sl33py

Oh! I might try that next time... moving is good!

Trojan: About to get my new turbo installed by them

Thanks for that Paul, heard if before but needed a reminder Impressive Baconer! I've travelled that road a LOT. Some of that highway isn't exactly flat either! hills and dips and banked corners, all kinds of fun! I doubt anyone else could resist hahaha. But then again, I get my best mileage when going to the coast, which is like a rollercoaster the whole way.

While not based on turbo engines, you could do what this idiot does... but don't blame us when someone rear ends you, or pulls you over and beats you up! I want to get my a55 kicked

1) Donnan! cheeky Still cutting into that right hand lane on Parkes way! (Wasn't in my line, in the GF's Swift) 2) I got a chuckle today: Got spotted via 6th sense over the phone: talking to someone from a bank: them: 'you got a car?' me: 'yep, but not the sort banks car about, import...' ... other convo.... then later on: them: 'wouldn't happen to be a skyline would it?' SPOTTED via ESP! hahahah

Complete and utter waste of time. Coilpacks for 500ish from any dealer on here.

God I hate ppl lol

Man, those C*ntz dolls (as gf and I call em) are just wrooooong. No wonder 7yo's are getting around in eye shadow and heels now

Same thing I say when my gf asks what she should get her olds: kick in the teeth

Easy way to check it's the coils: Pull the plastic cover off that hides the coilpacks/sparkplugs. Wait for a hot/warm night. Go for a very spirited drive where it is safe/quiet. I found that it was easiest for me to recreate the missing was to do 7 or 8 spirited 0-100's. Don't even need to smash the clutch up doing it, it's more the point that you're putting a LOT of load on the engine to heat it up, which is when the coils will miss. Then pull over, pop the hood, stick your head in over the engine so you can see in where the coil packs are (careful). You should be able to see little flashes of light where the coils are missing, because they actually miss while just idling too (maybe not if they are only just starting to go, but mine all but 4 of mine were buggered so it was easy to see). The reason you're doing this at night is so it's easy to see the flashes when the spark arcs to the block/wherever. If you see the flashes, you know you're up for 500 bucks and most likely problem solved. And if I can change my coilpacks, anyone can

Yep, HATE that. I've had a few near hits: Was also nearly rear ended twice in one day while in my GF's car, once by someone simply tailgating and not paying attention at a critical moment, and another was waiting in the slip lane to turn off Coulter Drive left onto Benjamin Way, this guy came thundering up behind me like his ass was on fire and drove straight past me on my left cos there was nowhere else to go. That's just from the past 2 weeks and what comes to mind ATM.

Great to have some real world info URAS! Indeed, this thread shows that the intercooler shouldn't be sitting that low. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...amp;hl=blitz+lm The part that mostly put me off was that very very sharp angle at the end of the tank. URAS, you said it's outlet temps are colder, but how does the flow compare to "straight-through" designs, and how does that affect/offset the benefit of the colder temps? (if at all). If the Blitz doesn't stick out like the dogs balls I thought it did, AND gives lower temps, AND (presumably) doesn't increase lag much because it follows a very close-to-stock route, then I can only see it being a win-win... (ignoring the extra money). If the temps are far better, that's definitely worth a few hundred extra to get a better/safer resulting tune.

Thanks I suspect if the mods think a thread is worthy, they sticky it themselves? I'll be putting my money where my mouth is shortly and getting number 6 (with a new turbo too though, so won't be able to make any worthwhile comparison ). Edit: gonna get a Blitz one now haha

Merry Christmas to meeee, GT-RS turbo should be here any day now PFC+EBC, injectors, pump, intercooler, radiator go in too. Can't wait

Welcome Flamin

I agree with talking to SK. I got springs/shocks and whiteline sways from him and they made the car handle insanely better. I had other issues which required swapping out all the bushes too though. I don't know the brand, but they are nolethane. The the ride is noticeably rougher than before but car handles even tighter, which is good. SK's stuff is good because it's all setup perfectly for the make and model of car, no bugg3ring about needed.

Haha haven't looked at this thread in a while... my stock turbo actually died the other day (randomly, under light load doing 70kph on the way home from work) so now I'm forced to make the choice! I just ordered a GTRS kit. I hate lag, the car is too laggy in stock form IMO, and my mechanic said the 2835 will feel laggier whereas the GTRS will be similar or better depending on other things. I WAS going to get the 2835 after this thread and other investigation but my mechanic/tuner said less 2835 kits have been sold recently and apparently they are out of favour. He knew I was buying the turbo elsewhere, so it's not like he was just trying to flog off stock either. Anyway money's tight atm, so I only needed a very light push in the direction of the cheaper GTRS. I think I'll be happy with 250-260rwkw, which my mechanic says will be achievable and safe (he's got 240rwkw from a 2530 previously). Will be interesting to see how it turns out after all my research! Basically what most ppl were saying was "you'll be happy with both" Can't wait to get it put in early next year

Kick - Was hoping this would generate some discussion!

Also, the stock BOV can be modded as needed. My mechanic does it for ~$100.

Just make sure whoever you go with, if they say they allow "your choice of repairer" that it means exactly that. Many insurers say it, but when it comes crunch time, they say you have to get one quote from whoever you choose (your "choice") and then one from their list of recommended repairers. No prizes for guessing who will win the repair quote 99% of the time. That's NO choice if you ask me. That's how Just Cars works. Apparently Shannons have real choice of repairer but you must have your car garaged to go with them.

Cool thanks, will get them checked out. I just had the subframe bushes replaced so shouldn't be them. Hope it's something cheap

I'll be going for exactly this kind of setup in about a months time. SydneyKid and a few others recommend it. RE in the way of the sparkplugs/coils - the only piping I've seen that isn't is a forward facing plenum, any other aftermarket IC piping is also in the way and has to be taken off for work. I'll be trying Hypertune's kit, apparently it's 5 piece.

Noone?

I've got a R33 GTST stock power upgraded clutch and Xtreme light flywheel. Ever since I upgraded the clutch and lightflywheel, sometimes when I change up gears I get what feels a heavy weight shifting around. ie when I shift up, there is that slight moment when the car feels like it's floating forward a bit before you get back on the gas and as soon as I do, I hear something in the drivetrain go clunk/clack and a very certain weight shift backwards, giving a thud I really dislike. I realise a light flywheel and heavy clutch (mechanic says its good for 300rwkw) will make the car a bit harder to drive, but this clunk happens at really random times and various amounts. I've experimented and can't reliably make it happen. I want to eradicate this from the car. Can I get some suggestions on what to check out? Gearbox or transmission mounts? I think the clutch is installed correctly, I just reckon because it grabs much harder and in combination with the flywheel, it's showing up some weaker part of the drivetrain or mounts or something. One friend said it might be the centre drive bearing (not sure what that is). I am thinking of going back to the stock flywheel anyway, but I want to get rid of this sh1tty movement/slack before making that decision rather than just covering it up again. When it happens, it basically feels like there's a heavy sub in the back sitting on a slipper surface and free to move backwards and forwards about 5cm - you can imagine how annoying that is on gear changes with any momentum built up Oh and since I know it'll be suggested - I really don't think it's just my driving cos about 60-70% of the time it's all smooth and easy, and then on a gear change exactly like all the others I do, it'll go ..... *CLUNK!* and I feel the thud from the rear. And I can't for the life of me figure out how those gear changes are different from all the other fine ones I do.

Thanks Paul!