Sydneykid

Drift postion is good for drifting All round position is good for normal driving Max grip position is good for drags cheers

Why do you think it gunna "sit high as" after you fit wheels and tyres the same diameter as you have now? Low profile tyres on 18" or 19" means the same diameter as higher profile tyres on 16 "or 17". Unless you buy high profile 18" or 19" tyres, then you will have a speedo error problem. Centre of wheel to guard measurement (all 4 corners) is the suspension industry standard for measuring height. Skylines (R32/33/34) handle and ride best around 350-355 mm front and 340-345mm rear. cheers

In summary, 212 rwkw and an SAFC with the standard turbo. Night time, colder (denser) air compared to daytime, hotter air on the dyno. My first guess would be that the standard ECU is getting into R&R mapping because of the increased airflow. My suggestion would be to ake it back to your tuner and tell him what is happening. He may be able to sneak a bit more corection into the SAFC to allow for the night time running OR Wait unilt summer before you run it at night time drags. cheers

Yep, it's a three dimensional map (MAP sensor, TPS and RPM) and when the pressure is constant, the TPS and RPM are the two axis of the map cheers

I get to reply anyway. 1. I personally wouldn't (and don't) use over 10psi with a standard turbo. So a search "sydneykid", "+ceramic +in +the +cat" and "any datte for detailed reasons why. 2. The input load point (injecor duty cycle) should go up as the ECU advances the ignition and bypasses more air to keep the idle strength when the air con load is applied. 3. Check the circuit 4. R&R mapping 5. Learn how to use the throttle to control the kick down 6. R&R mapping is vicious at lower rpm when the airflow is much higher than standard. As the rpm increases, the % difference in airflow is less, so the R&R mapping is not as vicious. cheers

I will start off by saying that I have never personally tuned a car using a DJetro, but I have sat by when one was done. Plus I have compared a DJetro with the Motecs and Autronics that we use all the time and I can’t see why they would be any different. Based on Motec and Austronic experience, tuning the DJetro will take shit loads longer than tuning an LJetro. Many tuners take short cuts when tuning LJetro, because the AFM lets you "get away" with “close enough is good enough” tuning. The DJetro DEMANDS perfect tuning, there aren’t any “shortcuts” and it’s either right or wrong. There is no AFM measuring the airflow to save yo ass and fill in any gaps in your tuning. If you spend half as much time tuning a LJetro than you do tuning a DJetro, then you will get the same (if not more) horsepower. The comparison falls over when the tuner spends less than 1/10th the time tuning the LJetro. So don’t look to the DLetro tune as being BETTER, it’s far more likely that the LJetro tune was CRAP in the first place. I have heard the “measuring the pressure close to the engine” reasoning before. I believe it is erroneous. The truth is, if you have a decent boost controller, the pressure is constant (once boost is stable). So the MAP sensor proximity to the engine is IRRELEVANT. The big problem with DJetro is the multiple throttle bodies on RB26’s. Getting a stable pressure means dampening it, using a large reservoir to even out the 6 cylinder pulses. A dampened pressure signal is hardly RESPONSIVE. If I was building an RB with a single throttle body and really large (drag use) turbo, then a DJetro might get a look in. But multiple throttle bodies and road/circuit sized turbo/turbos means the LJetro will still be on top of my list. cheers

If you only have one pump and it fails, the engine stops, you know it and no lean running occurs. If you have two pumps and one fails, the engine keeps running, you don’t know that one pump has failed, so you could have lean running and you wouldn’t know. cheers

Useless in SA, can only be tuned by an auithorised HKS Tuning Shop using the HKS supplied dongle and software. Which HKS charges an arm and a leg for. cheers

Got nothing to do with "rear links". The 260RS uprights are R33GTR, the shocks bolt to them. So you would have to change the uprights. But that also means changing drive shafts, diff, cradle, brakes etc. Have a look at Brad's thread on swapping the R33GTR rear end into his Stagea That's basically what you would have to do. cheers PS; why would you bother anyway, there is nothing great about 260RS shocks

Try reading this thread, it answers all of your questions. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207 cheers

One way antisiphon valve, buy one from your local aquarium retailer. Mix 70/30 water and metho. Guaranteed to lower the intercooler fins to 15 degrees BELOW ambient at anything over 60 kph. Don’t believe me? Try it on your hand Blow on a dry hand Then wet it with water and blow again Notice the temperature drop? Try it with 70/30, notice even more temperature drop? cheers PS; EVO’s have intercooler sprays standard

PM sent cheers

We (SOSK and me) will be flying up Friday and flying back Sunday night. Will be in the pits Fri, Sat and Sun cheers

Hi Jon, PM sent cheers

If you haven't received a response already, then no I didn't get it. Not your fault, my inbox was FULL. So please just resend it. Cheers

PM sent cheers

PM sent cheers

PM sent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Sorry guys, I have been a bit busy, it’s Bathurst this weekend and this year I have had plenty to do in the lead up. I will also be there over the weekend (Friday to Sunday). Yes, some poor team is going to let me hang around for 3 days (poor buggers). As far as I can tell I have now replied to every PM, if you haven’t received a reply then please resend the PM. I promise I will try and answer every one before I go. cheers

Do they only do a "dry" leak down test? You haven't put up "wet" leak down results, so I assume not. Take it back and get them to do a "wet leak down test". That will tell you if it's a valve seal problem or a ring seal problem. If it's a valve seal problem then a simple (relatively) head service will fix it. Post up the results "wet" leak down test and we will go from there. cheers

Front = 160 lbs per inch (2.8 kg/mm) Rear = 200 lbs per inch (3.6 kg/mm) cheers

1. 235 lbs per inch (4.3 kg/mm) 2. 225 lbs per inch (4.0 kg/mm) cheers :

Traction control via ABS wheel speed sensors is not what we are talking about. On a circuit race car that method is pretty much useless as changes in power application, at the edge of the tyres' traction cirlce, affect the stability very drastically. What we are discussing is limiting boost (and therefore power) using other inputs, ie; NOT traction control, because even with limited boost, the car can still have sufficient power to spin the wheels ie; lose traction. cheers

I think the guys have missed a couple of things; 1.You will have to go to court twice 2. The first time you just get to say "guilty" or "not guilty" 3. The first trick, there are two "guiltys" one is "guilty" straight, out but you ask for leniency (good record, nice guy, no tickets, references blah, blah, blah,) that usually doesn’t do much for young guys. 4. The next is "guilty" with a reason. Make sure that the magistrate/registrar notes that you have pleaded guilty at the first opportunity, that's worth it. 5. So what that says is “I did it, but I had a good reason” 6. The last choice is “not guilty” that means you absolutely didn’t do it. 7. So what you have to decide first is what to plead. Some possibilities; A. If you got the ticket for going through a red light and you reckon it was orange, then plead not guilty. ie; you DIDN’T go though a red light B. If you got the ticket for going through an orange light and you reckon it was orange, then plead guilty with a reason. There were cars in my rear vision mirror and I didn’t consider it safe to stop. Based on what you have posted it sounds to me like you need to plead A - not guilty. It was orange not red. 8. Once you have pleaded the magistrate/registrar will assign you a court date. Don’t be afraid to say “no” if the date he/she chooses is unsuitable. It doesn’t cost (in court costs) anymore if you delay it several months, just make sure that you have a reason. 9. The magistrate/registrar will then ask if you have any witnesses so he/she can work out how long the case is going to take. The police prosecutor has to do the same, if he has video that he wants to produce then he has to declare it. If he does declare it that means it most likely supports his case. That’s bad. If he doesn’t mention the video that means it doesn’t support his case. That’s FANTASTIC. What you MUST do IMMEDIATELY is then say “I understand that the police vehicle was fitted with a video recording device and I would like that produced in court, please”. If the prosecutor say “no” for ANY reason, then ask for the case to be dismissed right then and there. As they have no evidence, its your word against the officers and he wasn’t in your vehicle and couldn’t possibly see the cars in your rear vision mirror. Explain (in the nicest possible way) that you have already taken a day of work to defend this case, costing you more than the fine in lost wages. You don’t think it is fair that you have to take another day off when it is fairly obvious that you have no case to answer. Come back to this thread after you have been to court the first time. Be polite at all times and explain that you have never been in court before and you can’t afford to pay for a lawyer. So you are representing yourself. Good luck cheers

There's your problem, it needs to be retuned. It still might be worthwhile you checking the plug gap, around 0.8 mm is OK, but no larger. If that helps, but doesn't cure it totally, then come down to 0.65 mm. cheers

Since the VSS is on the driven wheels (I assume) how do you handle wheelspin? Or do you take the VSS off the undriven wheels (if it's 2wd)? Or do you use wheel speed splitter and use the lowest speed ie; hopefully the one without wheelspin? cheers