Sydneykid

No problem with going for just rear springs and shocks to start with. Just set the circlip heights so that it doesn't look funny (rear down) with the lowered springs in the rear until you get the fronts. PM sent. cheers

Some people can't drive cheers

The non spinning in the wet is not due to the 4wd system, it is due to front wheel drive first bias The worst tow car I ever had was an SS manual ute, 1st was too high and the lack of weight over the rear wheels was a dissaster, then I was always worried about stuff being stolen out of the back. I moved it on very quickly. cheers

From memory, Dash 6 fittings, they bolt straigh to the pump and 9 mm ID hose. Under the car using the standard fuel rail clamps. I use the standard feed pipework as the return and remove the standard return pipework. On the R32GTST, I used the HICAS pipework, it was there, in the right place and plenty big enough. cheers

The Forrester has a centre differential, the engine drives the front wheels ALL THE TIME, hence the rear wheels can NEVER have more than 50% of the drive. The Stagea has no centre differential, the engine drives the rear wheels ALL THE TIME. They can (and do) receive more than 50% of the drive, MOST of the time. Hence, BIG difference. I have also towed a race car with a Magna, albeit under 1500 kgs all up, and it was fine. Except taking off from a standstill in the rain, that was tricky. Plus I got it bogged in the pits more than once when it thunder stormed late in the day. Did the same with the Foulcan, so that's not too much of black mark. For determining draw bar weight, try a set of scales under the jocky wheel set at the towing height, it gives a pretty good indication. You got it, with ATM versus GTM, the draw bar weight is the difference. If it has a GTM under 2 tonnes then you don't need break away brakes. But if the ATM is over 2 tonnes, then the brakes have to work on all wheels. So in your example (ATM 2100 kgs, GTM 1950 KGS) the way I read it, the trailer would need brakes on all wheels, but no break away braking system. And those brakes would not need to "be capable of being applied from the driver’s seat". eg; 4 wheel overrun brakes would be OK. cheers

The guys have pretty well covered it, the only thing I would add is having adjustable everything is fine, as long as you know what each adjustment does. As long as you know which adjustment/adjustments to make to fix the handling imbalance that you have on the day. An example, it's understeering mid corner, what are you going to adjust? Front stabiliser bar? Rear stabiliser bar? Front damper setting? Rear damper setting? Front camber? etc etc As the saying goes, "sometimes less is more". If you have so much to think about and choose from, then there is more chance that you will choose the wrong one. Plus you will spend so much time worrying about the adjustments, time that would be better spent learning how to drive faster, watching others and learning the fast way around the track. What I say to guys, often, is that race cars all the way to F1 have driver adjustable stabiliser bars, because they are the most effective and simple way to change the car's balance. That's the first place I suggest everyone starts at, it's easy, quick and you can feel the results instantly. The last place is adjustable damping, because it is complex and many people can't determine which direction to go in. When we get a new driver in the race team it takes me a full day of training to get them accustomed to the feel of course damper changes. It takes a full season until they have a good feel for fine damper changes, some never get it and us engineers have to guess what the car needs. Some things for you to think about cheers

From my brief look, S2 manuals seem to have the full R33GTR rear end, including HICAS. cheers

cheers

A Forrester GT weighs about 200 kgs less than a Stagea. Plus it is a front wheel drive waggon that drives a little bit at the rear, ocassionally. The Stagea is a rear wheel drive waggon that drives occasionally at the front. Big difference, that's why we get almost no "pushing" from the trailer. I have no concerns with insurance, Shannons know the weights of all three (Stagea, R32GTST and trailer). The NSW regulations are; 1. All trailers with a Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) exceeding 750kg and first registered after 30 June 1990 are required to be fitted with an efficient braking system. For trailers with a GTM of up to 2 tonnes, this braking system can be either an overrun system or one that is operated from the driver's seat. 2. For trailers with a GTM exceeding 2 tonnes, the braking system must be capable of being applied from the driver’s seat - overrun brakes are not acceptable. In addition, the braking system must be such that if the trailer accidentally breaks away (from the towing vehicle), the trailer brakes will apply automatically and remain applied for at least 15 minutes. 3. It should be noted that the brakes must operate on ALL WHEELS (exceptions are trailers not over 2 tonnes Aggregate Trailer Mass (ATM) and trailers manufactured prior to ADR 38/--. Their service brakes must operate on all wheels on at least one axle). (ATM = the weight of the trailer, its load and the draw bar load) (GTM = the weight of the trailer and its load) ie; the only difference is GTM doesn't include the draw bar weight. Since my ATM is not over 2 tonnes, rule #2 does not apply to me. This is an Australian Design Rule (ADR #38) so it SHOULD apply everywhere in Australia. But some states are notorious for ignoring ADR's, so best to check with your local Authority. cheers

