Sydneykid

Looks about right to me. I have gone up 10 mm since these pictures were taken, it was bit low with the race car on the back and full cargo bay of tools etc. cheers

Let's put the quotes in the right context; 1. "Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments." How many people know which way to adjust the damping to increase the grip? Most just simply go for the “harder is best” at both ends. You experienced guys know that is most times NOT the case. Increasing the damping may in fact result in LESS grip. If I have an understeering condition do I increase the damping on the front? Or decrease it? What about the rear, increase or decrease? By how much? Without experience, not at all easy questions to answer. Further complicating matters is the fact that damping adjustment is not a simple light switch operation. There are graduations and the effects of those graduations are on both front and rear and overall balance. So in a simple 12 step shock adjustment, front and rear, you can have 144 different settings. Which one is correct? For that day, on that track? Painful experience tells me that you can spend many many hours testing damper settings, trying to find the ideal set up. The average guy on SAU isn’t going to have that sort of time or expertise. So they would be much better off with a shock that doesn’t need that sort of fine tuning. Spend the time learning the track and improving their driving skills. There is more likely faster lap times in doing that, than endless fiddling with shock adjustments. When they get a bit more experienced then try a simple 3 step stabiliser bar adjustment. 2. “Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving”. Note the use of the word MOST, that doesn’t mean ALWAYS. There are some shocks whose adjustment is a worthwhile addition. I regularly mention them in my posts, for example Ohlins (the Swedish ones), Sach, Proflex, DMS, Penske, Dynamic and Bilstein. Their cost will mostly likely exceed most of the budgets on SAU, so whilst they are aspirational, the reality is very very few will achieve that level of need. Regardless of their budget, I still wouldn’t recommend even those brands to inexperienced guys. 3. The Bilstein B16 Ride Control kit is a re-active (self adjusting) kit and I certainly wouldn’t be recommending it for track use. Constantly changing damping characteristics is not something that drivers like, it makes it very difficult to pick the limit consistently. You should be demanding linear response to inputs, not unpredictable inconsistency. 4. I always get examples from guys in relation to their chosen brand of shock’s performance, the “I run XXXX and I beat everybody” claim. The fact is I have not seen one (not one) circuit race car in any class run Japanese shocks successfully. I can give you a tens of examples of cars that I have swapped from Japanese brand shocks to Bilsteins/Konis/Proflex/Ohlins etc that have achieved faster and more consistent lap times. Most recently I completed the engineering on the S15 Group Buy kit. One of the test cars was previously fitted with Teins, and the driver had considerable track and set up experience with them over a couple of years of running. I replaced that suspension with the Group Buy kit and the car (no other changes, same driver) was 1.25 seconds faster at Wakefield Park. When we changed the Improved Production GTR to Proflex shocks it was 15 seconds faster over 12 laps at Oran Park, that’s the length of the straight. The equivalent in going from 8th place to 2nd place in an evenly contested field. 5. I should also mention that I don’t make any money from selling suspension, my income comes from engineering it. If I find a superior solution, then I will use it. For example in the S15 kit I am using Noltec front strut tops, not Whiteline, because they better suite the rest of the kit. When I was engineering the Skylines suspension Group Buy kits I tested many Japanese brands. They have a wide range, they look nice and shiny, they are readily available at reasonable prices. But I didn’t choose them, why? Because they simply didn’t measure up to my standards. After all I had to put my name to the kits. In summary, I am simply putting forward my view point, based on my experience. Some people take head, others don’t, and that’s all right by me. My aim, after all, is simply to elevate the awareness on SAU of suspension and the various components and solutions available. cheers

Only until the tyres wear. cheers

Lots of possibilities, split drive shaft boot perhaps, leaking shocks maybe. The adjustment on caster bushes is an ecentric crush tune (inside the bush). Only way to know for sure is to undo one and have a look. cheers

Depends on the brand and style of shock cheers

As with everything, it depends on your power target. As soon as you are looking for more than 300 rwkw, with any sort of decent response, the RB26 head works out cheaper. cheers

