Sydneykid

Try the Power FC FAQ cheers

From memory (it's been a while since I had a set) the 20B injectors are the same as 1JZ & 2JZ, so they need adaptor rings, same as aftermarket SARD injectors. You can buy them separately anyway, so if the 20B injectorrs are cheap enough, grab them. Be careful though, I think they have 3 injectors at around 370 cc's and 3 at 550 cc's. Not all six flow the same. cheers

Hi Josh, the nitrogen is there to squeeze out the air bubbles that are generated when the hydraulic fluid flows though the piston/valves. The range to accomplish that is usually 30 to 40 psi. That pressure is so low it doesn't change the "rebound" (your terminology) enough to notice when fitted to the car. You might be able to feel a difference with your hand, but that's hardly comparable to 1.5 tonnes of car. I should point out that rebound is the term applied to the extension of the shock shaft out from the shock body. Bound is the compression of the shock shaft in towards the shock body, more commonly called bump. Because compression of the shock happens when the car hits a bump. Bilstein runs much higher nitrogen pressure than that, but the valving is designed to handle it. I wouldn't be running more than 30 to 40 psi, unless you have something from the shock manufacturer that says otherwise. cheers

Nope, same as the front. Once you do the bump steer correction, it won't change unless you change the length or pick up points of the control arms. Changing toe settings should have zero effect on bump steer. cheers

My understanding has always been that the Nismo 65 mm AFM’s are simply the standard GTR AFM bodies fitted with Z32 sensors. Hence the Z32 selection on the PFC AFM table is pretty damn close, in fact so close that it doesn’t affect the tuning process. I haven’t tuned with Nismo AFM’s, but I have used standard GTR AFM bodies fitted with Z32 sensors and that’s what we did to do the tuning. It worked fine, the car ran perfectly and was as easy to tune as any other GTR with a PFC ie; simple and straight forward. cheers

Jaycar EBC Jaycar DFA Apexi SITC HKS SLD Nismo cat back (very quiet) Catco high flow cat R34GTT SMIC Pipercross panel filter Feels like around 160 4wkw at the moment Plus the following, after this weekend, since I have to remove it all to replace the cracked exhaust manifold Performance Metalcraft split dump and engine pipe combo, Thermo wrapped of course GCG Ball Bearing High Flow turbo, I have put the smaller compressor housing on it, as I want to make sure it looses nothing for towing. Then a road tune by me, planning on running up to the max that the standard injectors, at standard pressure, can handle. If I think it needs more power, then I will stick a bolt on Nismo FPR on it and turn up the fuel pressure. That should test out the rumour that Stagea fuel pumps flow more that R33GTST fuel pumps. The target always has been 200 4wkw (double what it had standard), so I will throw it on the dyno to confirm that the target has been achieved. cheers

By resetting a spring what you are doing is reducing its free height, so the car sits lower. If done properly, that’s OK. So when you ask a spring maker if it is technically all right, they will say yes. But the suspension engineer (and experienced suspension workshops) will say no, it isn’t OK. What you now have is the same spring rate, but with less suspension travel. This means that the car has less capacity to absorb bumps before it runs out of travel. What you feel is a sudden stop as the shock slams into its bump stop. Bump stops are tough (they have to be) so the shock rebounds rapidly away from that contact. So you get a double discomfort in the ride quality, a sudden stop and a fast rebound. If you do this with standard shocks, which have very limited damping, then the effect is even worse because the rebound is faster. So fast, that it can in effect lift the wheel off the ground. Think pogo stick. That’s is why, when we are designing lowered springs, we look to increasing the spring rate at the same time. That way the extra rate compensates for the lesser amount of travel. Hope that made some sense cheers

You got it Jason, plus the front strut top if you aren't going to use the ones you already have. cheers

Remove the inner end bolt, pop the end of the arm up and twist the eccentric crush tube. It's a fiddle, but you only have to do it the first time you install them. Cheers

Every time I see an unmarked police car exceeding the speed limit, I ring the local cops and dob them in. I decline to leave my name (of course). Once a week I ring talk back radio and complain, sometimes they let me read out the rego numbers. If they want to be unmarked, then they have to obey the law just like everyone else. If we all do the same then they will have to take them off the roads, they are dangerous and should not be allowed. cheers

For those that haven't already read it, the following thread has the results of the testing on an air deflector and ambient air scoop for the Stagea (so applies to Skylines). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55489 cheers

I thought I would bump this for the new guys who maybe haven't considered the Bass Junky air deflector and ambient air intake scoop combo. It is definitely a worthwhile mod. cheers

Try it after you have been sitting in traffic for a while. Be carefull don't burn your hand. Or after waiting for the red light to go out. cheers

Intercoolers remove a % of the temperature difference between the compressor outlet air temp and the ambient air temp. Usually a typical intercooler is around 70% efficient in temperature drop terms. Once you know that it's simple maths. So if the ambient temperature is 15 degrees The inlet air temp is also 15 degrees (ie; good ambient air intake) The compressor outlet air temp is 60 degrees Then the maths are; 60 - 15 = 45 x 70% = 31.5 drop across the intercooler So the air temp out of the intercooler is 60 - 31.5 = 28.5 degrees So if the ambient temperature is 15 degrees The inlet air temp is now 50 degrees (ie; no ambient air intake, sucking hot air from under the bonnet) The compressor outlet air temp is now 60 - 15 + 50 = 105 degrees Then the maths are; 105 - 15 = 90 x 70% = 63 degree So the air temp out of the intercooler is 105 - 63 = 42 degrees A common rule of thumb is 5% horsepower drop for an 8% increase in engine inlet air temperature So if you have a 400 bhp engine it will loose around 42 - 28.5 = 13.5 / 42 = 32% / 8 % x 5% = 20% in horsepower So you just lost 80 bhp (400 x 20%) by having no decent ambinet air feed. Do the maths for yourself, a crappy FMIC might be 65% efficient and really great one might be 75%. See if you can make up for not having a decent heat shield and ambient air feed by spending 3 times as much on a better intercooler. As the great flannel man once said "I don't think so Tim". cheers

Holiday, what holiday? My next one is October, going to Florida for a Space Shuttle launch, then to Vegas for the SEMA show. cheers

Step 1, fix whatever is broken or worn out and then get the wheel alignment correct. This usually means some adjustable bushes for caster, camber and rear subframe alignment. Step 2, stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Road or track. Step 3, shock absorber upgrade, if the standard shocks were OK in step 1 then it is now time to upgrade. Step 4, aftermarket springs if you want a lower height than can be achieved with standard springs and aftermarket shocks (ie; The Bilsteins in the Group Buy come with additional circlip grooves which enable you to lower it using the standard springs. Around 24 mm works very well). Check out the Group Buy for your particular model; R33GTST http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 R32GTR http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 R34GTT http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 R32GTST http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 etc cheers

That might be too technical a question to answer in the time available. cheers

OOOH goody, a chance to get technical. Let’s start off with what I do when fitting adjustable rear camber bushes, as most people know I don’t use aftermarket arms, but the principles are the same. First thing is to stick the car on the wheel aligner and set the toe to where I want it. Let’s say 2 mm toe in each side. Then I remove the upper control arms and the traction rods and fit the adjustable bushes. Put them back in the car and adjust the camber to where I want it. Let’s say 1.25 degrees negative. Then I check the toe alignment, it should be 2 mm toe in each side. If it isn’t, I use the traction rods (not the tie rods) to correct the toe. Why? Because this means the car now has the same amount of bump steer that it had with the standard arms (and bushes) in it. Basically as Nissan designed it. Sometimes it is necessary to go back and readjust the camber, but it is usually just a fine tune, if anything at all. If you haven’t followed the above process, then you most likely have stuffed the bump steer, and it is rear steering all over the place. Like it still had HICAS but worse for traction. So what do you do? You need a bump steer gauge, although you can do it on the wheel aligner, if you go about it the right way. This is what I do; First thing is to remove the rear wheels, then the spring and shock units from the car. Put the rear wheels back on and use axle stands to set it at the normal ride height. Then check the alignment, using the above it should still be 2mm toe in. Now jack the rear suspension up 50 mm and check the toe settings, it should still be 2mm toe in. Then jack the rear suspension up another 50 mm and check the toe settings, it should still be 2mm toe in. Now drop it down 150 mm and check the toe, it should still be 2mm toe in. Another 50 mm down, same toe, 2 mm in. Swap over and do the other side, same process, 4 measurements at 4 different heights. If the toe is always 2 mm in on both sides, then you have zero bump steer. But if the toe changes as you go up and down, then you have to adjust the traction rods until you eliminate the bump steer. This can take a few goes on each side, as small adjustments are required. The final step is to make that the camber is still the desired 1.25 degrees negative both sides. If you want to have some fun, try going up another 50 mm (to 150 mm) in the suspension travel. Then watch the bump steer and camber go all to shit. That’s why it’s a stupid idea to lower Skylines much below 340 mm at the rear. Good luck and happy measuring : cheers

Workshops will sometimes lock it if you ask for warranty on their tune. Otherwise you could change the settings, blow up the engine as a result, then change the settings back and claim warranty. It is simply protection for them when they give warranty. cheers

It's a race car, lean it out to 12.25 to 1 and add 2 psi of boost. There's another 50 bhp in there, just gotta find it. cheers

Depends on the ride height. At standard ride height, 375 mm (centre of wheel to guard), they have 0.25 degrees negative standard. Plus 0.25 degrees on the standard adjuster, plus 0.75 degrees with one KCA347 kit = 1.25 degrees negative. With 2 x KCA347 kist that's 2.00 degrees negative. At the lowest recommended ride height, 340 mm (centre of wheel to guard), they have 1.75 degrees negative. Plus 0.25 degrees on the standard adjuster, plus 0.75 degrees with one KCA347 kit = 2.75 degrees negative. With 2 x KCA347 kist that's 3.25 degrees negative. As usual, that varies slightly from car to car. cheers

Why is it 10% out? Have you changed the tyre diameter? D Cheers

Unfortunately they are only available for R33GTR's and R34GTR's. cheers

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you could n’t get a message though over the last couple of days please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you could n’t get a message though over the last couple of days please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers