Sydneykid

Just waiting on the last of the prices to come through. They will be in the designated place in the #1 post. cheers

Please let me know how you get on. cheers

Rear subframe aligment bushes = pineapples (it's suspension, not a fruit shop) cheers

The V-Spec versus non V Spec diff is minor, 10 mm lower ride height and slightly stiffer springs/shocks. No big deal, the Group Buy KIt is better than both anyway. cheers

The circlips are set in the 350/340 positions out of the box. cheeers

Maybe a little clarification might help. The SAFC/SITC combo sits between the AFM & CAS and the standard ECU. So they modify the signals that the standard ECU receives, tricking it into using the load points on the fuel and ignition maps that give you the desired A/F ratio and ignition timing. AFM --> SAFC --> standard ECU CAS --> SITC --> standard ECU The Jaycar DFA kit achieves the same thing AFM --> DFA --> standard ECU The DFA is obviously quite cheap (~$80 plus $70 for the Controller). SAFC’s are readily available, new and used but SITC’s are hard to find as they have been out of production for some time. The big advantage is you can fit them yourself, set them on zero correction and then drive around just as you would if they weren’t there. Or drive to the dyno for tuning. The SAFC (& DFA) will enable you to stretch the standard AFM as far as it can go before it maxes out. The standard ECU protection stuff (knock and limp home for example) still function. These are easy to tune, 20 minutes max on a dyno for SAFC/DFA, less than that for the SITC. They have been around for years, so plenty of tuners have experience, even if they don’t, it only takes a few minutes to get familiar They don’t disable the 180 kph speed limiter, so if you are doing any track work you will need something like a HKS SLD (Speed Limit Defeater/Defender) The EManage sits between the standard ECU and injectors and the coil ignitors. So it modifies the signals that the standard ECU sends, using the load points on the EManage fuel and ignition maps to give you the desired A/F ratio and ignition timing. Standard ECU --> EManage --> Injectors Standard ECU --> Emanage --> Ignitors The main problems with EManage in the past was its inability to run R33/34 ignitors. A few guys seem to have had success lately so maybe the problem has been overcome. If it has, then they are not a bad choice. No SLD required as the EManage intercepts the speed signal before it gets to the ECU. Since the EManage controls the spark there is no ignition retard on gear changes in autos, so the gear changes are a bit harsher and the gearbox will wear out a little bit faster. The ignition cut on full throttle gear changes seems to still work (limited testing) so it isn't as bad as using an aftermarket ECU with an auto. The HKS FCon in its various generations is pretty much like an EManage. Except the tuning software is only available to HKS approved (royalty paying) workshops. Last time I checked that was only one in Australia, BD4’s in Sydney In theory the EManage should enable you to drive the car to the dyno, but this hasn’t been the case in many instances. They are not as popular, so not as much experience out their in tuner land. Be careful of the add ons, the base price may seem attractive, but the options soon add up. That covers the major piggy backs, ECU observations another day. cheers

R32 or R33/34? This is R34 (R33 is the same) cheers

As per the Group Buy thread; 1. Heasmans, Sydenham 2. Exceller Steering, Bankstown 3. East Coast Suspension, Kirrawee 4. StGeorge Steering Services, Punchbowl cheers

Time has marched on since I did the pulley and belt. I have done a few extra mods since then, so no before and after dyno results are going to be possible. I do have one more dyno run to go after I fit the split dump/engine pipe. If I have time I will try the adj exhaust camshaft pulley in a couple of positions and then pick the one that suites me. Remember I use the Stagea for towing the race car, so I am more interested in an extra 15rwkw at 4,000 rpm that 20 rwkw at 6,500 rpm. cheers

You should able to fix that next week. cheers PS; there is no such thing as boost cut. There is no map sensor connection to the ECU, so it has no idea what boost you are running. Even if it did, the ECU doesn't CUT anything. The ECU knows about ariflow (via the AFM) and when the airflow gets too high the ECU retards the ignition and adds some fuel. On SAU we call that Rich & Retard mapping (R&R for short). It is Nissan's strategy for protecting the engine.

If you don't need a CAMS and/or ANDRA approved cage then check the For Sale Forums. Quite a few cars come in with cages and they have to be removed for compliance, I bought a 6 point one with padding for $600. cheers

This thread shows you how to measure springs so that you can send the dimensions to me and I will work out the springs rates for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Armed with the spring rates you can then make an informed decision. cheers

That's only with states that are linked.... because not all states (and terrirories) are created equal. SOSK

Yeah, I sold one... SOSK

Hey all. Son of SK here I figure many people here will have been in a simillar situation to me... I know what skyline drivers are like. So I thought I'd ask the question. After a run in with the cops (only one in 12 months of skyline ownership - touch wood), I am basically going to lose my licence (on a good behaviour licence, got done turning right, in the wet, on a crap road, using 2 lanes - a race line damnit). Now, I'd rather prefer to have a licence, than lose it for 6 months. Now, my good behavior licence ends this month. I am to go to court March 8 for my appeal (first date, not going to actually be heard for some time I expect). Now, after Feb, I will be on a normal licence with 3 points - but suspect that if I lose in court, everything will be backdated to me being on the GB licence, therefore I will lose my licence... Is this correct?? Now, had the idea of going interstate - haven't we all - and getting a licence. If I cancel my licence before I go, but keep my licence in my hand (say I lost it??), go to Queensland, get a friend to write a letter stating that I am living there - can I get my full lince when they don't find me on the computer system?? Or, should I not cancel my NSW licence when I go to Qld? Do I lie when they ask if I have any pending infringements? What's the whole story about changing states for licences?? Now, I believe South Australia is the only state not using the national driver's database - should I go there? Worst case - New Zealand - its cheaper to get there than WA... As long as I have a hard copy NSW licence, can I get a kiwi licence, no questions asked (with proof of address) - or do they check with NSW... Sorry for the novel of a question, and I know it seems like a lot of bloody effort for only a 6 month loss, but hey, I need it. Hope someone has some idea Cheers Matt / Son of SK :sorcerer:

