Sydneykid

PM sent cheers

No change to the intercooler plumbing either. But I used silicone joiners, maybe they were a little longer. As previously mentioned, you will have to redrill the lower bell housing bolts, but that's a 5 minute job. I didn't lengthen the dumps either, but they weren't standard ones. I upgraded the sump (Performance Metalcraft) for GTR oil surge prevention. Plus added an oil cooler, of course. I also extended ther lower cam cover, so it met up with the standard RB26 top cover (keeps the rocks out) cheers

None, but I would suggest using the RB20DET wastegate actuator as it has a 10 lb spring (RB25's have a 6 lb spring). cheers

That would be a panel beater, make sure they have the data for a Skyline Yep more caster on the LHS front to stop the drift into the gutter caused by the camber of the round. But 20 mm is a bit too much cheers

a/c lines = not a problem, the A/C compressor is in the same place ps pump lines = not a problem, the power steering pump is in the same place rad hoses = not a problem, the standard hoses fit just fine harnesses = the engine harness actually goes downwards on a RB26, so they actually fit better on the RB30 earth straps = not a problem, they bolt to the block in the same places. The only different one is the exhaust manifold to LHS inner guard. But I always use a larger capacity cable anyway, so no big deal. Plus you have to change it if you change the exhaust manifolds. cheers

Repeat after me ............happy dyno.............. 295 + 75 X 1.34 = 495 bhp I don't think so Tim cheers

That's an early version, I have some stuff on the later versions (in Winfield colours). I will dig them up and post them. cheers

I read that thread at the time and I had a couple of difficulties. The main one being switching/pulling the ATTESSA fuse doesn't remove all of the 4wd train losses. You really would have to remove the transfer case completely to achieve a 100% result. Secondly there is loss in the rollers themselves, so no matter how hard you tie the car down, there is always some slip. The slip differences between 2wd and 4wd can mask other factors. For example you may have more slip in 2wd hence the power reading is lower than it really should be. As posted many times we have done a couple of engine dyno versus roller dyno versus hub dyno power runs. The % loss method is (as many have pointed out) totally illogical. Newtons law (fire up that high school physics) says energy is transformed not lost. So the kinetic energy (torque if you like) has to be transformed into some other type of energy. In the case of cars, most commonly, that is heat. If you are using the % method, doubling the horsepower of an engine should results in doubling the heat (in the gearbox, the diff, the drive shafts, the CV joints etc). But a quick check with the pyrometer shows that to be complete rubbish. What we have found in the engine dyno versus roller dyno is a 2wd Skyline loses (transforms actually) around 60 kw and a 4wd around 80 kw. A hub dyno is around 20 kw less, as they have no rollers. Totaly off subject, so let's get back to the turbo comparison............ As far as I ma concerned all the aftermarket turbos in that comparison are too big for a 2.6 litre engine. So it's not a matter of which turbo is good and which turbo is bad. They are all bad as far I am concerned. Stick Paul's 450 rwkw 2530's on the graph and you will see what I mean. cheers

There is one important difference, you sell turbos to make money. I set up Group Buys to save the guys on SAU some money, I don't make any money out of them myself. So I feel that I can have unbiased input, I like it that way, so that I don't have to put forward a view that I personally don't believe in. Point 2, I never commented on your turbos, I restricted my input to plain bearing turbos in general. You have taken that as not sticking to the topic. My opinion is I don't want to be seen to be attacking one product in particular. I can go into fairly specific details on how and why plain bearing turbos have failed. For example; Silver R32GTR Oran Park November 2004, track day (this is not a race car). Turn 1 short circuit 6,250 rpm in 2nd gear accelerator at around 30% oil level was slightly under max, maybe 1/2 litre mid corner oil surge to zero oil pressure for not more than 0.2 seconds #5 big end bearing failure, knock, engine shut down Rear turbo complete failure, bearing torn by shaft contact the bearing also rotated in the core and damaged it beyond repair the compressor blades hit the compressor cover they shattered and spread metal through the inlet system the turbine blades hit the turbine cover and damaged it Front turbo partial failure, bearing made eccentric by shaft contact, no core damage it took many hours to clean the metal from the inlet system including the intercooler Yes I did speak to the owner/driver before the event and warned him about oil surge in GTR's. He chose to ignore my warnings, with the comment "GTR's were designed as race cars...........". Would you like me to post up a few more examples? I can probably do 20 or so if necessary. As the guys on here will tell you I am a put up or shut up kinda guy, so here's the go.......... Send me one of your turbos I will stick it on one of the 2 cars that I personally have with ball bearing high flows on them (Stagea or R33GTST) You can choose which one Without touching anything (tune or boost) I will run it up on the dyno If your turbo makes with 10% of the current power from 3,000 rpm to 7,000 rpm I will pay you for it, post up the dyno comparison and I will endorse it on SAU in anyway you like But if it doesn’t make within 10%, what will you do? cheers

It could be something as simple asa worn radius rod bush, or something as bad as a bent chassis rail. Any decent suspension shop should be able to do a complete wheel alignment check and point you in the right direction. Cheers

Same rear bar BNF26 (X, XX, Z, XZ or XXZ). Front bar is different though. cheers

Sure there are 800 ps GTR's, but the 600 ps Mines R34GTR street car beats almost all of them. From memory the JUN Hyper Lemon Evo V has the time attack record with a 55.9. It has around 560 bhp, so a 600 bhp power limit is going to advantage the lighter cars like the Evo. The problem is power to weight, not simply power on its own. If all cars weighed the same, stopped the same and handled the same, then a power limit makes sense. I reckon if someone wants to run a 1,000 bhp GTR let them do it, it won't win anyway. But it would be fun watching them try. cheers

I will have a set of DAYZ skirts, yahoooo When do you reckon Andy will get his skirts? I don't think he wants to go skirtless Cheers

OK, looks like a special bar is needed. I can arrange for the return and a credit for the standard bar. It's no problem to make, just need to know how much to modify it. The standard bar fits right? The 24 mm whiteline bar is, what, 8 mm closer to the sump? So all we should need is 8 mm extra in the step out to clear the sump? How about 10 mm just to be sure? Can you please check it as I don't want Whiteline to be making 3 or 4 bars to get it right. Some tips; The pictures you have taken are too close, I can't get a real perspective on how much. Hang the bar off some cable ties, as low as necessary until it fits, plus do up the links Then take some photos and measure how far the D braket is off the subframe. cheers

For small injector upgrades the SAFC’s seem to work OK, so 370 cc’s to 440-480 cc’s would be OK. Once you get over that you are past the same limit for standard internals anyway. So you might as well change the inlet to a Greddy and go for top feed injectors, where there is a much larger range at lower prices. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator (Nismo bolt on, ~$150 from Nengun) will also help the SAFC tuning as you can juggle the fuel pressure to get the target A/F ratios. cheers

Yuk! We have 2 Nissan SuperTourers with SR20's, personally I wouldn't touch one. Ugly valve train, no end of problems. Weak alloy block, spindly crankshaft. I take the RB31DET with the extra 80 kgs thanks. And the extra 200 rwkw cheers

GCG have not set a time limit. I guess it depends on the response, if its to slow for them it will be closed. My best suggestion, get in sometime before 30th June. cheers

SBS = Stabiliser Bar Special 24 = 24 mm Because the Group Buy specifiies extra adjustment holes it's not a "standard" BNF28Z. Hence the use of SBS24. cheers