Sydneykid

PL's idea is that "family" means R32GTR, R32GTR VSpec, R32GTR Vspec 2, R32GTRN1 etc In order to get approval for IP (same as Silvia), you have to show that there are sufficient of them. That people can buy them. That you don't have the only one etc etc. That's where the DOTARS list comes in handy. cheers

You can actually measure it with an infra red pyrometer. We do that to check individual cylinder tune. Cheers

V Spec 2's have Brembos and so need 17" wheels Or it could be VSpec 2 N1's only that have Brembos cheers

Sorry I don't remebr how much they cost (not cheap), Pipercross agents are; Revolution Racegear 592 Whitehorse Rd Mitcham Melbourne Tel: (03) 9873 8700 [email protected] www.revolutionracegear.com.au Stores throughout Australia. Fabre 4 Frazer Street Lakemba NSW Australia 2195 Tel: 6129 758 1966 [email protected] www.fabre.co.au cheers

Old news, Pipercross have been doing it for years. cheers

Exactly why it isn’t done, very time consuming and difficult to duplicate the exact conditions. Also difficult to isolate the under bonnet temperature reduction (horsepower improvement) from the increase exhaust gas velocity (horsepower improvement). What I can say is I have wrapped the primary pipes and collector on an N/A V8 and it picked up 18 bhp, that was on the engine dyno. The principle is basically the same, maintaining the exhaust velocity to give better scavenging. cheers

The car is log booked as an Nissan Skyline R32 Coupe 1990 model I always carry the necessary paperwork with me, the car has been scrutineered for eligibility and 20 or so times at meetings When you apply to have cars included on the list you need evidence/proof The DOTARS list is proof of the car being elligible for import, nothing more. Add that to the list of compliance plate holders as additional proof of eligibility. Not all models of R32/33/34 are homologated, Nissan didn't think it was necessary As long as they comply with Touring Car mininim dimensions that's not an issue The list is constantly being updated (BTW; as manager of the race team I was the originator of the Cyborg in IPRA ) My best friend PL doesn't agree that the R32GTST is in the same "family" as R32GTR We agreed to disagree on that point (glad to see that you agree with me) So we moved on to getting them on the list, stops any problems then cheers PS; I just had lunch with the technical officer

NO cheers

The tyre temperatures will tell you how much camber you need. cheers

I do quite a few drive days and have to take passengers/customers Plus it needs a passengers seat for Sports Compact Doesn't need one for IP racing of course But does for Imported Cars classes in most supersprints and lap dashes cheers

There are models of R32 coupe that don't come with HICAS standard There were 2 releases of R32GTST M with GTR alloy bonnets and front bumpers Being a Late Model, front and rear bumpers and side skirts changes are legal All models of R32/33/34 have been requested to be approved for IP racing, same as S13 was recently. Since they are/were on the DOTARS list and comply with FIA Touring Car requirements there is no issue cheers

I have only seen a flow test on one set of standard 350Z injectors (300 cc's) and they flowed less than R34GTT injectors (370 cc's). They were more expensive as well. Part numbers as follows; JECS # 166005L700 Bosch # 166002Y915 cheers

So any one who believes that $1750 for a ball bearing high flow is better value for money is bitchin? Let me give you another example of why I never use plain bearing turbos, EVER. Just before Xmas I was doing a suspension set up clinic for an aftermarket suspension manufacturer. There were quite a few guys there with turbo cars, an S14 being one of them. It had an off the shelf fairly new Garrett plain bearing GT25 for around 400 bhp (240 rwkw). About an hour into the day the alternator wiring died from the heat and shorted out. This killed the electrics and the engine simply stopped, instantly. We towed it in, let it cool down till after lunch and I bodgied up the wiring so he could finish the day. Started it up and it wouldn’t make any boost, dead turbo due to the plain bearings seizing up from the heat soak and cooked oil trapped in the core. So the guy wasted $450 for his day and it cost him $600 to fix the turbo. That makes his decision to buy a plain bearing turbo not so economical. As I said in a previous post, it's your money, spend it how you like. cheers

Hi Andy, lots of questions; 1. If you have a 10 tonne press, it’s very easy. Most guys remove the rear upper control arms (all 4) and the front radius rods (2) and take them to their local workshop to have the old rubber bushes pressed out and the new adjustable polyurethane ones pressed in ($50 or so usually covers it). Then they refit them and take it along for a wheel alignment 2. Yep 3. Simple DIY job 4. After fitting stabiliser bars? No. After fitting caster and camber bushes? Yes. 5. I don’t have my price list with me, I will work it out exactly tonight and PM you. If the order is over $500 delivery is free. 6. Adjustable stabiliser bars are $219 each and fixed rate bars are $194 each Cheers

Impossible, the radius rod would have to be longer to get zero caster. Hence straighter, therefore bent less, not more. Usually less caster is caused by the front subframe (where the radius rod bolts to) being bent or displaced. This happens when the wheel hits something rigid while the car is moving forwards (ie; straight ahead into a guttter will do it). cheers

I would add that there comes a time when tuning with an SAFC where you want to lean it out a bit more. But you can't because that advances the ignition timing and it knocks. So you end up with richer than desirable A/F ratios and hence sacrifice power. Power that you could unleash with a Power FC by virtue of its independant control (mapping) of fuel and ignition. cheers

RACESPEC has a Group Buy on alloy intercooler pipework with this design. We used it recently on the R33GTST. Cheers

The radius rod is bolted to the lower control arm and goes forwards to the subframe. It stops the front wheel from moving backwards and forwards. cheers

Hi Justin, I believe that you may well be confusing someone elses pictures. I never filed anything. I most certainly wouldn't fit the D bush half way around the bend. And I definitely would not suggest that anyone do either of those things. As I said in the previous post, there were some Whiteline stabiliser bars made incorrectly. The bending machine was programmed for the outside diameter of the U bend instead of the inside diameter. Hence making the U bend too narrow. This was picked up by a couple of the Stagea Group Buy guys and I arranged with Whiteline for their bars to be replaced free of charge. There was never a part number change, the rear Stagea bar has always been BNR11 (X, XX , Z, XZ or XXZ). My guess, is the suspension shop that you bought them from may not know the correct story. cheers

No cheers

Just in case the new Stagea owners haven't seen this. cheers

Let's start off with ................. this is the original picture of the stabiliser bar boxes from the Stagea Suspension thread showing the part numbers that I used on my Stagea (there is no difference in suspension between S1 and S2 that I have seen). Secondly as per the current Whiteline catalogue the part number for an adjustable R33GTR rear bar is BNR11XZ (heavy duty = 22 mm) and BNR11XXZ (extra heavy duty = 24 mm) Keeping the above in mind; B = Bar N = Nissan 11 = shape X = heavy duty XX == extra heavy duty Z = adjustable If you look at the picture of the stabiliser bar boxes you can see I used BNR11XZ. That was 2004, since then I have upgraded to BNR11XXZ as I felt it needed the extra rear antiroll. SO I don't see where or why Justion had a problem with the part numbers based on the Stagea Suspension thread. If anyone would like to look under my Stagea and make sure that I haven't butchered anything please feel free to do so. You will quickly see that the stabiliser bars fit perfectly. Whiteline did make a mistake with the manufacture of a couple of Stagea rear bars where the U bend was made to the internal dimensions instead of the external dimensions. Perhaps Justin was affected by that, but the stabiliser bar part numbers in the Stagea Suspension thread are correct and always have been correct. cheers

Not enough to notice cheers

Thanks and yes it is getting difficult to buy. I will give them a call. Cheers