Sydneykid

Nope, that's what copper NGK's cost. Copper is a much better conductor of electricity than iridium or platinum, and I want the best spark possible. I change my own spark plugs, so I don't care that iridium or platinum plugs last longer. They are only used so the vehicle manufacturers can have longer service intervals. I change my plugs regularly and at ~$20 a set it's no big deal.

Mine has very audible turbo whine:cheers:

What I would do.... First job, clean the AFM's, I use brake cleaner as it leaves no residue. Then recheck the voltages. Once you have consistent readings stick it on the dyno, connect all the dyno sensors (inc knock) and do a power run. Then have a good look through the graphs, particularly boost, knock and A/F ratios. Garage Saurus are known for agresssive tuning and they use 100 octane fuel. So it is important to make sure the tune will handle 98. Flat spots and compressor surge are all tuning signs. Don't fark about, if it is lean and advanced you will kill it very quickly.

Strangely I have never actually weighed a GTR cooler, but they weigh heaps more than 4kgs, more like 24 kgs. Weight is important, intercoolers are heat sinks after all, and the more weight they have the more heat they can absorb and spread over the greater mass. Obviously the heavier they are, the longer time they take to cool down (all other things being equal).

I have seen 2 different R33 GTST S2 turbos, one was made by Garrett (Air Research) and the other by Hitachi. All of the R34GTT turbos I have seen were made by Hitachi. All of the R33 GTST S1 and R32GTST turbos I have seen were made by Garrett.

Hi SLK-GTR, Whiteline pineaples are supplementary, they don't replace the standard bushes. Things to check; 1. How low is it? Under 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is too low and the drive shaft angles torque the diff and the sub frame. 2. Tailshaft alignment and balance 3. Rear and centre tailshaft bearing and carrier 4. Inner CV's 5. Driveshaft alignment and balance 6. Rear wheel bearings 7. Does it axle tramp? Time for some decent shocks? 8. Rear subframe alignment, worn bushes or accident damage 9. Diff centre alignment, pinion preload and bearings After that it gets a bit more obscure and unlikely.

Hi SLK-GTR, Whiteline pineaples are supplementary, they don't replace the standard bushes. Things to check; 1. How low is it? Under 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is too low and the drive shaft angles torque the diff and the sub frame. 2. Tailshaft alignment and balance 3. Rear and centre tailshaft bearing and carrier 4. Inner CV's 5. Driveshaft alignment and balance 6. Rear wheel bearings 7. Does it axle tramp? Time for some decent shocks? 8. Rear subframe alignment, worn bushes or accident damage 9. Diff centre alignment, bearings and pinion preload After that it gets a bit more obscure and unlikely.

We use 4.3 to 1 ratio diffs. Jaycar have an electronics kit for speedo correction. We use the GTST speedo gears (they have 4.3 to 1 diff ratio) in the gearbox and the speedo drive.

Yep, same as Bilsteins, just move the circlip up and down to get the height you want. There are pictures on the Stagea Suspension thread.

Yours haven't worn out yet, be patient:cheers:

Why? A steering rack is a steering rack, manual or power steering there is no difference in the rack itself. The only change would be the steering ratio, manual racks have slower ratios to lighten up the steering effort. But I wouldn't think you would want slower response to steering inputs in a race car.

Hi Chris, sorry for the delay in responding, race meetings back to back are killing me. Nisan designed the suspension geometry to work through a range of movement, when the static height is too low there are a number of problems; 1. There is not sufficient suspension travel to absorb bumps, so you get damage, cracked suspension mounting points, rapidly wearing bushes, broken windscreens etc 2. The dynamic suspension geometry goes out of its design parameters. You can set the static geometry (camber, caster, toe) so it is OK. But as soon as you compress or extend the suspension those settings change. Nissan designed in changes in geometry by its selection of mounting points for the suspension arms, an example being camber change. As you compress the suspension you get slightly more negative camber. So as you go around tighter corners the car leans more (compresses the suspension) and the extra negative camber helps the car maintain a good tyre contact patch. When you lower it too much, the suspension starts to go posiitive camber instead of negative, and you loose a lot of tyre contact patch. 3. You loose power, the drive shafts are not designed to operate at that angle and the CV's soak up more power. They also wear out much faster. I can give you plenty more examples, front and rear toe change bump steer, steering axis inclination, loss of anti dive and anti squat etc etc. We spend a lot of time checking suspension geometry to determine ideal settings on Production and Improved Production race cars. There are optimum heights for all cars, where if you go below that, you end up with basket case of problems. The reality is low is slow for a whole lot of reasons.

