Sydneykid

Sorry for repeating myself but dod you notice this question? The real question is, why are the A/F ratios so good? Maybe ECU chipped, pull the cover off and have a look. cheers

I am not suggesting you change your wheels, unless you have 14" ones. That would make the gearing shorter anyway and you want longer don't you? If you have 16" wheels, then you most likely have 225/50/16 tyres, which give the same roilling diameter as 245/45/17's. Cheers

The Apexi SITC changes the CAS signal at 5 rpm points, with interpolation between them. So you achieve the timing that you want. This thread covers fitting an SITC to a Stagea; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642 cheers

You buy one from your local Repco, SupaChaep, AutoBarn, AutoPro etc. cheers

185/60/14 = 905 revolutions per mile 245/45/17 = 808 revolutions per mile That's an 11% difference, which means a 4.363 diff ratio with 245/45/17's is the same as a 3.9 diff ratio with 185/60/14's. At 7,500 rpm with a 3.9 diff and 245/45/17's it's gunna do 305 kph. Do you really need that sort of top speed. If you don't, then all that effort/cost making the diff ratio taller will simply result in slower acceleration. cheers

For that boost level, cat back and those A/F ratios I would say 130 rwkw is about right. The dyno must be a bit "happy" to get 150 rwkw The real question is, why are the A/F ratios so good? Maybe ECU chipped, pull the cover off and have a look. It is certainly not a high flow turbo as the boost drops off just like a standard one. cheers

Michelin DRAG slicks? I didn't know Michelin made tyres for drag cars. cheers

Can we please make this a sticky, it might save a few guys emailing me everytime the thread dissapears off the first page of the section. cheers

Was that me? If so After the 443 4wkw with 2530s' I am not so sure I can guess it. The race brew makes the numbers somewhat unpredictable. The raw maths say 550 4wkw. So I will throw that in as my best guess. Good luck guys, we have a Friday drinks rule One JD for every 100 horsepower So you better get started. cheers PS; the boys get all excited when we stick a blown 7 litre on the dyno, it means plenty of beers for them

Rubbish, absolute rubbish, who the hell fed you that load of crap? Some guy trying to sell you a bar plate intercooler I bet. Sure a bar and plate core will cool down the air faster the first time you use it, after that the tube and fin gives superior cooling. Sure if you are into drags only, go the bar and plate, as long as you let it cool down between runs. How many examples would you like of fast Skylines using tube and fin intercoolers. Let’s see; 1. the Gibson GTR’s all used tube and fin intercoolers and they won every meaningful Group A race in Australia for 3 years. 2. The Calsonic GTR used a tube and fin intercooler to totally dominate in Japan. 3. the Mines GTR uses a tube and fin intercooler, the bench mark by which all road/circuit GTR’s are measured 4. the Apexi drag GTR used a tube and in intercooler for 1100 bhp 8 sec ¼ at 160 or so mph Shall I continue, there are several more pages of examples? cheers

Changing vlave springs without removing the head is easy. Compressed air via the spark plug hole is enough to hold the valves closed while you remove the collars and swap the springs. I use the leak down tester, as it has all the necessary plumbing fittings to get a good seal. cheers

Personally I wouldn’t get too carried away with changing the diff ratio, the standard R32GTST diff ratio of 4.363 to 1 will give you ~275 kph at 7,500 rpm in 5th using 245/40/17 tyres. So it is hardly short of top speed. Cruising at 110 kph in 5th gear results in 2,950 rpm, which keeps it off boost for all but the heaviest of throttle applications. You can roll on and off the throttle to hold a constant speed without getting a mad rush of boost/power, which helps the fuel economy too. I like the current first and second gear ratios, with the 4.363 diff, as I can slip off the line with no boost, shift at 3,000 rpm and still easily beat most cars. If you tall up the diff ratio you will find you have to use boost to achieve meaningful acceleration. Don’t let the VL RB30 Commondoor 3.7 diff ratio fool you, they came with 14” wheels as standard, 15“ was an upgrade. cheers

