Sydneykid

45 litres of 91 ron + 15 litres of toluene = ~96 ron cheers

A 3.25" exhaust will touch the ground under the rear subframe before you need shorter rear shocks. If you use a shorter shock, how are you going to get around the lower spring seat clearance to tyre problem? cheers

A couple of interesting facts; HRT is "owned" by a company that Skaife is the major shareholder of Toll racing is "owned" by a company that the Kellys are the major shareholder of Tom Walkinshaw is the Genral Manager of both teams They operate out of side by side facilities in Clayton That's why Tega HALVES their practice days, so other (2 car) teams get TWICE as many practice days. Harry Firth started the Holden Dealer Team with money mostly from Holden, even though GMH had a world wide "no motor racing" policy. Larry Perkins STARTED the later day driver swapping in 1982 Although it could be argued that Bob Jane and Harry Firth really started it in 1961. There have been over 40 driver "swaps" between cars and teams for Bathurst/Sandown Peter Brock not only swapped drivers, he swapped CARS to win Bathurst in 1983 and 1987 So, very little is new in motor racing politics. cheers

If you are changing the valving, then you are better off using the R33GTST rear shock. cheers

Use the rpm probe on the dyno, it goes on the ignitor loop, where the timing light goes. Or input the tyre size and diff ratio into the DD computer and it will work out the engine RPM Piss off that Walbro fuel pump, they are shyte. The 550 bhp rating is for an N/A engine, they don't handle boost, as soon as the FPR compensates for boost pressure, the fuel flow drops of dramatically. Go Bosch, they are rated for flow at 73.5 psi, so plenty of head room for boost. cheers

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat) I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front cheers

Last prices due in today, so the S15 kits should be posted up late tonight. cheers

Yes cheers

You cut in the groove, so use the 350 mm position. cheers

Most times you pretty much destroy the old bushes, they get rusted in a bit. Occasionally they pop out a bit earier, but not very often. Never tried it with hammer and chisel, would be tough going I reckon. The replacements bushes fit in pretty easy, plastic hammer taps usually do the job. The eccentric, steel, crush tubes take a bit more effort, steel hammer needed sometimes. cheers

They break off all the time in racing, just weld it back on and reinforce weld the others while you are at it. cheers

I just used an air chissel, tap away at the raised lip on the bush outer. cheers

Be careful, Stageas weigh more than any other comparable Nissan, particularly over the rear wheels. So using an S14 or S15 shock in the rear is not a good idea. cheers

The spring's job is to hold the car up and absorb suspension movements to keep the tyres in contact with the road surface. The shock absorber’s job is to control the spring and the chassis (both the sprung and unsprung portions of the chassis). So the shocks control the movement of wheels and tyres. Keep in mind that tyres themselves are springs and they have no damper to control them. Just like any other form of unsprung weight, lighter wheels (and tyres) are easier for the shock to control. Shock absorber valving is not black and white, right or wrong. They operate in a window, so if you change the wheel weight (lighter or heavier) only a little bit (within the shock window) that should mean you will feel very little difference. But if you change the wheel weight a lot, then the shock may be operating outside its window. This is of course mostly noticeable with heavy wheels, the shock simply can't control them and traction is lost as a result. Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. Bilsteins have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting. So if you do change the weight of your wheels and don't have decent shock absorbers (with a large operating window) then you will have to compromise the rest of the set up by adjusting the shock to suite those wheels. If you don't have adjustment or good shocks, then the best tip is to keep any changes in wheel weight to a minimum. cheers

That is the steel outer of the standard bush, it isn't part of the upright. ie; it comes out. cheers

Forget about whether or not the RB26 head itself is "better", the fact is it will work out cheaper when you add it all up. Inlet manifold, multiple throttle bodies, plenum, top feed injectors, cams, solid followers, no VVT, adj camshaft pulleys, valves, valves springs etc etc. They are what makes an RB26 head the ONLY way to go. cheers

After you spend all that money on RB26 rods (inc ARP rod bolts) the Eagle rods will cost less and be stronger. cheers

Old news, very old news. Simply put there is ZERO advantage over an RB30 bottom end. No stronger, DET cylinder head doesn't bolt straight on, water and oil galleries are different, as is water pump and oil pump etc etc. I see nothing wrong with an 85 mm stroke and 86 mm bore (as in RB30), that's a pretty "square" engine (bore = stroke). Same as a BMW 3 litre 6 (as in M3) or a Toyota 2JZ. Neither of which are exactly bad engines. And of course an SR20 is 86 x 86 as well. cheers

When choosing a circuit car I always look at the 3 factors; Power to weight Brakes to weight Tyre size to weight Notice the common thread, “weight”. That’s the killer, if a car is too heavy for its power, brakes and tyres, then no matter what you do to it, it will always be slower than a lighter car with the same power, brakes and tyres. The fact is GTR’s are heavy, for example I busted my guts to get an R32GTR down to 1,360 kgs, but without any real effort, my R323GTST weighs 1,180 kgs. Simplistically the GTR would need 15% more power, 15% better brakes and 15% bigger tyres just to keep up. If I stick around 600 bhp in each one, with the same brakes and tyres, then the lighter one (the GTST) will be faster. But once I get over 700 bhp the GTST simply struggles to get the power to the ground and the GTR uses its 4wd traction to good effect. Another consideration, high powered GTR’s are faster over a race distance (than there 2wd competitors) because they are gentler on their rear tyres. However they may (or may not) be faster over 1 lap. That’s the problem with simply looking at individual lap times, there are plenty of examples of one lap screamers that are useless in a 20 minute race. Keeping the above in mind, I did my research long and hard before I bought the 1990 R32GTST M Spec (for $5K). I rejected buying another GTR on the weight and cost grounds. I rejected the S13/14/15 group because they were basically no lighter than the R32GTST, secondly because they had strut front ends and then lastly on engine grounds, I simply don’t like SR’s. I looked at buying an S13 with RB25DET, but it weighed the same as the R32GTST with RB30DET. So, there you have Sydneykid’s logic, flawed as it may well be cheers

Some things to keep in mind; 1. Increasing the static air bag pressure (spring rate) will increase the ride height 2. Unlike a linear rate coil spring, as the air bag compresses, the spring rate increases 3. The size of the airbag determines the rate of increase in "spring rate", a small bag increases the spring rate very rapidly 4. The shocks most likley won't have the valving to control that sort of variation in spring rate. 5. Stabiliser bars should be used to control roll, not springs and/or shocks. cheers

Hi Simon, based on my own R322GTST, there not enough weight difference to matter. But you will notice the power oversteer a little more due to the RB30's extra torque, so I back off the rear stabiliser bar 1 hole. cheers

The R33/34GTR front spring/shock units will fit, but the spring and damper rates are not ideal (read on for why). The R33/34GTR rear spring/shock units will not fit S1 or S2 autos, they will fit S2 manuals. But the spring and damper rates are not ideal because they are designed for a 2 door coupe, not a 4 door waggon. They are simply not designed to handle the changes in weight or height when carrying passengers and loads in the rear. Due to he weight distribution of the waggon and its higher rear CoG, the front to rear balance is noticeably different to a coupe. When I did the engineering of the Group Buy suspension kit for Jamex, I tested a large range of R33/34GTR GTST and GTS4 springs and shocks. I did not find a suitable spring in that combination. So the Group buy kits uses a unique (to R33/34) rear spring. I was paid by Jamex to do the engineering, so that the knowledge pertaining to the rear spring does not belong to me. So I can't tell you. Similar logic regarding the unique waggon weight and CoG also applies to the stabiliser bar rates and the alignment settings. cheers

Yes, there will be a kit specifically engineered for drift. It will feature larger adjustable stabilsier bars, which means you won't have to put up with excessive oversteer when not drifting. Yes, there will be specific recommended drfit alignment settings. cheers

Just for clarification, I have spoken to David on the phone and sorted the confusion out. He should have his shocks on Tuesday. cheers

I use Calumsult cheers