satanic

About 30 minutes with the correct tools - just gets a bit messy as you'll no doubt get trans fluid all over yourself 30 minutes if the approximate time for mounting in the stock location; not relocating it to another place. No need to bring it to a specialist workshop; just bring it to a normal one. You'd also be advised (as one very wise person did to me before) to get a Oil Temp Gauge for the A/T; especially if you're going to track the car. You'd also be advised to fit the sender when you are putting this cooler in. From memory; the DC kit comes with everything you'll need - you will need the following extras: 1) side cutters, 2) screw drivers, 3) socket set, 4) zip ties, line clamp tool x 2 Cheers Stan

The most reccomended one is the Davies Craig 19 Row cooler for about $130 available from Autobarn, AutoOne, Repco etc etc. It's about the size of an A4 sheet of paper and more than does the job.

Looking very very schmick guys! Kinda makes me itch to go out and buy some paint! How much of a hassle was it to get the cover off the A/C unit?

Hi all, I've done a search and I've consulted the engine manual (for all RB motors); and I may not be reading it correctly but is there a list / indication anywhere of the exact bolt sizes that are used throughout the RB motors? I know there is a list at the beggining with all the torque settings etc; but is there a list somewhere which states exactly what is required when putting together a motor? I'm planning on just going to an engineering place and getting say 100 units of each that is required. One thing I have noticed is that beside each bolt diagram in the manual that there is the torque setting followed by a number in brackets (this is not for all bolts though) so if this is an indication / code that may be of some help. Thanks in advance. Stan

I saw a few of you guys out there last night - some really good runs! Funny the amount of Skylines that didn't do any burnouts though Did any of you guys see that Purple VL? OMFG!!!

Update; all the crank collars have been paid for and will be sent out (to me) by the end of the week; I'll ship them all off as soon as they arrive. FYI Matt from NZ is an awesome guy to deal with; honest and to the point - so if you need anything from NZ; go through him

Just call up BD4s and ask if they have any second hand harnesses - problem solved

No it won't...

There's a company in the USA which has done this and is currently selling the complete kit - think it's called R14? http://www.full-race.com/r14/ That is for a S14 but I can't imagine it being too dis-similar.

So the plugs need to be changed / adapted with the SARDs? I'd go for the camshafts - 300rwkw + high flowed turbos will be more than enough to make use of the cams (I'm only talking about Poncams here 260 degree 9.15mm lift). Fuel pump; Tomei and Nismo take 20minutes to install... Bosch pumps take more because 1) there is no bracket; 2) you have to locate a good place for fuel pickup that will also reach the bottom 3) you need to do new wiring (possibly even the constant voltage trick). For the extra $200 I would get a pump that is completely drop in with nothing to worry about. FPR is not required; agreed. Nonetheless - not a bad thing to have if you want to push out that little bit extra or set a base pressure to go by - I know of a few tuners who do this. I'd be looking at a catch can system as well - quite a few GTRs with 300rwkw start to experience oil problems (especially those that see a lot of track time).

1) SARDs are "generally" OK being a drop in injector that re-uses the old plugs 2) Camshafts? Might as well get the Tomei Poncam + Gear package if you got $5k to play with 3) Nismo / Tomei fuel pump will kick Bosch ass anyday 4) Nismo FPR (straight bolt on to the factory fuel rail)

I called for Matt yesterday afternoon but he was off sick; have left a message for a call-back today and it should be all good!

You'd be pretty soft too if someone took away your manhood (in my cat's case; womanhood)

whats the best price for the SR20 injectors?

Since you're leaving - time to throw one of these parties... only one rule at this party - the bins / toilets are "over the fence" I've been at the same place for close to 20 years now; and have generally had a good set of neighbours to deal with except for the following: 1) Set of bogan kids thinking it's cool to spray paint racial abuse on my driveway (speaking to parents and threatening to press charges got that sorted) 2) Neighbour thinking it's ok to park us in 24/7 (sorted by going out at random hours of the night where he'd have to get up and move his car) 3) Neighbour's cats attacking my cat (sorted when their cat died) 4) Neighbour complaining about me washing my car (sorted when I complained about the "funky" smells coming from his house on Sat nights)

sky30; status updated... I will call Matt sometime today and ask if he can do the cheaper price for the 4 sets already paid for... this will move things along faster.

mechanic"S" matey

And you would know this how?

This is interesting: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=164193&hl=

Is the fridge for sale? $10

Video Demonstration:

1) Get some cams; it'll bring the boost on earlier... or get some cam gears... with my Slide turbo I was making 1bar by 4k RPM so laggy? NO! 2) My turbo sounds like a jet-engine; I would double check all your fittings... want proof? 3) Of course the lines will have to be bent; you're no longer fitting a R33 turbo. Didn't you order the biggest RB25 highflow you could get from Slide? From memory of installing mine, the centres are different. 4) Rotating the housings? I'm not sure if Aaron still does this but I was given CLEAR instructions to tighten the bolts on the comp cover when i got the turbo as he had deliberately left them a bit loose to allow for installation "play". We never had to move it; just tightened it.

Adriano; status updated!

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