Always register your car in joint names, or better still in a company name. That way they can’t impound the car for any period of time because legally it’s not “your car”. It belongs to someone other than the driver, so they can’t punish them for something that they didn’t do. Yes, it has been tried in court, it stands up and has precedent. Car registered in joint names, father and son. Son gets busted for “doing wheelies”, BS charge BTW, car gets impounded. Father needs car to go to work. Police say “no it’s impounded for doing wheelies”. Father takes it to court and wins, gets car back the same day. Pregnant wife joint owner was even better, got that car back in under 5 minutes in court. Police and RTA not impressed, most angry prosecutor. This is one of those cases when time is not your friend, get the car back NOW. cheers

Stabilisr bars are the same on S and S2. They are $219 each for adjustable on the Group Buy and $194 each for fixed rate bars. Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buch handling upgrade you can make. cheers

Do a search if you want the full story, in summary…….. Bar and plate cores are good if you do short power bursts, they have more aluminium (weigh more) so they are a better heat soak. But they take longer to cool down. Hence good for drag cars and road cars that get short burst of power then cruise. They do limit the airflow to the radiator more than tube and fin cores. Tube and fin cores are good for more constant power applications, they weigh less so not as good for instantaneous heat soak. But they shed heat quicker than a bar and plate. Hence good for circuit race cars and cars that see long periods of sustained power. cheers

Certainly turning off a hot, plain bearing, oil cooled turbo is a very bad idea. Not quite so bad with a ball bearing, water cooled turbo, but still not a good idea. What you really need to determine if the turbo is cool enough to turn off is the core temperature. Which is neither the turbine cover temperature or the EGT. If you have turbo blanket, ceramic coating or wrapping on the dump pipe, I suspect that either turbine cover temperature or the EGT would give you solid indication of what is likely to happen to the core temperature when you turn the engine off. cheers

There is a well known motoring journalist who started an urban myth that R32GTR intercoolers were thinner than R33/34GTR intercoolers. So I closely compared the dimensions and there isn’t any difference. One urban myth dead. When challenged on this, the story changed to the R33/34GTR intercooler has more tubes. So I counted the number of tubes and there isn’t any difference. Another urban myth dead. The current story is that internally they are different. Unfortunately I haven’t had an R32GTR core and an R33/34GTR core at the same time that I can justify cutting up. So until I dispel that urban myth, I can’t answer the question. If some one wants to donate a damaged R32GTR intercooler and a damaged R33/34GTR intercooler, I will most gladly do the comparison. I like killing myths. cheers

At idle and low rpm’s there is some difference in the EGT’s in the primary pipes, as close as you can get to the valve practically, compared to the EGT’s at the turbine outlet. But as the rpm and exhaust flow increases, the temperature drop becomes negligible. The only reason we measure EGT’s at the primary pipes is to pick differences between cylinders. Keeping the above in mind, I would place the EGT sensor behind the lambda sensor in the dump pipe. That ensures it doesn’t mask the signal to the lambda sensor. cheers

