Sydneykid

A simplification follows. The common pedal movement ratio is between 5.5 and 7.5 to 1 ie; the pedal moves 70 mm and the master cylinder piston moves 10 mm. This give a 7 to 1 leverage ratio, ie 100 kgs on the pedal = 700 kgs on the piston You also generally want around 50 mm of pedal movement (varies from car to car) but that is enough to give some progression. Average guys can push around 150 kgs with their right leg, with a stab on the brake pedal. More than that and you loose feel, much less and it becomes too touchy. (Road cars are, of course, set up for less effort than that) So 150 kgs at the pedal means 1050 kgs on the master cylinder piston. The next step is to look at the specs of the brake pads that you are running. They should tell you a rule of thumb pressure that the pads "likes" plus you will need the diameter and the number of the pistons in each calliper. That's pretty much all the information you need, now it is simply a matter of maths. For example if you have a pad that "likes" 3000 kgs then you need around 3 to 1 hydraulic ratio. If you want 50 mm of pedal travel you need (allowing for 1 mm of pad knock off) a master cylinder piston that is around one 30th the surface area of the pistons in a pair of 4 piston callipers. (ie; a 50 mm calliper pistons needs around a 20 mm master cylinder piston). Obviously this varies from car to car, pad compound to pad compound and calliper to calliper. There is nothing black magic about brake hardware, simple high school maths gives you the answers you need. The real tricks (secrets) are in pad compounds and temperature control. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I should also mention the excessive predilection with rotor diameter, when experience has taught me that rotor thickness is in many ways more important when it comes to temperature handling capacity. Not to mention the ever present penchant for cracking rotors. Keeping in mind that often cracked rotors are caused by bad driver habits, rather than any under sizing in the rotor itself. As an example, I recently changed one of the race cars from a 343 mm x 30 mm rotor to a 336 mm x 32 mm rotor. The small reduction in overall rotor diameter overcame a premature front brake lock up problem and gave the driver better feedback. The extra rotor thickness overcame a temporary pad/rotor over heating problem. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I hear a lot about feel, Roy raises some good points in that area. However most of the feel comes from things other than rotor diameter. Things like pad compound and hose selection (braided versus rubber) and sometimes the mystical calliper flex. However testing has shown me that standard Nissan 4 spot (Sumitomo) callipers don't have excessive flex. For example at the start of last season we did an upgrade from a pair of Sumitomo 4 spot callipers to monoblock AP Racing 4 spot callipers. The data logging showed ZERO increase in G forces, ZERO increase in pedal travel and the driver (more importantly) reported no discernable difference in feel. The control tyres were the limiting in braking performance, not the actual brakes themselves. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lastly you shouldn’t over look the issue of the weight of the rotor and its effect on the handling and acceleration (positive and negative) of the car. We use rotors that weight from 8.0 kgs to 10.6 kgs, and we have to use different shock absorber settings to compensate for the difference in unsprung weight. In addition larger diameter/heavier rotors can be viewed simply as flywheels, adding 5.2 kgs to the front “flywheels” certainly uses up some horsepower that would otherwise be used to accelerate the car. Not to mention the extra weight when it comes to slowing the car down (braking). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In summary, despite what the sellers would have you believe, you CAN have brakes that are too big, brakes that actually increase your lap times. That's bad value for money in any one's terms. cheers

This thread runs through why having lowered springs and standard shocks is not a good idea. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=103158&hl As for heights not being too low, what are they, centre of wheel to guard on all 4 corners? If they are less than 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, then it is too low for good handling and decent ride comfort. Since the car is "just imported" then chances are they won't be Lovells (Australian) springs. My guess is some brand of Japanese springs, not a well known one, since none of them are that colour blue. This thread tells you how to measure the spring rates; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 That way I can tell whether they are stupid Japanese rates or not. Since they are progressively wound, you will have to tell me the gaps between the coils. For example, in a 10 coil spring, 5 coils are 10 mm apart and 5 coils are 20 mm apart. The Whiteline springs in the Group Buy are $144 a pair, so not a big expense if the ones that you currently have are not suitable. Reply PM sent regarding your query on Group Buy prices etc cheers

I thought the answer was obvious, get the right sized master cylinders as recommended by the calliper manufacturer. I say "cylinders" (plural) because it is most unlikely that you will find a tandem master cylinder that will properly match any decent calliper upgrades. cheers

I take it you are looking for discussion on poor idle (and return to idle) due to airflow reversion back though the AFM from the compressor of a large turbocharger. If that’s the case, then it has been covered many times. For a detail discussion try a search on “reversion” and perhaps “EIDS” which is the HKS electronic circuit for overcoming such problems. In simple terms, use the largest inlet pipework you can, put as much distance between the compressor inlet and the AFM as possible. If all else fails grab an EIDS or relocate the AFM to the pipework on the compressor outlet, before or after the intercooler. Then retune the engine with those items in place. cheers

