Risking

I've never had a belt come off. If the thing is designed properly and aligned there should never be a problem. It's not a common problem like people tend to stress about I use a guide plate for the belt to run against.

Sold!! Paid for taken and signed over

Not nessisarily. I fitted up a full set of arms to an r32 GTR today. They were Chinese arms, I threw the rod ends in the bin and replaced them with FK ends. Blasted the paint off them and TIG welded some plate gussets into them, re painted them black and fitted them up. Happy days. They were a Dam sight cheaper then ikea arms and as strong if not stronger. Ultimately yes depending on the application you'd fabricate your own specifically for your use, it's not very common practice though as people don't want to spend the money unless it's a fairly serious circuit car

CAMS have finally have a revision of the ancient Shedule J section of the manual. There is some changes in some areas that I know effect a few people on here. Ryan (BOZZN) Neil and Pete (FATZ) really need to organise their pre log book inspections and register their cages as they will be needing modifications come sept this year to comply. There is also an R35 in the R35 section which I noticed today that wont pass without extra gussets being fitted to the roof members (due to the rear diagonals coming from the center of the hoop not the outter ends) I know of alot of cars being built around the place which wont be finished by the end of this year and have got cages either half done or fully done that wont comply. Those guys should really be making sure the places doing your cages understand the new Shedule J and make changes to make sure you will get registration. The fundamentals are the same, the material specs are the same, a few of the bar members allowable positions and intersection points have been changed (prodominantly windscreen/door jam support bars) Also intrusion bars are having a strong recommendation put on them to be a two bar U design with opposing gussets instead of the 3 bar cut type. compolsary X supports in the roof for two person events (such as rally etc) Also compulsary X diagonals in the hoop or rear legs instead of the old single diagonal required rule. The shedule is more based around the FIA regulations now which have also recently changed. Just a heads up really for anyone looking to get a cage done, make sure that the manufacturer is aware of the new regulations.

Swap the external bridge and bleed nipples around.

Earls are quality and they also offer fragola as a budget option. Using cheap fittings is asking for trouble. Same goes for hose. It will end in tears. Make up a hose and have pirtek pressure test it. I have a pressure tester and adaptors if you are local and want to compare a cheap hose and hose end to a quality one...... If you can't afford to do it properly then seriously you shouldn't be doing it at all. I'm all for saving a dollar but good luck with leaky cheap fittings.

With sealing up the engine using good quality seals is a must. I also machine up alloy half moons for the rocker covers, they don't always get sucked in but I have had it happen. Normally I drill and tap the dip stick tube's hole and put a 1/8th npt fitting in there with a 6mm barb end. Let's me quickly and easily connect a vac gauge to the crank case. Like mike said 10-15 is typical but 15 I personally think can be a tad high leading to little end wear. my engines I try to get them at a max of 12 or so. There is a few ways to do it. An adjustable bleed on the rocker cover, or I have used the same fitting tapped into the rocker cover with a vac line off it connected up to the air filter inlet pipe. I machine up some small restrictors with various size orifices and change them till I get the desired vacuum. A little harder to set up but costs nothing to do. I also know a few people who run open breathers with no crank case vacuum.

You want details pmme a phone number and I'll put you in contact with him It's not a shit box we did the injectors in it the other night. It's not a bad thing but his got a sil80 and an r32 GTR and now doesn't need the r31. There is no link it's a mate who has one and wants to sell it....

The more stages the more oil you can circulate and the more vacuum you will pull in the crank case. On a race car I normally use either a 4 or 5 stage. On a milder street car/weekend car I'd go a 3-4 stage tops. Alot of people use a 4 stage and scavenge 2 from the sump and one from the head. It's not wrong but it's not ideal. The idea is create vacuum In the crank case and putting a scavenger in the head is not exactly helping to draw the oil to the sump pan where the remaining majority scavengers are trying to work. Vacuum is always equal in all directions if the container ( engine) is sealed so scavenging from the head won't effect the vacuum levels but it is best if you can get all the oil flowing in one direction with gravity to the bottom. With a 4 stage I'd normally run three pick ups in a sump channel. One from one center and one rear. With a five stage like my old race car had I'd use two channels one in front of the subframe one behind both with two scavengers feeding from them. There is hundreds of sump design ideas out there nothing is really right or wrong, people scavenge in all different ways from all different positions. I'd be interested to hear from others as to what they do with their scavengers and positioning. On my road car I have a 3 stage to use. Two scavengers one at the rear ( scavenger on acceleration) and one 1/3 the way down the pan towards the front ( enough for heavy braking but far enough back to scavenge on acceleration too) usually with a 3 stage you will end up with excess oil in the pan, depending on the sump and channel design. I'm doing a pan for an s15 at the moment for a 4 stage Peterson pump. The pump will be build into the pan and have internal scavengers when it takes some shape I'll put up some photos.

