Sydneykid

The standard slow and narrow lambda sensor only sees A/F ratios around stoich. It is too slow and too narrow to record A/F ratios outside that area. Well buying a useless gauge was a waste of money, wasn't it? cheers

Try the Group Buy, plenty of guys are very happy with it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592 cheers

Because one man's "legal road car" is another mans "all out race car". When someone says it's a legal road car because the mods are "engineered" 50% of the people go "OK then, it's allright to call it a road car". The other 50% say "engineered" means it is full of illegal mods that have been approved to drive around the street, even though they are illegal for their car (because their car hasn't been engineered). Same mods though. Where do you draw the line? In some states you could just about get a funny car "engineered", does that make it a "road car"? cheers

Quick clarifications; 1. The RB25 Neo turbo has a slightly larger turbine cover, otherwise the same as RB25 (non Neo) S2. That means ceramic turbine and plastic compressor. 2. Neo has solid followers, RB25 has hydraulic 3. Neo passes 1996 emissions, RB25 passes 1993 emissions 4. Neo has SLIGHTLY stronger conrods 5. Neo has larger intercooler (still side mount, but thicker and taller) 6. Neo has plastic top feed injectors (not the same as RB26 top feed though), RB25 has side feed 7. Neo has infinitely variable inlet camshaft timing, RB25 has simple on/off. Neither have variable exhaust camshaft timing. 8. Neo has higher flowing cat standard, but most get changed for compliance, so it doesn’t matter 9. Neo ECU is “smarter”, so harder to trick with piggy blacks (SAFC, DFA or equivalent). Has a much more aggressive R&R mapping, so you need to be a bit more careful with tuning. 10. The NEO CAS has more outputs for increased timing signal accuracy to the ECU (lower emissions and higher power output). 11. The drive peg on the NEO CAS to camshaft interface is different, so you can’t use non NEO CAS or non Neo exhaust camshaft 12. NEO ECU has different ECU plugs and pin outs, so you can’t use an RB25 Power FC, you need the right model PFC. That’s about all I can think of. cheers

You are describing closed loop running for constant throttle cruise and idle, which isn't "learning". They have a lambda target, usually 15 to 1, and they rely on the standard, slow and narrow lambda sensor to give feedback to the ECU. The ECU constantly adjusts the fuel supply to target that lambda. This happens at cruise and idle, being constant throttle postions. The standard, slow and narrow lambda sensor is too slow and too narrow in its sensing capabilty to work when the throttle is being moved or the conditions (up hill etc) are changing. The SAFC, DFA or equivalent is over ridden (by the ECU targetting lambda) at times of constant throttle cruise or idling. But at ALL other times the SAFC, DFA or equivalent corrections to the AFM signals results in the ECU using different (than standard) load points. Hence leaning out/richening the A/F ratios and advancing/retarding the igntion timing. Simply put, as soon as you touch the throttle the ECU goes out of closed loop control and the SAFC, DFA or equivalent is in control. cheers

Side feed (R33GTST) or top feed (R33GTR )injectors? OR Does the rail convert side feed to top feed? Cheers

Then factor in another $1K to the price for the fast and wide lambda sensor and the controller. You get a lot of dyno tuning for $1K. For road (and track) tuning I use a Tech Edge WAO, best ~$500 I ever spent. Plus it transfers from car to car, regardless of ECU. Self tune is good, but it's not the best value for money. cheers

The big advantage I find with the PFC Boost Control kit is that it enables a number of correction tables to be activated via the Datalogit software. If you use a stand alone boost controller you will need another map sensor for the PFC to activate the tables. Plus with the Datalogit you can use boost to trigger other items, for example intercooler spray. cheers

Early WRX injectors are the same as JZ injectors (and SARD), they need an adaptor collar to fit RB25's. Late WRX injectors look like RB25 Neo injectors but I haven't compared them directly. cheers

Lets try that again, using the correct ID this time Rear = 440 lbs per inch (7.9 kg/mm) Front = 565 lbs per inch (10.1 kg/mm) My suggestion for a cheap fix, stick the rears in the front and buy some 250 lbs per inch (4.5 kg/mm) rears. Cheers

If you only use the upper control arm to adjust camber you will get severe distortion of the traction rod and lowr control arm bushes and they (all 8 of them) will wear out very fast. Plus your wheel aligner will find it very difficult to get the toe settings correct. Worst of all you will end up with bulk bump steer. Traction rods make no difference to the rear subframe alignment which is what is required to give the adjustment of squat for traction or drift. A rear subframe alignment kit is what is required for that. D cheers

On its way, PM sent Cheers

Sounds OK, just whetever you are driving it with will need some duty cycle adjustment, but that's hardly unusual. Cheers

There is only ONE set of R32GTR Bilsteins left. So get in fast, there won't be any more now until after Xmas, at the earliest. cheers

Reply sent cheers

PM sent cheers

Work with any brand of shocks, springs, whatever. Every car is different, but somewhere between 6 degrees and 7 degrees is the normal result. Nope, 8 mm eacd side is extreme cheers

Simple high school maths (Pi x R2 X H), 0.2 mm reduction in head gasket thickness = 0.1 to 1 increase in compression ratio. So if you had no head gasket at all, you would end up at 8.7 to 1 using RB30E pistons with an RB25 cylinder head. An alternative (if you have a decent machine shop close by) is to mill the cylinder head 0.3 mm and reduce the combustion chamber volume by 2 cc's. Then install new (unmilled) valve seats which will reduce the combustion chamber volume by 0.8 cc's. Head gaskets of 0.8 mm are available, but to use one you will need to o'ring the block. Do those 3 things and you will end up at 8.65 to 1 which is the best you are going to get while still retaining the standard squish, which is important. cheers

There are in fact a number of problems that cause this sort of crap (suggested solutions in brackets); 1. Loose cambelt (re-tension the cambelt) 2. Poor relocation of the cambelt tensioner (mount them properly when you build the engine). 3. Worn camshaft/CAS interface (replace the worn components) 4. Poor choice of ECU, some ECU’s only use one of the trigger signals and therefore have no cross reference for “noise” elimination (if possible use the standard triggers with an ECU that has that capability). 5. Some ECU’s require the replacement of the standard trigger wheels, because they can’t interpret the standard CAS signals (select a more appropriate ECU in the first place.) (If you MUST use a high end ECU, then include the cost of separate crank and camshaft triggers). 6. Poor quality rewiring, insufficient “noise” insulation/suppression, low quality patch harnesses, ill fitting piggy back plugs, faulty wiring etc etc (use a plug and play ECU, like a Power FC or get a professional to do the engine wiring harness if using a high end ECU). This is not all exclusive to RB30’s, I have seen all but #2 on other RB’s. cheers

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements on all 4 corners? cheers

1. You remove front tail shaft, not the drive shafts. Can bleed off pressure, but it's messy and you have to bleed the air out when replacing it. Simpler to just remove the front tailshaft, takes about 10 minutes. 2. 100% BS 3. 100% BS cheers

You have a couple of easy (relatively cheap) ways to achieve a result; 1. Fit a larger fuel pump, a GTR one would be fine ($200 or so on the for sale forum) 2. A Nismo adj fuel pressure regulator ($150 from Nengun) 3. Increase the fuel pressure to ~45 psi (standard is 34-36 psi) 4. Replace the fuel hoses and use better clamps, the standard ones are not up to the higher pressure. 5. Use the SAFC to lean it off (lower the AFM voltage input to the ECU) as required at low loads, where the increase fuel pressure has richened it up too much. 6. You shouldn’t have to apply too much SAFC correction at higher revs (over ~5,500 rpm) as the increase fuel pressure should do that for you 7. Then use an SITC to advance/retard the ignition timing as required. They are getting hard to find, so if you don’t already have one, start looking now. That should get you to around 215-220 rwkw which is about as much as the standard injectors are going to cope with (even at the higher fuel pressure). cheers

Yes, no problems, done many times cheers

Have a read of this thread first; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91064 Then have a look at the Group Buy on adjustable bushes; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers