Sydneykid

Want another equally meaningless comparison? Our F3 is much faster (QIR 1.07 versus 1.10) than the Porsche. With a restricted, 2 litre N/A engine and shitty narrow/small diameter Kumho control tyres. All for 1/3 the price of a Porka. cheers

The R32GTR race record for the 1,000 ks' still stands. cheers

OK, with that size housing you should be able to get decent boost at 4,750 rpm or so. You don’t need a dyno to tune the cam timing if you have a stop watch and your seat of the pants feel is tuned. You can try a few settings yourself and “feel” the results, look at the boost gauge or better still measure them with your stop watch. Most times I find around 2 degrees advanced on the inlet camshaft and 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust camshaft works out pretty good for early boost build, without compromising top end power too much. So for a starter give that a try. Remember every car is different, so don’t be afraid to experiment around those numbers. Keep in mind that you will be able to advance the ignition timing (not just the 4 degrees to make up for retarding the camshaft 4 degrees). My experience has been that you can get quite a bit more advance which helps again some more with the earlier boost build. I basically just keep advancing the timing until I see some knock on the PFC Commander or knock amp (whatever brand). If no knock readings available, then I use a set of chassis ears and listen for some pre-ignition. You will be surprised how much more responsive you can make it with a bit of fiddling on the ignition advance. Warnings; 1. Be careful how much exhaust camshaft timing you test at they will hit the pistons. Remember on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is opening at the same time as the piston is travelling upwards. So make sure that you measure the piston to valve clearance if you want to try more than 3-5 degrees. 2. You will have to add some fuel (lots) as the boost build earlier, so keep an eye on the A/F ratios. 3. Pre-ignition at your power and rpm levels is BAD news, so make sure you listen carefully. Hopefully that has been of some use, any questions, just ask. cheers

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Several suggestions; 1. Connect straight from the boost source to the wastegate actuator ie; leave the solenoid out of the circuit. That will tell you if you have a plumbing and or solenoid problem. 2. Check that the wastegate is actually able to open fully ie; disconnect the actuator arm and move the flap open with your fingers. This will ensure that the aftermarket dump pipe isn't stopping the flap from fully opening. 3. Wire the wastegate fully open and take it for drive, it should build boost very slowly and not over boost. Once you have tried the above, post up the results and we can go from there. D cheers

You are describing a parrallel system that would slow down the boost build. The fastest possible boost build is an advantage of the IEBC. Nope They are what is termed a normally closed solenoid ie; they LIKE being closed, it's their natural state. cheers

Experience, been tuning N/A engines for a loooong time. I should add that, there are some lean burn engines that will handle 17 to 1. But I assumed that you were talking about some Skyline engine (RB20/25/26/30) since this is SAU. cheers

What exhaust housing do you have on the T04Z? cheers

You have several choices; Off throttle = injectors closed, so 0 to 1 Partial throttle = 13 to 1 WOT = wherever it makes the most power, usually 13.5 to 1 or thereabouts Constant throttle = whatever the closed loop aim table says usually 14.7 to 14.9 to 1 Cruise = 15 to 1 Idle = 15.5 to 1 cheers

Are there any dynos in Surinami? cheers

PM sent cheers

Have a look at this thread as it gives the current status; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135275 cheers

PM sent, sorry for the delay I haven't been at my PC since last week. Cheers

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Have a read of the feedback from the guys on the Group Buy thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Then PM me if you have any further questions cheers

Sorry I have been at Bathurt since Thursday, PM box now has space. cheers

The Mines R34GTR with 600 ps, the Nismo ZTune with 650 ps and my RB31DET with 600 rwhp (I live in good company) all use the Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator (~$150 from Nengun) that bolts straight onto the end of the standard fuel rail. Yes the Gibson GTR’s used the standard rail as well. The Mines engine bay (just for the doubters); The Nismo Adj FPR looks like this, part number is on the box; Cheers PS; the search button is your BEST friend, there is virtually zero chance of you thinking of a question that hasn’t already been asked and answered.

R33GTST (RB25DET) turbos are ball bearing and water cooled. cheers

Personally I have never had a throttle shaft air leak on an RB26. It is usually the TB to inlet manifold gasket or the inlet manifold to head gasket. The most common problem is dowels the not lining up or bottoming out. The bottoming out occurs when we have machined the gasket surfaces flat, without maching the dowels suitably. I have also seen too long bolts and/or bottomed out studs cause similar problems. cheers

Remove the shock/spring unit Unbolt the stabiliser bar You should them be able to remove/replace the upper control bolts easily If you can't then you will have ot unbolt the radius rod from the lower control arm.That will enable the lower control arm and the upright to move around freely. Then it is a piece of piss to remove/replace the upper control bolts easily cheers

Two pumps = twice as much chance of one failing. If you are that worried, run a fuel pressure gauge. cheers

The standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensor only works for constant throttle cruise and idle (generally called closed loop running). At ANY other loads (that's the other 99.9% of the time) the mapping has full control of the A/F ratios (open loop running). cheers

1. Try a 1mm vent hole, that should give you more duty cycle to play with 2. Maybe check that you actually do have injector #1 as the load source. 3. You got it, high RPM generally uses more fuel than boost at lower RPM. Try the “power” button on the trans it makes the shifts more “sporty” 4. Exhaust, on a turbo engine, exhaust is ALWAYS the first mod you should do. DEFINITELY the best bag for buck power upgrade you can make on any turbo engine. 5. Not as good as upgrading the exhaust, worth doing AFTER the exhaust 6. Not worth doing for your power target, wouldn’t work very well without an exhaust upgrade anyway. 7. It depends on how you drive it, how big the trans cooler is, how good the hydraulic fluid is etc etc. I have seen a few cars wiht 225 rwkw and no auto problems and I have seen 145 rwkw with lots of problems. 8. Spend $500 on the exhaust, best value for money cheers PS; did I mention you should do the exhaust upgrade next?

1. Standard fuel pressure is 34-36 psi (plus or minus boost/vacuum) 2. If you set it at higher pressure it will run richer. If you set it at lower pressure it will run leaner. Which do you want? cheers

PM sent cheers