Sydneykid

Do a search, the search button is your friend. cheers

I have said this many times, so I apologise for repeating myself if you have read it before. The GCG ball bearing high flow on the R34GTT made more power EVERYWHERE than when it was standard. That’s from idle to redline. cheers

I haven’t been interstate racing with the GTR’s, but Sandown certainly was no harder on brakes with the RX7. It runs very high brake temps at 2 spots on the circuit at Sandown but Oran Park has 3 very high spots and Eastern Creek has 2 highs and 2 very highs. Oran Park is the highest brake wear circuit. You can certainly see the brake temps drop as you increase the corner speed. I really believe that’s the secret. You only have to look at the lap times, there are 600+bhp highly modified Skylines that are 5 seconds a lap slower than the Production GTR. It isn’t straight line speed, it’s all in the corners. That means the brakes work harder to get the higher straightline terminal speed down to the lower cornering speed. The bottom line, as I always say, spend the $6K on suspension and driving lessons. You will do a faster lap time than spending the same $6K on brakes. cheers PS; the High Energy sump currently in the sig. is the best off the shelf solution I have found for a 2wd. Obviously they won’t fit a 4wd, the Performance Metalcraft sump is the best for them.

Why? cheers

SARD side feed injectors are actually designed for Toy engines (1JZ and 2JZ) hence they need adaptor collars to fit RB's and SR's. So make sure you get the collars with the injectors. cheers

Slightly different Brembos on the R33GTR's, but close enough. The engine is full N1 spec, blue printed very carefully, N1 turbos, no cat, race exhaust etc ECU is free, hence it has a Motec So the power is ample (or in RR terms, "adequate") The trick is it goes around corners very well, so it doesn't use the brakes as much as some. The Improved Production GTR actually has less power due to the turbo restrictors But it is lighter and has more suspension mods, so it ultimately does quicker lap times But not because of power, it simply goes around the corners even faster The reality is I think State Championship level racing puts more emphasis on braking performance than a lap dash, super sprint, hillclimb or social track day. Keeping those persky Evo's out under brakes for 1/2 an hour requires some braking performance. cheers

Uneven loading on the oi pump rotor and it will crack. Maybe not today, but eventually. So it's not a good idea. cheers

Australian S15 (manual and auto) injectors are 370 cc's, same as RB25DET JDM S15 manual injectors are 480 cc's. So be careful cheers

The Production R32GTR N1 runs the standard Brembos with DBA rotors, AP600 fluid, braided lines and Hawk pads. No problems in a 1 hour race at Bathurst, 2 hour race at Oran Park or 1 hour race at Eastern Creek. It won all of those races by the way. Does that count? cheers PS; Obviously it's full weight, no lightening what so ever is allowed and the driver is not light.

Some more details and maybe a picture of the 600 X 300 X 100 intercooler. cheers

There are really 2 things to consider, temperature control and airflow; Temperature control, 200 rwkw is no problem, we have seen 215 rwkw which was OK on normal day. But in traffic on a hot day, it simply wasn't adequate. On the circuit for a couple of laps it was OK, but any longer and it heat soaked noticeably and started to knock. Airflow, 200rwkw is no problem, we have seen 215 rwkw at 2-3 psi pressure drop, any more and the pressure drop skyrockets. This is OK as long as the turbo has excess capacity. But when you want to use the turbo to produce its target airflow you will be compromised by the capacity of the core. cheers

PM reply sent cheers

By the sound of it the shock adjustment is for rebound (shock extension) only. This is OK for drags on the front, let’s the front wheels droop fast for nose lift. But not so good for the rear, where you need less bump (shock compression) valving so the rear squats under acceleration. You actually need more rebound (shock extension) valving on the rear to hold the back down for better weight transfer. Plus, more rebound (shock extension) valving helps to reduce the axle tramp This is why single adjustable coil overs are pretty much a waste of time on a drag car. My suggestion would be to run the front shocks on full soft (for more droop) and wherever you feel most comfortable on the rear and enough to avoid any axle tramp. cheers

Wheel bearings...... I have NEVER EVER replaced wheel bearings on a Skyline, they are monsters. I have seen cars with 300,000 k's still with good, original wheel bearings. Are you sure the problem was wheel bearings? 1. Hit anything recently? Are you sure it's not camber of the road, so that water runs into the gutter? Did they set it up with more caster on the left than the right? This helps to offset the road camber problem. 2. Sounds like warped brake rotors, have you had the run out checked lately? cheers

