T04GTR

they are not to bad. pretty grippy. but nothing like the nismo tripple.

japaneese seals? lol. just like my old k sport coil overs with "japanese made" damper in it. hahah only had to replace 3 rears in 6 months. they seem to be ok performing. just like a wheel really. whether it be a cast piece of crap or a nice jap forging. they both do the same thing...

yeah. lower is not always better. but lucky itsa skyline cos everything is avalable as a "bolt on" part. ie if a arm f**ks out. put an adjustable one in. works out cheaper cos no labour to r and r the bushes. as far as ball joints go. if its the front lower ones. nissan is the only option. usually the front hub/knuckle/kingpin thing comes loose and isa mistaken for a ball joint. theres a 22 or 7/8 nut that you need to tighten. its located at the base of the upright. (the bit that turnes)

cool. the adjustable ones are shit. the liniar ones are the go. for that money its pretty good. mine need a rebuild but

everywhere that moves. in and outside of the gearbox

just get a piece of crap ceramic one from a reputable brake shop:) about 450 ish

yeah if its not the rattely clutch it wares out quick. r3c is my recomendation. pretty cheap atm. the nismo replacment plates are around 400 each. but it will need to be all machined etc etc or it will ware out twice as fast. i used to have one too. gmax2 thats why its sitting in my garage rusting cos its too fragile and costly to repare.

hrmm cool thread!! il have to borrow my sisters camera

same. they are the same gearbox.

still wont help. anything apart from the standard flywheel will do it. ive tried both.

yeah. use genuine injector base seals. probable find the new injectors are a little shorter. and thius is why they have air leaks.

untill you set it up PROPERLY its still gonna drop off. have you try doing what is sugested ealier?

thats my point.

oh. anyone know where i can get m and w ferritte coils from?

its because they are a double ended coil. lol. not an issue. thats how they are meant to run. 1-6 2-5 3-4

itrs the other way around dude. your wastegate isnt flowing enough. perhaps try putting the standard dump pipe back on. that will solve it.

yeah it just clicks in.

v band is much better. easier to line up.

yeah same as a vl and r31 etc etc. a360 crossreferance. kn033-2032 i think. pretty common. so shouldnt be a problem finding one.

OWWWW didnt know orc made carbon ones. pics?

they require warm ups yto work propperly. aparently they slip when cold.

both cv joints. and replacing the front uni with a servicable one. cheaper to buy a new one. uas does them in one piece but uses your old joints.

under race condition and undersized rotors/calipers. ie:99% of track day cars. 900 degrees is not uncommon. the v8 utes hit around 900+ well enough to make cp5555 6 pot calipers with ds3000 catch well and truly on fire after 4 laps of qr. and also melt the alloy pistons in them. dba 5000 series 330x28 last 2 rounds before they are cracked all the way though

ok.. try setting the boost controler to 4 pound higher. iff it still drops off the same amouint, then its the boost controler setting. also adjust the gain to max, then adjust the boost setting. always the gain has to be max to stop the boost dropping off.

ok. you need to unsrew your cat converter heat sensor and scre in a suitible fitting to mesure actual back pressure. also is it an apexi boost controler? cos they do that, it is electronic? if its a bleed valve then thats normal. and all the vac lines to come from the inlet manifold or it will do that to.