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Dyno sheet.

No swaps.

Specs: - Garrett 3037 ball bearing turbo - Greddy plenum - Greddy triple core drag S15 radiator kit. - Craig Davies 16inch thermo fan - HKS Type R Drag Intercooler - 38mm Turbosmart wastegate - Customised Race Pace stainless piping throughout turbo/intercooler setup - K&N Air filter - HKS Hi Power 3inch Cat back exhaust - NISMO 750CC INJECTORS - Bosch 044 external fuel pump - XTR custom surge tank - Sard fuel reg - CUSCO 1.5 way LSD - - Project mU slotted & drilled discs - BREMBO R33 V-SPEC calipers. - CUSCO BRAKE CYLINDER BRACE - CUSCO FRONT STRUT BRACE - CUSCO REAR STRUT BRACE - JIC MAGIC FULLY ADJ COIL OVERS - NISMO REAR ARM ASSEMBLY - upper & lower links - C's short shift kit - Micro tech LTX8 - Bosch individual coil packs - 18INCH VOLK RACING CHALLENGES in rare diamond black - D-SPEED WIDE BODY FLARED/GILLED FRONT GUARDS - CWEST Spec 2 FULL BODY KIT - NISMO CLEAR INDICATORS - NISMO PETROL CAP - NISMO RADIATOR CAP Located in North Sydney 11 Months Rego in New South Wales No accidents Slight damage around front drivers side 1/4 where wheel hits the lip No offers No trades No time wasters Pics Will take more if asked.

SteveL, I would have to agree with you, as for checking the oil pressure, 3 guages have been used, all calibrated and all read as explained.92 psi at idle i believe is excessive, this is also at normal operating temperature ! Also, oil pressure doesnt change through out the rpm range as indicated by an increase in oil pump speed.I dont think that the relief vavle can hold such pressure when rpm increases, simple maths says, increase flow rate(pumps rpm) must be proportional to pressure head.Given the standard 10 psi per 1000 rpm, @ 6000 i would have approx 150 psi !, this is not the case, checked , re checked and checked again, oil pressure remains at an indicated 92 psi. Its got me stumped

SoRrY

JUST A cHASSIS DYNO AT WORK. sTILL HAVENT FOUND ANYTHING OBVIOUS THAT WOULD BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, THE BLOCK HAS A TOMEI RESTRICTOR (1.5MM) BUT THESE HAVE BEEN IN OTHER ENGINES WITH NO DRAMAS SO IM RULING THAT OUT ALSO

THATS WHAT IM THINKING, REPLACE THE PUMPS AND TRY AGAIN, BUT IF THAT DOESNT FIX IT, MAN THESE ENGINES TAKE A BIT OF EFFORT TO R&R

I have checked the spring rate, it is a linear spring and the same spring rate as a standard gtr 32 pump, the satndard pump i was comparing had 1 shim(0.5mm) the pump on the car which i am having problems with has 2 (1.0mm) and the brand new, unused N! pump had none ! Hence i dont think that this is the problem

oil filter has been changed several times to eliminate it causing the problem. However, releif valve should be open if there is a restriction in that area.I seem to think that it maybe jammed closed and not operating at all ! I have taken it apart to check spring etc, found 2 shims under the retaining bolt, and also took aparta brand new N1 pump and found no shims ! they are only 1mm total thickness, harldy enough to change base oil pressure at idle by 65psi !

8100 oil normal operating temperature oil pressure has been checked with 3 different guages, 2 mechanical and 1 electrical, all say 92 psi at idle, engine is in good condition otherwise

Just a bit of info which someone maybe able to shed some light on, 92 psi @ idle, is this roght for this pump any specs etc would be much appreciated cheers. I have checked the pump and it is an N1 item, way to mjuch oil pressure though, maybe a releif valve problem?

were u after a set of foriges? i can get cp's with rings for 1300 in the .040' oversize (87mm)

I need some front strut tops for an N14 SSS as soon as possible. I'm in Sydney and will pick up and pay cash now if anyone has any or knows of some. Cheers

An extra $350 isn't 'around that money.'

Its is also know as a IACV, Idle Air Control Valve.Controls idle speed during warm up of engine and when aux systems such as air con and thermo fan are operating

Still looking...

^ Me either...

I am still looking. People that have PM'ed me haven't replied so I guess they aren't that interested.

I would prefer to buy locally so I can inspect the head.

I am after a complete top end from a R33 GTR. I would like it to be in Sydney so I can have a look at it, I may consider interstate if the seller can send me a few photos. I have seen them advertised for $1500 so thats what I am looking at paying. If you have one than let me know. It must be in good condition.

I have one set of Argo I beam conrods for sale to suit an RB30. They are brand new and still in the box. I am selling them to buy a set of Carrillos. They have a 21mm wrist pin diameter so they will suit CP Pistons, Wisecos, stock pistons ect ect. Located in North Sydney, will send interstate at buyers expense. I will COD, pickup or direct deposit. Rods are 641g each and they include ARP2000 rod bolts. I would like $1400 for them + $20 delivery.

I've narrowed it down to 2... HKS GT3037 or HKS GT3240. Just need to figure out an a/r for the 3037 so it would be a but more responsive than the 3240.

Sold

http://www.sdsefi.com/injectors.htm check this out, bit of info i didnt know !

physically there is no diffeence, its just the resistance value at which the injector runs at, I believe(please correct me if im wrong) that power fc's etc can be ordered to drive either. RB20DET and RB26 DETT are low impedence and RB25DET are high impedence. you my have seen/ heard about the resistor block on the 20 and 26 engines, this converts the injector input signal to low impedence, 25's dont use these. Performace wise i dont think there is any difference. Again correct me if im wron gbut that my understanding of the subject