On first installation of a PFC, I use the Commander to; 1. check the water temp gauge calibration (where are 50/60/70/80 degrees on the gauge) 2. the boost gauge correlation (do they agree) 3. the alternator charging (battery voltage) 4. the throttle position sensor (am I getting 100% throttle when the pedal is to the metal) 5. the tacho correlation (do they agree) 6. the speedo correlation (do they agree) 7. the AFM cleanliness (is the voltage increase somewhat linear with rpm or does it jump all over the place) 8. check that the ignition timing is actually what it is running (using a timing light) If I am tuning ignition timing, I run only knock display Nice and large, very easy to see if changes in ignition timing (advance) cause knock If I am tuning A/F ratios I run, injector duration and knock Nice and large, very easy to see if changes in A/F ratios (leanness) causes knock and exactly how much injector timing I have left. Generally I run AFM voltage, inlet air temp, injector duty and knock, as they are not covered by other gauges. Personally any more than 4 displays and I find it hard to read them while driving. cheers

OK here’s your problem. In typical Nissan manual gearbox fashion I bet you have around a 3,000 rpm drop on the 1st to 2nd gear change (ie; ~7,500 rpm to ~4,500 rpm). So you need a pair of turbos that make full boost at 4,500 rpm and at the same time have the airflow to support 7,500 rpm without dropping of boost. That narrows the search down somewhat. When I was looking at twin turbos for the RB30, our turbo supplier (GCG) suggested a pair of Garrett 2871RS with the 0.64 turbine for circuit work and the 0.86 for drag. They come in T25 and T28 flange patterns. This was based on what the VG30 guys were running successfully (both 3 litres). Keep in mind we have largish cams, extensive headwork, 9 to 1 compression ratio etc etc. How this compares with your set up is important cheers

One of the things I notice with guys new to RB’s is they tend to point the timing light vertically, straight down at the timing mark on the cam cover. This is wrong, the timing light needs to be 25-30 degrees off vertical, towards the airfilter, (the RHS looking at the engine). If you point the timing light vertically you see about 5 to 8 degrees advanced from where the timing really is. Move the light (and your head) across to the right and you get a better indicator of the real timing. cheers

Am I reading this post and the mods list correctly, you running a Power FC with an Auto? It's the Splitfire coils that are frying? cheers

Injectors, at standard pressure, around 265 rwkw (same as the fuel pump) Intercooler, 300 rwkw no problems Cheers

Take a look at the sump, if it has wings then it will most likely be OK. If it doesn’t have wings, then I wouldn’t be going anywhere near a circuit until it does. Especially if it’s a 4wd. Just because it lived a life in Japan, doesn’t mean it will live one here. The guy driving it might have been a woos and blasted down the straights and trickled around the corners ie; no G forces to cause the oil surge. At the very least watch the oil pressure and temperature guages like a hawk the first time out. Cheers

By "softer" I assume you mean spring rates and shock damper rates. "Soft" does not mean that sloppy, worn bushes are OK. At launch the idea of softer spring and shock rates in the rear is to lessen the hit of torque, such that wheelspin is lessened. At the same time a squatting rear end (in a RWD application) allows transfer of weight off the front to the rear. This also gives more traction, not just at launch but for some time thereafter. cheers

So all you are interested in is the sound, so why run a filter at all? That will be the loudest, make the most noise. Sure it will stuff up the turbo and the engine in pretty quick time, but you don’t care about that, you are only concerned with the sound. The real answer is that there isn’t much difference in sound from an unshielded POD. They all make pretty much the same amount of noise. Of course an unshielded POD with no ambient air feed looses noticeable horsepower from the hot air ingested and gives worse fuel economy. But hey you don’t care about that, you are only concerned with the sound. cheers PS, I put this thread up there in my Top 20 worst ever questions

Hi, you can also simply buy 6 X 10 ohm resisters from JayCar or Dick Smith. Then wire them in series, one for each injector. You can do that as a pack, with the 6 resistors all shrink wrapped together, or one located at each injector. cheers

It's running lean after the enrichment for cold start and running finishes ie; when the water temp sensor says the engine is warm. On the Commander you will find the master settings for fuel and ignition. This adds fuel at all load points and is very useful for your sort of problem Once it is warmed up, simply add fuel until it runs OK, then drive it gently to the workshop for tuning Remember to remember the correction % as it has to be reloaded every time you turn the ignition off. It is also useful to tell the tuner as it gives him a place to start tuning from. cheers

Hi, thanks for the thanks. It’s really a selfish thing, I get so many PM's asking what size restrictor to run. So I figure if I made up a table and posted it I wouldn’t get so many PM’s. The guide is for what ever cylinder head you use, the block is irrelevant. Hence the RB25/20 non VVT column. Whether you use an RB20/23/24/25/26/27/28/30 bottom end is irrelevant when it comes to restrictor sizes. Cheers