Mitsubishi are coming out with an Evo IX replacement (EVO X) with an all new engine and body design A N D a Lancer GSR (baby evo with the old 4G63) for the world market - it was to compete with the WRX throughout the world Now Mitsubishi will have a nice market all to itself if Subaru don't bring out a WRX - which I find hard to believe

Son of SK here.... I work at Fraser Motorcycles, and going through the same thing myself... I am looking at the best Leaner legal thing available - a Ducati 620 Monster. However, they stopped making them last year, and there's about 2 left... They are a 620cc Vtwin, with a throttle restrictor - rmove restrictor, and its an open 620cc little weapon... as a 100kg guy, a 250cc thing ain;t gonna cut for me after long, so this makes more sense... Other than that, I think the best is a Honda VTR250 - brand new around $8K, hella reliable, and used ones are good value. 250cc vtwin, pretty quick, handle great... However, I work in Harley Spares - they have a pretty average reputation, but realistically, they are surprisingly reliable - have a number of customers with 97 Electra Glides (the big ass tourers) who have basically done nothing but minor services the whole of the bike's life, and have over 100,000kms on them... The newer bikes, the Twin cams, are even better. But like any car, its hit and miss, and the people who look after the bike are often more responslbe for the issues they have, rather than Harley themselves - only a harley technition should touch a harley... Anyways, end hijack there, but if anyone wants a deal, come on up to Frasers... Son of SK

I could spend a few hours going into details but I don't have time today, so I will keep it brief. The strongest bracing you can use is a triangle, yes the Pharaohs were spot on when they built the pyramids. That’s why race car roll cages are made up almost entirely of triangles, they stiffen up the chassis so the suspension is the only thing that moves to follow the road surface. An unbraced chassis is like a spring without a shock absorber, it moves around (flexes) totally without damping. That brace is OK if you want to improve the side impact protection for the passenger and the drivers lower torso (protect your ass if someone runs into you from the side). It does pretty much nothing else, except maybe make the seat belt mount a little stronger. The chassis will still flex because there is no triangulation. It isn't a triangle itself, nor does it's addition complete a triangle. It just sits parrallel to the floor, which is already one of the strongest parts of the chassis. cheers

Same as R32GTR, ~165 lbe per inch (3kg/mm) cheers

On the engine dyno an RB produces more power with water temperature at 85 degress than it does at 70 degrees. I don't think it is feasible for a road going RB to have the oil temp higher than the necessary 100 degrees and the water temp below 80 degrees. The intercooler/radiator/oil cooler size ratios would be impossible to achieve within the packaging. Keeping in mind that the fan/fans do nothing to improve engine cooling over 60 kph. cheers

Rubbish, whoever told you that should not be believed ever again. You adjust the lower spring to raise or lower the car. Yes, C spanners are the prefered tools used to rotate the lower spring seats. cheers

I have reloaded the link and it works for me. If it doesn't work for you this time have a look in the Group Buys section its about 5 or 6 from the top. You have to talk to the guy who did the conversion. You need to know what he did about the front (engine) subframe, did he leave it GTS4 or change to a GTST one? Otherwise you are going to have all sorts of issues with camber and caster caused by the location of the subframe and the radius rods (they are also different between GTS4 ad GTST). Plus what uprights he used, GTS4 or GTST? cheers

I assume that you have actually done the numbers on this? Worked out the max speed in each gear and the top speed? With 245/45/17 tyres and a 4.1 diff ratio you are currently looking at the following ~KPH in each gear at 7,500 rpm 1st = 66 kph 2nd = 115 kph 3rd = 168 kph 4th = 220 kph 5th = 289 kph Do you really need a top speed more than 289 kph? For cruising, 2,850 rpm = 110 kph (speed limit) in 5th gear. That's off boost for any turbo sized to allow max power at 7,000 rpm. So economy is good, but overtaking power is only a short squeeze on the throttle away, no down change required. Keep in mind that R32GTST's have a 4.3 to 1 diff ratio and weigh 200 kgs less than your GTR. Similary comparing your GTR to a R33GTST with RB30 may lead to the wrong conclusion. So don't ignore the weight factor when you are working out optimal gearing or the extra transmission losses from the 4wd. How often did you drive around 5th gear with the 2.6 litre? Not often (other than highway driving) I bet. With the 3 litre you just use a higher gear than you would with the 2.6 litre. My suggestion, as it has been with 20 or so others that have had RB30DET's, drive it around first, then decide. So far not one of those guys has changed the diff ratio. cheers

So they have gone back to 2 different part numbers again. Wonder why? cheers

I have found that a large single fan (Davies Craig) moves more air than twins. cheers