Psymon

Pinion Seal 38189-N3112 Pinion Bearing 38120-13210 Oil Seal Side 38342-P9010 x2 Bearing Side 38440-N3110 x2 Gasket 38320-40F02 It looks like the bearings would have to be ordered from Japan. Stock of seals and gasket in Australia.

FAST doesn't include engine number info.

38342-03V01

A quick look suggests those part number suit 05/98 - 08/00 build R34 GTT with LSD option.

Not necessarily. I have projectors in mine and they use a H3C bulb.

It seemed to be only early ZD30 patrols with the grenade engines. The current ones haven't been having that problem. The patrol dash bubble problem is being fixed under warranty on a customer complaint basis only i believe.

I have a pair of 18x8.5 +28 that i don't need any more. Shoot me a PM if interested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S7_UAs7dAE

11720-24U01 Fan + Alt 11950-24U05 Power Steering 11720-77A00 A/C FAST will give you numbers starting with AY140- for the belts but they're a Japanese part number that can't be ordered by Nissan Aus. The numbers i've put up are the local numbers.

Options list is all Japanese unfortunately.

I don't think you'll have much luck here. Can't check engine numbers with FAST and the Nissan system I have access to can only check engine numbers from Aus delivered vehicles.

Latest version of FAST.

Yeah the cold start in my 32 gtst was so severe that sometimes when it reached the operating temperature it felt as if I was driving with the handbrake on and all of a sudden it was taken off.

My 32 used to do this when it was fairly stock. I just used to take it easy until it was warm and it was fine. It went away when I had it tuned to suit new turbo and injectors etc.

I'm chasing an R33 RB25DET crankshaft in very good condition. R32/R33 RB25DE crank shares the same part number so will also suit. Let me know if you can help out. Thanks

Looks like around $2200 each. That's only a bare head though, no cams, valves, springs etc.

You'll need to track down the Nissan chassis number to run it through FAST. It should be physically stamped into the chassis somewhere. Newer Nissans have it on the right hand chassis rail near the RHF wheel. Not sure about older ones though. I'm not sure on the legalities of not having a manufacturers build plate attached to the car, but it might be worth looking into to save trouble down the line. See attached. Doesn't appear to be a V-Spec.

Why tuesday? I'll try anyway!

I understand where you're coming from. Since the car is still running fine with the current engine and i have the time up my sleeve, i'm leaning towards tracking down a crank in good condition. I do intend on leaning on this motor a bit so i'd like to do it right first time around.

Would a new balancer really be neccessary after a repair? I just went out and had a look and the woodruff key is still a nice fit in the balancer. No movement at whatsoever once it's in there.

I don't suppose you'd have a contact phone number handy Richard? I'm out in the sticks so it would involve freighting it in etc.

Large bin or small truck? So it's not really viable to fix this? Inconvenient!

I recently bought an RB25 to put into my R32. I was pulling it down last night to have a look at the condition and give it some new gaskets and timining belt etc. When i pulled the harmonic balancer off i noticed that one side of the keyway seems to have been flogged out. (see pic!) What's the easiest way out from here? Is it repairable? If so is it safe/reliable to do so? Or am i better off tracking down a good condition crank and just replacing it? Thanks guys!

Don't forget Nissan and Mitsubishi.