Unlikely that the height evening up causes the pull. Maybe get the wheel aligmnent checked again, preferably by a suspension workshop, not the local tyre service. Then post up the numbers, we may see something unusual. cheers

Buit in order to get fined they had to get them registered in the first place cheers PS; McLaren F1's BMW = N/A 6 litre V12 (basically 2 x M3 engines using a common crank)

Lowered springs and standard shocks...........have a read of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=Springs cheers

If your aim is to level up the car, then no, it doesn't matter. If you aim is to improve the handling, then it is impossible to tell without corner weighting. cheers

What about cars that have external gates standard? cheers

Hi Issy, the most effective way to lower it and achieve superior handling is by changing the shocks. The Bilsteins in the Group Buy come with additional circlip grooves which enable you to lower it using the standard springs. Around 24 mm works very well. Lowered springs and standard shocks is not a good idea, this thread explains why; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=Springs cheers

PM sent cheers

Yes cheers

If you have a pressure gauge, compare the pressure at the fuel rail compared to the pressure at the pump. They should be the same, if the pressure at the pump outlet is higher, then there is a restriction in the flow. cheers

You got it, emmisions testing have always been pretty much rehashes of the California tests. Which were designed for SMOG reduction, keeping in mind the variation is engine sizes (Yanks like big engines). Therefore they rely on % emmisions rather than absolutes. Plus they aren't real world, the air going into the engine being tested is clean, which never happens in the real world. The old story, the air going into the engine is dirtier than the air coming out of it. The emmissions testing is oxymoronic, it only looks at what comes out, and does not include the emmisions produced by what goes in. Using more fuel arguably creates more total "pollution" than the increased tail pipe emmissions created when the engine is not at its maximum fuel efficiency. Dumb isn't it? cheers

Hi Brad, I have seen 650 bhp using a single 044 and that with some fuel returning to the tank. I did measure that return and it was enough for another 80 bhp or so. So I doubt that the 044 is the problem at 480 rwhp, maybe have a look at the lines and fuel filters first. Also make sure that the pump is receiving the minimum ~13.8 volts. Brad in Perth had a similar leaning out problem and his problem was the lift pump running out of flow. cheers

But what happens if you modify your car just so that it produces LESS emmisions? How can they fail that modification? The logical answer is they can't, just because it happens to produce more power as a result of those mods is irrelevant. They can't test for motive, only result. This test further proves how illogical the emmisions laws are, you have to tune the car to use MORE fuel so that it passes. How dumb is that? Plenty of professional automotive engineers around Australia are amazed that this stupidity continues. There is a new article about it every few months or so in the trade journals, all with the same theme. How can we put up with a law that requires ALL cars to use MORE fuel to pass an out of date emmisions test? cheers

Like Duncan I tow the race car with our Stagea, ours is a little lighter being an R32GTST weighing 1200 kgs with a similar 500 kg trailer with electric brakes. I also carry around 200 kgs of tools and spares. Two up, with that sort of load, the Stagea itself weighs ~2 tonnes, so towing 1,700 kgs is a breeze. Much better than the ED Foulcan waggon we used before the Stagea. Legal....I have no idea, the numbers say that it is I pass Police cars regularly and have never had any questions asked Safe....as safe as any other 3.7 tonne projectile Feels a whole lot safer than the Foulcan and the Toyota HiLux that preceeded it Insurance.... is OK The Stagea, the trailer and the race car are all insured through Shannons So they know about the whole package. cheers

Give Fulcrum a call, they are the Tein agents. cheers

Don't forget the affect of acceleration enrichment. cheers

Corners 10/11/12, that's the right kink and double left onto the main straight isn't it? If so, that's a hard acceleration run out of the hairpin in 2nd gear, change to 3rd and then to 4th. Flick right, brake hard and change down to 3rd. Hold 3rd through the long, double apex, left hander. If anywhere is going cause oil surge it is that sequence, it has all the ingredients; High rpm straight from a low gear (oil build up in the cylinder head) Sustained acceleration G force (oil flowing rearwards in the sump, away from the pick up at the front) Followed by heavy braking G force (oil flow away from the larger oil returns in the cylinder head) Flick change of direction, then a sustained rpm and G force, double apex corner (oil flow across the sump) That’s prime oil surge territory for a GTR sump. cheers