FIL

boost cut often feels like you've hit a brick wall... the motor loses revs really quickly, and it can shake the whole car up if your pushing hard.... as for the boost controller... it would be bleeding air off when you reach the stock boost level, as it needs to maintain a level below stock boost at the wastegate, but the boost that the controller (between manifold and wastegate) is seeing is still rising... so there will be air being released... it should be a reasonably quiet sound... but u might be able to notice it...

In fact.... pretty much anyone who's still trading must be doing more decent work than crap... Perths a small market, and bad news travels pretty quickly... Blow up a few motors and you get a bad rep...(deserved or not, cos not all failures are tuning failures, and not all mechanical failures the fault of the last workshop involved, but thats who cops the blame)

I'd go see Lumpy at C-Red... AJ (Speedworks) can tune pretty much anything with an ECU.... but Lumpy has more time on the Power FC's... thats all :-)

fuses don't blow immediately.... they heat up when the current passing through them increases past their rated range... when they heat up enough, they melt.... ecu's are a particularly sensitive bit of electronics.... so i guess they could go before a fuse... "My car got a flat battery once, and when its flat the car doesn't idle at all. If the battery is stuffed, get a new one..." Well said... call the RAC... i get bored of working on commodores and corolla's all day.... :-)

http://www.racecarnewmedia.com/hks/ have a look here http://www.racecarnewmedia.com/hks/e-meters05.htm http://www.racecarnewmedia.com/hks/e-meters04.htm I'm not sure if these are the same gauges you've got, they're a bit more recent than mine though.... so if anyone knows how to program teh boost gauge with black face, orange lighting, and 2 leds with 2 buttons... let me know

i've found diagrams and instructions for the newer stuff at hks europe....

yeah... i'll avoid mentioning the bad things i've heard about other shops/names of place i dn't like...

OS Giken triple, converted to twin, then rebuilt about a month before I got the car....

There's basically 2 shops in perth i'd trust my car with (when i'm not doing the work myself that is).... Speedworks (Ivan, AJ, Baz etc know a heck of alot about making Jap cars go fast, and have respect for the cars, which is very important) and C-Red (Roy and Jeff have a lot of Toyota experience, and Lumpy, Dally and Roy (again) have quite a bit of Nissan experience).... One of the other shops on that list decided to remove the Redline oil in my gearbox and replace it with a dodgy Shell oil... apparently they're the people to see if you've got a mk3 supra in perth, but they don't know the one thing every mk3 owner knows.... Redline oil works wonders in the Mk3 gearbox....

EDIT: ignore this.... got a server message saying it was too busy after the last post... so went back and hit post again.... looks like it wasnt too busy after all :-(

i'd also add http://www.mulsannescorner.com to that list... has a whole bunch of technical stuff about the Le Mans cars...

Unidens are pretty good... I've got one of their 5 watt handheld jobbies... keeps me happy... My old man has an icom 5 watt handheld with CTCSS and all.... that seems pretty good too.... Other than that, the most popular radio's on cruises and up at the track are the $100 Unidens everyones talking about here... They're pretty good if you're all in a bunch, but if you get separated, you might need to relay messages.... Now.. if you were really dodgy, you'd find an ex-commercial in car unit, with about 40 watts on tap... but that would be illegal....

same.... i'm running one of the black and orange gauges, with a warning light, and a recall/max boost function... it also seems to have a way to zero the boost level..... the recall/max boost bit is easy to figure out, but does anyone know how to set the warning level? or how to re-zero it? (atm, it thinks atmospheric pressue is 1.2 bar...)

you can jump start anything with the right gear.... i prefer to do it with a battery thats not connected to a car... (seeing as i sell em for a living, i usually have one lying around :-) ) cables with inbuilt surge protectors help also.... tho i beleive the major risk is actually to the donor car rather than the one being jumped.... what may have happened is that the ECU has reset... not sure if the 'line ECU's have this issue, but i have swapped batteries in a few daewoo's (the delco controlled ones (ie. camira engine)) and seen them refuse to idle until you run the car at about 3000 rpm for a couple of minutes, and the ECU remembers how to idle...

yeah.... thats the way i looked at it too.... burnouts had been rather small, nothing much more than on over enthusiatic launch basically...enuff to dry the tyres... i think part of the problem is that i know i could launch better if i slipped the clutch, but i refuse to do that because of the wear issues with metal on metal....

oh... and they chew up your tyres too :-) well, to begin with anyway... because you'll be trying not to slip it, and launching harder than normal...

i beleive the going rate for an OS Giken (like mine) is about $4k (twin plate), not including labour... and rebuilds are about a grand minimum.... (that can include labour, but prices on rebuilds vary wildly depending on what breaks, and how it's fixed) the OS is noisy when you're foot is on the clutch, but you get used to it... just sounds like a rally car clutch pucks are similarly unsubtle on launch, and do wear almost as easily as a twin plate will if you slip them (neither an OS or apuck will handle slipping well... pucks cos there no give in them, OS's because their a metallic surface, which heats up really quickly..) (disclaimer: i've only scraped the surface here, and even then, i've probly got some of it wrong... ) in the end... if oyu can afford it, i'd go the twin plate... the OS giken twin is apparently able to handle over 600hp without slipping, but they are very heavy... (OS's have a replutation for breaking: diffs, gearboxes, slave cylinders, and the rod between the slave and the clutch fork...)

hehe..... fair enuff :-) yeah, that was mine... i've taken it to the plex 3 times, including motorvation... done about 20 full noise passes, axle tramped almost every time, no matter how gently i launch... (u practically have to idle off the line to get traction)... at motorvation, did some small burnouts to try to get traction, and on the second launch of the motorkhana... big bang, and had to get towed back to the pits... thankfully, we got the diff out that night, confirmed that was the problem, and got a new one the next day... was able to drive home that evening...

i was told that the supra diff was unbreakable... that said, there's evidence of some heavy duty abuse on the sub frame (ie. rollbacks) and the way the diff let go is in keeping with that.. oh, and apparently the particular gears i broke, do break a bit... my car suffers badly from axle tramp at the plex, which is probably the worst thing you can do to a diff... and something I plan to address, along with replacing the subframe and beefing up the diff, before i make a serious return to kwinana....

if you've seen my other car (ie. FIL) it's not exactly rice mind you... it's still waiting for me to finish a gearbox swap.... now.. lets get our affiliations out.... WASCC, AFARCC, RB's, All4Wheels, Supra club of WA... I'm almost as much of a car club **** as XRW :-)

havent seen that one yet..... but i'll go try to track it down now :-)

MC, and test and tune type days at Collie and Wanneroo generally don't have instructors, but you can still learn a hell of a lot about your car if you are in a safer environment than the street.... you don't have cars coming the wrong way, people standing on the side of the road... and usually, the sand traps slow you up before you hit anything....

Ken! I'm surprised you havent asked the usual questions yet :-)

supra's are VERY heavy cars... my mk3 TT makes approx 265ps at the rears, but with traction issues and weight issues, thats still only good for 14.6 at the plex... (thats on stock boost, winding the boost up doesnt help that much)

I was 26 when I insured my JZA70 with RAC, declared value of approx 15k, 2 accidents and a couple of tickets in my history, 30%NCB.... I'm paying roughtly $1100 a year, and have about $950 excess due to my history....