FIL

psiko: i guess i'll just have to see how it goes... mind you, i've also taken over a metre of tubing out of the signal line from the manifold by mounting the solenoid on the intake manifold itself, instead of using a line run from about level with one strut tower, to the back of the bay, along the firewall and down to the other strut tower... I've also managed to remove about 6 inches from the lines to the wastegates and compressor housings, although those lines are still a lot longer than I'd like... and while I was at it, I mounted the solenoid unit how HKS intended it to be done, which may or may not be neccessary, but seeing as I was fiddling with it at the time.... I would have thought that as far as getting the ports right, having the diagram of the writing on the controller would be enough for that, and stating clearly in the instructions that the 3 ports connected to hoses "must be upwards" and the blanked off port "must be downwards" was more for some other reason....

i dont know if it really does, but the manual does specify that in the case of the EVC III, the solenoid unit should be mounted vertically with the 3 air lines poking out the top, the wiring loom out the bottom, and the writing the right way up on the side....

ultimate used to be about 3-4cpl more than regular when it first came out... it's up to about 6-7cpl more now... and it's brewed locally here too, down in Kwinana... Shell Premium is just as good for most turbo cars and costs about 3cpl more than regular atm....

i think mines a gain issue, it peaks about 0.2 bar higher than i want it, then drops back pretty quickly (but not quick enough to avoid hitting the boost cut) and sits perfectly steady where i set it at... aside from that issue, it's been perfect... i think it's either because the solenoid part has been mounted horizontally, and it should be mounted vertically, or it's a gain issue...

The more expensive ones don't "hold the wastegate".. they just bleed off all the boost until you get really close to the point you've set it at... ie. instead of having real boost = 5psi, modified boost = 5psi and real boost = 9psi, modified boost = 6.5psi until real boost = 12psi at which point the solenoid shuts off and shows the wastegate full boost causing it to open fully... the controller is bleeding off air even when you are making less than stock boost, so as to keep the wastegate fully closed by showing it 0psi until you hit say 11.5psi, at which point it raises it to almost stock levels, and then finally, lets go altogether.... (When you think about it, this "intelligent" system, can be responsible for boost spiking like Shaun and myself experience from time to time, and it may be that we really need to look at the settings in our controllers (in the case of the EVC III, the Offset settings affect how the controller shapes the boot curve that the wastegate see's)

dammit shaun... mine has started doing that too... my actuator isnt mounted the right way in the engine bay, so i'm hoping that fixing that will sort it out.. otherwise i just have to leave it set at about 0.8 bar so it bounces to 0.98 and then back to a sane level

I guess IT is in decline these days... cos I work for RAC fitting batteries...

Make sure they tie it down :-) Other than that... they seem ok...

rob... look in the fuse box in the engine bay, pull the one marked "ECU" (or similar... eg. Holden call it PCM for Powertrain control module) Keep fuse out for 30 seconds or more... and ECU should be reset (ie. what mark said.... :-)

if he had his way, we'd have a race track in every suburb... the sooner people interested in sponsoring motorsport stop giving him coin the better... it's not enough to get a track up, and he seems not that interested in really getting one running anyway... and what he does get is used up by a few company cars...

the bel xr850 even comes with 2 sets of wires, one coiled and one straight, so you can hardwire one of them in, and use the other with the cigarette lighter plug if you have a couple of cars.... (mine moves between 3 cars... and spends it's life on the end of the cig lighter plug and coiled wire..)

just giving back whats been handed out from the heartland over the years... :-) yeah, but how many diffs/trannies have you been through? and yeah, i know... i've blown a diff in the supra, but after all, it's 11 years old :-)

It's just a pity it's taken holden until now to come up with something that equals what Toyota and Nissan were doing in Japan 10 years ago... The current Monaro's specs read pretty close to those of the 1991 Twin turbo supra Limited.... well, except the supra also has a targa top available... and a twin turbo 2.5L motor that performs as well as the tweaked, oil burning, rattly on startup 350 that holden elected to use...

i've got a few mates who've had rather bad experiences with regards to wear rates.... it probably depends a lot on how hard you drive them... btw, the endless pads i'm looking at are not much more than the EBC's

for a fast car, the bendix metallic pads are the low end... as are the Lucas pads I've been using... I don't know whether EBC should really be part of the equation... Adrian seems to be reasonably happy with them, but I've heard some bad things about their wear rate and performance...

i've got some Lucas Metallic pads in the supra, cost me about $50 for the fronts from Perth Brake Parts, they delivered them for free, and I fitted em myself... I'm thinking of getting some Endless from Japan via Speedworks next time I'm up for some front pads tho... The Lucas pads do leave quite a bit of dust on the wheels, however, they stop pretty well...

if it's the glass of the light itself, this happens with mk4 supras a lot, and there are places where you can get the light dissasembled and polised to remove the discolouration.... but i don't know who they are, cos it's not a problem on the mk3 :-)

yeah, the foaming armourall is the one I use, never had a problem with it... except if you get some on the rims and havent cleaned them yet, cos it partly cleans them and leaves a bit of a streak... but if the last thing you do when you clean your car is the tyres, then it's not a problem.... Like Psiko said, it's not a black coat, it's a tyre cleaner....

I was gonna suggest u best let Lumpy drive Big Trev.... Are you guys gonna come and play at Wanneroo when you've got a decent set of gears in there?

Which insurers give discounts for club (CAMS or otherwise)members? I know Shannons do, but I also know they won't even talk to me until i turn 30....

Paul: R32's have a recirc bov, but it's far from quiet... it recirc's just a little too close to the filter... so it makes just as much noise as an externally venting bov....

do your plugs up until they seat, then give them about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn....

i've got a TT Mk3 supra, with the "Limited" spec interior, leather everywhere and digital dash, electric drivers seat... goes pretty well, not quite as good as a TT mk4 (yet), but i reckon it looks a hell of a lot better, both inside and out... and while there are some locally delivered ones available, the Mk3 supras are not as tainted by their atmo cousins as the Mk4's are... :-)

oh... mag cleaning... mine are painted, so i just use the left over meguires soft wash most of the time :-)

Not sure where's the best place to get it.... i think (good automotive) paint shops... My old man picked this stuff up when he bought his Hilux, and has hardly used it.... http://www.ssindustries.com.au/consumables.htm Looks like the above URL might give you an idea on where to get it....