Sydneykid

Ah yes, but you have solid followers with clearances, the R33 RB25's have hydraulics with zero clearance. There is not a lot of difference in the valve opening. cheers

Let me think; POD, heat shield, substantial air feed Performance metalcraft split dump 3.25" Nismo exhaust No cat OS Giken twin plate with flywheel No HICAS No aircon Electric fan Power FC with BCK Castrol 10W60 oil Oil cooler Optimax NGK copper plugs One full day tuning on the dyno (plenty of time spent around the boost build rpm) All on a 170,000 k's old RB20DET, that showed OK leak down figures for its age cheers

What ECU are you using? You have to match the ignitors with the ECU. Not all aftermarket ECU's work with all ignitors. I haven't seen a singe pack aftermarket ignitor for aftermarket ECU's that runs 6 cylinders. Most likely you will need 2 X 3 cylinder ignitors. Unless you are going to run wasted spark, in which case you will only need 1 X 3 cylinder ignitor Last time I priced a 2 ignitor 6 coil (with leads) system retail, it worked out at (200 +200 + 65 X 6 + 5 X 6) = $820. Which is a pretty expensive solution compared to the alternatives. Personally I would replace the faulty ones with used standard coils or buy a set of Splitfires and save some money. cheers

OK I give up, isn't the 10W a measure of its cold viscosity? When I poor 5W30 out of the container it looks pretty much the same thickness as 10W60. The 60 means it keeps its rating at high temperatures, like a 60W viscosity would. So the way I understand it 5W30 versus 10W60 is really 5 versus 10 in "thickness" when cold and 30 versus 60 in terms of holding the viscosity at high temperatures. I thought the 60 meant that the engine COULD run larger tolerances (even when very hot), not that it HAD to run larger tolerances. Isn't it the other way around? If you build the engine with large tolerances and for sustainded high temp work you HAD use 10W60. But if you have an engine with road car tolerances that doesn't mean you CAN"T use 10W60, it just means you CAN use 5W30. Personally if I have an engine that has done 100,000 k's or so, I have no idea what tolerances it is now. Using the oil that tolerates the largest tolerance (ie 10W60) would seem logical, as there is no downside from doing so. Or have the Castrol tech guys been jerking my chain all these years? cheers

To give you some idea of what you are dealing with, the standard spring rates are around 3.5 kg/mm and a set of road/sport springs from Kings or Whiteline are around 4 kg/mm. cheers

Hi Nick, I didn't know you had no boost gauge and a sticky mess on dash, sure sign of a modified past. Any turbo shop can measure the wastegate actuator, but first I would check the vacuum hoses. Look for signs of them being changed or modified, clamp marks, cuts, no restrictor etc. It is easy to swap the hoses around and get 7 psi all the time via bypassing the solenoid, have a look in the DFA IEBC thread for pictures. If you are sending the turbo off to them to get it high flowed, GCG will check the wastegate actuator. cheers

My suggestion would be to go for adjustable stabilisr bars rather than very high spring rates. That way you can back off the antiroll with the stabiliser bars for road driving. Check out the Group Buy on R32GTST Whiteline/Bilstein parts first, it has most of what you need; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85466 Then if you have any further questions please ask away. cheers

Done it a few times, so I have a have a system. I use a vacuum cleaner pointed at each bucket as I grind it. I fill the gaps with grease, which I can wipe off later. I also stick some glad wrap over the rest of the area that I am not working on. As usual it takes much longer to set up/clean up than is does to actually do the die grinding. But certainly better than taking the head off. And it is only 0.5 mm, in soft aluminium alloy, so there is not exactly tonnes of red hot swarf flying around all over the place. It is far more clinical than that. Cheers

What is a big lumpy cam in an 2.5/2.6 litre, is not so ugly in a 3 litre. The extra 20% capacity smooths the power out a lot. Personally I wouldn't hestitate to stick 264's in there. As I have mentioned several time, this "machining" to fit higher lift cams is grossly overrated. Plus you can get some serious lft before it is even necessary, I only had to remove 0.5 mm to fit 10.3 mm lift cams into an RB26 cylinder head this week. The actual tolerancing took about 20 minutes with a die grinder. Done in the car, that is not what I call "machining". cheers

They know the specs very well :lol: , they just don't want anyone else to know. cheers

Correct, but the difference is not dramatic, I don't think it would be more than 250 rpm later to 1 bar with the R33/RB25 turbo. The R34/VG30 turbine covers wouldn't be my choice, another 500 rpm or so I reckon. cheers

I didn't intend to remove the fitting, but the sensor was rusted/corroded in. When I applied turnng force with the ring spanner it screwed the fitting out rather than undoing the sensor. The fitting is still nicely attached to the sensor which is tucked up under the carpet under the passengers front seat. It never measures hot cats there. cheers

Bilstein Australia received a top up air freight shipment for this model as there were no fronts left. They now have enough for 5 sets, then there will be a delay (of unknown length) until Japan orders and we can tag along. cheers

Update in the other R32GTST thread. cheers

Only 2 sets of R33GTR Bilsteins left, so the Group Buy will be finishing shortly. cheers

The recently sold race car (not a Skyline) was done this way, it worked fine. The only problem is you have to leave the unit in the car all the time, if you take it out there is no lambda sensor input to the ECU ie; no closed loop running. I did that for a couple of days without thinking about it, driving around (rally rego) to signwriters etc and it sure guzzled the gas. While I am tuning the Stagea (for a week or so, in all conditions) I wil run NBsim, remove the standard S&N lambda sensor and replace it with the F&W one. That way I won't have a cable running through the cabin and an expensive lambda sensor hanging out the rear. Asking to be hit or stolen. : cheers

We had a GCG ball bearing high flow on an RB20DET (170,000 ks' old), made 225 rwkw at 1.3 bar with 1 bar at 3,000 rpm, no boost drop off till 7,500 rpm, made good power to 8,250 rpm. Highly recommended. cheers

The adjusting tool is called a "C Spanner" and you can get them from any bearing shop (CBC and ABC have branches all over the place). Your local one will be in the Yellow Pages. You need to know the diameter of the spring seats so you can get the right sized C Spanner. There are universal ones but they cost heaps more. cheers

Hi Michael, as usual the numbers tell the story; A 9.5” rim is 241 mm wide A 275 tyre is 275 mm wide That’s 34 mm of “bag”, which is OK for a drag application. But not so good for a circuit or road application where cornering forces come into focus. If I was using the car for circuit/road use then 245’s or 255’s would be a better (faster) option for me. cheers

I used aftemarket boots, look the same as the Nissan ones but 1/4 the price. All you need to know is the CV OD and the drive shaft OD, then you buy the boot to suite. Don't forget the grease. cheers

Holy crappolla, so sorry, shaft broken. Usually you find that sort of damage when you have loose objects in the inlet. I don't believe that just happened instantly, it has been building for a while. Maybe out of balance for some time due to a small hit. I would check out the inlet system very carefully, make sure there is none left to do it again. That's painful. cheers

Our race team fabricator uses a sheet of glass, the result is a much smoooother finish he reckons. cheers

I strongly suggest that you have read of this thread and then you can make up your own mind which way you want to go. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=sphericals cheers

I strongly suggest that you have read of this thread and then you can make up your own mind which way you want to go. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=sphericals cheers

You should read back over my posts in this thread, #27 for a start. There has only been one guy so far asking for progressive rate calculations which I did for him. Because he was the only one, I haven't bothered to post up how to measure progressive rate springs so I can work out the rates. If more people would like me to work out the rates of their progresive rate springs please let me know and I will post up the how to guide for the measurements. If you don't like my calculations, perhaps you would like to take over this thread and do the calculations yourself for the guys. I have no problem with that, I have plenty of things to do. cheers