Freebaggin

C'mon guys, lighten up. To me, Skylines, Supras, 180SX/200SX, WRXs, Silvias (turbo versions of all listed cars that is) are simply the best value performance cars, best potential for upgrading and most fun package on the road you can buy, it's as simple as that, nothing to do with any "import scene" wank. Aussie cars are simply too heavy and Porsche/Ferrari/Lambo too exxy. So this whole toss about the Import Scene is just secondary flog and in my opinion anyone who gets into the whole Jap perf car wanky "culture" bit, Jap performance parts for-the-sake-of-it and stickers and shit is not serious about performance cars and genuine modifications. So Steve, this thread is about this Signal bloke who is simply a well known engine tuner from Japan and it will be great to see him come to Adel and show us what he can do with an engine tune. How has is degenerated into scene stuff? :flower:

For what it's worth, here is my prediction of the incremental increase in power when I add on the Tomei PONCAMS and nicer tubular exhaust manifold. More mid-range from cams. More top-end from exh manifold. What do ya think?

Good stuff SK, wierd than all have power drop off at high RPM (peak power below 6000rpm) except Grepin but then again, Steve's threshhold is alot higher with ~300rwkW, so a v.good result really. Don't want to give excuses but I forgot I had my boost controller safety set a tad low (didn't realise until after!) and when 100% throttle from 2000rpm, when turbo cut in the thing was spiking back to 0.7bar from 1.2bar so the runs were done with easy ramp up. Previous dyno runs done at on same dyno at 1.2b, the boost curve is a tad better with a bit more power from 3500rpm. I'll redo from previous run at 1.2bar: RPM--------KPH---Steve (1.4b?)-What(1.35b)-Grepin(1.3b)-Free(1.2b) 6,667------180--------275--------265--------270--------255 5,926------160--------295--------280--------265--------265 5,185------140--------290--------265--------240--------236 4,444------120--------255--------230--------210--------216 3,704------100--------115--------150--------165--------126 Average---------------246--------238---------230-------220 Well, not much difference really, however with with EBC safety reset and boost upped to 1.3 bar (+octane booster) from 1.2bar I reckon it will get some nicer ave numbers.

Wasn't me mate, don't work down south anymore. I run from 0.7 to 1.2 bar, which is 215-265rwkW peak power. Being internal gate also helps with cops I think re defecting. For you, I'd see if I can get the same ext housing as used on the XR6T. I called Garrett once and from memory they'll sell you one. It's 1.06 A/R and has same design as the nice ProS HKS internal gate turbos. A/R too big for 2.5L when combined with the compressor size on GT3040, but tor a 3L motor it would be perfect :burnout:

Other things to consider: Whatsisname - boost 1.4 bar? Nice aggressive tuning due to lower comp & forged pistons Grepin - 1.3 bar, fabricated tubular exh manifold, 85mm throttle body, Greddy plenum, 90mm thick FMIC Steve - 1.4 bar?? HKS 256/264 cams, 0.87 exh A/R, exh wastegate, tubular exh man, lower comp via head gasket (more aggressive tuning?), cam gears, Greddy plenum Interesting numbers relative to mods. SK, all done in fourth gear. Turbo doesn't need spacer due to 0.6 A/R comp housing. FMIC 75mm X 300mm X 480mm, 2.5" pipework I think (i've seen much bigger on Tilbrook cars for eg) Car is faster, but doey under 3000rpm, power band is smaller than before however but car faster overall for sure. Very happy with Microtech personally. Next step for me is Tomie Poncam as per SK suggestions and tubular exh manifold, I hope for 15% power increase in mid range and maybe 10% up top. Should get nicer spread of torque/power. Also check pressure drops associated with pipework and FMIC.

Gleney doing controlled Subaru series in this years Aust Rally Champ instead. They are 2.5L NA RX cars, all controlled and goes to all rounds in Oz....pretty poxy cars compared GTRs!

Sard 550cc/min. I got them for a special price but I generally bank on about $1000 from Greenline: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...ntake=FI#engine or Nengun. If unlucky might also have to pay for import duty, extra $300??

They don't own car anymore, but started off with T67 Turst then went to AX6 Apexi I think. Not 100% sure.

I'm with you Joel. Some other ideas: Maybe the pulsing of the injector starts to get chaotic at say greater than 90% duty cycle, or at even lower duty cycle but when it has high fuel pressures and you get insufficient fuel when under high load for longish periods like when winding up to 180km/h in fourth. Maybe by raising fuel pressure (via Malpassi reg for eg) you also reduce flow to injectors as higher pressure for the same given fuel supply = less flow according to flow dynamics I think. But some people say that with big fuel pump like Bosch 044, the fuel supply presssure and flow is so huge it should be OK. Maybe by using a reg to give you high pressure you also cause differential pressure drop across rail from one side to the other or within the rail and say cyl 1 or 6 gets less fuel than others but as Joel said it won't show up in average A/F ratio out the tail pipe. With big injectors, you get high flow at low pressure which I think is better and it gives the right spray pattern and even fuel supply across rail. BTW RBVS, Joel also might know more about rebuild options as he's doing one now for RB30.

Enrico, I had heaps of rear skitting and poor exit-corner grip. I had too much toe in at the rear. It's now set at 0 and much better. Take it to Bridgstone on Gouger or Blackwood Tyrepower, the only two places in town I recommend and I've been to alot.

Pretty much all of what I said was anti-lag.

