Sydneykid

Hi Ken, sorry no I don't, please PM them to me again. cheers

Makes the set up in my Stagea sound cheap; DFA $70 Controller $50 IEBC $70 SITC $250 Tune $160 Total $600 cheers

Honda motorcycle engines rev to double the rpm of a Nissan RB The tolerances that a motorcycle engine is built to are not the same as an RB Honda motorcycle engines are not usually turbocharged Don’t pussy the thing, lots of varying load is good, but not lots of rpm or boost. cheers

Bad luck/timing, disassemble it and do it properly. cheers

They are already adjusted to the most common setting. Put them on as they are and get on with tuning it. cheers

Yeah, but can the tuner? cheers

If it has provision for idle control and engine water system air bleed, I am interested in one for testing. cheers

Well done on getting it finished, it's such a great felling to hear it burst into life the first time. I have used the same basic running in process for lots of years and on many engines; Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter. Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm. Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so it will be bypassed ie; no filtering. Check the basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor. Drive to Bathurst and back, around 500k's, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc. Don't rev the beegeesus out of it, gentle but firm, change throttle openings often, no slogging it in high gears with lots of throttle. Much better to load it up with partial throttle openings going up hills. Drain the GTX and remove the oil filter. Refill with Castrol Edge 10W60 and fit a new oil filter. Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno. Go racing Cheers

Two words to keep in mind Automatic + ATTESSA cheers

I have yet to see an EManage work successfully on an auto Skyline/Stagea. The first releases had problems with over heating ignitors and coils, leading to total ignition system failure. The main problem is, because the EManage sits in between the ECU and the ignitors, it interferes with the ignition retard and cut on gearchanges. So you get harsh gear changes and the resulting premature wear on the bands and clutches. The above is why I use an SITC, as per the following thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642 cheers

Bump for the people who can't use the search button. cheers

“Piggy back” means you use the SAFC (DFA, SITC or equivalent) to “bend” the signals going from the various sensors to the standard ECU. An example would be using the SAFC (or DFA) to ”tune” the AF ratios via changing the AFM voltages that the ECU sees. The Jaycar DFA is very similar to the Apexi SAFC, so the DFA thread is 99% applicable to the SAFC. Do a search on SAFC’s if you need further info. cheers

A few years ago we tested the standard RB25 inlet manifold, throttle body and 75 mm intercooler pipework on the flow bench and it showed almost zero pressure drop at an airflow rate equivalent to 500 bhp (300 rwkw). We didn’t test any higher as that was the limit of the standard RB30 internals.. On the R34GTT did the usually boost pressure test, comparing the boost pressure at the compressor outlet with the boost pressure at the plenum and at 315 rwkw there was less than 2 psi pressure difference. That’s with a standard R32GTR intercooler. So until you get well over 300 rwkw I would be worried about the intercooler pipework, the throttle body or the inlet plenum being any sort of restriction cheers

All items have been ordered on the 31st as the PM didn't arrive until 7.15 pm on the 30th, ie; too late for ordering that day. As advised in the PM, Bilstein takes 1-2 working days to machine the additional circlip grooves. So they should be ready tonight/ tomorrow morning. Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I will PM you the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. Over 60 guys have their stuff from this Group Buy. With 100% success rate so far, I don't think you have anything to worry about. cheers

Looks OK to me, more than acceptable. A straight side on shot without the reflections would be handy. cheers

I removed a set from a very clunky GTR last week. They were cracked due to impact and also seized due to water ingress and corrosion. I will have some pictures shortly to post up. When fitting them make sure you put them in the right way around. Otherwise you will end up with massive caster and no camber adjustment. Yes I have seen it done, its easy. cheers

Cons, a quick list; 1. They don’t absorb impact like a bush, so you get increased NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). 2. They don’t absorb impacts like a bush, so you get a higher propensity for cracking around the joint. 3. If they aren’t water proof, they will corrode. 4. If they aren’t greaseable they will wear out quickly. 5. They are expensive to replace, in comparison bushes are cheap. 6. In themselves, they are not adjustable ie; they require other means of adjustment. 7. They have no deformation capability, so any slight misalignment will result in premature wear eg; hit a gutter slightly, tweaking the wheel alignment 8. They are heavier therefore increasing the unsprung weight if used in the outer joints. With a bit more thought there are probably a few more cheers

When you go over a bump/bumps the suspension needs to be able to droop enough so the wheel/wheels stay on the ground. Tyre contact with the road is obviously important for turning, stopping and accelerating. How to adjust droop? Well it depends on what is limiting it. If it is the shocks, then you need to increase the extended length of the shock. Removing any internal travel limiters is the first step. You could fit fit lower spring rates, they will need more compression to take up the weight of the chassis. So they will have more droop when the weight is taken off. cheers

Try this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207 Then this one; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642 cheers PS; many of the guys on here have had Stageas for a couple of years. There is very little that we haven’t previously discussed and resolved. Please try a search first, as the chances are, no matter what you want to know, it’s been covered.

No, that's why I said cheers

The big problem I find with changing roll centres (something we used to do on the V8 SuperCars as infrequently as possible) is that it changes EVERYTHING else. The springs rates that worked OK before, no longer are right, ditto the damper setting, anti roll, camber settings, ride height, toe alignment etc etc. So, the setup information that you have developed over the years, becomes compromised because of the change in roll centres. All of the “factory” set up information becomes useless. Basically you have to start all over again on your development path, gather a whole new set of information. You can’t share this information with the guy next to you, unless he is running the same roll centres as you. Now this is all very well when you have 2 cars and 20+ guys in the race team and plenty of time (money) to do the necessary testing. Not to mention the skills base necessary to interpret the results and the logging equipment to gather the data in the first place. If what you are seeking is improved lap times, then there are much better ways to achieve it than changing the factory roll centres. Keeping in mind that Nissan always had Group A competition in mind when they built the R32GTR. Unlike many other cars, the factory roll centres are not terrible. cheers

No problems with numbering, I do it myself all the time. That's great info, pitty I am not in WA to take advantage of your experience. Re #4, The light coming in through the windscreen always makes the front window tinting look lighter anyway. The “5 year coat” is a worry, my Stagea is 9 years old. So it’s 4 years past its use by date. Still looks pretty dark, so I guess it looses its reflectivity (heat and light) but not its colour. Or is the “5 year coat” typical Nissan conservatism and it will last for 25 years? cheers

Fantastic to have someone who knows, can I please ask some more questions? So are the standard Stagea rear/side windows 35%? What are the standard Stagea front/side windows? Are they the same as the rear/tailgate window? I found the info on the tinting front to rear very interesting. The tricky question, how close is the front to rear match if you try really hard? Is it daylight (pun intended) difference? Or is it more like, in certain light conditions you can JUST notice it? I assume the rear/tailgate window isn’t such of a matching problem as it is “around the corner” and you don’t see it with the other windows. cheers

I have logs of a couple of runs from the R33GTST down the ¼ mile at WSID, they are posted up in the Teach Edge thread. I can’t see any real differences in A/F ratios between 2nd , 3rd or 4th gears. Keeping in mind that I do most of the high load/rpm tuning in 3rd gear on the road, 4th gear is simply too many kph. cheers

Since you are not going to do this upgrade yourself, what we tell you (parts and prices) is pretty useless. You need to find a workshop and ask them. Doing it as cheaply as possible, following is an indicator of what I would keep, modify or sell 1989 r32 sedan = keep Standard RB20 internals = Sell, buy a complete RB25DET Apexi FMIC = keep Apexi Power FC = Keep Garrett 28RS turbo = Sell, upgrade to GT30 GTR injectors = Keep GTR fuel pump = Keep Standard AFM = Sell, upgrade to Z32 Air pod with heat shield = Keep Spit fire coils = Keep 3 1/4 exhaust from turbo = Keep HKS suspension = Yuk Upgraded brakes = Keep Heavy patrol clutch = Keep Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator = Buy Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors. If you haven’t already done it, run a dedicated wiring harness (from the battery) and relay to the fuel pump, that will give it 13.8 volts which will be enough for 300 rwkw. The Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator will enable you to stretch the injectors to 300 rwkw by increasing the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard) to 45 psi. I would use new rubber fuel hoses and clamps, 1989 one will be well past it. Ditto the vacuum lines, all of them. Depending on the current condition of the RB20DET gearbox and how you treat it, it might last a while, but I would budget on upgrading to an RB25DET gearbox fairly soon. My guess on prices; RB25DET $2,500 GT30 turbo $2,600 RB25DET gearbox $1,500 Install, wiring changes and tuning labour $3,000 (I added $500 for contingency because shit happens) Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator $150 (Nengun) Z32 AFM $300 Total = $10,050 My suggestion, sell the R32GTST and buy an R33GTST, it will be cheaper. cheers