A basic setup for an RB Will have an external belt driven pump, modified sump and a tank. The pump is crank driven usually at 50% of crank speed. It creates a vacuum inside the engine and draws the oil from the engine and feeds it to the tank. These are refered to as scavenger stages. The pump draws back from the tank and pressurized the oil before feeding it back into the engine through one of several ways. That's a pressure stage. Pumps are described as being an "X stage pump" 4 stage= 3 scavengers 1 pressure, 3 stage = 2 scavenger 1 pressure and so forth. There are a few types of pump which only becomes relevant when you want to buy one really. Tanks and sumps are a science all to themselves which I'm sure will end up as a topic in here eventually. Costs can be up to and over 15k for a well thought out system using top shelf fittings and good quality gear. Costs can be cut using rebuilt 2nd hand gear which works fine an is 1/4 the price of new. Advantages and disadvantages there are sooo many. A quick google search will teach you everything you need to know there.

^^^^ Exactly right

This may or may not work but I thought let's get a thread together for all those dry sump questions people have but either never ask or the threads get lost on the interweb. I get pm's constantly with little questions about things that info is not easily available for. If everything can go in here the info will be easy to find for future dry sumpers. It would be good if the handfull of guys who actually do set up dry sumps can spend some time to answer questions accurately. Dont want arguments but obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat so opinions are going to be had. If it doesn't work the thread will go to the bottom and it's no great lose, but I know a few years back when I did my first RB dry sump there was no info around about sumps, breathers or anything else so if this can help so be it.

Element heaters in the base of a tapered tank are far better than blanket heaters around the outside. Think about what happens to hot and cold oil. Cold thick oil always goes to the bottom to be heated evenly till the viscosity is even. A blanket heats the tank and the heat has to radiate to the center through the oil. it does but they are less efficient in heating the oil evenly. I have tested both ways in a tank with no lid. There was some drastic temp differences when using a blunt and a 300mm round tank. Primers are a good idea particularly when used as an emergency back up as well as a primer. When you wire them to a hob switch and the thing throws a belt the primer can help alot. It won't save an engine doing a million rpm at full noise but you do have a chance with them. Most sprint car guys I know don't use them. They use a shut off from a hob switch when pressure drops below 20psi. ( they can't idle so pressure is never lower than 44psi usually) If they sit around or have a fresh engine a drill on the pump is used to prime the system. I used to drop the belt and use a 3/8 air ratchet with a special adaptor to turn the pulley ( don't drive it by the bolt head in the end of the shaft when the pump loads up with oil pressure the bolt will snap) Even without valves a dry sump pump won't drain back to the tank when it sits around. They drain back into the sump on the scavenger lines but otherwise the system will remain majoritily primed. The only time I've re primed a system was when some idiot turned the pump backwards with a drill and pumped all the oil back to the tank. Or if the car has been sitting for more than a couple of months just to be safe. Neil I'm now stocking BDG and morosso pumps too when your ready to get one.

Late notice but my missus has ended up with a spare ticket to steve-o's live show in Brisbane tomorrow night. If anyone is interested can contact me today and organize to meet in Brisbane or at the show tomorrow night.

Mate of mine is selling an r31 rb30 turbo manual for 2k. Think it's still got decent rego too

Define cheapish?? I don't have a link as it's not on the net forsale If your keen send me a pm and can get you photos etc of it

Switched mobile plans and have already got I phones so the phones are not needed. Both phones are brand new and still in shrink wrap. They are locked to vodafone but can be unlocked without drama. Also have another nokia N8 which I bought and used for about 2 weeks and is also not needed. Its grey in colour. Im told the N8 retails for $859 and the C7 for $358 The new N8 im asking $450 The new C7 im asking $250 The 2nd hand N8 im asking $300 Located in sydney can be posted or picked up anytime from the southwest of sydney.

How about a drift ready 180sx?? Sr20det, full bolt in rollcage, coilovers, black needs some tidying up been sitting around for years. Located in Sydney though.

No prob. Had some interest today but no deposit as yet

We used to use sunoco in the r32 GTR It worked well when the tune was right but we did melt a few pistons in hot temperatures. Once the tune was right it ran happily. We did run up an rb26 on an engine dyno running on a toluene blend. I don't know the ratio but it did not make much more power than 98.

Sorry mate we have far too many cars so this has to be sold to get some parking space back

It's back up for sale. If you want it get in fast before I crack the shits with it.

I'd go with a late model evo any day as sad as it is. The only reason I haven't is every second person has one ,its next to impossible to stand out on a grid full or them and no matter what you do there will still be a faster evo that yours anyways! It makes sence to buy a competitive car. Your lucky in nz with your fia cage regs. If a car comes here from the USA or nz 90% of the time the cage has to be extensively modified to meet our stupid requirements ( something that is changing in 2012) which seems to prevent alot of existing racers being imported. I have an ex NZ galant coming next week to have the cage reworked, original NZ owner who moved here his pissed he can't race it without spending a few grand changing the car around to get a log book.

It's not hard to do at all. I make the shafts with uni joints instead of constant velocities and put a good splined slip joint at one end to allow for length changes. Never had a binding issue with lowered engines. It also helps if you run a higher offset rim and move the hub outward utilizing longer front drive shafts. I think I know what mike has in mind hence the above suggestion he will understand. The sump bulge gets cut off and critical parts of the diff casing need to be webbed into the pan. Something I've also been stuffing with is a brace incorporated into the outter diff/sump flange which braces the diff casting to the block. It has seemed to help with the whole snapping diffs of with launching issue I used to have.

Na it still is well behaved. It's sitting in the corner and doesn't give me any greif at all....... I have done a few little maintainace bits to it