Microtech ECUs can do anti-lag and launch control. Since they have 4 different maps to choose from, Tim Possingham, a tuner here in Adelaide(based at RPM Perf Centre) has a setup that when clutch is depressed, a certain map comes on via switching on clutch that is linked to ext inputs on Microtech ECU and with I think 75% throttle at lights. This map has heaps of fuel and very retarded timing allowing heaps of unburned fuel into exhaust and therefore pre-spooling turbo. Then when you dump clutch it goes into normal power tune. Then change gears, by depressing clutch and goes into anti-lag mode, etc etc Works well I believe, used in that 300rwkW CA18 180SX that was in Zoom (was running 250rwkW at the time).

I'm not really qualified for that stuff, I heard Steve at SST in WA is the man whi could tell you. Others like Sydneykid, Clint32 and others are better with engine tech. All I know is that the ring lands are the only real weak link in RB25s and sounds you are unlucky re bearings, having said someone said some the sphincter of the universe fired up the JMS car and cained it when still cold and smashed a bearing..?????

If your motor is knackered and it needs rebuilding anyway, I reckon you'd be better off spending the cash once and go for forgies, will allow you to go spastic with boost/power and not be conservative. You don't want to toss about a second time if and when your pistons blow. I personally dont run at 265rwkW much of the time, mostly 245rwkW at 0.8bar when thrashing and once in a while at 1.2 bar. Been running since November 2003, same for Grepin and he thrashes the shit out of it at 275rwkW all the time. Myself, Grepin and Steve running 260-320rwkW with stock pistons as well as old JMS R33 at 300rwkW. Plenty of WA guys as well I think, but since your opening up bottom of motor it might worth the cost, but I see what you mean re $4000-5000 for forgies when you see us running OK with stockies. Having said that, I personally know 5 SA R33s with blown pistons (and all with stock injectors), but ones with big injectors and running alot more power are still fine. Difficult choice mate, but really depends on how hard you thrash and how often, if often and hard then go forgies, better for the long term potential if you want to keep car.

Not sure these guys have direct experience with my turbo as mine was a first, being so big and being internal gate and the hybrid nature of it. There are a few other "bolt-on" options but not too many: HKS have about 3 worthwhile ones range GT3037ProS (480PS or 270-300rwkW) or GT2835ProS (420PS or 250-280rwkW) or GT2540 (380PS??) Apexi RX6 (I think) Trust 19G series, not sure if internal gate though Try www.gcg.com.au as well. The Garrett and HKS are best due to double ball baring CHRAs.

I had a look on the website and I couldn't see it. Might have to ask Tim specifically for 500HP RB20-RB25 "bolt-on" hybrid with T3 Internal Sierra Cosworth exhaust housing.

You'll definately notice the lag gobiz, about 800-1000rpm difference from stock turbo but once over 3500rpm it's the same response. Best to e-mail Tim and mention my black R33 he got the turbo for here in Adelaide and he'll get you the same. His e-mail is on the website Chris32 put up. A bit of advice though, you will have to be very carefull of 240rwkW+ RB25s with stock injectors as a few of us reckon all the piston ringland busting issues for these motors have been associated with pushing the stock injectors too far, 550cc are the way to go for security. Howeevr, your Link ECU might not work with different resistance injectors, might have to talk with the supplier about it.

His initial failure is trying to keep up with us RB25 boys :devfu:

Good to me, I remeber I did my RB25 when I first bought it and was 148 all round. I'm no expert but 155 vs 160 is only a 3% difference and probably within reasonble measurement error ????

Nice one mate!

gobiz, yes it's a bolt-on hybid Garrett GT3040 CHRA with machined 0.60 A/R compressor housing (rather than the normal 0.7) that allows it to clear the exhaust manifold. It also has 0.63 exhaust A/R for better boost response with smallish internal gate (no bigger than 30mm) but up to 19psi or 1.3 bar it seems to control boost OK with good EBC, anyway I don't want to run any more boost than that. Compressor wheel is big by comparison to say HKS GT3037ProS (good bolt-on option but expensive) or 450-500HP Garrett GT30, so potential is there for big grunt as I said before I have all stock stuff (other than injectors) that is holding back top-end power, currently get 265rwkW at 1.2bar. Could easily wind in more boost for more grunt but I am aiming for good power at low boost, 1.1-1.2 bar. With better exhaust manifold and cams i think I'll get 290+rwkW at 1.2bar. Joel is right, got it from Horsepowerinabox, definetely recommend that path. For other cheap options I'd have a look at the selection on www.nismo.com.au under New Products, prices are pretty good but not as good as Tim from Horsepowerinabox. You could opt for 500HP compressor wheel rather than the 600HP wheel on mine for better boost response below 3500rpm but still easily achieve 240-250rwkW. Let us know how you go, also Tim goes to SE Asia for tuning sometimes, he could go there and do it for ya!!

Cool, yeah driver and low mass certainly help.

Matt, how did Shaun go in the RX7?

Thanks Steve, Matt and the guys at BoostWorx. A well run event. Pity I forgot to raise my EBC safety overide to above 19psi, would have made more than the normal 260+ at 17psi, but didn't realsie the problem until after the runs! Put a bottle of octane boost in specifally for the higher boost runs as well, dickhead! At least I know the boost safety overide works. Quite a few of us having boost problems today.

Try Turbo Tune mate, just ask EnricoPalazzo :wassup: