Sydneykid

Water 82 to 85 and oil 90 to 100. cheers

Hi Trent, thanks for the EManage update, it fills in a whole pile of gaps. From a tuners perspective I read a lot of what it will do, but very little about what it won't do. For example; 1. Does it handle ignition retard and cut for autos? 2. Is there a limit to the injector size? 3. What parts of the standard ECU control does it leave untouched? 4. Does it have a boost control option? 5. Does it allow for inlet air temp compensation? 6. How is the cold start and run tuning? 7. Anything else that you can think of that you would like it to have or that a Power FC has? cheers

Oil temps needs to be over 100 degrees to "boil off" the water that it aborbs in normal daily running. Hence 90 to 100 degrees is 100% normal. cheers

I think the original poster should include the full specs with the dyno graph, that would avoid 99% of the questions. cheers

Very interesting, some questions; What o’rings/spacers/adaptors are used to fit the R34GTT (top feed) injectors to the R33GTST (side feed) manifold? Why can’t you use the R34GTT throttle body? The throttle butterfly is the same ID, is it the bolt spacing that’s different? Possible to use/make an adaptor? What throttle cable is used? cheers

Tomei Poncams in RB25's work the best of any of the bolt in cams we have tried, 256's in R33's (hydraulic) and 260's in R34's (solid). cheers

There is usually enough flex in the pipwork and length in the silicone joiners to accomodate the extra 38 mm of height. RB20/25/30 head bolts are 11mm and RB26 are 12mm, despite the presence of locators, I would be reluctant to leave 1/2mm of float around the head bolts. cheers

I don't think you would have to change the external dimensions 1 mm. All you need to do is extend the collector away from the flange. All 6 cylinders have to have flowing access to the wastegate pipe. The LOWER the boost, the BETTER the wastegate has to work. It has to allow MORE exhaust gas to bypass the turbine. Higher boost means less exhaust needs to be bypassed. So, I don't think that the spring change will help much in controlling boost in this case. cheers

Hence my choice of the word "seen" cheers

Fitting the new, adjustable, polyurethane bushes is easy, can be done a vice. But removing the old, fixed, rubber bushes is hard, needs a press, usually around 10 tonnes. On the Group Buy; For GTR's = KCA331 Caster Kit $110.00 For GTST's = KCA332 Caster Kit $110.00 Plus $10 freight cheers

As usual, the tyres are the limiting factor. Past experience has taught me that a set of properly maintained standard R32GTR brakes with decent pads and fluid will outstop any road tyre. cheers

This thread shows you how to measure the RSR springs then I can work out the spring rates for you. The answer to your question will be pretty obvious once we know the spring rates. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 cheers

Both, personally I find very little difference between them. cheers

We are now using a DBA 5000 Series rotors 336 mm (diam) x 32 mm (thick) rotor with the standard callipers. No cracking problems in 11 outings. Yep, ~450 rwhp will leave them far enough behind down the straight so that they can't make it up under brakes and on turn in. As far as weight reduction goes, 50 kgs is noticeable and 100 kgs makes a heap of difference. Way back when we did the HICAS removal and replaced the stainless exhaust with a titanium one, we saved 45 kgs and the driver immediately noticed it. Dropped around 0.2 secs from memory. cheers

The separation (wastegate exhaust & turbine exhaust) isn't long enough. There are beter ones around, try the Group Buy section cheers

I always try not to pick on peoples own creations, but I am sure that you are going to have ongoing problems with controlling boost with that exhaust manifold. The problem is the wastegate take off pipe/pipes is/are only relieving back pressure from 2 cylinders. The other 4 cylinders are hitting the turbine at an undiminished rate. You really need to make the collector longer, so that the merged gases (all of them) have the chance to “escape” via the wastegate. Take cylinders #2 & #5 for example, there is simply no way that exhaust gas (pressure) can get from them and then out the wastegate pipe/pipes. The merge collector (collectors if you are full split pulse) need to be at least 100 mm deep. Compared to around 20mm looking at the photos. Plus I would run the separate (2) wastegate pipes for at least 100 mm before merging them. Compared to around 15 mm looking at the photos. cheers

Yep, that'll be it, you need another 100 bhp. For example Evo 6's weigh ~1280 kgs standard, and produce around 300 rwhp with the usual exhaust and boost up mods. So you are getting done severely (16%) on the power to weight ratio. Hence you need an additional 50 rwhp to break even in the power to weight stakes. Even with an extra 50 rwhp, they are still going to beat you on stopping power to weight and tyres size to weight ratios. So I reckon another 50 rwhp would make up for that. Hence the 100 bhp increase (to 400 rwhp). cheers

That’s has been my experience. Although "flaw" may be a bit heavy, more like " an untuned area". cheers

As any suspension expert will confirm, stabiliser bars are THE best value for money handling upgrade you can do, road or track. cheers

Surface rust ON suspension arms is quite common. If it worries you, take them off, a quick whip over with a wire brush and a can of black spray paint will have them looking like new. cheers

It's all about weight ratios. You are giving away a couple of hundred kgs to cars with similar power and most likely the same tyres and brakes. So you need to up the power to around 600 bhp and shed some of that GTR weight. cheers

All auto Nissans have ignition retard and/or cut on the gearchange. It helps protect the band/clutchpacks from excessive loading. It also smooooths out the gearchange. cheers

I have had 5 Skylines with Power FC's, 2 currently, and none of them have that problem. It is easily eliminated with some attention to the off boost and low boost load points on the ignition maps. The default maps are a bit retarded in several places and most tuners only pay attention to the on boost load points and ignore the others. cheers

You are kidding! Mine did the same, it started to make exhaust leak noises a couple of weeks ago, which gradually got worse. So yesterday I thought I would tighten up the manifold nuts, they are the usual culprit. Been puting it off as the heat shielding is always a bitch to get off. With the heat shielding (finally) off I was amazed to see a cracked exhaust manifold, all the way around the log between #3 primary pipe and the turbine flange. I have never seen that happen before, and now I read the above. I will post up some pictures tonight. cheers

Standard suspension? cheers