matlowth

Lube - You have email! Re: the car, that blows goats... When did this start to happen? Well, it'll be back on the road soon, so whenever!

Exactly Cool - that'd be my only concern with it then, have you invested in some aftermarket knock detection? That run was done in 4th gear, and nahh - standard regulator, bosch fuel pump and some 550cc injectors. Intake system is a apexi pod, z32 afm, and a blitz 4" front mount. There's heaps of restrictions all over the place with my current setup, and it's still got the standard cross over intake stuff... matt

As you said, you've gotta remember is that an ECU is really only as good as the guy tuning it. I've never used a Microtech ecum, but I'm sure with a good tune, they're still a very capable ECU... Out of interest, does it have the ability to detect knock? And what's the cold start like? I'm running a PowerFC, and to be honest, I don't know any good reason why people say they're only good for a car with mild mods. I got told by about 5 people that for the power I want, the only ecu that'd do it would be Autronic or MoTeC. Only ecu I'd take over this is the MoTeC, and that's only for the MAP+TPS ability and the extra data logging facilities. I've got a 3ltr motor, big cams, T66, bigger injectors, etc etc etc, and i still can get 400km+ to a tank if I take it easy... Powerfc handles all these mods flawlessly. I've attached my dyno to this so you can see that there's not one flat spot, the torque dropping off was just the turbo dropping off boost top end (avcr not set up). Oh, and that's only running 16psi. BTW - I'm in Melbourne matt

Lube, you checked the forums dude? We changed our meet date back... Have you got your water temp sender fixed up? I can't beleive the dodgy stuff that place did! matt

A mate had one of them on his 180sx, and was quite impressed with the results... Costs a fair bit more to do tho... matt

I'm surprised you'd put something like that on your car... They sound cool as tho matt

Lube, Come down to one of our meets and I'll show ya matt

Oh - and as with what others have said... Stick some Castrol VMX-80 in as well... It's fairly cheap and makes a big difference to your shift. matt

Akira - FYI - The GTS25-t gearset is identical (internally) to the GTR. Obviously the transfer case etc etc aren't there, but strength wise, they're the same. Double synchro's on 1st->3rd, and only singles on 4th and 5th... 4th seems the most common to go. You've either got to be a really bad driver (who crunches alot), or have a *****load of power (and wearing slicks) to break one of these suckers... matt

Matt, Just do what I do... Say somethings broken and needs to be fixed. My motor is broken... Oh - I'll put in a bigger one while I'm at it... Ahhh while I'm at it, a bigger turbo too matt

The standard RB25 afm will hit maximum voltage at around the 180-190rwkw limit. You can still tune a car, but it's a bit of guesswork, because the maps have to be fudged... The Z32 will give you a better end result, with a smoother power curve, and better mixtures. matt

You're joking right? matt

0-100 I haven't timed since I got the car back, but I don't think I'd be much quicker than about 4.7-4.8, purely due to the amount of power I can put down in 1st & 2nd. 3rd, 4th and 5th gear are where the car really shows its grunt. Re: the wing - Nahh, not as yet... Will do in the next couple of weeks I think. Laziness is a curse Cheers, matt

A stock manual should do about 6.2-6.5 with a good launch... Auto I'd imagine would be a good second slower. Basic performance upgrades (cooler, exhaust, ecu, boost) should get you down to near flat 5.0 seconds. Best I ever did with the stock turbo was about 5.2sec. matt

The car is actually a Zenitani car from memory... He bought it from them matt

Jay - A bit of useless information for you... That car is now in Australia. Actually, taht car is now in Melbourne! matt

No worries, if you do decide to go ahead, PM me if you'd like and I'll let you know a bit more about what to look out for etc etc. matt

