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insu

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Everything posted by insu

  1. Does your computer look like this? If it does, from what I can gather, Decide offer an exchange program where you give them your computer and you get one of theirs tuned for your car? I'm probably off here, anyone feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. -Tom
  2. http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools Have you tried that? -Tom
  3. Wow that's crazy good. If you get them up and running all nice and smooth I can see you selling a Shipload of these. I'd definitaly be interested at around that price! Well done. -Tom You know what would be really awesome? (I'm sure you've already thought of this, and or its not possible or not viable or you have already done it) if you could program in alerts, ie: Say your injector cycle hit 90% or over, it would let you know, or even better let you know and later on you could recall the stats of the car at the time of the duty cycle being at say 94%. Same goes for watercoolant temp etc.
  4. Hey RANDY, this is off topic but I like your signature idea where you put your wtb items for your liner. Do you mind if i steal your idea? Thanks. -Tom
  5. Here's a copy of the dyno graph. And costwise, I spent: $320 - Clutch kit $470 - Flywheel $270 - Install So $1060.00 all up installed. I'm pretty happy with the value for money of the modification, and if you have to change the clutch anyway well.... Oh and btw as someone asked me earlier, yes that is stock boost. The guys at Mercury said it was a good result so I was happy.
  6. Hey all, not sure if this should be in this section or handling or whatever, but here we go. Just thought I'd give my impressions of fitting a lightweight flywheel to my car as when I was investigating the modification there seemed to be alot of conflicting information about the results of said modification. Car's specs: 1993 GTSTML (twin bags, active diff etc) Manual Catback exhaust GFB Stealth FX Bov (for rice factor, although I always have it turned to 100% return) Apexi powerintake pod And that's it, I had the car Dyno'd at Mercury about a month ago, and the car put down 165.9rwkw. The Clutch: Exedy H/D Organic kit incl: * Exedy H/D Organic clutch plate * RPM Brass Button Pressure plate * New Bearings This kit can handle 240rwkw Bought off C&B off of this forum. The Flywheel: An Xclutch Alluminium flywheel with steel? face plate (see pic). Weight: 4.8kg Installation: ABS at Springwood. Thanks to Dave (3lit3 32) for getting me a good price on install. Impression: Now at first it was hard for me to get over the new clutch to really feel what the flywheel was like because my old clutch was so badly slipping and the balance point was so high on the pedal that the new one was incredible (compared). Strangley even being a higher rated pressure plate the clutch pedal is now (at least) twice as light as old?? The first thing I noticed about the flywheel is that you do need to be a little more conscious about holding your revs on take off. Its not that you really need more revs to move off the line when you are releasing the clutch, its just that when the clutch starts to engage the revs rop alot faster so you need to be quicker accelerating in order to keep the revs optimal. This is sorta amplified when you have the aircon on, but it is in no way unliveable or annoying, you just have to adjust your driving style is all, and once you get it, its really quite smooth. Now its time for an episode of Myth Busters: Myth: Lightened flywheels make your car vibrate horribly. BUSTED I haven't noticed any difference to the cars handling/vibration/feel etc through idling, accelerating lightly and heavily, cruising at speeds of: 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100. Now i'm not saying that all cars will be the same as mine, but what i'm saying is that if you buy a good quality flywheel that has been correctly crankshaft balanced (and if need be mated to the pressure plate and balanced) there is no reason why your cars driveline should vibrate. As for general driving feel, apart from getting use to the new clutch feel and point, the flywheel is very easy to live with. Taking off from the lights is easier and accelerating through the gears when both hitting boost and even changing before 3000~3500 rpm is easier. The car seems to feel like it has more torque available off boost, and winds around the rev range much easier (and hence hitting boost faster). Upshifts require a bit faster action in order to keep the car smooth, but I believe this comes down to the revs dropping faster when the clutch is in, and hence has to climb higher once the gear has changed and the clutch is being let out. Again this isn't really anything bad, just something you have to change in your driving style. Downshifts on the other hand are an absolute breeze. You don't have to blip the throttle if you don't want to on down changes, the car just feels and sounds much more willing to meet the revs when changing. Its hard to explain, but the easiest way I can is to say that you want to change back up again, just so you can feel and hear the car change down again . One of my reservations about getting the lightened flywheel is that I thought it would adversly affect highway driving as without the extra reciprocating mass, the car would have to work harder in order to cruise along the highway. Thusfar this fear seems to be unfounded and if anything the car seems to 'feel' and sound happier and more 'revvy' and from what I can tell at vacuum reading before and after hasn't really changed, ergo my throttle position at 100 hasn't had to increase in order to maintain the same speed (read: more fuel use). As for stop-start driving and general fuel economy, i'm sorry to say that I can't give you any figures as I haven't had it in for long enough. But give me a couple of weeks and i'll update this post with my findings. As for the flywheel improving the acceleration of the car, well by the seat of the pants o' meter I'd have to say it has. More downlow I'd say than uptop, but the car also 'feels' faster I guess because of the fact it revs through the range faster. I must say though, due to the fact that I had a slipping clutch before the install, I cannot without resonable certainty how much of the increased 'acceleration' can be contributed to the flywheel or clutch. After my clutch has had a chance to bed in, i'll be taking it down to test n tune to see how it goes. Probably 25th (wednesday night) at willowbank if anyone wants to come down. I think there is a test and tune on then? Correct me if i'm wrong. I'll post up results of the times on here after that as well. Well if you made it this far, you probably have eye fatigue and are wondering why the heck you're still reading. Oh and if anyone completely disagrees with my findings, that's great and feel free to post your criticisms, just don't flame me because I have specifically stated this is what worked with my car and those mod's etc. Cheers -Tom Oh and apologies for any spelling and gramatical error's of which i'm sure there are many. *Update* I have noticed one ill effect since fitting the lightened flywheel. On cold weather (read morning) starts when the car starts up and idles high while its warming up, the car seems to shudder for a while. Its a shudder through the whole car and you can see it in the mirrors. Its not really bad or anything and lasts about 15-20 seconds or so then goes away. Curiously if you then rev the car in neutral to the same point the car was revving at when cold it doesn't shudder? This is just a guess, but I guess that much like the engine the flywheel takes a couple of seconds to get up to operating temperature and working all sweet etc. Apart from this I haven't yet noticed any other ill effects of the flywheel.
  7. I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but doesn't the 350z come standard with a carbon fibre driveshaft? The pro's being the lighter weight, and if it snaps in any place it shatters rather than spearing as metal would (read:safer). It'd be nice if these could some how be modified to fit, although being a genuine nissan item, it would probably work out to be more expensive than the aftermarket.
  8. I have R34 GTT rims on my S1 R33 GTST and they seem to fit just fine. I did notice that the front brake caliper looks like it is extremely close (almost touching) but there seems to be a grove in the rim (albiet a small one) that allows the rim to pass. That said, the car drives just fine! If you are worried, I can take a picture so you can check it out, just let me know. -Tom
  9. I have Potenza S-03's on my car (R34 17" GTT rims) R33 gtst, with basic intake/exhaust mods, and still original suspension with around 90k on the clock. They're quite expensive I suppose, to a fair few other tyres out there, but they grip pretty darn well in the dry, probably let more down in the rain, although its not hard to tell why when you look at the tread pattern. I'm not sure if i'll buy them again, they're wearing quite well, and they have next to no road noise compared to other tyres I've had on (Goodyear eagle F1's)
  10. Fully synthetic all the way. motul 8100 Excess, 5w 40? from memory. Get a hold of a 20% repco voucher and go buy like 5 bottles and 5 filters, a funnel, shifter, oil wrench and oil pan. You'll never look back. There's nothing like bonding with your car when you're putting nice new fresh oil (read: Cars blood) in it.
  11. Oh the irony.
  12. Not sure if you've seen this one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=100225
  13. This has probably been said before, or is not do-able. But what if you were to 'move' to Queensland. Then once in Queensland, you got a Queensland drivers licence. Then you bought your car, rego'd it at your Queensland address. Then you decided to 'move' back. It was my understanding that if you already owned the car (registered) or if you came from a state where you have owned the car, they couldn't stop you from having it/driving it? Or am I completely wrong?
  14. Ah yes, I see this helps. Stupid me has been searching only posts for the last 30 days everytime. I do feel really stupid now.
  15. Yeah, I think I'm just retarded when using the search function. I just never seem to be able to do it right.
  16. Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong section, as I wasn't sure if it should go in General, Handling etc. Secondl apologies if this has been posted before, I did run several searches looking for this information but couldnt find everything I wanted. No doubt having said that, someone's going to post about three or four search strings proving me wrong, so apologies in advance. Basically i'm after two bits of information. 1) Does anyone know of any places or sites that have lightweight flywheels of good quality. If physical stores, in the queensland region. I know of Nengun and Modyourcar. Nengun have an ORC for around $550. Is this a good price? 2) My second question is for those who have taken the lightened flywheel route, for an everyday driver, what is a good weight to go for on the car? I see the majority around the 4.8-5Kg range. I know that the lightened flywheel affects that ability of the car to provide torque, (in a sense) thus when the car has to carry more load it must work harder than normal. I was just wondering of any other side effects that are evident with a lightened flywheel. IE: Fuel usage, idle quality, highway cruising quality etc. 3) This is my last question I promise. What is a good price for a lightened flywheel, and is it better to have a stock one ground down/balanced and machined. Or buy a chrome-molly lightened one etc? Thanks for your patience and thanks in advance to any input or advice. -Tom
  17. Not to say that you shouldn't go for a rex or skyline etc, but for around the $15-17k mark, i'd be looking at a VS senator before a VR. Now I havent been in a VR senator (i have been in a VR SS) but I have been in a VS Senator, and the build quality difference from the vr-vs series is phenomenal. FIY: Did a quick search and carsales has a few VS senators going for between 14-17k with around 140 XXX k's on the clock. Here are a few: 1) 95, White, 5spd, 151xxx, $14,900 2) 95, panther mica, 140xxx, Auto , $15,500 3) 95, Cherry black, 189xxx, Auto, $15,900 The holden performance market (ie HSV) seems to have died in the arse since the LS1 and now LS2's have come out. Not to mention very competitive imports coming in, in both price and performance, build etc. Having said all that, out of your choices I'd probably go for a nice S2 R33 GTS-T. Fantastic car with a wealth of knowledge, parts, support etc. Just my 2c
  18. Hey ya'll. As stated in the title, i'm chasing the piece of plastic that goes infront of the tirewell that both holds the bottom part of the front spoiler and protects under the front drivers side of the car. I've tried a fair few wreckers of japanese cars, and it seems that this is a fairly common thing to be missing on R33's. I'm located in Brisbane. Please PM if you have one or know of one, with a price and we'll discuss. Regards, Thomas.
  19. [sorry about the quality.
  20. BTW, i can post up my Dyno sheet for anyone who would like to compare my results to the above results. I don't know how much use it would be, quantifying different results on different cars, but it may be of interest to someone.
  21. Those are interesting results that you have there. My car made 164.9rwkw on Mercury's Dyno with the following mods only: *3" Dump from turbo, into stock pipe 2 inches??? This is what I was told by the guys from the shop? *Standard Cat *3" Mandrel the rest of the way and a 4" Canon. And on the intake side, a Apexi Power intake pod (not enclosed, naughty me) And the guys said my car would benifit greatly from the type of dump you are talking about and a highflow cat, now it looks like that is what I'll be doing next. Importantly however, comparing my dyno sheet to yours, it seems yours has a bit more 'meat' throughout the whole range before reaching the peak power.
  22. I have a similar problem. When I press down on my cluth pedal it squeaks (although i've always assumed that the actual pedal itself has just needed a grease up) but recently ie last couple of months the peddle feels like it is notchy. It still seems to have all the same grip, ie The car doesn't feel like its slipping or not getting the power to the ground, its just notchy. Like Red Emblem said, it is usually about halfway down or up and you can feel a notch, although for me its usually on the upstroke of the releasing the clutch. I would also be interested to know anyone's views on this or if they have fixed it etc. -Tom
  23. Take all unessasary weight out of your car. Maybe lower the pressure on your rear tires a bit for better grip. Install a N1 RB26DETT race motor into your car. The usual.
  24. I suppose however, that on a completely stock skyline, the stock intercooler would have an efficency close enough to a FMIC for the purpose of producing the power made at 'stock'. Furthermore any advantages made by lowering the charge density of the air from a FMIC would probably be outweighed by the difference in the 'lag' time taken for the turbocharger to increase the pressure in a larger area. So in that respect Paul, I would agree with you. I wouldn't see how just adding a FMIC would increase power (unless you had other mods like exhaust, upped boost pressure etc).
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