Sydneykid

Usually on shocks clockwise is harder, anticlockwise is softer. This is what I do when I am training a driver to understand what each adjustment does on the race car, drive fast but not flat out (9/10th's if you like); 1. Set everything on full soft, do 2 laps. Think about what that feels like, write it down 2. Set everything on full hard, do 2 laps. Think about what that feels like, write it down 3. Set the front on full hard and the rear on full soft, do 2 laps. Think about what that feels like, write it down 4. Set the rear on full hard and the front on full soft, do 2 laps. Think about what that feels like, write it down Now you have some idea of what everything does and how it feels. Start adjusting to suite your own preferences. Every car is different, different tyres like different settings, every day is different (sometimes a little, sometimes a lot) and each driver has their own preferences to suiite their driving style. There is no right or wrong, whatever suites you will generally give the fastest lap time. The object is to try everything, know what it does so that YOU can choose the best one on the day. cheers

The injector on the left is top feed for an R34GTT RB25DET Neo The injector in the middle is side feed for an R33GTST RB25DET The injector on the right is top feed for an R32GTST RB20DET or R32 GTR RB26DETT. Obviously they are physically not interchangeable. cheers

No, they are not all the same. There are different software versions for each model of car, plus there are different software versions in Power FC's. So you have to get the right Datalogit version for the Power FC software version. Have a look at; www.fc-datalogit.com cheers

Hi Bass, SARD make a straight fit injector for the Neo, I think they were rated at 460cc's but they flowed a bit more than that at standard pressure (36 psi above boost). They are on 85% duty at 265rwkw, that's at standard pressure. I did try them at 50 psi and the duty dropped to 70%, so there is plenty to go. I stayed at standard pressure though, as I am not keen on replacing all of the rubber hoses with braided ones. Rubber hoses, screw clamps and 50 psi doesn't sit too well with me. cheers

The EManage is a piggy back solution, there is no comparison to a Power FC (FC =Full Computer). I wouldn't bother with an EManage on an R32, if I only wanted to spend $700, then I would get the R32 ECU chipped and tuned live on the dyno. cheers

Oh well, go with the same pressures (mid 30's) as the Falkens. I suspect you may have to go up a bit closer to 40m, but try the mid 30's first cheers

This article tells you most of what you want to know; http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_15_Skyline01a.htm cheers

I bought a used Jap no name brand 3.25" exhaust for $350, spent $50 on extra pipe for the longer Stagea and a standard R33GTR cat for $50. Total $500. cheers

Should just sneak into the 10's. cheers

Suggestion follow; 1. Around 200 4wkw seems to be the max from them 2. Around 190 rwkw (ie; not much more than the non neo RB25DET turbo) 3. Around 265 rwkw at 12 volts. bit over 300 rwkw at 13.8 volts 4. Around 400 awkw if it is a good one 5. No difference to power, but essential for durability 6. Slight improvement in 1/4 times 7. Should do 200 awkw easily 8. Good for response and average power. The weakest link is 190 4wkw. so that would be around mid 13's. cheers

Yep, you can use the spare hose to plumb the vent (restrictor) back into the inlet. You can also swap some of the hose lengths around to make it neater if you want. cheers

Shoooooot, in Vic is the difference between 95 ron and 98 ron really 10 cents?????? In Sydney the difference between 92 and 98 is 10 cents, and 95 is half way in between. cheers

That vacuum circuit is a parrallel solenoid style, the IEBC uses a serial solenoid system. I would post up a picture on how to modify the circuit but I can't get the upload to work. I get this error report; Error creating thumbnail! Error code: 127 Command: "/usr/bin/X11/mogrify" +profile "*" -size 200x168 -quality 70 -geometry 200x168 -unsharp 10 '/home/websites/93/www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Unknown_Wastegate_circuit.jpg' So the best I can do is repost this I have also put some dots on the part of the vacuum circuit that you posted, you simply join the dots. Put the hose with the red dot on it onto the solenoid where the matching red dot is Put the hose with blue dot on it into the T piece where the matching blue dot is The yellow dot shows the end of the T piece where the vent (restrictor should go) cheers

Around here there is only 4 cents a litre difference between 95 and 98, that's $2.40 per tank fill. Personally, I pay the $2.40 for the extra performance. Plus I get better economy on 98, so I reckon it under $2 a tank difference. And fuel is tax deductible for me, so that's $1 per tank, can't buy much for a buck cheers

I actually had typed a rude come back, but it wasn't in my style, so I deleted it. :lol: :lol: :lol: If he had 205/55/16's on 9's I would suggest a lower pressure than the same size tyre on 6's. Anyway back to the question at hand. Actually more questions, what model Trampio are they? The sidewall construction determines the tyre pressure, and that varies a lot. The Falkens will like mid 30's hot, I wouldn't go over 40, they crown rather badly on 6.5" rims. But if they were on 9's, then low 30's would be the go. Size does matter. Sorry that rude comment almost snuck out. cheers

That's an excessively simplistic question, the answer is, it depends on what engine configuration. Do you upgrade the RB25, or swap in an RB26, or go for an RB30? Twin turbos or single? Manual or auto? There are many ways to get a Stagea into the 11's, just pick one. cheers

As many have said, running in really depends on how the engine was built. What tolerances the engine builder used, what materials where used, hone on the bore etc. Simplistically bearings don't need running in these days, they are fit to run out of the box. So there are really only 2 things that require a run in period. #1. I call this clean out, bascially it involves making sure any dirt, machinings, gasket goo etc are cleaned out of the engine. That is why we change the oil filter after 5k's or so. This takes anything that the filter picks up out, leaving no possibility of it sneaking back into the engine. It isn't necessary to change the oil at this stage, but some people do. I use 100% mineral oil, something like the basic Castrol GTX, it's cheap and easy to get anywhere (handy for top ups). #2. Rings, this is the vital part of any engine run in, particularly a turbo engine. They need mixed loadings, never full throttle, high rpm or high boost. Long up hill runs are good, where you can load the engine up with a bit of throttle and hold speed but vary the load. I find the run to Goulburn and back is great, it has all the mixed conditions. At the same time as I do step #1 (at 50k's) I check the A/F ratios on the dyno. It takes about 10 minutes, but I make sure that it is neither too lean (detonation risk) or too rich (patchy run in of the rings). It costs like $50, and from other posts on the forum you can see why I reckon it is compulsory. After step #2 I do a leak down test, I am looking for over 90%, preferably over 95%. If I don't get that, then I do another run, maybe over the Blue Mountains to Bathurst, plenty of variable loads there. When I do get a good enough leak down test, I change the oil (to Castrol Formual R Synthetic) and oil filter. Then it's onto the dyno for a proper tune. cheers

I built one 5 years ago, it made 475 bhp on the engine dyno, it is still going and is up around 70,000 k's now. It has standard RB30E everything and a standard RB25DET cylinder head that was ported. The big advanatage with 3 litres compared to 2.5 litres is you don't have to use the same high rpm to get the power. Lower rpm = longer life. Keep the boost down, tune it right, service it regularly and a 475 bhp RB30 will live longer than a 475 bhp RB25. cheers

Hi Ray, the throttle sensor output is pin #56, it sounds like you have used pin #48 which is the power supply to the throttle sensor. cheers

There is big difference between 11.9 and 11.0, so let's try the middle 11.5 needs ~600 bhp (360 4wkw) That's about $40K worth, including gearbox and drive line upgrades because I reckon it's gunna break the Stagea stuff with 600 bhp and 1800 kgs to pull. Almost everything from the fan to the rear diff will need to be upgraded. cheers

What size rims? cheers

You have the vent (restrictor) in the wrong hose, it needs to go in the vent hose (that's the red one) not in the hose to the wastegate actuator (that's the yellow one). No wonder it doesn't work, all of the boost is going straight into the inlet, the vent (restrictor) is limiting the airflow to the wastegate actuator so it is not opening the wastegate. Take the vent out of the hose to the wastegate actuator (that's the yellow one) and put it in the hose to the turbo inlet (that's the red one). Then you will get airflow to the wastegate actuator which will open the wastegate and control the boost. cheers PS; I suggest you remove the diagram from the previous post as it will confuse other people and they may copy the wrong way.

I stuck my guess at the prices in the previous post above. That's doing the fitting labour your self and building the DFA and IEBC. cheers

According to the 1/4 Mile calculator you will need 370 bhp (280 kw or 215 4wkw) to do a 12.9. That's simple; SAFC or DFA $70 IEBC $70 SITC (if you can find one) $210 Ball Bearing hi flow of the standard turbo $1800 Split dump $500 3.25" exhaust with hi flow cat $500 Adj exhaust camshaft pulley (for average power, not max power) $170 Standard injectors (maybe with an adj FPR & slightly higher fuel pressure) $180 GTR fuel pump (standard wiring OK) $150 R32GTR intercooler (or equivalent). $400 + $450 for pipework Auto transcooler $150 Auto valve body upgrade $300 Any decent tyres will do (it's a 4wd auto after all) Careful tuning $200 Total around $5K Hang on !!!!! That sounds almost like our Stagea. Cheers

Thanks for the link, the idea of the thread was to get the guys posting up their actual real world exeperiences all in one place. I don't know about anyone else but I have real problems with using calculated changes (one rim to another) to know whether or not the wheels will actually fit. An example, so it's 5mm in further, does that mean it will hit on the inner guard or not? Then there is the brake calliper clearance issues. Thats why I wanted to have a whole heap of real world results for guys to look up. cheers