davehoos

early skylines use an oil temp switch to cancel the overdrive[no overdrive no lockup]. i think it an on-off idea.at around 40cel. later full electronic boxes have a fluid temp sencor [variable] and a overheat fluid switch,about 140-150 cel.. the engine in mine is normally warms ok but the radiator takes a while to hold the heat.If i was i city traffic it might be a lot quicker.

this is an old argument.most wear is one when cold.also the fuel washing the bores ect.sitting with cold engine running must be worse than driving easy. mine is very slow to warm in winter[well above 0cel],I often have the radiator air flow partialy blocked off.so I can understand the problems in cold areas.10-15 km before overdrive is allowed to shift. I looked at block warmers and pumps,if any one knows of a good one well under AU$400 I like to know about it. Thought about a jug element and a pump [off merc,bmw,vw or vectra]. add saftey switches so one dont fry.

3 yrs ago i was told to expect 60 days and it arrived in the mail less than 17 days.

yes its a cd.i have only one.of a set of 6. my friend has told me that the self load ect. maybe its like the dvd and needs the inital aplication. dont have a dvd yet might have to.

just recieved a fast nissan CD.japanese nissan parts books. How do you get them to work.my japanese friend thought you just put in the computor and it auto loads. no files have extensions. ??????????????????????

it is 3.889 divide the 2 numbers and it goes on a bit. if you round that off it 3.89 again thats 3.9 again thats 4. most use the 3.89 so no to confuse with holden or banjo 3.9. to use in a holden,count the axle splines first. they are all different. r31 skylines use 4 pinion diffs.import and local. Sohc imports have 4.11 2 pinion diffs suprise so does a pintara. not all turbos have lsd.its a factory option. all silo have lsd. import 4 cy use a banjo diff the same as 5 link laurels.

P/s when i imported the passage it had to be older than 15yrs. I was told that you have to have a car 2yrs before they give a bit when transfering from states. a work mate got a WA regoed familia [no complience]and they said no here in NSW untill they read the act over the phone on cross state transferes.

I havent read the complete thread.Im in NSW. My understanding ids that[with major buisness group involvement] the shonkies have been pushed out of low volume schemes and into the enthusiest schemes. Im an enthusiest so i should be able to import and register my car.No the scheme is to keep small car sales yard in buisness. My mate works for an engineer that is setting up Raws workshop.Its B/S.clients of theirs are buying 1989 models 100 at a time for storage. I dont know why but 1988 models are of no interest. I have R31 and R32 chasis number by month http://www.geocities.com/davehoos/TWO.html http://www.geocities.com/davehoos/cnor31.html as it is time consuming to type this i also have R31 R32 R33 N14 C32 and soon parts books on CD with details,and some early manuals .parts book 910 jap,european.T12 T72 european odd and sods.

the idea of climate control is you leave it turned on. when not in use it will leakout.compressor seals ect. 6 months.I would say you got a leaking bit,have a good look for oil stain on pipes and conections.oil on the front hub of compressor will indicate shaft seal. its normal to get small leaks on the cold side of a/c.as they are cold/wet most of the time corrosion and cracks are comon. ive replace evaporators TX valves and compressors on R33. leaks on the high pressure sise are normally works today stuffed tommorrow.

R12 is over $100 a kg [about the amount you need] R134A is around $10-25 KG and good oil is up to $40.[need 150/200 ml. WHY BOTHER with blend gas or hydrocarbon.. panel shops and electricians use all sorts of fad gasses.these still have R12 in them.SP43F is from memory flavour of the month.This is very good in houshold goods im told. the problem is the oil.ROCK OIL is the common type and aunty ESTER. VERY GOOD IN FRIDGES. if they were good in cars then the factory would use them.

retro fit is not part of complience. R12 is not illegal to use.it is for sale.and can be used.WHY BOTHER.i havnt seen a can that needed it.if the pressurse were funny/high it mostlikly needed a newTX valves and replacments are R134A set. to retro fit you replace the reciever dryer[filter] and the new ones are R134A compatible.service valves adaptors[not needed]. OIL[important] if you use other oils or drop in gasses these can effect hoses and orings and worse clean out the scum on the inside the pipes from the old gass and cheep oil. if you use PAG type oil you dont.its a good idea to replace oring anyway as high pressure tend to melt them.

R134A and most compressors use pag 2 oil.[blue] vane type not piston type.

common problem. due to the climate control system.It has a brain??? If any sencors fail the air tends to go to extremes full hot/cold. also if the it thinks the air conditioning has frozen,temp before and after evaporator.. the heat is controled by a blend door.the door has a electric servo motor on it.the door also operates a tap.so if the tap was full on the door would still close and you only get warm air,not 58 cel+. the climate control works by heating the car then cooling it of.so if the cabin temp sencor thinks its cold,it just supper heats the car..

something would have been disturbed around the control area. the venturi near the clutch pedal draws air from the sencor in the dash to test you can blow through the pipe slowly.also put a rag over the light sencor. other problems ive had with my passage [same as later mosels]is the hot water sencor reading cold[on the wrong pipe] so the blend door/heater tap motor shuts off to wait for the engine to heat up.a crook thermostate will do this to.to check the door motor will move a little on start up to let a little water through.then close. my passage R31 climate control freezes up regular to stop this R32 on have a sensor before the evaporator to compare before and after.if these are faulty or dirty it wil go into defrost and go full heat no A/C.

most of the time you have to wash the evaporator coil.got a japanese product called crystal waters. in the old days of rotting heater cores we used nil-odour.small eyedropper full in the fan motor. tried sprays,some work,had one with a long tube and expanding type foam.glen twenty is probly best. silly people often let it fill with leaves.and the things grow in there big time.

to complience it must be roadworthy. this means brakepads upto adr spec that will last a few months. so is tune as they are compliencing the engine emissions.

if the compressor has siezed then it has other problems,as well as the metal now in the system.most of the ones i see it is the pulley bearing has over heated and burnt the front of the compressor. it will need a dryer[filter] and tx valve[expansion valve] early rb20det use the compressor of a 2.4 pintara.these have the hoses on topf/r. the later types are at the rear and are harder to find. simply put a filter PAG OIL and R134a.at worst an R12 setup will run 10-20 psi higher pressure on the low side.the tx valve will fix that.