Sydneykid

Hi Glen, 19" wheels and the low profile tyres they force you to run, simple accerbate any harshness in the suspension. And sherical joints in radius rods is about as harsh as you get. Correcting the caster missalignment will help the straight line stability. But it won't do anything good for the harshness that's for sure. cheers

Hi, you should be able to get it to around 2.5 degrees negative (remember every car is different). KCA348 Front Camber kit $272.00 Freight $5.00 Total $277.00 Payment Required at Time of Order Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. Please don't forget to send me full name and address for the order plus a contact phone number for the courier in case they need directions or instructions if no one is home. Bushes are usually in stock at Whiteline Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I will PM you the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. cheers

One cycle is not going to do anything. Think about it, you snap off the throttle every gearchange. The injector duty cycle goes to zero while you change gear Until you get back on the throttle What's the difference? cheers

Hi Scott, 10 mm, no problem, forget about it, move on. Cheers

First attempt at a table; -------------------- -------------------- RB26 -------------------- -------------------- RB25/20 -------------------- -------------------- -------------------- RB25 -------------------- -------------------- No VVT -------------------- -------------------- No VVT -------------------- -------------------- -------------------- VVT -------------------- -------------------- Front Feed, Rear Feed -------------------- Front Feed, Rear Feed -------------------- VVT Supply, Front Feed, Rear Feed Standard Oil Pump Road ----------------------------------- 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.5 mm, Drag ----------------------------------- 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.5 mm, Circuit/Drift ------------------------------ 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.25 mm, RB26 N1 Oil Pump Road ----------------------------------- 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.5 mm, Drag ----------------------------------- 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.5 mm, Circuit/Drift ------------------------------ 1 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1 mm, Aftermarket Oil Pump (Jun HKS Apexi Trust etc) Road ----------------------------------- 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.5 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.5 mm, Drag ----------------------------------- 1 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1.25 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1.25 mm, Circuit/Drift ------------------------------ 1 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ 1 mm, Block off, ------------------------------ Leave, Block off, 1 mm, Note that all of the above assumes; 1. Standard Nissan clearances 2. Oil cooler (where necessary) 3. Improved oil control in the sump (where necessary) including wings, baffles, one way doors etc 4. External oil return from cylinder head to sump on all circuit/drift cars and drag cars with non standard oil pumps 5. Hydraulic followers in RB20/25's. if changed to solid followers then use RB26 restrictor as above 6. Castrol Edge 10W60 (or equivalent)\ 7. Improved oil flow in the cylinder head return galleries through the block. 8. Refer previous posts in this thread cheers PS; This guide is for what ever cylinder head you use, the block is irrelevant. Whether you use an RB20/23/24/25/26/27/28/30 bottom end is doesn't matter when it comes to restrictor sizes. It's all about what oil pump you use, what cylinder head and what you use the car for.

As you can see from the picture of my turbo below, the holes (some turbos have slots) allow the air to enter further out on the compressor blades. This is an attempt to avoid the compressor surge problem that occurs when you have a large turbo on an engine that won't take the airflow at mid to low rpm's. Cheers

They are bypass holes, they don't increase the maximum flow capacity of the compressor. They are used to prevent the problem that paulr33 explained in the previous post. cheers

Turning the fuel totally off to a cylinder doesn’t not cause lean running in that cylinder. No fuel = no combustion, therefore there is no running for it to be lean. Remember we are talking maximum rpm here. In the unlikely event that there is any fuel left over from one cycle, it will be consumed in the nest cycle. One cycle of combustion of a miniscule amount of fuel will not damage anything. cheers

Suspension, I like to go around corners fast Exhaust, a must on a turbo engine Power FC, cause Nissan ECU’s are a pain in the ass. cheers

For some months we have been running 5 X Skylines (1 X R32GTST, 2 X R33GTST’s, 2 X R32GTR’s) and 1 X Stagea on Optimax Extreme 100 ron and can only report good things. More power, better response, less knock, cleaner plugs in all cases and similar fuel economy in most cases. Slight improvements in economy have occurred occasionally, but never any worse economy. They have varying amounts of modifications, from a simple boost up, intercooler, SAFC tune for 165 rwkw in the Stagea to a full on 450 rwkw in the R32GTST. Thus far I have only tuned one of them specifically to run on 100 ron, the R32GTST. Plus one of the R33GTST’s now satisfactorily runs the default Power FC ignition mapping, which it wouldn’t do before due to noticeable knock. cheers

As I always say, every car is different. cheers

Does that mean you think 10.8 is as fast as it is going to go with the standard gearbox? cheers

