Sydneykid

My 20 cents worth; 2 teeth is a lot more than 4 degrees, more like 15 degrees Check the ignition timing with a timing light, I would be very surprised if it's set correctly (15 degrees advanced). The slot in the CAS usually doesn't allow for 2 teeth out on the pulley. It is possible for it to jump a tooth (two teeth is a bit unusual) when the cam belt wears. It gets a bit loose and if you get a backwards rotation (sometimes happens at starting) they can jump. How tight is the belt? Check the bolts holding the pulley to the camshaft, I have seen lose ones cause the belt to slip. Ditto the camshaft tensioner bolt, if it's loose the belt will easily skip. Look for wear marks on the cam covers, that will tell you if anything else is an issue. That's about it, personally I would replace the belt, set the camshaft timing and igntion timing correctly and enjoy the power improvement. If you have the budget ($150 or so) think about getting and adjustable camshaft pulley, easy to fit while you are at it. Hope that was of some help cheers D

PM sent cheers

Hi Adam, best to send me a PM first to confirm the exact cost. cheers D

Suggestion to your questions follow; 1. Yep 2. Some are monotube, some are twin tube 3. As Roy posted, yes, but both at the same time. So if you want, say, 10% more rebound damping, you also get X% more bump damping. Even if you don't want any increase in bump (it is already stiff/harsh enough). You will have to ask Tein what the X% really is, it varies from partically nothing to ship loads. 4. The hardware is very nice and shiny, good quality. But if you don't lubricate the threads they will seize anyway. It is hot, dirty, wet and dusty under there. 5. Preload on the spring is only relevant to how much droop and compression travel there is available. It DOES NOT affect the spring rate (don't know where that stupidity came from). Usually there is plenty of travel as long as you keep it at a reasonable ride height. Some people get carried away and lower them so far there is no travel left. But by then the suspension geometry will be so far out of whack travel is the least of their worries. cheers

Hi Shane, the higher lift means the cams have steeper profiles needed to fit the lift (open and close) within the duration (time). This means the valves open and close faster. In addition you have to use higher rate valve springs to make sure that the valves close (follow) the cam lobe’s profile. So you have faster and harder closing valves. Just like a rapid and heavy hitting hammer, this will eventually wear out the valve seats, pound them flat. In addition you will experience similar wear on the valves themselves. The quickest wear being the seat area where the valve seals on the seat. As this wears, the seat becomes wider and may even leak. Both of these costing noticeable horsepower. The rapid pounding of the valve heads will eventually fatigue the valve stems around the head mushroom. Given sufficient repetition, the valve head will eventually fall off causing (at the very least) catastrophic damage to the piston and cylinder head. Also you have faster opening valves with stronger valve springs resisting this opening. This means the cam lobes themselves and the buckets wear out faster. Higher lift also increases the angles on which the lobes affect the buckets. This side loading results in faster wear of the valve stem seals, which will leak oil into the combustion process and cause a loss of power and generally premature detonation. This rapid wear factor why you don’t see huge horsepower GTR’s making 100’s of ¼ mile passes in a year. This is why you have drag engines that do little real kilometres, able to be built/tuned to make more power than circuit racing engines that have to last a season. An extreme example is a F1 engine, that is very lucky to do 1,000 k’s before a full rebuild is required. Or a top fuel drag engine that does one pass before a full rebuild is required. So to answer your questions; 1. RB26 valves are already stainless 2. Stronger valve springs actually increase wear, not decrease it. I use valve springs just strong enough to control the valve, make it follow the lobe and resist the targeted boost pressure. 3. Personally in a circuit race engine, I never use cams over 10.3 mm lift to minimise the side loading and the valve seat wear Hopefully that answered your questions cheers

Arogosta street kits used to use Japanese Ohlins. Their race kits use genuine Swedish Ohlins. I have used them both, there is no comparison the Swedish Ohlins are far superior. The only Jic's I have seen have been leaking like crazy, so I don't have a very high opinion of their life. Never seen Zeal in a car. Shock rates will affect the ride comfort, particularly bump (compression) valving. The rebound valving has to be in line with the spring rates and to a lesser extent the stabiliser bar rates. So a 12 kg/mm spring is going to need substantial rebound valving to control it. Otherwise the spring will recoil many times after the initial compression (think pogo stick). Most definitely a 12 kg /mm spring is going to feel harsher with a crap shock, than one with decent shock valving sophistication. It is very unlikely that a coil over with a 12 kg/mm spring rate is going to be as comfortable as a coil over with a 4 kg /mm spring rate, given equal shock valving sophistication. cheers

A few of the guys have asked me about removing the standard lambda sensor. Following is a picture of the Bosch F&W lambda sensor plugged into the fitting on the standard dump. Lambda sensors are usually very hard to remove and get to with a spanner. So I take the turbo heat shielding off and unplug the wiring pins from the standard plug. Then I can get a 22 mm ring spanner onto the lambda sensor hex and unscrew it. More tuning progress shortly. cheers

As the guys have pointed out, cam duration selection is all about the rpm range you want to use and maximising the average power. So look to your gearbox ratios as a guide. Lift is about how often you want to rebuild it. As always, you need to keep in mind how much money you want to spend. cheers

Hi Ryan, it would help your cause greatly if you fixed up the "Janglish" on your web site. It's very confusing and doesn't help the buyer at all. "Precise control damp valve" Does that means it's raining? Only has one valve? I also notice the same spring rates are quoted for GTR's (4wd) and GTST's (2wd), surely there are different springs rates to allow for the substantial weight differences. Best to put them up on the web site rather than confuse the potential buyers. cheers

The spring rate is the spring rate. How tall the coil is makes absolutely no difference to the spring rate. It only affects how high or low the car can go. Cheers

13 & 8.7 kg/mm is beyond belief. We run 6 & 4.5 kg/mm on the 2WD race cars and 4 & 3.5 kg/mm on the 2WD road cars. cheers

Beware harsh post following............. So you are prepared to sacrifice handling, acceleration, braking, tyre wear and ride for looks, because you can't afford to buy decent tyres for the 18"s. Personally I would spend the money on good 17" tyres and know that I had a GTR with better handling, faster accelerating, longer tyre life, superior braking and more ride comfort. cheers

The title of the column is not "Spring Rate" it is "Basic Spring Set". That means the diameter (70 mm) rate (5 kg/mm) and height (250 mm) of the main coil springs (as distinct from the helper/tender springs). cheers

As the guys have said, ride height is critical, so measure it. If it's below 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) on the front and 345 mm on the rear then it's too low. Raise it up to 355/345 and then meaure the camber. I have never seen an R33GTR go much over 2 degrees at that height. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits The Group Buy link for R33GTR follows; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87826 As well as all of the prices, it has some usefull tips and feed back from the guys. cheers

Could be free height of the spring, the fronts are around 250 mm and the rears are slightly taller, so 275 mm is logical. cheers

Now that it is tested it, is time to actually use it. I did a quick fit to the project R33GTST, as it has a few of the usual mods, is running the default maps and consequently needs a little tuning. The LD02 is on the dash above the Commander (reading 14.12 at idle, no closed loop). The WB02 itself is on the ash tray, you can see the running and lambda temp sesnor lights. Mods to date on the R33GTST are; Standard R32GTR intercooler Alloy intercooler pipework with my preferred 120 degree bend at the throttle body Turbosmart BOV Power FC with Boost Control Kit 3” Kakimoto cat back Magic 4” cat NGK copper spark plugs Boost is set at a ceramic safe 10 psi R32GTR fuel pump Nismo fuel pressure regulator What I am looking at doing is tuning it using only the WB02 and the knock senor read out on the Power FC. Then sticking it on the dyno and comparing what I achieved with what our race team tuner can achieve with the Dyno Dynamics and the Motec lambda sensor as per a common dyno tune. At a later date we will be fitting a GCG ball bearing high flow turbo with a Performance Metalcraft split dump, an injector upgrade and most likely a set of Tomei Poncams. The power target is to reach similar output to the R34GTT which was 265 rwkw. Once again I will tune it using the WB02 and then compare it with the dyno tuned results. We are using the Tewblog logging program written by Justin Luton (downloadable from the Tech Edge web site. I have also registered the software as I feel Justin has done a great job and deserves his $US20. This also frees up some of the otherwise locked features, such as the ability to read large logged files. Which is important considering the 1MB logging upgrade I included with the WB02 build. Over the next couple of days I will post up the Tewblog logs showing the out of the box (default) settings from the Power FC. Then I will tune it (maybe over the weekend) and post up the finished logs for a quick comparison. cheers

Well, I finally had enough quiet time to complete the Tech Edge Test Procedures, all 16 pages of them. Thankfully it passed all tests first time through, so either my kit building skills are improving or I was just plain lucky. This is what the finished product looks like. The power cable has a cigarette lighter socket on the end for easy and quick temporary installation. The lambda sensor cable is long enough to reach to the tail pipe, but for this tuning I have removed the standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensor and replaced it with the Tech Edge supplied fast and wide Bosch sensor. I want to tune the low rpm, idle and cruise A/F ratios, so not having the standard lambda sensor (no closed loop running) is an advantage. I have also made up a wiring harness to enable connection from the WB02 to the Power FC. This will facilitate the data logging of; Throttle angle Engine RPM AFM voltage Exhaust gas temperature Engine water temperature MAP sensor output More details later……… cheers PS; if you have considerable experience building electronics kits, have some rudimentary circuit reading skills and enjoy the challenge, this kit is one for you to consider. If you have never built a kit before this is NOT the kit for you.

We have the shock rates, stabiliser bar sizes and alignment settings to accommodate around 350 lbs per inch in the front and around 225 lbs in the rear for circuit racing. For road use around 225 lbs per inch in the front and 180 lbs per inch in the rear. Plenty of guys use higher spring rates than us to make up for their deficiencies in shock damping, anti roll and alignment. cheers

The front spring and shock rates would be too high for an R34GTT. The R33GTR is ~200 kgs heavier, mostly over the front wheels, due to the 4wd system. cheers

Hi Steve; Fronts are ~230/345 lbs per inch (4.1/6.1 kg/mm) Rears are ~175/305 lbs per inch (3.1/5.4 kg/mm) None one I know will touch Japanese Ohlins, even the Australian Ohlins agent doesn't have spares. Cheers Gary

Toe out can be referred to as an "ubstabilising" setting Toe in is considered a "stabilising" setting So if you want more response, go for toe out If, on the othe hand, you want more stability, go for toe in Hence toe out on the front makes that end of the car more lively, reponsive to inputs such as steering. Toe out is on the front is good for improving the initial turn in to a corner for example. Conversely toe in on the rear makes that end of the car more stable, less reponsive to inputs such as power application. Toe in is good for decreasing the power oversteer on corner exit for example. As always you get nothing for nothing. If you run toe in on the rear to help decrease the power oversteer the side effect is more reluctance to run into the corner. The rear end remains stable rather than move out to assist the turn. So the common RWD Skyline setting is toe in on the rear and toe out on the front. That should be enough to get you thinking cheers

My guess would be #5 Nothing to do with injectors, I reckon More likely combustion temperature caused by water flow through the jackets Maybe the short run from #5 to the turbo on the standard manifold We flow test Skyline injectors all the time. Using the standard rail, with the pressure reg at one end and feed at the other, there is no difference in the injector flow rates based on their location in the rail. Individual injecotrs may flow slightly different amounts (up to 3% is not uncommon). But when you move the injector, the flow difference travels with it. So it isn't the location in the rail causing the difference, it's the injector itself. cheers