necessary padding would cost around $4,500 to have made in a recognised workshop. Add $1,500 to $2,000 for a CM equivalent. Check that Jap cage out well before you buy it and compare its specs to the CAMS/FIA ones. Many have pieces that comply even though the whole cage might not. What did I do? I simply couldn't justify spending that sort of money for the types of events I do. So I bought a used Jap made 6 point (no side intrusion) cage for $600 that came unwanted in an imported car. I immedialtely set about improving the footings to CAMS/FIA standard as they were considerably undersized. I also added some B pillar tags to the seat belt mounts. That cost about $50 for materials and around 3 hours of MIG welding. I also made, at the same, time some underfloor strengtheners the same shape, as the cage didn't come with them. I upspeced the fasteners to M10 high tensile allen bolts, as what came with the cage were uncoded, that cost $80. That's about it for now, so far I haven't had any issues with scrutineering at club level events. So for a bit over $700 and half a days work I have a car that I feel much safer in. As a bonus it now responds better to set up changes, so there is obviously some chassis rigidity increase. The plans Other than the main hoop and the (bent) front legs, all of the the other bars in the cage are CAMS/FIA spec. So if I ever want to go an open race meeting I will have to replace the main hoop at the very least. That's not such a big exercise as there are several guys that will bend one up to duplicate the current shape, cost would be around $200 in CDS 350. MIG weld on the necessary mounts for the existing rear sections and it's a CAMS/FIA legal 4 point. The front is were the hard work is involved, I would have to measure and draw up what I want as the existing (bent) design can't be used. At the same time I would do side intrusion and (legal for Improved Production) extensions through the firewall to the strut towers. Taking the dash and windscreen out to fit and weld in the front sections is the time consuming bit. I haven't added up the bits precisely but I suspect around $1,000 all up would easily cover it. In the end I would have a legal CAMS/FIA 10 point cage with side intrusion that cost around half what getting one made would cost, plus 2 to 3 days of my time. The big advantage is that I have spread the cost out and I didn't have to find $4.5K all at once. Cheers Gary

The GCG ball bearing high flow Group Buy ($1750) is still OK. Note that 265 rwkw = 450 bhp. Which is what you will get if it is tuned properly. cams (Tomie Poncams) will give you 10 rwkw more. Do you want to take your turbo off and send it to me for high flowing? That usually takes 1 week plus delivery time. Or do you want me to send you one that has already been high flowed? That way you can do the swap in one day, that way you won’t be without your car for a week or so. All you do is transfer $500 deposit which Jamex refunds when your turbo arrives and is checked by GCG. Jamex sends the high flowed turbo direct to you in a box, it has a return Toll Priority con note already filled out inside. You then put your old turbo in the same box, stick the con note on the front and call Toll (13 15 31) who come and pick it up. Payment is required at the time of placing the order Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. Please don't forget to send me full name and address for the order plus a contact phone number for the courier in case they need directions or instructions if no one is home. Jamex usually have a high flowed turbo in stock waiting. Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I will PM you the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. Cheers Gary

Measure the stroke again, if you didn't use a dial guage last time, then use one this time. Rotate the crank such that the piston is at the top of the bore (TDC), and zero the dial gauge. Then rotate the crank 1/2 a turn until it is at the bottom of the bore (BDC). The distance the piston travelled is the stroke. The previous engine builder would have fitted the 1.8 mm had gasket to lower the compression ratio. The same sized combustion chamber with more capacity (bore and stroke) means higher compression ratio. The 1.8 mm head gasket effectively increases the capacity of the combustion chamber and hence lowers the compression ratio. Personally I am not a fan of thick head gaskets, for one they stuff up the squish and cause detonation. Cheers Gary

Pistons have no effect on stroke. Stroke is the distance the piston travels up and down the bore. Whether it has high or low gudget pins makes no difference to the stroke. Cheers Gary

I defy anyone to tell the difference in sound between an RB30 at 7,000 rpm and an RB30 at 7,500 rpm, listening inside or outside the car.. In fact anything over 6,000 rpm sounds like a lot because of the size of each bang, keeping in mind that it's 20% bigger than a RB26 bang. An R25/B26 can be a bit buzzy, so you need the rpm to sound tough, whereas an RB30 is noticeably deeper in its note. With the old RB30 in the GTR I was always getting comments like "I didn't think RB30's revved to 8,000". They don't, the standard tacho just reads 6% high, but I kept forgetting to tell them Cheers Gary

If you include the diameter of the wheel then you are correct, but the tolerance then is around 1%. My 3% rule of thumb on sidewall height makes it easy to calculate on the fly, that's why I use it. The real calculation should of course be the circumference of the tyre, usually expressed as revolutions per kilometre on tyre charts. Or 2PiR in high school maths' terms. Cheers Gary

Physically impossible, a strut brace is not connected to the wheels, so how does it reduce body roll? You have not increased the spring rate (the springs do that) You have not increased the anti roll (the swaybars/stabiliser bars do that) You have not increased the damper rate (that's shocks) You have not changed the roll centre (changing the suspension arms mounting points) You have not changed the centre of gravity (moved weight lower in the chassis) Hence the roll couple remains unchanged (RoC - CoG = RC) You have not increased the vertical load capability of the suspension mounts (a roll cage does that) All you have done is to connected two pieces of body work together, at the front that will help to maintain the suspension geometry under side load, mostly camber. At the rear they virtually do nothing. So please educate me, how does fitting a strut brace reduce roll? Cheers Gary

Maybe try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 Cheers Gary

Perhaps you may want to read this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...ck-t203084.html Then try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 Cheers Gary