What sorta mods? We haven't experienced that until we change the turbo, with the standard turbo they (about 25 so far) are always around 11's. Correction, I did encounter one with higher than standard fuel pressure that was 10.5 ish. cheers

Hi, as you increase the engine torque output you will find the torque converted stalls at a higher rpm. For example I can get the Stagea up to 2,500 rpm on the standard turbo which gives 11psi at launch. This generates considerable heat, so make sure that you have a decent transmission cooler. If you can spin the wheels now, then decent tyres will help. I like the MT Street radials as I don’t have to change front tyres and the guys are down to low 10’s using them, so they obviously work OK. Cheers

Why? cheers

Last time we forgot about the importance of spectators, which meant money for the track owners, we had no track to race on. I'm old enough to remember Castlereagh and what it meant when we didn't have it. Because at the time all we racers cared about was ourselves and our cars. cheers PS; just in case there is any doubt, I will repeat that I attach zero blaim to the other competitor.

Our white R33GTST project car, sort of a replacement for the R34GTT daily driver I had a couple of years ago. Bought it cheap a few months ago, needed rego and SOME work, it's getting there. So far it has a Power FC with Boost Control Kit, standard R32GTR intercooler, alloy 120 degree pipework, Bilstein and Whiteline suspension, GTRGeoff HICAS eliminator, Magic cat, Nismo FPR, GTR fuel pump and a quick and dirty road tune by me using the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter. Following the clutch failure at WSID, right now it is getting a new clutch, lightened flywheel and serviced gearbox (no synchro on 4th and 5th). Plus I had to drive it home clutchless (testing my dog box rpm matching skills). We just wanted to get a base time on the standard turbo, but too much traction from the MT ET’s for the unknown clutch. A GCG ball bearing high flow is ready to go on shortly with a Performance Metalcraft split dump, followed by a set of injectors and a pair of 256 Tomei Poncams. Looking for around 265 rwkw and a mid 11's 1/4 at around 125 mph. Before then it will get some new DBA slotted rotors, a set of Hawke pads and a timing belt change. Plenty to do, no time to do it in. cheers

Sorry Adrian, I should have added "if everything else is equal", the 2 fastest should meet at the end of the day. Common Shane, as for the guys competing not being concerned, who cares? Happy spectators are what the organiser is interested in, they pay the money. So don't ask the guys who compete, ask the spectators what they would have liked to see. What they paid their money for? What will get them back next time? I'll bet you it wasn't Theo copping a red light. Broken cars are something spectators learn to live with, but a red light for not staging as fast as another guy is a different matter altogether. BTW I don't believe anybody has been whinging, simply pointing out that is was unfortunate, bad for spectators, could have been avoided and that there are possible solutions. That's not whinging, it is simply looking at what went wrong and trying to do better next time. I don't see any difference between that and looking at a aborted run, working out what and why and then making sure it doesn't happen next time. cheers

I vote for an R32GTR with an RB31DET with the same amount of money spent. Lighter, more power and (best of all) 4wd, something a Supra simply doesn't have. Plus it's Godzilla and has a racing heritage second to none. Easy decision cheers

Wow, the memory isn't that bad, the VLT box has the extra 213 rpm drop on the 3 --> 4 change compared to the RB25 box. In fact the VLT box has wider spacing between all gears, except 4 --> 5 which is irrelevant anyway. cheers

I see what you mean, but it is a legal SRWD, so it should be allowed to compete in the class that it was built for. Maybe some grading of the match ups would be a solution But that's always a problem with elimination rounds I know the idea is to have the fastest 2 cars face each other at the end of the day But with the size of SC fields here, it doesn't seem to happen often enough (just like everyone else, I would love to see side by side 8 sec pass from a pair of Skylines) "Lucky loser" is always an option for the organisers, leave one spot open in each round, it's not that hard. We used to have a bit of a chat amongst the crews when there was a big discrepancy between the cars Especially when it was a rooky driver, it always pays off to let them know what to expect Hopefully the sportmanship angle isn't totally dead (not that that appears to be a problem in this case) At the end of the day I still think it comes down to the start line official using his discretion. cheers

I am assuming he is on unemployment benefits Work out how much he can pay back each fortnight Even if its $20 it's better than nothing Talk to the workshop owner and explain the situation Offer to pay the bill off a fixed amount every fortnight Offer to sweep the floor, clean the toilets, get the lunches whatever it takes Make sure he goes there personally and hands over the cash Let them know when he is on the job hunt That he is trying to get a job and pay off his debt faster cheers