All 100% true (I would expect nothing less), but (there is always a but).......... Having tested several intercoolers (results in many previous posts) when we were building the first R32 Improved Production car, I can say with absolute certainty that oils ain’t oils Sol. Do a search if you want the full story, in summary…….. Bar and plate cores are good if you do short power bursts, they have more aluminium (weigh more) so they are a better heat soak. But they take longer to cool down. Hence good for drag cars and road cars that get short burst of power then cruise. They do limit the airflow to the radiator more than tube and fin cores. Tube and fin cores are good for more constant power applications, they weigh less so not as good for instantaneous heat soak. But they shed heat quicker than a bar and plate. Hence good for circuit race cars and cars that see long periods of sustained power. When you cut open a few different intercoolers you quickly see how much difference there is internally, particularly with the fins inside the tubes/bars. The air passes over/around those fins and sheds heat as it travels through the core. Some cores have longitudinal (parallel to the airflow) fins, some cores have no fins at all and some cores have lateral fins (across the airflow). Obviously a core with no fins will flow more (for the same ID tube) than a core with longitudinal fins and tubes with lateral fins will flow the worst. But a core with no fins won’t cool as well. Lastly, the way the airflow is handled as it enters/exits the tubes/bars is important. This includes the end tank design. Rough edges, poor welding and blanked off parts of the tube/bar are indications of a poorly made core. The ultimate test for us was to measure the boost at the compressor outlet and the plenum. This tells us the pressure drop across the core, how well it flows at that power application. Then compare the temperature at the compressor outlet and the temperature at the plenum. We also kept a close watch on engine water temps as a check of the effect of the intercooler on the airflow to the radiator. Add the two results together and you have a complete picture. We tested a number of 600 X 300 X 65-75 mm cores and the standard R33/34GTR intercooler came out best every time. It wasn’t until we got to an 85 mm thick aftermarket core that we found any improvement. But because of its much greater internal volume, it lost noticeable throttle response at the power output we were running at the time (around 300 rwkw). So armed with this information you need to ask these questions; How much does the core weigh? Is it tube and fin or bar and pate design? Which is better for your application? What sort of internal fins does it have? What is the pressure drop at the core at your power target? What is its internal volume? Then take a look at the end tank design? And the tube/bar finishing inside the ends tanks? Then (and only then) can you can make an educated decision on which intercooler you should spend your money on. cheers

Water temp is basically irelevant to intercooler performance, as far as power output is concerned. cheers

It's cold in Mexico and they really need to learn how to warm up the brakes as well as the tyres Cheers

Of course the XR6 won't gain anything from an intercoler upgrade, it's a closed loop system, even worse than the R33GTST. Without tuning it will probably lose power. If you make the boost the same at the compressor outlet, then it will make more power (with tuning to compensate). Every R32GTST we have fitted a FMIC to has made noticeably more power without tuning. Because their boost control system is before the intercooler. Subi's retard below their set ignition timing, they do not advance above their set ignition timing. If you reset the ecu, they will then only loose power from there, they never gain it. Chicken and the egg, which comes first, tuning or intercooler? cheers

Personally, I have found the standard R33/34GTR intercooler to be better than any brand of aftermarket intercooler of the same size. cheers

This such an old question and the arguments are still the same. The R32GTST wastegate actuator is 10 psi. But R32GTST don't get 10 psi at the plenum (more like 8.5 to 9 psi) Because the take off for the wastegate actuator is at the compressor outlet ie; before the intercooler and pipework. The R33GTST wastegate actuator is 4 psi. And R33GTST get 4 psi at the plenum Because the take off for the wastegate actuator is after the intercooler and pipework When the solenoid opens (bleed off) they get 6 psi, but that's not the point. So if you change to a freer flowing FMIC and pipework on an R32GTST then you get 10 psi at the plenum. Hence you get more power from just fitting the FMIC without changing the BOOST SETTING (but the boost changes). This of course doesn't work on an R33GTST because you still get 4 psi at the plenum. The wastegate actuator takes its feed AFTER the freer flowing intercooler and pipework. So the turbo itself is producing less boost then it was with the standard intercooler. But on an R33GTST, surely it is fair to say that you should return the boost to the same level at the compressor ie; add 1-2 psi at the plenum. So that the turbo itself is producing the same boost as it was with the standard intercooler. It depends an your opinion as to whether that constitutes MORE boost or not. cheers

Mmmmmmmm.......tricky. I have heard this problem with adjustable radius rods not giving enough caster before. When I checked they had supplied GTST radius rods (longer) instead of GTR (shorter). Obviously not the problem in your case. I have no idea why they can't get more than 5.5 degrees, the Whiteline bushes give 6.0 to 6.5 degrees on R34's usually. Maybe try comparing the lengths to the standard radius rods with the bushes fully ofset for max positive caster. The 1.3 degrees of negative camber is close to the least I have seen (1.5 degrees), but the 0.7 is way less than what I have encountered. Sounds like there is something bent on that side. Try swapping the upper control arms from side to side and see if that changes the readings. cheers