I've got over 300rwkw in my 33 gts25t... And if you want that much power, I can guarantee you that you're not going to get out of it without doing internals... 550cc injectors are good for up to 330rwkw, so I would probably suggest them as your best (ie: cheapest) option... Scour the papers and wreckers for 2nd hand turbo kits (JMS etc)... You might just get lucky, I found a Trust TD07 full kit (ext gate, manifold, dump and turbo nice and cheap for my car... - Budget around 8-10k for a decent motor build drive in drive out... You can do it cheaper, but in the long run, it'll probably come back and bite you in the arse... Oh, and don't expect to see your car for about 3 months... - 2-8k for the turbo kit depending on whether you get one 2nd hand or new... - As with what ONARUN said, spend some money on suspension and brakes too... It's all fun and games to have a car which accelerates quickly (hey, mine'll spin the wheels all the way to 160) but unless it can stop and corner just as well, then it's dangerous. There's about 2k for suspension, and the same again for brakes... - You'll also need to factor in your ancillaries such as fuel pump, injectors, new clutch, z32 afm, cam gears, metal head gasket etc etc etc... These little bits and pieces can end up costing 4-6k as well. - Custom Plenum isn't really necessary... I'm running the stock one on my car without too many problems... You might, however, want to invest in a larger throttle body... - If your car is well built, and tuned well then there's no reason that it's not just as drivable as it is now. Don't listen to people who say big turbo's are laggy... They obviously haven't driven a properly set up car with one. My car starts to make boost as early as 3000rpm, and by 4000rpm I've got over 190rwkw. Which is more than what most of these guys have at redline. Your given the impression that it's laggy because there's so much additional power available. My car is more drivable now, than before I did the upgrade with my small VG30 high flow... It makes more power at any given rpm than my old setup. As you can see, the costs very quickly get up there... You call a place and get a quote on a motor build, double the quote. You'd be surprised how many little things pop up along the way (which initially seem insignificant, but when you add them up they start getting expensive). Not many people end up going this far with their car (Although they talk about doing it) because the costs are so high. For a reliable 300rwkw, that's what it's going to cost you. For 250rwkw, you might be able to get away without having to do the motor, which'll save you big $$$. matt

Go to this page: http://www.daikinclutch.com.au/ You can find a reseller off their site. matt

What meggala said.. Go the exedy diakan full faced heavy duty organic... I've been using mine for over a year with well in excess of 200rwkw (now over 300rwkw) and she's holding up fine. Got a mate who had one in his 200sx and with 220rwkw went to calder with slicks, and he destroyed his gearbox before the clutch would slip. Drives like a dream and is nice and light. if it works for me, it'll definitely work for you. matt

Over 2.0 bar matt

Jay, The car idles a bit lumpy (nothing too bad, just sounds like the car has a bit of a miss) - mainly due to the lack of vaccum at idle. This'd be fixable if the car wasn't running a MAF. Also because of this, the car's a bit difficult to start because the MAF has trouble getting a signal. I'm sure it can be tuned out tho. Other than that, the car is smooth as, and runs well right out to 7500rpm with no noticable drop off in power. matt

You're kidding yourself if you think platinums will last 100,000kms! I've gone through 2 sets since I've had my car, and i've only had it 2 years. If your car is like every other skyline out there and runs rich, you're not going to get any more than 20-30,000kms out of em before they start to lose their efficiency. For $2.50-$3 each for copper ngk's, I know what I'll be using. Not sure how that works out to be $30 bucks! My cars running 1.2-1.4 bar of boost, and I've had no problems with spark. matt

Not having reground cams myself, I can't really say what they cost. But unless you can get a regrind of a Jap cam (tomei, hks, nismo, etc etc), then you're really taking a risk as to whether the cam is going to be any good in your car. If they get the lift and/or duration wrong, it could completely stuff up the way your car runs. If you want to change your cams, just foot the bill for some decent jap ones. Or do what I did, and put gtr cams in your 25t. cheers, matt

R33 gts25-t 271rwkw @ 1.2bar @ VIC SAU dyno day - 6/7/02 matt