Try a search "restriction" "Sydneykid" "any date" "Posts" That should turn up almost everything you need, then you can fill in the gaps with a PM. cheers

Shell V Power Racing 100 ron would be better, can you get that where you live? Boost is irrelevant, after all it is simply a measure of the restriction to airflow, when it is the airflow itself that makes the power. We run ~1.5 bar because we have removed the restrictions. cheers

If you are using an AFM or a map sensor for the load mapping then boost is irrelevant. You will need different maps for each type of fuel. Good luck with getting it run nicely on pump fuel with injectors big enough for methanol cheers

What fuel are you going to run to get the 750 bhp? We have achieved more than that with a pair of GTRS's on Elf Turbo Max. cheers

Do yourself a favour Rob, sell the RB25 top end and buy an RB26 top end. Far superior solution. much easier to work on, cheaper and eassier to get parts for (new and used), designed for circuit work and most of all IT IS CHEAPER when you add it up. T04Z + standard bottom end = not a good idea To keep the bottom end alive you are going to be running the T04Z way outside its efficiency. For circuit work you need response and you are simply not going to get it with that combination. cheers

This thread will show you how to measure your current springs, so that I can calculate the spring rates for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Once we know the spring rates, I can give you some idea of the way forward. Regarding excessive front end dive under brakes. Despite what some people will tell you, you don't need to run high spring rates to control the dive under brakes, we use the low frequency shock valving to more effectively do that. Leaving the high frequency shock valving with sufficient to subtleness for good tyre contact. You can’t achieve that sort of valving control with the unsophisticated valving found in Japanese shock absorbers. In addition you can run a little more anti dive in the front suspension geometry. I can show you how to do that as well. You haven’t mentioned stabiliser bars, as well as roll control, they are very useful for controlling diagonal weight transfer. The sort of weight transfer you get when trail breaking. Lastly if you improve the suspension and lift the cornering speed, maybe you won’t have to brake as hard anyway. Some things for you to think about. cheers

"DD" is that Daily Driving? Since you are going to set it at an appropriate height for track work, you obviously know how bad it is going to be, everyday, for handling, accelerating and braking. You are doing it simply for the low look, because EVERYTHING else is negatively affected in order to achieve that one thing. There is nothing wrong with that, as long as you accept the compromises that it causes. Don't try and fool yourself or anyone else reading this thread. Looking back on your "it wil be safe" comment, the truth is it will be SAFER (and faster) when you "raise it for the track". cheers

Hi, suggestions to your questions follow; 1. I have specific springs rates for different purposes, PM me some details about the car, engine power etc and what you intend to use it for. 2. Much of muchness, the Skylines have double wishbone front suspension which is a big advantage over MacPherson struts. SR's are lighter than RB's, and R33GTST's are heavier than S15's. So it probably all comes out pretty even, the S13/14/15 chassis is more manoeuvrable and the R33GTST more stable. 3. In comparison to the Bilsteins, Teins have simplistic valving and hence they work in a smaller range of conditions. Simply put, when Fulcrum revalve them for "Australian conditions" all they do is move that small window more "towards comfort on rough roads and away from handling on smooth roads". That simply isn't the case with Bilsteins, they have a much larger window. so they can do both. 4 What diameter coil springs do you have at the moment? Usually 62 mm. If so, then you will still be able to use them. But I am sure you are aware that they contribute nastily to the NVH, without offering any real handling advantage. 5. Actually MORE time, because the MacPherson strut front suspension is much harder to get right. There are inherent handicaps that had to be overcome. I have used 3 x S15's as the basis for tests over 6 months. One drives everyday and the owner wanted good ride comfort and good handling. The 2nd one wanted OK road driving with the capacity to do the odd circuit day without changing anything. The 3rd car is not daily driven, needed to be able to be driven to and from the circuit and then make changes for faster lap times, then driven home. All without the need to regularly visit a chiropractor. This is, of course, in addition to the original engineering I did for Whiteline on their S14 kit, plus 3 years of working with a Production Class S15 circuit race car. Hope that answered your questions, if not ask away. Cheers

With the RB20DET and 220 rwkw, 225 kph on turn in to the kink before the chase at Bathurst. It probably sneaks up a bit from there in the short straight, but I was too busy to look. cheers

So the idea is to have it at a low height for shows and then a more sensible height for actually driving? cheers

It had the standard deck in it. The yellow and black wire definitely did not go to the deck. Mine and Burns are exactly the same, check back a couple of pages and you will see his post. cheers

The seller has revised the following item information: Date Time Revised Information 21-Feb-07 19:11:59 AEDST See Description Subtitle Minimum Bid Price Title PictureURL: Pictures Added/Deleted Details Description Gallery Category Private Designation Reserve Price Item Specifics: - Automobiles Changed Type from Commercial Vehicle to Sedan Changed Doors from 2 to 4 Changed Date of Manufacture from -- to 1999 Changed Colour from Brown to Purple Changed Engine Number from -- to RB26DETT Changed Kilometres from 32435 to 2185 Changed Manufacturer from Ford to Nissan Changed Model from Falcon to Skyline Changed Transmission from Automatic to Manual Changed Engine Size from 534 litre to 2.6 litre Hmmmmmmmmm? cheers

Hi Luke, what do you mean by "powered up the yellow and black wire"? In mine the yellow and black wire is connected at both ends, one end heads off down the back and the other end goes into the dashboard wiring harness. So did you cut the yellow and black wire and supply +12v to one end? If so, which end? Or did you supply 12 volts to both ends? cheers

The problems that I have seen are not usually guys with GTR’s on their first day out, but after they have had a couple of outings. They fit some sticky tyres, get the suspension set up, some decent rotors, brake fluid and pads and start to learn the fast way around a track. Then the oil surge problem raises its ugly head, mostly the engines are fairly standard, boost up, exhaust etc. They start using higher rpm more consistently, generating higher G forces both round corners and with later/ heavier braking and acceleration. The problem is the more consistent higher rpm moves more oil into the cam covers which doesn’t have time to drain back into the sump. The higher G forces further slow down that draining, particularly cornering and braking. Plus they cause the oil to move away form the oil pick up in the sump. It only takes a few revolutions of the crankshaft to cause bearing failure. At 6,000 rpm, 6 crankshaft revolutions takes 0.06 secs, you won’t even notice that on the oil pressure gauge, especially mid corner. An oil cooler will not help you with oil surge, however it will help keep the oil temperature within a decent operating range. An extra litre won’t do it either, more like a 3 litre overfill would be necessary. But then the spinning crank would hit the oil when there weren’t any G forces to move it away. That is both bad for the crank (impact) and the oil, whipping it into a foamy mess that is not good for lubrication. So my advice to guys with GTR’s is, sticky tyres and upgraded suspension = a sump with baffles, wings and one way doors. cheers

Pretty hard to answer such general questions without some idea of what are you going to put this engine in and what you are going to use it for. Lastly what sort of budget you are allocating, not just the engine but ALL of the other stuff necessary to make it worthwhile. cheers

I use a standard R32GTR fuel pump to supply my surge tank and 044. Works perfectly as it is pumping against zero pressure. Once you remove the requirement for the standard pump to work against pressure, their flow rate increases exponentially. If you are feeding an 044 directly, that’s even better because they suck, the standard pump is now pumping into a partial vacuum. I use 044's in tank ALL THE TIME, and I NEVER have a noise problem. People get noise problems because they don't insulate the pump, let the pick up sit on the floor of the tank or let the pump itself touch the side of the tank. cheers

PM sent. More sets required, especially rears. cheers

I will finalise the Group Buy over the weekend, orders can be sent any time after that. Delivery schedule looks like this; Springs are usually in stock at Whiteline and Eibach Bilstein takes 1-2 working days to fit the inserts into your standard struts Bilstein have coil over kits and front struts in stock Bushes are usually in stock at Whiteline Stabiliser bars take 4-5 working days to make as Whiteline do not keep stock Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. As for comparison, same as the Skyline kits, shit all over anything from Japan in handling and ride comfort. cheers

Yes, the Bilstein circlips should be in the 355/345 grooves. But every car is different. PM sent regarding standard strut tops. cheers