I assume you are aware that you will not be able to use your current (standard) brake master cylinder in conjunction with any decent brake upgrade. The hydraulic ratios will be wrong, in addition to the leverage and movement ratios of the pedal and consequently you will most likely end up with one or more of the following; 1. A long brake pedal (excessive motion) 2. A heavy brake pedal (excessive force required) 3. An imbalance in the front to rear braking distribution (premature front or rear brake lock up) I see so many cars that have had extensive/expensive calliper and rotor upgrades, that stop worse than standard. Adds up to a big waste of money, for no benefit. cheers

There are ZERO, NONE, NOT ANY connections on the front power steering rack that go to the rear. They have NOTHING to do with the HICAS. The HICAS and the NON HICAS front power steering racks are exactly the same. cheers

EVO's have different movement and leverage ratios that Skylines. For example 8 kg/mm spring rate in the front of an an EVO is the same rate at the wheel (which is all that matters) as a 6.5 kg/mm in the front of an R32/33/34 Skyline. cheers

GCG Ball Bearing high flow $1750, made 275 rwkw, did 11.9 for 1/4 mile at 120 mph. cheers

Not so much of a problem these days with high octane fuel and ethanol eg; Shell V Power Racing 100 ron with 5% ethanol. cheers

More correctly put it would be that there are other stresses, RPM being the most dangerous. cheers

Simple, one turbo = one AFM Just parrallel up the wiring from the one AFM so the PFC gets 2 signals. The only reason you would go for 2 x Z32 AFM's is if your power target exceeds the capacity of one Q45 AFM. That's around 650 bhp, but it does vary from car to car. cheers

This thread has all the details on the SMIC's http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...1&hl=R34GTT cheers

1. I don't drive it enough to enjoy the superior handling from the double wishbone suspension all round 2. I don't have enough time to fit all the parts I have for it in the garage 3. The fuel tank isn't big enough when towing the race car (which also has double wishbone suspension all round) 4. People keep wanting to borrow it, fast waggons are not exactly common 5. I keep thinking what it would be like if I just slipped an RB31DET into it cheers

PM sent cheers

Sorry for the delay, our local area got hit by the lightening in last week's storm and our internet connections are down. Telstra says it might be next Tuesday until we have service restored. I have been using a borrowed computer and internet connection. To work out spring rates, I need to have my engineering computer connected. I have copied this latest info onto a jump drive and I will work them out tonight on my computer, then post the results tomorrow using this computer. You don't realise how much you rely on an internet connection until it's not there. Cheers

As per the PM, decking the block 0.5mm is no big deal, neither is skimming the cylinder head the same amount. We do it ALL the time. They are SOME valve fly cuts, I can't imagine how much lift you would need on the cams to need that much clearance. Since 9.5 mm needs zero fly cuts. cheers

I would add that rotors tend to be LHD, because the exhaust (turbo) and the inlet are on the RHS. Similarly for 1JZ's and 2JZ's where the turbo is on the RHS of the engine. cheers

It really needs to come down 10 to 15 mm in the rear. Something for you to think about. The Bilstein shocks in the Group Buy have additional circlip grooves so that you can set the ride height to where you want it before you install them. I can tell you what height each grooves gives. cheers

Bilstein Australia have received advice that a small number (around 20) rear shocks for R32GTR's are being sent from Germany later this week. They are being air freighted and, depending on customs clearance, should be available around the 20th March. Obviously this is a very small number, so I strongly suggest that anyone waiting on ordering that you do it now. They will go quickly, so don't delay too long. cheers

PM sent cheers

As long as it is a 6 pack of Jack Daniels cheers

On the race cars and the road cars we only use; Premier Panel Beating 67 Rosedale Ave Greenacre NSW 2190 ph: (02) 9790 6960 cheers PS; the R33GTST will be in there later this week getting the RHS front fixed where some clown changed lanes into it.

His brain, his right hand and the key to turn the ignition off when it is time to do so. cheers

Hi Ben, if the pump fails, the engine stops, no damage there. They usually start to make noises before they die completely. If you are using a standard computer, then the knock mapping will save your ass. If you are using a Power FC, the knock warning will flash on the dash. Not a lot of risk there. cheers

Installed an R32GTR standard fuel pump into an R32GTST in 1999 and it is still going strong (185,000 ks). Installed a used R32GTR standard fuel pump into an R32GTR in 2000 and it is still going strong (80,000 ks). Installed a used Z32 (same as R32GTR) fuel pump into an R32GTST race car in 2002 and it is still going strong. Now used as a lift pump. Installed a used R32GTR standard fuel pump into an R33GTST in 2006 and it is still going strong (30,000 ks). and a few more........... cheers