Hi guys, the hissing noise is usually a sign of a damaged top seal on the shock. As the shock is compressed, instead of the air compressing in the chamber it escapes out through the seal. This is not a goood thing. The air pressure (usually 100% nitrogen) is there to remove the bubbles that form in the hydraulic oil. The bubbles flow through the valves with out restriction and consequently don't provide anywhere near as much dampening as the oil. This also makes the valves knock as they get oil/air/oil. The other common cause of knocking is worn spherical joints on the tops. Sphericals are not designed for road car use and consequently wear out very quickly and need replacing. Hissing and knocking, sound familiar?

$3.00 each, max:cheers:

If you are ciiruit racing then you will need the power steering. The amount of caster you need to run makes the steering very heavy especially with decent racing tyres (slicks or "R" type). We also run a power steering cooler as the fluid gets hot after a 20 minute race. If you are drag racing, then ditch the power steering, saves weight and power loss. Stick some bolts in the holes in the rack where the pipes are removed, keeps the dirt out. Makes no difference to the rack, just heavy steering. But you are only driving in a straight line, so it doesn't matter.

When you fix the rear you will realise how bad the front realy is:cheers:

What sort of hi flow? There are hi hi flows and low hi flows. I have a GCG Ball Bearing Hi Flow that flows enough air for 265rwkw on an RB25DET at 1.4 bar with Tomei Poncams, Std R33GTR intercooler, split dump, 4" cat, 3.25" exhaust, Nismo injectors, Std R33GTR fuel pump, Power FC and Z32 AFM. It has more power EVERWHERE than when it was standard. I have not been able to get within 30 rwkw of that with a 2530, but it might make a little more down low, not much I suspect.

Take the springs out of the rear and put them in the front. Sell the front springs to some poor unsuspecting soul. Use the mone to buy some rear spings with a reasonable spring rate, around 200 to 250 lbs per inch would be my suggestion. Do a search you will find plenty of info on Teins:cheers:

It has an "S" bend, so a bit of "warming" will fix it, very simple .

Same as R34GTT, so pleeeeeeenty:cheers:

Been jacking the car up with the trolley jack under the diff?

Shop around, should be about half that. Even less if you fit them yourself:cheers:

Gear change point depends on the average power over the range used, not the max at one rpm point. On the upchange from first to second the engine drops 3,000 rpm. Say your engine looses 15 kw from 7,600 rpm to 8,200 rpm, and it looses 25 rwkw from 5,200 rpm to 4,600 rpm, Then you have higher average power changing at 8,200 rpm. Your dyno graph tells you where you should be changing gears.

170 kw versus 206 kw:cheers:

I tested the solenoid unplugged confusing ECU theory, it makes no difference. Which is logical as there are only 2 wires to the solenoid, one is earth and the other has 0 or 12 volts depending on high or low boost from the ECU. No signal (such as "I'm not connected") is possible. My first guess remains plugs. Second guess would be wiring disturbed, eg; check the AFM plug, they are a bugger, look OK but if not clicked in place cause issues. Dirt on the hot wire from the work around the AFM, maybe? What else is around the working area, leaking intercooler pipework, perhaps? I never rely on "it was working yesterday, so it must be OK today" logic. An example, I put a new set of plugs in one day 2 months ago (not NGK) and the car ran fine. Drove it from the machine shop to the workshop (about 10 ks') still fine. Drove it onto the dyno, tied it down and it started to miss like a bustard. Pulled the plugs out and one had a loose electrode, you could turn it with your fingers. This was a $40 Bosch German spark plug. It was working 5 minutes ago, but it wasn't OK now.