Sydneykid

The full Group Buy details are now included on page #1. cheers

Jaycar have a kit called a Digital Pulse Adjuster (much the same as the IEBC). It can read the pulse signal from the speedo input to the ECU. You can then program in your own output to the bypass solenoid. For example, up to 20 kph you might want 1hz of pulsation (bypass) so that there is lots of power steering assistance. At say 50 kph you might want 5hz, so that there is less assistance. Then at say 100 kph you might want to turn the power assistance pretty much off. The DPA has 128 load points, so you could vary the power assistance every 2 or 3 kph if you wanted. Or just step it down every 10kph or so. Basically you would get to choose your own power assistance curve. Keep in mind that I have guessed the 1hz, 5hz etc, you would have to test it yourself in the real world and determine what works. But that is pretty easy, same as tuning the IEBC for boost, you just fiddle with the bypass map until you get the curve you want. Have a read of the DFA & IEBC thread in the Stagea section for some details on the kits. cheers

The early models don't have AFM's but the late models do. Toyota woke up, well to AFM's anyway cheers

I haven't seen a GReddy RB25 plenum do a 9 yet. cheers

Nope, PFC uses the same idle control as standard. Have you tried cleaning the AAC valve? The FAQ in the maintenance section tells you how. cheers

Try swapping out the fuel pump relay. Cheers

It has been a few years since I installed one. From memory we used a vacumm block, 1 connection to the plenum and 5 to the various components (boost gauge, MAP sensor, carbon cannister, boost control solenoid and BOV). The idle isn't controlled by the ACC valve, the Ford throttle body had an adjustable stop for idle rpm adjustment. cheers

Being a typical aerodynamic device, front canards can help with the high speed understeer, but they do almost nothing for the low speed understeer. cheers

Salad is correct, you will need standard strut tops, front and rear. I do have a set of standard R33 strut tops that you can use. Sorry I don't have any rears though. cheers

Hi James, thanks for that info. Would I be right in assuming 6.6 volts (not 66 volts)? From memory (always risky) doesn't 14 volts DC cycled at 20hz = 4 volts? So it is most likely a pulsing solenoid, something like lower voltage = lower frequency = higher bypass cheers

Pretty much spot on, although wear limit is not always a precise answer on the thickness of the material. Sometimes it is limited by the calliper piston depth. I should add that the above quoted weights are of the rotors themselves, not including the alloy hats. cheers

The Whiteline polyurethane D bushes are a tight fit into the standard D brackets. It has happened (very infrequently) that Whiteline have supplied the wrong D bushes with the bar. A couple of quick tests; 1. Try fitting one of the D bushes to a D bracket, without the bar in the D bush. It should fit easily, with only very mild distortion of its moulded shape. 2. Next try fitting one of the D bushes to the bar, without the D bush being in the D bracket. It should fit easily, with only a very small gap where the bush is cut. If the above tests indicate problems, D bushes usually have a part number moulded into the flat side. What is it on the bushes you have? cheers

Thanks James. The R32 speedo cable (mechanical) goes to the speedo, then electronic to the ECU. Solenoid voltage......maybe duty cycle? Using the variation in duty cycle to provide different levels of assist. Time to stick a meter on the solenoid, jack the rear wheels up, try various kph and see what happens to the solenoid. If solenoid pulsing is the case then I could use a Jaycar digital pulse controller (similar circuit to IEBC) with the speedo pulse as the input. But I might as well leave the HICAS computer in, they weigh about the same. I have already pulled the warning light bulb, so no gain there. The only thing I could do is program my own levels of power assist. cheers

Mitsubishi V6 Magna, uses the same size dash fittings as the Bosch 044. cheers

For 300 rwkw I don't think it is necessary to decompress it (thick head gasket). So I would go for the Poncams, 260 degrees for a Neo. They gave us ~20 rwkw average power increase from 4,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. The longer duration will also decrease the dynamic compression ratio, hence lessening the need for a thick head gasket. Plus the cams lessened the restrictions to airflow, so we made more power at lower boost, also further lessening the need for a thick head gasket. The lower boost/dynamic compression enabled us to advance the ignition noticeably for faster boost build and more response. Cams were a win, win, win, win scenario. cheers

Bilstein Australia have received a small shipment of R32GTST rear shocks. Those guys with back orders, I will be contacting you tomorrow regarding delivery of your shocks. Thank you for being patient. Anyone thinking of buying a kit, my best suggestion is to get in now, they won't last very long. cheers

There are no electrical connections to the power steering pump that I can see. The only electrical connection seems to be to the solenoid on the power steering rack. So, why can’t you remove the HICAS computer? Is the power steering speed sensitive? Does the HICAS computer vary the amount of power assist by varying the amount of steering rack hydraulic assistance bypass using the solenoid? Does the HICAS computer know the speed (via a link to the ECU)? Does the HICAS computer open/close the solenoid depending on that speed? Is it a simple open or close? Or does the solenoid have various amounts of bypass? Say 0% at <20kph, 30% at 60 kph, 50% at 80 kph and 100% at >100 kph? Is there a definitive NISSAN publication on R32/33/34 variable assist power steering? For some time I have been contemplating removing the HICAS computer from the R32GTST. I was considering using one of the Datalogit outputs to control the power steering assist. But I need to know the solenoid parameters. cheers

We run toe out on the rear of GTR's only when all other avenues have been tried and it still wants to understeer. That happens occasionally with the Production car, but the Improved Production one has plenty of additional adjustments that the Production Car regs don’t allow. Meaning that I can usually dial out the understeer with the adjustable stabiliser bars. cheers