Sydneykid

Much the same as the Ferrari F430 and the M3, if you lifted the throttle on the upchange it will be smoother. Consequently less damaging on the box. Basically this is doing exactly what the standard ECU does, exept with ignition instead of fuel:cheers:

Sorry, no to both questions:cheers:

So I take it you are happy :jump:

You are not mistaken:cheers:

I will be adding some more words over the next couple of days, so watch this space.... When you take the top cover off, this is what you should see when the crankshaft pulley is at TDC. Note the alignment of the dots. I have added the red dots in PhotoStudio so they stand out in the pictures. This is the exhaust camshaft pulley, note how the dot on the pulley lines up with the dot on the rear cover plate; This is the cheap harmonic balance puller I used, ~$25 from SupaCheap; The genuine Nissan cambelt has these markings on it, note the arrows indicating front and the dotted and solid lines that align with the dots on the camshaft pulleys and the dots on the rear cover. This makes it very easy to get the camshaft timing correct, which is very important, obviously. This is after the harmonic balancer was removed, showing how the puller is located; The HKS Pulley is on and its dot aligned wth the dot on the rear cover; Note the position of the CAS spigot in the camshaft, with the flat facing up. This makes it easy to align the CAS when refitting it. I set the exhaust camshaft timing at zero, I will adjust it on the dyno the week after next. Note the dots on the crankshaft cambelt pulley aligned with the one on the oil pump cover. This indicates TDC, which is usefull when you have the harmonic balancer off; I have added the yelllow dots in PhotoStudio, so they stand out in the pictures. The finished product, Note how the CAS is slightly rotated clockwise from its original position. I adjusted it using the timing light to ensure that the ignition timing was back at its original 15 degrees advanced. This change in orientation occurs because the new cambelt is shorter than the old one, it had obviously stretched a little over its 105,000 k life. Don't forget to fill in the cambelt changed sticker and whack it on the top cover so you know when it needs changing next. The tools used in the this job were; 5mm allen key socket 10/11/12/14/27mm sockets 10/12/14/17/19mm rachet ring spanners 3/8" socket drive with short & long extensions 1/4" socket drive with short & long extensions 1/2" tension wrench 1/2" rattle gun (essential for removing the harmonic balancer in an auto, maybe you could get away with using the 1/2" tension wrench in an manual) Several flat and Philips screw drivers Harmonic balancer puller (essential, don't even think about trying it without one) Timing light (essential, don't even think about trying it without one) oil catch tray rags Things to remember; Buy some coolant, as you will loose most of it when you remove the radiator Buy some auto trans fluid, as you will loose some when you disconnect the cooler hoses from the radiator Check the condition of the waterpump, make sure it spins freely and has no sign of leaks from the front seal. At the same time check the tensioner and idler pulleys, they should spin freely with no tight spots or noise. Bleed the air out of the engine, while filling up the radiator, this is the fitting on the inlet manifold to enable that; Hope that helps someone else do there own adjustable camshaft pulley upgrade or cambelt service. cheers

Talk to you at Oran Park

We used to use Clevites but they must have done an exclusive deal with some Jap Tuning House, so we now use ACL Race Series, great results so far. We only use ARP studs, never had a problem with an ARP product.

When, that's a very good question; We have a race meeting this weelend at Philip Island, then one next weekend at Oran Park. I finished doing the cambelt change and adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley fittment on the Stagea during the week. For those interested, the how to guide, with pictures, will be finished on the Stagea forum on Monday. I hope to have the 3.25" exhaust fitted during next week. I will pick up the new Magic cat during next week as well. I have already PM'd Abflug and indicated the week after next as a target. I will want to get a base line emmisions for the Stagea first, using the compliance cat. With regards to the R32GTST tests, I had read the results previously, but I was extemely sceptical. The quoted RB20DET output is ~165 kw at the engine, so how it makes 148rwkw standard is beyond my comprephension. We have dyno'd at least 15 and they never make much more than 115 rwkw when standard and 125 rwkw with an exhaust only. Excuse me for it, but I simply ignored the results on that basis alone. Re cat prices, the reality of the world today is I can order a Catco product from any one of the 50+ suppliers in the US at those prices and have it delivered to me in a few days. There is no import duty from the US any more, good on you Johnny Free Trade Agreement, so I only have postage to worry about. It is very unlikely to get caught for GST, it is under $US100 after all. If it does get caught, it's only 10% anyway. Don't get me wrong, I didn't quote the US prices to indicate a rip off in Australia. I did it to show how much the catalytic coating really costs, there were a few posts indicating that coating was expensive. When the truth is, it simply isn't, $US10 would cover it easily. Enough for now, it's been a long day:cheers:

Hi Ben, each mark on the crank pulley is 5 degrees.

Hi Peter, there is quite a long thread on VVT, how it works and the RPM's it functions at, do a search. Even using Datalogit there is no provision for changing the VVT settings. As for plugs, that's a very often discussed item, do search for detailed discussion on the various choices. Personally I use NGK BCPR6ES-8.

Plus if you are right, I will run it up on our 4wd dyno with the Catco and publish the power gains over the standard compliance cat. I will even write and submit an article to HPI and Zoom for them to publish. I can't guarantee that they will publish it of course:cheers:

I missed this post :chairshot The JD is gooooooooone. :alcoholic

Try the US web sites, 1J's and 2J's are very popular there.

Roy has basically said it, my 20 cents worth. I believe 5 degree of negative camber is far too much, expecially for a GTR with 730 lbs /inch front springs and a 24mm front bar. Add that to 9 degrees of caster and on a 20 degree steering angle turn you have 14 degrees. It simply shouldn't roll enough with those spring and bar rates to need that much angle. Some questions; A. How did you get 9 degrees of caster on the front, the inner mount of the lower control arm hits on the sub frame at 5. The drive shaft angle must be huge. B. How high is it? If under 350 mm (centre of wheel to guard) then have you corrected the bump steer? C. Have you cheked the corner weights? D. Have you checked the tyre temperatures? E. Does it still have HICAS? F. What front diff? Hopefully standard. G. What rear diff? Hopefully 1.5 way. H. Confirm the stabiliser bar diameters? Should be 24 mm front and 24 mm rear. What I would do; 1. Put the standard front stabiliser bar back on, if you don't have it, then set the front adjustable bar on full soft 2. Set the rear adjustable bar at full hard 3. Back the front shocks off to full soft 4. Set the rear shocks on full hard 5. Try it 6. If it still understeers, then swap the front springs to the rear That will quickly tell you if it is a spring, shock and bar tuning problem. Alignment needs to be checked with a pyrometer, do 3 to 5 hard laps, come in fast and measure the tyres temps (outside, middle and inside). That will tell you if you are using the whole width of the tyre ie; its contact patch. You then tune the tyre pressures and camber to get even tyre temps across the tread face. If you can spare the time, pop out to Oran Park next weekend (Sat or Sun) for Round 3 of the NSW State Championship and I will get the driver of the Improved Production GTR to have a chat to you about how he drives one. There are some tricks. PM me for contact details. Hope that helps:cheers:

Haven't tried a Skyline with Cusco's, have tried a Honda with Cuscos though, it was simply terrible.

Mine didn't, I think the 260RS's did though. PS; my Stagea didn't even have a boost gauge.

Ah now there's an offer........thanks abflug OK BATMBL time for a put up or shut up test (my favourite). I will buy another brand new Magic cat and put it on the Stagea, if it passes you pay for it. If it doesn't pass, I will buy two of your Catcos. Are we on? :Pimp2: